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Civilian Mk1 Militant


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At the end of the last instalment which was back in November, I wrote "If everything goes to plan" .......... Never does though!!

 

As we all know it rained a bit, then it snowed a bit, then it was Christmas, Happy New Year and here we are 4 months later at the back end of February. Don’t time fly?

 

So I thought it was about time to update you all on the efforts throughout the winter, and add a slack handful of pictures, although I have to say most of the time it has been too cold and wet to encourage much effort, bearing in mind the Militant lives outside.

 

Feels like I have done a lot and achieved very little. Most of it has been small bits done in the shed at home or in the good wifes kitchen. Dashboard got finished and wired up on New Years Day.

 

168A kitchen wksp.jpg

 

 

It’s sitting in place on the truck but I haven’t screwed it down yet as I am still connecting bits into it.

 

New Oil pressure sender unit has been found and fitted, raided from a Gardner engine in a double decker bus! Works very nicely as well. Charging has been sorted, looks like the dynamo just needed a bit of practice, after I’d had the engine running for half an hour or so, it suddenly came on line nice steady 28.5 volts at anything just above tickover.

All the flooring is now in and the new seats finish the job. This is good as it gives you somewhere to sit while finishing the electrics, but bad when you need to get under the dashboard to connect things up.

 

179 Steering 1 Feb 2011.jpg

 

 

Looks an awful lot better than it did when this picture was taken in April 07

 

46 Under Dash Apr 07.jpg

 

 

I did have the idea of putting a second seat in the passengers side but it wouldn’t have left enough leg room for anyone bigger than a deformed dwarf. So it stays as a two seater and the spare seat has now gone to a good home via fleebay

 

170 Passengers Seat.jpg

 

 

171 Drivers Seat.jpg

 

 

 

The headlights have had a full makeover complete with a new set of halogen lamp units which are far better than the original spec ones, they actually shine light on the road so you can see where you are going. I’ve even got them fitted in the right place, on the proper brackets and not just hanging off the front bumper.

 

183 Headlamps before.jpg

 

Lamps Before

 

184 Headlamps After.jpg

 

Lamps After

 

Somewhere along the way I lost one of the cable ferrules from the back of one of the lights, I knocked it off the end of the workbench and it must have fallen into a black hole or something, because despite having a major clear out and search of the shed it was not to be found. So need to find a replacement.

 

 

Just a thought, Militants weren’t built with a warning light for main beam! Would that be because the lights weren’t that bright in the first place? :-D:-D Anyway it’s got one now.

 

 

Next mission is the indicators, previously only the off side front one worked, the nearside wouldn’t flash they just stayed on, but I have a new flasher unit to go in and indicator switch/Mushroom so it should be all OK.

 

The switch was purchased from a show a couple of years ago, as "new old stock" still sealed in its original box! Now the switch is fitted I’m not sure what to do with the box, it seems wrong to throw it away as it is some 46 years old, it is an antique in it’s own right. Any ideas?

 

DSC00801.jpg

 

I have refitted the air filters and their associated pipework and hoses, some of which had to be adjusted because it should mount onto the spare wheel carrier, and I haven’t got one of them at the moment. But a couple of extra brackets have done the job for now. It’s only a temporary fitment anyway they will have to come off shortly so that I can finish the repairs/painting across the back of the cab.

 

185 Air condenser temporary fitting 2.jpg

 

 

Having got the engine running and the comfy seats in thoughts turned to air pressure and stopping ability. The dashboard air gauge and wipers never worked, and a cheap plastic gauge had been fitted to one of the air tanks. This works but the lens is so clouded up you can’t tell what the pressure is.

 

Problem with the dash was traced to a blocked pipe under the off side wheel arch. Replaced this with a nice new length of brake pipe from the local garage and everything is up and running. Air builds up fairly quickly to around 130 PSI.

 

Air powered wipers are fab!! Infinite speed control from very slow to absolute manic. Self parking is not too good though. Screen wash still needs finishing.

 

Haven’t attacked the actual brakes yet, they are a bit further down the list, waiting for the better weather. Front ones appear OK, but I think the back brakes are seized on as the cylinders don’t appear to retract once you take your foot off the pedal. I’ve also got a couple of air leaks, where the trailer couplings used to be.

 

These have been removed. The service line has a bit of plastic pipe which has been folded over at the end and cable tied up.

 

219 Service Brake Air Line.jpg

 

 

And this is the Emergency line

 

218 Emergency Brake Air Line.jpg

 

Can't think why it leaks :undecided:

 

Will be on the lookout for a set of red and yellow couplings and taps shortly, in the meantime a pair of proper blanking caps will solve the problem.

