Jump to content

My first Landrover Restoration.


airportable

Recommended Posts

fair play mate....

.............by the look of the photos that is some kinda proper restoration going down there.......

.......in fact it's not a restoration..it's an absolute and entirely complete reconstruction...

and to a way higher standard than it ever came out of Soilihull with......

..respect !

Thanks, it's got to last me untill I'm unfit to drive! :D But honestly I still carn't believe how a tidy looking vehicle has shown to be so worn out and in need of major restoration to be safe and reliable. Just that old wiring harness on closer inspection has loads of faults, burnt wires and chaffed through spots not at first apparant.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 223
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Tonight problem found.:cry: On stripping the main box, first job is removing the layshaft bearing cover from the bell housing end. Result, layshaft bolt and heavy washer fell out!!!! Sheared off, try to remove sheared remains tomorrow, if can not remove it will mean a new layshaft etc. or replacement box. Must admit I was suprised how simple the main box is, no marking on the gears or synchro units at all. But how do I know what casting wear/damage as occured regards excessive end float under load?

Gearbox (4).JPG

Gearbox (5).JPG

Gearbox (7).JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Been for more parts today. Gearbox is now totally stripped, turns out to be in very good condition except for the lay shaft and decided to replace first/second synchro.unit, all seals etc and bearings. Picked up two I/R switches, one new, one boxed. Total cost £199.50
excuse me but there seems to be a *hitpart box in that picture!! Whatever is in the box A) won't fit. B) Will leak. C)will only last a few months before failing at the most inconvenient moment. Or D) will try to kill you by breaking just at the wrong moment. Please post us some pictures when you do the job again in a few months......
Link to comment
Share on other sites

excuse me but there seems to be a *hitpart box in that picture!! Whatever is in the box A) won't fit. B) Will leak. C)will only last a few months before failing at the most inconvenient moment. Or D) will try to kill you by breaking just at the wrong moment. Please post us some pictures when you do the job again in a few months......

It's a Land Rover it is meant to leak.

Surely you must mean "it won't leak".

 

Have got a few B**tpart bits on mine and have no problems with them, they seem to do the job adequately.

If they do fail I still have the metal cover over the fuel tanks to sit on.

 

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lol. The box contained a bearing, carn't remember the make (now fitted) but familiar to what went in tractors twenty or so years ago, and made in France. That full gasket set, I was charged £1.50 plus vat!! The scyncro. unit etc. new old Rover stock. I am very, very lucky with the parts supplier, He keeps finding me first class orig. parts. i.e. the Lucas I/R switch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Sorry things stopped working on that post! I had a go and thought that I had sorted the box. Got to admit defeat, a mate has recommended a local firm who do Landi box's. A quick chat to them, if I take the box it sounds like it may not cost too much to have sorted and will be guaranteed. Dont realy want to risk the box given me after fitting all new bearings seals etc to this box. Work progressing on the tub, some rot to sort but looking a good replacement.

New master brake cylinder, fluid and other new ignition parts (after melting points/condensor) Dont carry on working when tired!!! £101.50

Restoration,tub (7).jpg

Restoration,tub (6).JPG

Restoration,tub (3).jpg

Restoration,tub (2).JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Very quick update. Got my gearbox back three weeks or so back. Before I refit it decided it would be sensable to check the clutch all though it looked in a very good and clean condition. The plate showed no use at all, a very h/duty Borg and Beck. Decided to fit a new clutch assy. as my local dealer sorted me out a NOS Military one. Lucky I have a small lathe so able to turn a alignment tool for the clutch. Gear box/shafts all refitted.

Work on the tub coming on but not all going to plan, rebuilt (from two) to the stage where it is now refit, most of the 'rot' sorted one way or another so looking good. With the tub on, removed bolts holding the bulkhead etc. and aligned all up. Tub to bulkhead/ bonnet and into the front panel. All now fits a treat. Doors fit good.

Sprayed up tub etc. Working on the tub top of wheel arch panels, having to make up out of two tubs as well!

Smiths heater stripped down, repaired, and sprayed, rebuilt. Two major faults with that even! Taco cable, that needs to be replaced!! Oh well getting there, pics to follow.

Gearbox rebuild £330, Clutch assy. £80, including spare plate, 200 blind rivits £5, 1Lt. primer £7.74, used Rover gearlever assy £5.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Day off today, got a lead on a A/P in a breakers yard not too far away. Was not happy with the tub side panel I rebuilt last night (torn off canvas cleat leaving hole and tear in alloy) Lucky the panel left on the 'scrap' Landi was the one I wanted :-) Bumperette allso and metal work to hold in place the steering coloum shroud.

Panel £10, b/ette etc. £5. Not a bad day.

