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Replica Schwimvagen...


mark m uk

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Wasteing my time indeed !.........or am I ?

 

Found some reproduction seats for the type 166, Only about £150 each, but it is plus shipping taxes etc - I guess it could nearly double ? ? ?

 

Anyway, The whole idea was to enjoy the build - so I made some.

 

seats166002.jpg

 

seats166005.jpg

 

166seats-jerrycans001.jpg

 

moreseats004.jpg

 

And here they are fitted in the body. Anyone following this thread will know that this is not an attempt to slaveishly copy 100% a 166,- but more an attempt to build a full scale replica of a 166, working from a model and photographs. The whole idea is to use standard Beetle and available VW parts.

 

Here are three pictures, one of the model, one taken from a book of a real 166, and of course my replica.

 

Give us your opinions boys - how is it shapeing up !

 

moreseats005.jpg

moreseats007.jpg

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I know it ain't a real one, and likely to get sneered and laughed at by the

guys that like their stuff 100% - but don't forget, it is just a hobby.

 

I got nothing against 100% accurate restoration - ask anyone that has seen the attention to detail on my GPA, but there is room for us all.

 

Regards Mark.

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Thanks for the great replies chaps,

 

very useful contacts regarding the Czech reproduction parts. I have emailed an enquiry.

 

Could anyone here with experience advise me as to the likely cost of import duties ?

 

Thanks again for your continueing support and help. Regards Mark.

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This is excellent, I've seen far worse fabrication by people who have all the toys & should know better.

 

Originality & history has its place, but so does just having fun! I couldn't be trusted with anything that needed preserving, like you I'd just want to drive it & use it, so the idea of just building a new one really appeals.

 

Just a thought, but if you're going to swim it it may be worth looking at getting the body galvanised before you start throwing paint around. People dip Land Rover chassis & bulkheads for not much money, and it does postpone tinworm very effectively.

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For a rough working replica, its certainly looks accurate enough and to most will probably appear quite real. That really is an excellent job you are making of it, you are quite clearly talented in the metal work department, and it goes to show it isnt just the tools that make the difference.

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Just a thought, but if you're going to swim it it may be worth looking at getting the body galvanised before you start throwing paint around. People dip Land Rover chassis & bulkheads for not much money, and it does postpone tinworm very effectively.

 

Looking like an excellent fabrication job. Wouldn't be surprised if you don't find customers asking you to build them one when it's done.

 

Don't think I'd risk hot dip galvanising for fear of distortion, especially after all that hard work. Thin sheet metal doesn't like the heat of hot dip galvanising typically 600 deg plus.

Best bet would be to use a quality zinc primer, seam sealer and waxoyle where possible, should give much better corrosion protection than the originals. Keep it away from salt water as that's far more corrosive than fresh water.

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I presume this will be a 2 wheel drive?

How will you get it out of the water?

Keep up the good work.

 

Weight of the engine and gearbox is directly over the driven wheels though, should give good traction, especially with original aggressive tread pattern tyres.

 

Were the originals four wheel drive?

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Weight of the engine and gearbox is directly over the driven wheels though, should give good traction, especially with original aggressive tread pattern tyres.

 

Were the originals four wheel drive?

 

The originals were 4 wheel drive and had diff locks IIRC.

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Thanks for the very good replies chaps, very helpful indeed.

 

Yes, the originals were four wheel drive. Although I have been told that they were only able to be used in fourwheel drive mode in 1st and reverse.

 

I am not certain of that, and it would be really good to hear from someone that knows.

 

This one will be two wheel drive - I have thought long and hard about making it all wheel drive and the issues are enormous - I figured this first one will have enough challenges without the added complication of a driven front axle - making that decision early on has been quite 'liberating'.

 

The MKII TYPE VW 166 Schrapwagen may well have fourwheel drive, if I can figure out how to do it in a cost effectrive way.

 

It is an enormous challenge to do this without spending too much money, and not losing sight of the main goal - which is to see if a 'fair' representation of a 166, can be built for a reasonable cost. It is important to use parts that are plentiful and cheap. Any future owners can use these vehicles without fear of running out of spare parts.

 

This concept was born because I find it really frustrateing to have a vehicle that is too 'nice' and too 'valuable' both in historical and monitary terms to use as I would like.

