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new humber pig owner


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another piggy . welcome to the world of pigs :D

 

thanks , im loving working on this pig cant wait for the engine to run!

 

 

Yes diesel is o.k. its a recognised way of unseizing engines I think well known brand of cola has been used before now. It just means that you have to change the oil almost straight away once you have it rotating. If it doesn't want to rotate it would mean that you will have to take the head off to have a look at what the problem is. That might not be a bad idea anyway.

 

will get some diesel just sorted out a starting handle. the oil already has old fuel in for some reason so oil will be changed when i know the engine is un seized. As far as removing the head where would i get a new head gasket from because you cant re use them ? and what grade of oil does it take ?

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thanks , im loving working on this pig cant wait for the engine to run!

 

 

 

 

will get some diesel just sorted out a starting handle. the oil already has old fuel in for some reason so oil will be changed when i know the engine is un seized. As far as removing the head where would i get a new head gasket from because you cant re use them ? and what grade of oil does it take ?

 

If it has fuel in the oil you will need a rebuild kit for the petrol pump the diaphragm in the pump has expired

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ok , but bearing in mind it hasnt be run for 8 years is this still certain?

 

Yes and no the diaphragms do perish and feed petrol into the oil when they do go US. At the moment it doesn't really matter its something you can do / check when it runs and after you have changed the oil.

 

Head gasket Banisters would probably have those http://www.milweb.net/go/banister/

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Yes and no the diaphragms do perish and feed petrol into the oil when they do go US. At the moment it doesn't really matter its something you can do / check when it runs and after you have changed the oil.

 

Head gasket Banisters would probably have those http://www.milweb.net/go/banister/

 

thats a really helpful link , i will just keep an eye out on the oil when its running. Still amazed with how helpful people are on here

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thats a really helpful link , i will just keep an eye out on the oil when its running. Still amazed with how helpful people are on here

 

If the diaphram has perferated and petrol is getting into the sump the oil pressure will continue to drop. Take out the dipstick and smell it for petrol.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Turning the engine has proved to be very difficult , i bought a starting handle from clive - really good thanks clive !

but the pin that holds the end piece on snapped when i put pressure on the handle.

DSCF5214.jpg

 

im getting this welded on but any other suggestions to release the engine. whats your opinion on putting it in gear and pulling it very slightly?

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i tried turning mine over by hand :shocked: boy it was hard work & my engine turns over easy .. best of luck mate .im finishing off my new control panal ,hopefully next wkend mine will be running:nut: all the best mate

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Turning the engine has proved to be very difficult , i bought a starting handle from clive - really good thanks clive !

but the pin that holds the end piece on snapped when i put pressure on the handle.

DSCF5214.jpg

 

im getting this welded on but any other suggestions to release the engine. whats your opinion on putting it in gear and pulling it very slightly?

personally i wouldnt theres alot to go wrong , rear tranferbox pinion, i might be talking rubbish but i wouldnt drag mine ,a few other pig owners what would you do. im only a learner too paul
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Sounds well stuck to me..

Un siezed a VW Beetle motor once by towing around behind a tractor and dumping the clutch. Even that took some doing. It was a few laps of the farmyard IIRC. Mind you not much to break on one of them.

 

If it is that bad you are going to be stripping it anyway for a rebuild. I know I would.

 

Can't see the point of possibly breaking something else to fix something that is "broken".

 

Mike

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wow really not good news then. i will try one last thing suggested to me which was to put diesel into the cylinders for a week or two. pulling it whilst in gear is something thats too risky for me, id rather seized than broken!

 

flyingp

Re: new humber pig owner

i tried turning mine over by hand :shocked: boy it was hard work & my engine turns over easy .. best of luck mate .im finishing off my new control panal ,hopefully next wkend mine will be running:nut: all the best mate

 

 

 

thanks really hope it will free up im just praying its ok. and good luck hope yours runs well and smoothly

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wow really not good news then. i will try one last thing suggested to me which was to put diesel into the cylinders for a week or two. pulling it whilst in gear is something thats too risky for me, id rather seized than broken!

 

flyingp

Re: new humber pig owner

i tried turning mine over by hand :shocked: boy it was hard work & my engine turns over easy .. best of luck mate .im finishing off my new control panal ,hopefully next wkend mine will be running:nut: all the best mate

 

 

 

thanks really hope it will free up im just praying its ok. and good luck hope yours runs well and smoothly

 

Dont try to tow it, you can do damage anywhere between ripping out the clutch centre to the halfshafts, and anything in between. Have you checked that no water has seeped into a cylinder and caused it to "Hydraulic".

