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Field stripping an L1A1

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Hi, I have just got my hands on an old spec L1A1, can anyone explain how to field strip it

 

Many thanks

 

Shaun

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ok top of my head

 

remove gas plug and spring

break the weapon

remove top cover

remove breach block and split

clean weapon

assemble oposite of spliting

cock the weapon and fire

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Hi Shaun. STOP. I would not try to break and strip the weapon before correct conduct is understood. I have Army code book No.71012....Infantry training Vol II for 7.62mm SLR. The chapter and cleaning runs into a few pages. Not at all a expert on cleaning etc. But before removing any part, clean ground sheet. Safety catch is at safe and the rifle is cocked, again check safety is on. Then stripping, cleaning can start. Sorry, to much to type here. If you want a copy of the pages concerned please PM me and will see if I can help. Is your SLR a Enfield one? love to see a pic or two.

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Hi Shaun. STOP. I would not try to break and strip the weapon before correct conduct is understood. I have Army code book No.71012....Infantry training Vol II for 7.62mm SLR. The chapter and cleaning runs into a few pages. Not at all a expert on cleaning etc. But before removing any part, clean ground sheet. Safety catch is at safe and the rifle is cocked, again check safety is on. Then stripping, cleaning can start. Sorry, to much to type here. If you want a copy of the pages concerned please PM me and will see if I can help. Is your SLR a Enfield one? love to see a pic or two.

 

Very sound advice, I have some expereance with shotguns, sporting rifles, and air rifles so I know a little bit about stripping wepon's down, but nothing like this so when I do strip it I want to be sure I know what im doing.

 

Mine is a BSA made in 58 with plastic furniture which someone has put green paint on in an attempt to camo it up. A friend of mine got it on the spure of the moment as old memorys flooded back when he looked at it, got it home and his wife wnt spair by all accounts and wont have it in the house:rotfl: so he offered it to me cheep :-D

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Sounds very nice indeed and BSA. Going to try and clean the furniture? If so be very carefull with solvents.:undecided:

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From my scale modeling days, I used what we know this side of the pond as Easy Off lemon scented NON heat activated oven cleaner.

 

Spraying that on any dry plastic with paint on it would remove paint, in layers if required and not affect the plastic in any way, coloured or clear plastic. If left for about half an hour and then rinsed with a tooth brush, then repeat once plastic is dry.

 

Hope you can find a similar product in the UK.

 

R

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ok top of my head

 

remove gas plug and spring

break the weapon

remove top cover

remove breach block and split

clean weapon

assemble oposite of spliting

cock the weapon and fire

 

David is SORT of right!

 

OK, Check safety catch is on safe.

Remove magazine.

Cock the Weapon.

Remove gas plug from front gas block. (It's the plug with a spring pluger on it's side. Press plunger & turn a 1/4 turn & it WILL come out)

On a Live version, you would remove the gas piston & spring. (A DEACT should NOT have these, as it's part of the requirement Spec to have them removed. HOWEVER, if the piston has also been Deactivated, thats Legal & fine)

Go to the rear LHS of the lower trigger mech housing. There is a lever with a button head at the end of it.

Pull this lever rearwards with your thumb whilst gripping the housing with the rest of your hand.

The Weapon will drop down in half. Pull out the Top cover & remove.

Pull to the rear the Working parts.

Then seperate the breechblock assembly from the main carrier.

You CAN strip it more than this, BUT, if you are not expirienced at this. I would NOT recomend it!

 

Clean the weapon with an old tooth brush & lightly oil. Reassemble in the above reverse order.

Cock the working parts again to ensure the action is closed & working correctly.

Release the safety catch (Change Lever!) & squeeze the trigger to ease springs.

Re-apply the safety catch & refit magazine & put The Rifle away!

Simples!

 

Dave, your guarding the Latrines next Chatham Fair!..............;)

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If you want to remove paint from plastic brake fluid is the easiest to get hold of it will eventually remove the paint.You can go to a large shop that sells model kits and toys and buy a product that will remove paint from plastic. I suspect caustic soda would do the same job check for aluminuim or any zinc coatings before dipping though.

