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Stolly sort of swimming, trouble getting out.


gritineye

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Perhaps we can all stay safe if we over do it:D The biggest shackle/chain you can use for the job. stronger than any load you can put on it. Oh and make sure you connect it to something that is firmly attached to the thing your towing:cool2:

I often see lots of second hand sets of lifting brothers for sale on trade stalls around steam rallys. having looked at some of them closely they would not pass an inspection. and they want silly money for them too. I've heard people saying they will be fine for use at home and for towing ect but this is the sort of thing that fails and explodes bits of chain link all over the place. I'm not saying al of them are knackerd but this bear in mind if the thing you are towing / lifting is near the max SWL on your decidedly second hand overpriced new purchace :-) The man who inspects out gear at work is really sound and is more than happy to have a look at my newly purchased overpriced decidely second hand stuff. he will either say yey or nay or sometimes remove/ renew the termimal links ect. However being slightly in the know i haven't managed to buy anything dodgy but i still have it checked by the nice man for free.:D

 

Very true.

Having recently bought another 2 pairs of brand new, certed 4-leg lifting brothers, i was pleasantly surprised how cheap they were when you compare some of the prices for second hand ones.

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yes there are still bargins to be had usually on the stalls set up by private sellers who clearing out their stuff for a bit of extra cash. I find the "trade" stall prices are just to silly these days and you've got to ask if its worth saving up an extra few and buying something new with papers to certify:-) £90 for hold fast gorund anchor thingy:nut: I can make one for less than half that:shocked: " but thats what they are going for he says" "and thats what its staying for i says":D and toddle off to the next stall to look at shiny overpriced brass stuff:yawn:

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I think all winches elec air mechanical and hydralic are rated on bare drum eg first layer by manfacturers. (except for the more expensive constant line pull ones by rochler and plummet)

Mechanical winches oftence have shear pins or friction clutches to stop overload. Air and hydraulic have relief valves. Very expensive electric winches sometimes have thermal overload cut outs on them. All winches must when tested be able either through friction or gearing or brakes be able to hold the full load with out running back. Now a days recovery operators who take thier vehicles for Lolar examinations (a requirement for many contracts) have fallen out of favour with the electric winches. The reason being the cheaper electric winches even between the same models in the same range have such a vaired stall piont.

Little tip as stated winches are rated on bare brum.

You have got stuck at the bottom of a long steep bank. You have a tree at the top and your vehicle is going to take 3 tons to pull it up. you have a 4 ton hydraulic winch on front bumper so you make with the winch and go for it. Embarassment your winch stall before you get to the top.

Reason as layers go on winch power reduces.

To show how much our bigger wreckers are fitted with twin 12.5 ton Superwinches these will pull 12.5 tons on bare drum. 5th layer they only pull 6.3 ton a big difference.

So what ever the size of winch you have it pays to know what it will pull on each layer

 

Whoops forgot to say in answer to Rcubed rope is matched to first layer rating. On cheaper winches drum diameter is sometimes that small rope gets permantly deformed wrapping round it

Edited by cosrec
missed a bit
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Some of the lifting gear suppliers eg ships riggers operate on site testing for lifting gear. If you have a word with them the can be a good source of cheap equipment for winching.

They do site visits to large companies and end up with skipfulls of straps shackles etc. Sometimes for no other reason than office staff cant find the certificates for them or they have lost there id tags.

Only get gear that is way above the capacity of the winch you own and has no obvious damage.

At the moment i think those endless straps made of like nylon rope with protective sleeves on are the best things since sliced bread and working loads way above what you would think. Lighter than chains and as long as you dont wrap them round sharp edges will get you out of the s?*t . You can leave your hemp ropes wrapped around front bumpers for authentisity and just get these from under your front seat if you need them

Edited by cosrec
damed computer used wrong words
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Just waded (!) through this thread. Not going to make any comment on the incident or this discussion, just a few general points which might be helpful:

 

IF you've got recovery equipment and are going to get involved in recovery or towing just 'for fun', there's no reason you can't inform yourself and work to a good, safe standard. The kit and the information is all available, often cheap or free. It's interesting, it'll mean you get more enjoyment from the vehicle, and it might keep you safe if you use it 'in anger'.

 

Regulations such as LOLER apply where the Health and Safety at Work act applies, but there's no reason you can't apply the standards in private life; they're simple, straightforward and not onerous. See http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg290.pdf

 

In particular, inspecting equipment is straightforward and information on how to do so and what to look for is freely available on the interweb, often on the sites of equipment manufacturers such as Crosby. Knowing what to look for will also help when buying used kit at shows. If you don't want to do it, it's a few quid per piece of kit for one of the equipment suppliers to do it. We inspect every six months - start and end of the show season might be suitable.

 

Don't assume new kit is expensive. Trade lifting equipment suppliers are helpful and reasonably priced (I can't remember the last time I paid more than £20 for a webbing sling). As Cosrec says,buy modern kit and hide it, leaving the period stuff for show; the modern kit is so much better and easier to use.

 

Understand how to work out loadings and load limits, and how using the tackle affects what loads it will cope with. All the information is out there, usually for free and again, often on the equipment manufacturers' websites.

 

Information about how to use the kit and carry out recoveries is readily available as well. If you want to keep the military theme, various editions of the REME recovery manual can be had at shows etc. I think the US version is available on the internet, and there's plenty of other information out there. Cosrec's already referred to Tow 411, a mainly American towing and recovery forum; it's packed with invaluable advice and examples of recoveries which have gone right and wrong, with useful discussion and pointers - how to and how not to!

 

Read the towing and recovery thread: http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?8900-Recovery-and-Towing/page2

Edited by Sean N
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Sorry to keep banging on this thread but i posted out of shear anger at the way this job was carried out.

I have posted scince to give what i believe to be friendly advise and hopefully save people grief.

I think SeanN has finally done what i cant put into words and summed up the whole job.

Its not rocket science a little bit of research will give you a whole load of knowledge. Perhaps even make you a bit of money in the process heres a link to show you what can do if you think things through.

 

http://tow411.yuku.com/topic/44761/t/Toyota-Landcruiser-wrecker-vs-23000kg-excavator.html

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