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Sorry, just looked further back in your posts, see that you have already removed the plugs, so its not an hydraulicing problem. Its looking increasingly like you may have to remove the head. You will probably have to remove the sump, establish which pistons are on the downward stroke, get someone to attempt to turn the engine with the starting handle whilst you tap the appropriate pistons, I did say Tap, using a piece of hardwood and hammer. The wood should almost fill the cylinder in order to spread the impact over the largest area of the piston. If none of this works you may have to remove the big end caps to establish which piston(s) are stuck......... at this point I suggest that you get the services of someone who knows precisely what they are doing, it just might work out expensive otherwise. Good luck, I hope that you soon get it sorted.

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I agree I think you will have to take head off & do some gentle tapping with wood. Unfortunately you can't remove the sump until you remove the engine. That requires quite some lifting or removal of the barricade ram & the radiator with all its armour & extract the engine forwards.

 

Just making up this metal coolant pipe with flexi-hose as it was split. DSCN6794.jpg

 

Don't worry too much about that, it is the crankcase breather that takes fumes to the carb to be burnt.

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I agree I think you will have to take head off & do some gentle tapping with wood. Unfortunately you can't remove the sump until you remove the engine. That requires quite some lifting or removal of the barricade ram & the radiator with all its armour & extract the engine forwards.

 

 

 

Don't worry too much about that, it is the crankcase breather that takes fumes to the carb to be burnt.

 

fantastic news guys - after squeezing a jack between the starting handle and barricade ram she turned over !!!

so relieved and after some turning its become relatively easy. Since im in the middle of replacing the exhaust system i noticed the WD40 and Corrosion X oil i had sprayed down the sparkplug holes had seeped out of the exhaust manifold side of the cylinder head - the exhaust manifold passages as in picture. - the WD40 had only leaked down into two passages when seized but after turning it was all six.

 

DSCF5224.jpg

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Richard that is indeed excellent news. I'm sure there are a lot of well wishers who are watching your progress who can share you sense of relief.

 

Whilst you have such good access, it would be worth taking those two panels off below the exhaust outlets & checking the exhaust valve tappet gaps. The clearances should be stamped on a plate on top of the rocker cover. Not all plates are up to date the exhaust clearance was once 10 thou (cold) but that was changed to 15 thou.

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fantastic news guys - after squeezing a jack between the starting handle and barricade ram she turned over !!!

so relieved and after some turning its become relatively easy. Since im in the middle of replacing the exhaust system i noticed the WD40 and Corrosion X oil i had sprayed down the sparkplug holes had seeped out of the exhaust manifold side of the cylinder head - the exhaust manifold passages as in picture. - the WD40 had only leaked down into two passages when seized but after turning it was all six.

 

DSCF5224.jpg

 

Squirt some engine oil in the cylinders and change the oil in the engine. If you can clean the oil filter in petrol do so and refit. Rotate the engine on the handle until you feel it freeing up.

 

Good luck you're very lucky that it wasn't cold seized it took more than 6months to free my engine off and I still have to pull a piston as its scraping muck on the cylinder liner when its rotated. :-(

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Going to Drain the engine oil today and clean the filter element. Will refill on monday but what grade of oil is best to use on the pig?

will now focus on replacing fuel lines - is it better to use rubber hose or copper for these ?

 

And when i manage to start the pig i'll make sure i get a video , one day im hoping to come up to W&P in it :)

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SAE30

Use copper. I used central heating oil pipe.

 

Also used it for the feed to the master cylinder & air compressor line (but you won't have that to worry about)

 

DSCF2478.jpg

 

DSCF2479.jpg

Edited by fv1609
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is it 5/16 copper piping for fuel lines or just brake lines ? just realised how much oil i need nearly 13litres! what size is the engine sump plug? i dont have anything to fit it.

 

and it doesnt look like the ends of the fuel lines are flared so i assume they have the olive fittings instead?

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Richard the parts book isn't a great help it just says "Plug, brass, BSP, 3/4 in" That of course is the size of the ole not across the flats!

 

Even a 1 1/4 AF is too small, I use a Whitworth spanner 3/4W but no idea what that equates to in AF.

 

I just took an old bit of the fuel pipe to B&Q & found a very close match. The new stuff of course is metric. Yes you need olives.

 

When you get to do the brake pipes best to use proper new imperial stuff (5/16 in ID) & buy a cheap flaring tool.

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the parts book isn't a great help it just says "Plug, brass, BSP, 3/4 in" That of course is the size of the ole not across the flats!

 

 

 

Hi Clive,

 

3/4" BSP has a thread diameter of 1.041" , the 3/4 relates to internal diameter of pipes using that thread.

 

regards, Richard

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