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FERRET: Problems with gearbox, Help!


signalcorps

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I have repaired the seal for fluid flywheel but I have a new problem, I can not change the shifter forward and backward on left of the driver. The gearbox scratch too! although the clutch pedal fully I have to stop the engine to move this lever.

Can anyone tell me I can do?

thank you.

 

Vicente.

Madrid

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Hi.

 

Here is an extract from a post in Ferret Heaven (A yahoo group for ferrets)

 

**

If you get the lever in neutral when the engine is running you must ALWAYS switch off the engine and re engage either forward or reverse (whichever was the one it was in previously) before restarting the engine, never try to re-engage forward/reverse from neutral with a running engine, this will damage things badly.

 

the normal procedure (the same as Ferret or any of these pre selects) is to move the lever fully from forward to reverse (or vice versa) in one continuous rapid but smooth operation without pausing at the neutral spot. The vehicle should be stationery and the engine running at low (ie at or very near idle) revs only, (if you have problems your rev setting maybe too high)

***

 

 

Remember the pedal on the left is not a clutch, you select the gear you want then push down and pretty much let it come back up by itself. Don't hold it down when changing gear.

 

 

Ps. Nice looking ferret ;-)

Edited by Toner
Typos and bit about gear change pedal
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Thank you very much for your quick reply but there is something unclear to me, you can move the lever with the engine at low revolutions, but according to the manual of the vehicle does the standard operation is performed by turning off the engine?

Can anyone tell me where to get the operating manual?

thanks you!

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Hello

 

All the manuals are available here and free to download from this great site:

 

http://www.ferret-fv701.co.uk/manuals.htm

 

See page 78.

 

Basically: IF the engine is running - select 1st gear on the gearbox (Gearchange pedal out) - Engine at Tickover, ferret stationary foot on footbrake - depress the gearchange pedal then quickly move the transfer box lever from Forward to Reverse (or Vice Versa) HOWEVER - If it is stuck in neutral you MUST stop the engine and get the transfer box in either Forward or Reverse before you start the engine.

 

There is a Knack to doing this smoothly, which will come with practice.

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Thank you very much for your quick reply but there is something unclear to me, you can move the lever with the engine at low revolutions, but according to the manual of the vehicle does the standard operation is performed by turning off the engine?

Can anyone tell me where to get the operating manual?

thanks you!

 

Hi

 

When the engine is running and the forward / reverse lever is pointing in the correct direction, then you can change to the other directon (front to back etc) as long as you do not hesitate in the middle.

 

If your forward / reverse lever is sitting in the middle then you have to turn the engine off to shift it.

 

The gear selecter (1st, 2nd etc) is on the right and let's you choose the gear you want before you need it.

 

The manuals are pretty handy.

 

Another website that has lots of good manuals is

http://ferret-afv.org/index.htm

 

You can download a later version of the manual here.

http://ferret-afv.org/manuals/3.05.08_1969%20User%20Handbook%20Bookmarked.pdf

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  • 5 years later...
Can anyone advise me? My Mk 2/3 Ferret was stood for 6 weeks and when I got it started the gear change pedal was solid. I pressed it somewhat and it suddenly went straight to the floor where it remains and I can get no traction at all.

 

Any advice?

 

Thanks

 

First thing to check for is if the pedal pivot is seized / rusted

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Can anyone advise me? My Mk 2/3 Ferret was stood for 6 weeks and when I got it started the gear change pedal was solid. I pressed it somewhat and it suddenly went straight to the floor where it remains and I can get no traction at all.

 

Any advice?

 

Thanks

 

If you pull it back up, does it flop back down?

 

If you can't see any broken or seized joints, it would be worth taking the tin work off to get to the GCP lever on the top left of the gearbox (As viewed standing behind the ferret, looking forward) Check the joints there.

 

If no joy, try disconnecting the linkage from the bit attached to the gearbox and manipulating the gear change lever directly on the box. (This is what I ended up doing)

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First thing to check for is if the pedal pivot is seized / rusted

 

It flops down to the floor.

Pedal pivot is fine and rod linkage moves back and forth in response to the pedal movement but does not seem to have any resistance inside the box. It is like whatever was being moved by the pedal being depressed is not there any more.:cry:

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Ok so I have done the following:

I have taken of the cover on the transmission that shows the pinion wheels.

I have taken off the cover that covers the band adjusters.

Moving the gear change pedal up and down makes no difference to these parts. Nothing moves.

 

I have then taken the small plate with four bolts off this is between the two large plates and can see a gadget is attached to the transverse bar that is moved by the gear change pedal. Moving the pedal moves this device vertically down and up and it is clearly hitting the oil in the transmission box because I can see it (the oil) moving around.

However it may move up and down but it does not seem to be attached to anything.

Sitting in the ferret with my back to the drivers seat I can see a large coil spring inside the transmission next to the gadget that goes up and down. To the left is a external panel with four bolts in it. Dare I remove this???

Using the manual I have identified that the bit that goes up and down is called the "Busbar operating sleeve", it moves the busbar bucket and the busbar oerating rod when the pedal is pressed. Does anyone have any idea what has gone wrong with this area of the box now?

I am sensing that this may become a major pull out of the unit..............................!

Edited by Peter Garwood
EXTRA INFORMATION
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I think you need to close things up and remove the linkage on the left side of the gearbox which connects to the GCP (gear change pedal) and get on to it with a length of pipe and careful not to have your face in front of it and pop the arm up or down, it will go quite easily and then connect every thing back up.

 

Done it a few times on Ferrets now, FYI get a set of manuals so you don't do things like opening things with big springs behind them!

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Another website that has lots of good manuals is

http://ferret-afv.org/index.htm

 

You can download a later version of the manual here.

http://ferret-afv.org/manuals/3.05.08_1969%20User%20Handbook%20Bookmarked.pdf

 

Both these links look dead -- they actually go to some spam-looking website that creates other ad morphing pages...

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I think you need to close things up and remove the linkage on the left side of the gearbox which connects to the GCP (gear change pedal) and get on to it with a length of pipe and careful not to have your face in front of it and pop the arm up or down, it will go quite easily and then connect every thing back up.

 

Done it a few times on Ferrets now, FYI get a set of manuals so you don't do things like opening things with big springs behind them!

 

Thanks Robin,

I am always wary of anything with a big spring in it as I have seen a number of accidents where someone has begun stripping a device with a big spring in it and bang!

I will get a big pipe and give it a go. What you are saying makes sense from a mechanical viewpoint.

 

Take care

 

Peter:kiss:

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Get yourself a Jolley Engineering electronic conversion and ditch the points. You won't regret it.

 

Cheers,

Terry

 

I concur, I've had two of Frank's ignitions on my Dodges. One 12 volt and one 6 volt. Never a problem with either, the 12 volt on the Dodge WC51 has been on about 10 years.

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