 

I know someone (who shall remain nameless) that had a nice GPA, Having agreed to sell it, he took it out to sea for a final play befor delivery.

 

I am fortunate to own what I (and others) consider to be one of the best and most original GPAs - I cannot bring myself to put it in any water, god forbid salt water.

 

I have a very good pal that has owned a DUKW for years. He invited me to crew on it during the famous crossing of the channel trip on the 50th anniversary of D-Day.

 

A splendid thing to do, and enormous fun - but reskinning that DUKW a few years later was the real cost !

 

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36e738f0.jpg

 

 

Thanks again for your comments and help guys,

 

Regards to all, Mark.

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There are numerous ways to achieve a bit of 4WD help without putting a full drivetrain in - for low speeds you could use simple hydrostatic or even (a-la bike engined kit cars) a starter motor & ring gear driving into a diff.

 

Free-wheeling hubs for Land Rovers (£20-50 per pair) could be adapted to let you disengage any drive to the front once out of the water.

 

Just a few ideas for the think wok.

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There are numerous ways to achieve a bit of 4WD help without putting a full drivetrain in - for low speeds you could use simple hydrostatic or even (a-la bike engined kit cars) a starter motor & ring gear driving into a diff.

 

Free-wheeling hubs for Land Rovers (£20-50 per pair) could be adapted to let you disengage any drive to the front once out of the water.

 

Just a few ideas for the think wok.

 

Valid ideas for temporary drive to the front wheels. I believe the main problem lies in using the VW beetle front axle is that there's no provision for drive to the hubs. The steering kingpin is solid through the centre of the wheel line. A different type of front wheel drive axle would have to be used.

 

As regards registration it should be possible to keep the original Beetle registration, as the floor pan engine, gearbox, axles and steering are to original specification. Altering to fourwheel drive may jepordise that depending on the amount of original components retained.

 

Nothing to stop the owner buying a private plate to make the vehicle appear older than the original beetle of course, but then the intention doesn't seem to be to pass the vehicle off as geunine.

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Really super job, Norman.

 

Any idea of how much you could sell one of these superb replica "Schwummwagens" for? I think that there is a definite market for a replica Schwimmer out there.

 

A 4-wheel drive version is, off course, possible to build, but the cost would be prohibitive.

 

I think that this, 2WD, replica Schwimmer will be really good off-road, due to its relative low weight.

 

Keep up the good work,

 

As always

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Just a further thought on the 4WD thing (although I'll grant you it may be a bit late!) - the 2nd gen VW campers came in 4x4, as did Mk2 Golfs. Both I believe were called "Synchro".

 

TBH if you stick some off-road tyres on it (BFG All Terrain are an excellent all rounder) it shouldn't have too much trouble.

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Some excellent and very useful comments . Thank you very much to all those that have, and continue to contribute.

 

This is regarded as a prototype, a feasability study I guess. Second generation Shcrapwagens may well have four wheel drive. I figured I have enough issues without getting bogged down with that............slowly gently catchee monkey!

 

On another note, I took advice from the forum, and contacted Vladimir at Lehar, he did send me a price on some parts, but since I confirmed I'd like to buy them - I havn't heard from him ? ? ? has anyone had emails from Vladimir in the past few days ?

 

Regards Mark.

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Hello Mark

 

I have been dealing with Vladimir quite a bit recently, He is very good and honest BUT............. very slow on replying to E mails so dont worry he will get back to you.

 

The other day it took 2 weeks to get a reply and my parts i ordered arrived before he replied to my mail! excellent service.

 

Christian

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A genuine, part restored 166 surfaced in Germany and has been offered for sale - It was (in my opinion) a lot of money, By the time I figured I would make an offer and see what happened, it was sold.

 

Here are the pictures of it, and for a bit of fun, some pictures for comparison of the replica that I am building.

80514668.jpg

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That last picture, of the captured 166 was taken in 1944 at a USAAF airfield in Italy. The picture illustrates just how small and unlike the 166 wheels my 4 studs are.

I have bought some pre'66 drums with wide 5 studs, and intend to spend next week trying to get them on the 69 axle, but the wheel bearings are all different sizes. This is getting to be a real challenge !

 

Regards Mark.

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