 

Where are we now, sat in the armchair with a heavily strapped up left foot! Slipped while getting out of the cab on friday and did the left ankle. Spent half of saturday at the local blood station, came away with a slack handful of pills and instructions to sit down and rest. Nevermind there's always next week :-D:-D

 

 

 

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What a great thread. That's going to look fantastic when finished. Just out of interest what wiring did you use for the new loom as my Explorer will need a complete new one. I know some people have used 7 core cable as a substitute if not going back to military spec. Hope that ankle gets better quickly and work continues well. daz

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Thanks for the encouragement guys, as for the wiring I intend using 7 core for the rear lights, makes it easier to run from front to rear. Rest of it is being done with individual rolls of Durite cable and twin core red and black, which I have "accquired" as they say while at work. I should have a fair bit of it left by the time I'm done and will probably pass it on as a job lot

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Hi Rob,

 

sorry to hear you're a clumsy pillock! I fell out of the cab last year, slipped on the top step, landed on the floor whilst still holding onto the top handrail, felt like I'd been on a medieval rack.

I might have an air gauge if you're stuck, just need to have a rummage. Militant looking very nice, it'll look beter when you start to put the green on :)

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Rest is just another word for boredom! Bad ankle or not had to investigate air leak.

 

Red trailer air line has been cut off (see earlier photo) By rights air should pour out of here, but it only leaks a bit. Why??

 

Someone has made a plug out of matches and newspaper!! :shocked::shocked::shocked: Is this bodge of the year?

 

Pipe 2.jpg

 

 

Any thoughts?

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Rest is just another word for boredom! Bad ankle or not had to investigate air leak.

 

Red trailer air line has been cut off (see earlier photo) By rights air should pour out of here, but it only leaks a bit. Why??

 

Someone has made a plug out of matches and newspaper!!:shocked::shocked::shocked: Is this bodge of the year?

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]41974[/ATTACH]

 

Any thoughts?

 

I suppose they couldn't find a ball bearing the right size to replace the pipe and olive!

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  • 1 month later...

About due for another progress report on the old Militant. Weather has picked up and lighter evenings means much can be done. 90% of the electrics are finished and working. Thanks to a bit of advice from forum members, even the fuel gauge works. It is, as suggested, somewhat inaccurate. More like a swingometer with readings "somewhere in the region of".

 

Engine runs sweetly, air builds up, lights, indicators, wipers, washers, hooter, all systems go. Nearly ready for a run round the block.

 

Time to think about the exterior paintwork. Brush painted Zinc Oxide may be good at keeping the tin worm at bay, but it’s not quite the finish I am looking for. Need to move it round a bit to get better access for spraying.

 

Off we go then, start up, build air, dip clutch, engage gear, wont move, engine stalls. Try again, more revs this time, nothing! Right, teddy out of cot, low ratio and bags of revs, make it have it and force the thing to move. Still nothing, except for that smell you get when the clutch gets a bit excited. Oh Poo!! Best not do that anymore :-(

 

Quick inspection revealed problem, rear brakes seized solid. Should really have noticed this before when I was building the air up and fixing the leaks. Stamp on the brake pedal and look out of the back window, nothing is moving.

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Plan Z then, forget painting, strip out brakes and free off, shouldn’t take too long, just release them so it can be moved. Not on your life, as you can see from the photos, they don’t appear to have been working for some time. I know it hasn't moved for 5 years, but I didn't think they would be that bad.

 

Nearside first, jack up, wheels off, drums off, shoes off. No! not quite like that, seized linkage is holding shoes on, drums wont move even slightly. Move goalposts again. Strip out seized linkage first, easier said than done. Much cursing and swearing, heating and cooling, and several cans of penetrating fluid, eventually unhooked enough to remove the bulk of it.

 

207 Seized brake linkage.jpg

 

Still came out in a big lump

 

191 N-S old 1.jpg

 

Drums eventually pulled off revealing a lot of rust and a collection of spiders that even the British Museum would be proud of. All had to go, thousands made homeless as they say.

Underneath the cobwebs, there is still a reasonable set of brake shoes which have cleaned up quite well and will do another turn once everything else has been cleaned and refurbished.

 

192 N-S old 2.jpg

 

 

197 O-S old 1.jpg

 

Then the off side, easier now all the linkages have been stripped away.

 

199 Spot the hub seal leak.jpg

 

Drum removal reveals one good set of shoes and one oily mess.

New hub seal required. Hub removal is a good game, not one for the faint hearted

 

200 Four and a half inch AF.jpg

 

Four and a half inch A/F nut needs Four and Half inch spanner!!

 

201 Snap on.jpg

 

Not quite Snap On, but it works. Quality Engineering :D:D:D Took several major swipes with a 14lb sledge before it moved, but once cracked off it was easy enough to turn by hand. I'm sure it shouldn't be that tight, anybody know how tight it should be?

 

205 Brake bits.jpg

 

 

All bits back home to the shed for cleaning and painting

 

209 Paint shop.jpg

 

First item off the production line

 

Amazing what you can do with a wire brush and a bit of emery cloth.......................... oh,and a grit blaster, hot parts washer, spray gun...

