British WW2 10 cwt GS Trailer

[MWMike]

Cleats......

 

Managed to find a foundry who are quoting a lot less than the one Tony has used, to either cast in iron or brass/bronze, so I need to borrow or buy a cleat from someone to have a batch made. (I've tried the same foundry that Tony used but in vain and as Tony said, they are very pricey ....)

 

So far at least one person expressed a desire for a set as well as myself (Jeepjes on the other thread for trailers)

 

I'm hoping to get the iron ones for around £5 each and brass/bronze for £7 (depends which set we want and how many we order, and I'm not sure that these come de-burred and drilled at that price),

 

As there are 16 per trailer, you can see the costs mount up, but at least the trailers would look original......by the time you've spent the money on the timber and everything else, why skimp?

 

Contact me by 15th December if you need any and I will start the final negotiations with the foundry, who want to see an example before they give me the final price.

 

Mike

[Wolfy]

:cheesy:Looks like a 10cwt ammo/mortar trailer at 21 seconds, interesting they have ammo boxes on top of the mudguards -

 

http://www.britishpathe.com/video/the-push-on-the-rhine/query/british+troops

[Tony Lawrence]

It is a mortar trailer behind a Lloyd carrier. These were often used to carry 4.2" mortars with the ammunition trailer being towed behind. The small arms ammunition boxes could easily be stored on the flat mudguards of the trailer and lashed down.

[Tony Lawrence]

At long last the restoration is finished - one of my cleat castings took five weeks in the post to reach me!! the position of the WD number is the same as shown in the manual. Now to look into the logistics of getting the Surrey trailer trash trailers to War and Peace Revival next year - we have about ten between us and only three towing vehicles. OOps!!

[snort]

Really nice:-)

[cordenj]

Very good Anthony.

And as you say, no "Mickey Mouse" cam as no evidence of a Mortar trailer with any on.

 

Getting all our trailers to W&P will be a challenge.....we're going to have to select what to take.

Think Trailer Trash 2014 will be the only full gathering

[ploughman]

Is there a reason why the headboard drops down?

Seems odd that it is not the tailboard that drops or do both drop?

[Richard Farrant]

Tony,

You will have to check up on who in your area has a tow hook but nothing to tow, then pull rank and detail them their duties

 

cheers Richard

[Tony Lawrence]

Is there a reason why the headboard drops down?

Seems odd that it is not the tailboard that drops or do both drop?

I was told that if towed behind a 15cwt truck then the tailboards of the truck and the trailer were of the same or very similar heights to enable easy transfer of items. Certainly the trailer is higher than a standard jeep trailer but whether that is the correct answer I leave to the experts such as Richard.

[MWMike]

Lovely job! Hope mine turns out like this! Lovely to see! Can't wait to hitch mine behind the MW! These trailers are getting hard to find now...70 plus years in farmyards or fields are really culling the population!

 

Mike

[simon king]

Finally got the rest of the metalwork to enable us to rebuild the neck of the trailer. Still wondering where to put the T plate though - on the rear boards or in the original position on strips welded to the RH rear rave.

 

Can anyone tell me the position of the holes in the two support legs on the GS trailer. I'm looking for the dimensions from the floor, as well as confirmation of the length - it seems around 30-31".

 

Also can anyone post a photo of the pin that secures the leg in the up or down position. I'm assuming it's just a piece of rod with holes drilled in it for the attaching chain, but does it have a split pin at the other end to stop it from coming adrift once in position and is this split pin also secured by a piece of bog chain or the like

 

Thanks

 

PS

 

Just come accross this picture of a Mortar trailer being used as an ammo trailer for a bedford MWG w/ Polsten

 

http://www.militaryimages.net/photopost/british-softskins-ii/p49003-british-softskins.html

 

sk

Edited December 31, 2013 by simon king

[simon king]

Trailer neck virtually completed. Just needs drilling off for the towing hitch, the crush tubes adding and then the end plate can be welded on. After that it's a case of grafting onto the existing frame. It's resting on the simple jig we used to build it - four angle brackets screwed to some wood.

 

 

Edited February 1, 2014 by simon king

[Griffo]

Hi simon, it's coming on well! Did you get the c section steel off the shelf or did you get it folded somewhere??

 

Dave

[simon king]

Hi simon, it's coming on well! Did you get the c section steel off the shelf or did you get it folded somewhere??

 

Dave

 

Had all the steel cut and/or bent at the local fabricator/steel stock holder to match the originals - they have a press to bend metal which is digitally controlled. It can even manage the c-section needed at either end of the tailgate.