Collection (8).JPG

Refitting tub.JPG

Landrover tub (2).JPG

Refitting tub (3).JPG

Refitting tub (10).JPG

Restoration (3).JPG

Restoration (4) - Copy.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A couple of pics. of the heater. As stated on stripping two major faults were even found with it. 1. The resistor had one of the blind rivits sheared holding it in place. If your heater fan rattles may be worth checking as it is poss. a short could occur. 2. The inlet and outlet pipework, the inlet pipe soldered joint to metal work had failed allowing quite a bit of flex which could put a strain on the heat matrix it's self.

Restoration (7) - Copy.JPG

Restoration (9) - Copy.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

More parts etc. 5Lt primer and 5Lt thiners. £25

Steering coloum top bearing, fuel tank sender and speedometer cable £35.40

The cable was from a std SerIII, no Airportable one available at my stockest. Was just about nine inches longer, and the retaining plate of cable on the gearbox needed the three allen screw holes opening up 1/32" each.

Phone call to let me know the top coat is ready for collection. Traffic White.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Collected Traffic White paint today. £25-5Lt.

Fitted the new top bearing to the steering column. Not a bad job done with care. Was lucky as the column came away from the shaft and box with pullers with out loosing any of the bearing, that would have been a different matter. Used a sash clamp to gently ease the new bearing into place. Re-assembled the column to the box by gently using the steering wheel nut to 'push' back into place.

Restoration.JPG

Restoration (2).JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Been quite busy over the Christmas period with a few days off work. Tub all but finished and tilt frame sorted and replaced, handbrake all refitted, fuel lines sorted and replaced, servo and all sorts of bits and pieces replaced. One wing cleaned up and offered up, fits a treat. Metal work on steering coloumn back on. On the down side the indicator switch etc. is not the mil. spec. one bought as such from a on line auct. site, but a very cleaver 'botched' civi. one. Not a happy bunny. The new loom has the correct connectors for Military one.

Restoration, year on (8).JPG

Restoration, year on (6).JPG

Restoration, year on (4).JPG

Wings back on.JPG

Wings back on (2).JPG

Wings back on (4).JPG

Wings back on (7).JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Robin. In the photo. the fuel pipe hides a second switch the same. Fuel tap turned to driver side, tap operates switch, switch operates fuel gauge to show fuel level in that tank. Same with the tap turned to passenger side. (Still need to be wired in correctly)

Edited by airportable
Gramma
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Things coming on a pace at the mo. Day got off to a real bad start with the gales and a Guinea Pig making a dash for freedom! Safely recaptured.:)

Brake master cylinder had been refitted and system filled and bled. Two slight weeps soon sorted. Yet need to slacken off shoes again, rebleed and readjust but all seamed great.

Heater sorted and fitted, had to make up the flex hose from the head tap as correct one unavailable, easy made up with two std. Landi. 90' ones. Talking of which while hunting for a piece of tube found another A/P instrument panel complete with most of the switches and chunk of loom attatched, real great help with rewiring. Also found quite a few Landi. complete side light/indicator assemblies in very good condition I forgot I had. Coolant system filled and engine run untill hot, checked for leaks. Drained down and refilled with coolant.

BUT highlight of the day. Driven out of the shed under Her own steam for the first time in 13/15 years. A mile stone and really pleased how every thing seemed ok. :-)

Restoration (4).JPG

First Outing - Copy.jpg

First Outing (2) - Copy.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Things coming on a pace at the mo. Day got off to a real bad start with the gales and a Guinea Pig making a dash for freedom! Safely recaptured.

 

Congratulations on getting it moving.

 

Guinea pigs and Land-Rovers, eh, me too. Maybe we should start a Pig and Lightweight Forum? :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

btw , for what it is worth , I have known a few main-harness burn outs where the loom passes through a square hole about 1.1/2" x 1.1/2" in the bulkhead. I always dress any sharp edges & give a bit of extra wrap. I don't know if ever was a part number (never looked) sometimes you find them and often you don't. It is a 2" cube of firm foam that you stuff in the square hole to stop movement on the loom. IIRC I use a bit of 22mm Climatube (copper tube insulation lagging) - probably better than what Solihull used.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the tip Ruxy. Had got some foam lined up for the job, but the pipe lagging foam is a much better idea. Have realised after today during a little more rewiring that the new loom has no wires for the I/R function. MAY have a look at whats required and make up relevent part of the loom. (still got the old one) On the point of looms, I have used the old one for ref. (was all tagged up as I thought I would be reusing it) Can not believe how many faults, breaks in insulation etc. I have found. Would have caused a load of serious problems and prob. a disaster.

Wiring dia. Have found the one in the Ser III (lightweight) users manual to be by far the most usefull, in conjunction with my FFR for ref.

Pig and lightweight forum, now that's a idea.

Found later in the day my mate had taken a short video on His phone that is rather good of the first 'outing' No ides how to upload/ post or anything, have a go when tec. knowledge available.

Instrument panel bulbs x 6 and few connectors. £6.73

Forgot to add I recieved £84.30 for the scrap chassis and other unwanted parts back in the Autumn.

Edited by airportable
Gramma
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...