 

Fortunately there's a nice man on flee bay selling new hub seals, brake shoe return springs are the same as fitted to AEC buses, so a new set of them are on the way as well and with a bit of luck over the coming bank holidays I might get back to plan A and start painting.

 

There's just one other thing. Somewhere in these nettles is a spring clip from one of the brake cam rods.

 

Lost.jpg

 

 

I haven't quite plucked up the courage to stick my hand in there to find it. Still haven't in 2014

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OK, so I made a pigs ear of submitting the yesterdays post :red::red::red: I managed to get the photos in on the second attempt. Many thanks to Joris for advice on where I went wrong. Couple more pics here.

 

Oily wheel hub awaiting cleaning and new seal

 

204 Oily hub.jpg

 

 

Nice new shoes

 

212 New shoes.jpg

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good stuff, pictures would be nice, but the description gives a good idea what a pig of a time you had.

 

I wouldn't say it was a pig, just interesting, certainly beats the day job working on Dennis Darts and clapped out Leyland Titans :D

 

Ta for the PM, I've got one of those repair kit thingys with my push bike if you want to borrow it. Little white box with Dunlop on the front

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Great job on the brakes. It all looks very familiar. The drums are quite heavy, especially when they've gone on and off several times in a day. Hopefully you don't have to get your Militant tested? The set up on the brakes was never designed for a rolling brake test, with the rod pulling one on and the tube pushing on the other, it's almost impossible to get them matched in my experience! Obviously it would have been a far better set up with one actuator per wheel station. Hopefully once they're all back together the brakes work as well as they do on mine, as I've never had any worries about stopping, just the hassle of getting through the M.O.T. test!

 

Jules

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Great job on the brakes. It all looks very familiar. The drums are quite heavy, especially when they've gone on and off several times in a day. Hopefully you don't have to get your Militant tested? The set up on the brakes was never designed for a rolling brake test, with the rod pulling one on and the tube pushing on the other, it's almost impossible to get them matched in my experience! Obviously it would have been a far better set up with one actuator per wheel station. Hopefully once they're all back together the brakes work as well as they do on mine, as I've never had any worries about stopping, just the hassle of getting through the M.O.T. test!

 

Jules

 

I shouldn't need an MOT as it's older than 1960, but as "they" are still umming and arring over changing the age laws, I might need one yet.

 

I've already spoken to my local test station and, as I know them quite well through work, I can use the official rollers to help with setting up the rods properly. I think it will be worth doing, even if it means taking half the prop off to get a decent reading

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You won't need to take prop off to test as an HGV, as the test centre can spin the wheels on each axle in opposite directions, to prevent the drive being taken to the other rear axle. It will measure the maximum effective braking on each station, and show other faults, such as binding, or ovality of the drums.

 

If tested as a heavy class 4 you would need to remove the rear inter axle propshaft, as both wheels on each axle need to rotate forward at the same time to test the imbalance through the range of braking. Hopefully the law won't change and you won't need a proper test.

 

My test is rushing around again, and I can see an argument over whether I should have a Tapley test as a heavy class 4, or take my inter axle prop off as the examiner suggested last year, or whether he'll test as if testing as an HGV, and then spend half an hour working out the imbalance by hand after the test. I can't wait!

 

Jules

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My test is rushing around again, and I can see an argument over whether I should have a Tapley test as a heavy class 4...........

 

Jules

 

Yes, I've read about your trials and tribulations at the Test Centre on previous threads. They do seem to over complicate things sometimes. Anyway, best of luck with it, and I'm sure you'll let us all know how it gets on

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  • 1 month later...

RECYCLING

 

Doing ones bit to save the trees etc while working on the rear lights for Militant.

 

1. Take a used 45 gallon oil drum

 

Oil drum 1.jpg

 

 

2. Annoy the neighbours with lots of cutting, grinding and hammering

 

Oil drum 3.jpg

 

 

3. Have a couple of practice runs to get the design right

 

Light Unit 1.jpg

 

 

4. Last bit of cutting and sticking

 

Light unit 3.jpg

 

 

5. Coating of zinc oxide

 

N-S light unit 2.jpg

 

 

6. One rear light unit

 

N-S light unit 1.jpg

 

7. Weld into back of truck

 

295 N-S-R light unit.jpg

 

 

Might not be original fitment, but it will do the job and no trees were hurt during the making. All I've got to do now is make a matching one to fit the off side

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Do like a good before and after picture. Todays efforts, and the addition of recently acquired rear corner brackets

 

220 Chassis with Moss Feb 2011.jpg

 

 

This is the before taken in February this year

 

250 winch rollers Jul 2011.jpg

 

 

and this is the after. Been told I paint in the 'Enry Cooper "splash it all over" style :D:D

 

It did start raining halfway through painting, hence the blobs all over it.

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