 

They also fabricated the brackets for the handles for me

Edited February 2, 2014 by simon king

[Griffo]

Thanks Simon, I'll have to check some of my local companies to see if they can do it?

 

Dave

[Eyemo-ed]

Hi Folks,

Anybody got the rear view for this GS no2 trailer diagram? or a photo of one?

 

Mine is identical (including the hitch) except that it has a rear tailgate opening instead of front. I am trying to see if this was original or done when it was overhauled in 52. There is no evidence of a rear central stave being removed at the back of the trailer, so am trying to see if this design had one.

My front staves have the 2 holes for the locking posts on the gate to go through, so all very confusing, and I am about to make a final decision on placement of the gate.

 

 

Also anyone know how the lashing of the canvas top is done, it appears to use the corner hoops on the bottom of the frame in Tony's diagram, but it is obscured in the picture.

 

Finally, does anyone know what the correct abbreviated data plate lettering would be for a 'Reynolds' built trailer? ie OE for Orme Evans.

 

Cheers,

Sean

[Maurice]

I can take a picture from the rear of the trailer , but rear has 2 corner iron`s , and in the middle a u channel .

 

My Trailer GS with rounded mudguards is almost finished , wiring , and WD number still needs doing . Question now is the rebuild plate says it had post war number 80 ZA 72 and chassis number 8072, were can I write to ,to find out it`s wartime X number ?

[Tony Lawrence]

Hi Folks,

Anybody got the rear view for this GS no2 trailer diagram? or a photo of one?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]87536[/ATTACH]

 

Mine is identical (including the hitch) except that it has a rear tailgate opening instead of front. I am trying to see if this was original or done when it was overhauled in 52. There is no evidence of a rear central stave being removed at the back of the trailer, so am trying to see if this design had one.

My front staves have the 2 holes for the locking posts on the gate to go through, so all very confusing, and I am about to make a final decision on placement of the gate.

 

 

Also anyone know how the lashing of the canvas top is done, it appears to use the corner hoops on the bottom of the frame in Tony's diagram, but it is obscured in the picture.

 

Finally, does anyone know what the correct abbreviated data plate lettering would be for a 'Reynolds' built trailer? ie OE for Orme Evans.

 

Cheers,

Sean

 

Sean, look at the photos of my trailer during rebuild as there are some shots of the rear. There are angle uprights at each side and a channel section (the same profile as those on the sides) in the middle. I would suggest yours is a post-war 'conversion'. Are there any holes for the bolts attaching the hinges to the chassis at the front?

I cannot help on the lettering for the data plate. Any luck on the canvas tie hole spacing?

[Eyemo-ed]

Sean, look at the photos of my trailer during rebuild as there are some shots of the rear. There are angle uprights at each side and a channel section (the same profile as those on the sides) in the middle. I would suggest yours is a post-war 'conversion'. Are there any holes for the bolts attaching the hinges to the chassis at the front?

I cannot help on the lettering for the data plate. Any luck on the canvas tie hole spacing?

 

Hi Tony,

Yes my trailer has hinge holes front and rear. Does the rear centre channel on yours have the spacer plate welded in between it and the trailer frame same as the side ones?

I couldn't find any other info about the tarps hole spacing so have just let John (Worthings) get on with it.

I would like to work out that strange lashing set up shown on the side of the trailer in your illustration though.

[Eyemo-ed]

Finally got the rest of the metalwork to enable us to rebuild the neck of the trailer. Still wondering where to put the T plate though - on the rear boards or in the original position on strips welded to the RH rear rave.

 

Can anyone tell me the position of the holes in the two support legs on the GS trailer. I'm looking for the dimensions from the floor, as well as confirmation of the length - it seems around 30-31".

 

Also can anyone post a photo of the pin that secures the leg in the up or down position. I'm assuming it's just a piece of rod with holes drilled in it for the attaching chain, but does it have a split pin at the other end to stop it from coming adrift once in position and is this split pin also secured by a piece of bog chain or the like

 

Thanks

 

PS

 

Just come accross this picture of a Mortar trailer being used as an ammo trailer for a bedford MWG w/ Polsten

 

http://www.militaryimages.net/photopost/british-softskins-ii/p49003-british-softskins.html

 

sk

 

Simon,

I have one original leg which measures overall 31" including the foot disc.

The lower hole is at centre 6 1/8" from the top surface of the foot disc.

There is an upper hole centre at 12 3/4" from the top surface of the the foot disc.

 

As you can see there is a 1/2" hole in the foot disc.

The locking chain consists of a 2 3/4" split pin, 9" chain, 1 1/4" split ring and a 1 3/8" long metal tab with a hole for the split pin at one end and a 3/8 " hole for attachment to one of the bolts holding the leg casting onto the trailer body.

