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Found 6 results

  1. Hello All Does any one know if there is a maintenance manual for this type of generator, my FFR Landrover is sounding like it is in pain as the generator could do with some grease on its bearings, but can't see anything that allows that to happen Any help, greatfully received Steve
  2. Hi, My 110 has a No.16 Mk.1 Generator, said to provide 28V, 90A. I've fitted two Banner AGM batteries, which like to be charged at 14.8V each, AGM's require a higher voltage compared to Lead Acid. [i'm assuming that I can just divide the 28V by 2 to get the voltage that each individual battery is charged with, not sure if that's correct] I see a few options and possible problems.. Can I modify the generator so it will output a higher voltage? But 24V equipment might be put on a higher strain by this perhaps, or does the battery in the circuit smooth this voltage difference out? I was thinking about an LDO between generator and battery, but don't think they come in versions that can handle a 100A. Perhaps any other idea's or input? Thanks, Sjoerd
  3. Hi, Can anybody help identify this Noise Attenuated Generator ? It's quite recent, manufactured in 1985, and has a Conventry Climax engine powering it. I spotted it in January when on hunting expedition for an Eager Beaver and ended up picking it up from near Glastonbury earlier this month. Keen to understand more about it's history - could it have been Medical use ? Hope to have it running soon !! Thanks David
  4. Charging problem ? Gentlemen, your wise counsel is sought (again) on how to proceed with a problem that surfaced yesterday.... Issue In A Nutshell 1. Battery did not have enough charge to turn truck over. Background facts 2. New 6v battery purchased by previous owner on 23 Jun 2012 and used a couple of times to do a few miles prior to sale. 3. I obtained the vehicle end of July. I reckon I have done approximately 300 miles since then, and 20 to 25 engine starts. 4. Amp meter never shows any charge, and never moves from the 0 position unless the headlights are turned on, at which point it shows a drain on the system. I have not done any driving with the lights on. 5. Truck has always started without a problem in the short time I have had it. Thoughts Prior To Yesterday. 6. Given that the truck had been starting fine, I'm thinking that the Amp meter might have a problem. What Happened Yesterday 7. Tried to start the truck. Classic low battery symptoms, engine turnover a couple of times slowly, before the battery became exhausted. 5.1 tons of immobile truck stuck on the drive, and one disappointed young son who was looking forward to a trip out. Was tempted to put battery on charge, but then remembered I have home start with Adrian Flux Recovery, so a few hours later I called them out. 8. On arrival the mechanic tested the battery and found it was showing 6v. 8. Mechanic suggested I try starting the truck, and low and behold, it turned over as normal and fired up without any problem. 9. Mechanic checked over the earthing straps and couldn't see anything amiss. 10. Mechanic on testing the generator could not find any output... How To Proceed ? I don't understand how the battery which appeared exhausted, can without assistance have recovered enough charge turn some four hours later to start the truck as if nothing had happened. I referred to the manual, which suggests removing the cover band. This I did. There was almost no dust, and the brushes as far as I can see look okay. - - - - Do I: a) Pretend nothing happened ? (the do nothing option) b) Take the Generator off and send it to a specialist ? c) Do something else ? If so what ? Your thoughts would be much appreciated Cheers Vulture
  5. I've been having some issues with charging on my 1983 24v landrover 109. I've been reading up on this thanks to Clives Elliott's 'All Charged Up' series of articles, but I thought I'd ask for a bit of help/feedback. Here's the situation. We're dealing with a Generator No 10. Mk3 and a Generator Panel No.9 Mk.4 (90 amp). The system looks to be in fairly original condition with no modificatons. There is no radio equipment, only the 2 vehicle batteries. A couple of weeks ago the charge warning light started to flicker into life and before long, was permanently beaming brightly at me. I can vouch for the fact that what the little light is trying to tell me is indeed true; the batteries are definately not charging. I did some resistance checks over the weekend during which I took the belts and cables off the alternator and unplugged the generator panel and shunt. As is the way with these things, something magically sorted itself for about 10 minutes, before the little light started to flicker again and we were back where we started. Interestingly, the light became brighter whilst the engine was being revved, which fueled my suspicion that the belts might be the issue, but a new set of belts have since proved this to be wrong. So the results of the tests... 1) Voltage at Inspection light sockets: No rise in voltage at inspection light sockets when running the engine. The good news here, however, is that there is no drop in battery charge over a couple of days, so I'm not losing charge unneccesarily. Not really related to the issue in hand, but nice to know. 2) Alternator diode tests (using a digital multimeter): 2a) +ve prod to W & -ve prod to X Resistance = 66,000 Ohms (and rising...?) Diode voltage drop = .8v 2b) +ve prod to X & +ve prod to W Resistance = 70,000 Ohms (and rising...?) Diode voltage drop = No Circuit Theoretically the resistance measurements in 2a should be low. I suspect the high resistance reading is due to the multimeter mode not having enough voltage to get past the diode when it is set to measure resistance, as explained in Clive's 'All charged up - Part 4'. The voltage drop was measured in the mulitmeter's diode test mode and leads me to believe that the diodes are probably working ok. Correct me if I'm wrong! 3) Resistance in field winding: The readings from this are a bit more difficult to interpret as they varied wildly. Readings were anything from about 20 ohms up to about 300 ohms, with a few cases of 'no circuit' in between. I'm not sure if this is due to the use of a digital multimeter, or whether the brushes could be cause of the problem? 4) Alternator test readings taken at generator panel: Readings were similar to those taken in item 2) which suggests that the cable is probably ok. 5) Continuity tests between generator panel plug and inside of shunt. All continuity tests ok. Suggests that cable is ok. Thats as far as I've got. It seems that the brushes might be suspect, but my question is how stable should the field winding resistance be? So, where do I go next? It seems that more reading up is required! Regards, Malcolm Walker Cardiff
  6. Hi, I wondered if you may be able to help me with some information. I have a 1948 Fowler Diesel engine connected to a generator which is a: Mawdsley Ltd Lister 88372 Alternator number 4592 15 KVA 230 volts Excitor = 13.7 7 amp Manufactured 1945 Everything was up and running but the control box was damaged somehow and now it is putting out no power. Would it be possible obtain wiring diagrams from anywhere for this or would you know anyone that could get it working for me, I am in the Surrey area. Regards Fred
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