 

Another way a couple of squirts of engine oil on a rag and a quick rub of the paint and see if you have any green paint on the cloth. A lot of MOD paint can be removed with petrol or oil as its not impervious to those products.

 

From my printing days ink in a lot of cases is made up of varnish as its base with added dyes and pigments. UV in is great fun on a printing press when the UV lights come into contact with the paper web. Fire

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Mr Muscle foam oven cleaner will remove paint from all types plastic

 

I use it to strip models when I get bored and want to repaint them :D

 

Don't get it on your hands though - it's vicious stuff

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Cheers for the tips on paint removal, I'm not sure paint it is though. It has been on there for a while by the looks of things but seems to come off if you run a finger nail over it. At least that means it should clean up easy :D

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Ensure on re assy that the return rod (rats tail) is centralised and close firmly..........do not slam shut!RegardsTim

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HOPE THIS HELPS

 

 

Slight difference as to the way it was done brit style. after cocking, gas parts off first then the top cover - then breech/working parts. reverse order for rebuild with gas parts last- this was also good if you got bumped part way through before getting gas parts on it could still be fired and cocked by hand etc.

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Slight difference as to the way it was done brit style. after cocking, gas parts off first then the top cover - then breech/working parts. reverse order for rebuild with gas parts last- this was also good if you got bumped part way through before getting gas parts on it could still be fired and cocked by hand etc.

agreed that's the way i use to do it ,just thought i would post the vid out of interest,by the way how much do a L1A1 make now ,just fancy one

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LOL...Instruction manuals... YOU WOT!?

 

Real men don't use instructions :cool2:

When I first got my SLR I stripped it that far down that the hammer piston flew past my ear as I had accidently pulled the trigger and it took me 3 hours to find it. I had the gun in 2 halves as well as I had even undone the hinge pin.

 

I also Now after much swearing know how to change stocks, pistol grips etc.

 

If you come across Forces 80 members inthe field they will be very happy to demostrate how to strip the SLR in under 5 seconds (I may be lying there :-D).

 

The manual arrived two years later with a big OH! thats how you do it..lol :red:

 

ta

Jon :angel:

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quote If you come across Forces 80 members inthe field they will be very happy to demostrate how to strip the SLR in under 5 seconds (I may be lying there :-D).

i used to be able to do it in the dark in 30 seconds but that was a LONG time ago LOL

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LOL...Instruction manuals... YOU WOT!?

 

 

 

If you come across Forces 80 members inthe field they will be very happy to demostrate how to strip the SLR in under 5 seconds (I may be lying there :-D).

 

 

 

 

 

 

ta

Jon :angel:

Looks like I'm not yet up to speed yet then, must try harder!

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Hi all,

 

One other aspect to stripping an L1, removing the butt..... its enough to make a grown man cry!!

 

I have worked on a number of these splendid Rifles over the years and without question this is the hardest part:

 

First remove butt plate screws (Wood) or circular cover (plastic) "It is easier in my opinion to separate the upper from the lower to do this task" then, holding the lower firmly end down on the floor and keeping pressure on the large screw/bolt very carefully unscrew and remove the two inter linked springs, you need to be very careful not to give yourself a black eye as the springs are under considerable tension!

 

Then remove the small screw underneath (by the pistol grip) and very carefully prize the butt away from the lower.

 

On a wood butt (not fitted to plastic) make sure you don't loose the small spring and shock absorbing pin situated at the lower front of the butt.

 

Refitting.............aaaahhhhh!

 

First and easiest get a surplus L1A1 butt fitting tool, it really makes life easy, or make your own by modifying a long thin screwdriver, or the Heath Robinson approach, use a knitting needle to guide the springs back down the hole and attempt to hold them there as you try to screw the bolt back onto the thread... this requires the dexterity and precision of an athlete and is guaranteed to make you swear and scream like a para...(your Neighbours will think you are locked in a fight to the death with a burglar)

 

By the way, wood is easier to fit than plastic.

 

trust me, buy the tool!!

 

Cheers all, John.

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