The foot disc is number stamped too, not sure of the significance..

hope that helps.

[simon king]

Thanks - That's useful. After some thought it seems that each leg had a locking pin, held in place by split pin and a safety hook to keep the leg in the up position, with c3/4" holes in the tube for the up and down positions.

 

I'm guessing the screw type locks dispensed with the two holes in the tube, but retained the safety hook.

 

Just need to find out how all the chains were attached at the front - perhaps the holes for the rings to secure the keeper chains have been welded up. At the back presumably they used the bolts that secured the tube bracket to the frame. Inevitably I suppose different manufacturers differed in the way they attched these chains as well......

 

 

SK

Edited February 22, 2014 by simon king

[HubbyHumber]

Hi to all who've either posted or read this thread,

 

Having read the whole of this thread over the last week, quite some endurance feat in itself, I've decided to take the plunge and join in, no less because I have 'one of these trailers' and didn't know that much about it, but hope that my small contribution may be of interest to someone.

 

Even though there is a vast amount of info on the thread, I'm still not 100% convinced that I know exactly which trailer I have, but I do know that its number (MoS 75 YK 77, Chassis 7569) is very close to the one on the thread in post #77.

 

Hopefully I might have succeeded in including a couple of photos:

 

 

 

 

 

 

I would be interested if anyone could let me have details of the correct canvas cover (size, eylet spacing etc), because somewhere in the thread I read that it wasn't fitted and yet in one of the recently posted photos from one of the manuals / parts lists it appears to me to be 'fitted' at the corners.

 

My trailer is currently under its winter storage covers, but when it does emerge for the coming rally season (behind my Champ) I'll try and get a decent photo.

 

Cheers

 

HubbyHumber (aka Adrian)

[Tony Lawrence]

Hi to all who've either posted or read this thread,

 

Having read the whole of this thread over the last week, quite some endurance feat in itself, I've decided to take the plunge and join in, no less because I have 'one of these trailers' and didn't know that much about it, but hope that my small contribution may be of interest to someone.

 

Even though there is a vast amount of info on the thread, I'm still not 100% convinced that I know exactly which trailer I have, but I do know that its number (MoS 75 YK 77, Chassis 7569) is very close to the one on the thread in post #77.

 

Hopefully I might have succeeded in including a couple of photos:

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]87879[/ATTACH]

 

 

 

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]87880[/ATTACH]

 

I would be interested if anyone could let me have details of the correct canvas cover (size, eylet spacing etc), because somewhere in the thread I read that it wasn't fitted and yet in one of the recently posted photos from one of the manuals / parts lists it appears to me to be 'fitted' at the corners.

 

My trailer is currently under its winter storage covers, but when it does emerge for the coming rally season (behind my Champ) I'll try and get a decent photo.

 

Cheers

 

HubbyHumber (aka Adrian)

 

Not much can be told about your trailer without seeing some photos of it! The number by itself is not much help and the only comment I can make is that you appear to have the rare type of hitch seen in the manual I posted in an earlier thread. Your plate number is indeed near that of Sean's (with the same rare hitch) but Sean's trailer is proving a bit of a mystery - we need to see photos.

[MWMike]

My trailer is coming along at a pace, the frame is at the shot blasters after having new raves fitted and I have stripped the axles partly. The new ash for the body arrived today too, and I have ordered some castings from a foundry for the cleats (and some for Sean!)

 

I suspect I need new bearings, so can anyone give me the bearing numbers and that for the external lip seal? I don't want to start knocking them about in case I damage something that I cannot replace! I've looked through the timken catalogues and can find a number of bearings that are similar! I'm sure i've seen a post about bearings but I cant find it now!!

 

Some people have said they have polished up the seal bearing surface on the shaft and fitted internal lip seals, but these would have a smaller inside diameter than the inner bearings, so how do you get the hubs on and off without damaging them?

 

Have people had the brakes relined? or are they the same as a Morris or Austin of the period? Mine have a stamp on them saying "new hudson"!

 

 

New raves and an adjusting device!

 

 

Trial fit of new mudguards. (FOS is Front off-Side!)

 

 

For those of you interested i had the New raves and replacement mudguards made by Mike Jackson, Springbank Industrial Estate, Monument Farm Lane, Ipswich, Suffolk, IP10 0AQ, in Kesgrave Ipswich, and my timber by Kevin in Kesgrave again on 07834337587. They are both next to each other on a farm type industrial estate, and very reasonable prices.

 

mike

[Tony Lawrence]

Interesting that your mudguard brackets are welded to the raves. Mine were bolted to both the raves and mudguards and certainly no sign that they were ever welded.