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  1. Finally got fed up with my Jeep not starting so I converted it to 12 volts. I’m sure somebody has already explained how easy it is but I thought I would jot down a few lines on how I did mine. I totally rebuilt my jeep from the chassis up about 4 years and wanted to stick to 6 volt but a couple of years later the battery wasn’t quite good enough to start it and I have been forever having to use the starting handle for the last 18 months. I tried everything I knew to stick with 6 volts and make it work reliably but basically I don’t drive it enough and you can’t seem to buy a good 6 volt battery these days so I took the plunge and brought myself into the modern world. The conversion to 12 volts was easy and only cost me about £150 including a decent battery. Lots of people I spoke to have had different ideas but the following worked for me. 1. Regulator. I bought an old style Lucas 12 v regulator to fit a Land Rover (also used for many other older Morris Minors, Austins, etc.). I used the type with screw in connections so I could just cut off the existing larger ring connectors and strip the wires bear but you could use the one with Lucar connectors just as easily. This was £25 new and I fitted it in place of the original, some people I have spoken to have stripped the insides of the old one and fitted this type inside as its about half the size so it looks original but I couldn’t bring myself to do this as my 6v regulator was brand new when I rebuilt the jeep and will live it not looking perfect. 2. Connect as follows: The Old Regulator has Field, Arm & Bat connectors with an earth to the case. The new Regulator has E, D, F, A, A1. a. Field wire (Green wire from the small connector on the Dynamo, which is the one nearest the Regulator). Connect to F. b. Arm wire (red/white lead with larger connector on the Dynamo, which is the one nearest the block). Connect to D. c. Bat wire (Red/White lead which goes to under the dash) Connect to A. d. Earth wire from the Dynamo. Connect to E. I also ran a wire from an earth on the chassis to E as well as you can’t have too many earths !! e. A1 is spare which you could use for any other non ignition switched feeds you need if you wished. 3. Dynamo, nothing needed here as it will push out as many volts as you need and is of course controlled by the Regulator. I did actually have a problem as it didn’t charge when I started it on 12 volts. I took it into Autoelectrical in Glastonbury who sorted it, it turned out to be an earthing fault. I think this was due to me cleaning the brushes and when I put them back in I managed to mis-locate the brush wires and cause an earthing problem (I should have left well alone !!). 4. Ignition. Replace the ignition coil with a 12v one, cost £10. I had a Jolly Engineering electronic ignition fitted which was an earlier failed attempt to solve the 6v starting problem, I had to remove this and go back to the original points as it is wired for 6 volts and would have blown if I’d used it on 12v. Good old fashioned points work well on 12 volts so no need to change. 5. Headlights, this nearly caused me a problem as 12v 5 ¾ sealed beam units (5731) are no longer available. However Autoelectrical had some Halogen bulb conversion units for £35 a pair which fit the headlamps bowls once you slightly bend the three mounting tabs through 45 degrees on the lamps so they fit nicely. Connectors are of course the same so no re-wiring just blank off the side light hole in the lenses. The bonus is halogen lamps instead of 6v candles. 6. Front lights. I have four standard marker lamps on the front, 2 as sidelights on the tops of the wings (I have the Jeep in British markings, the Brits fitted them here) and two in the usual places in the grille as indicators with amber lenses in. These were straight 12v bulb replacements. 7. Rear Lights. When I rebuilt the Jeep it removed the black outs from the lower rectangles and fitted amber lenses and used them as indicators. I removed the sealed lenses/bulbs and cut the bulb ends off and stuck the lenses into the mounting ring with clear sealer (as the bulb ends hold the lenses in place normally but as you just cut them off they will be loose). Standard 380 & 382 bulbs then fit into the holders. 8. Dash lights, I had fitted 12v ones on rebuild anyway but a straight replacement. 9. Flasher Unit. Straight replace with a 12v unit. I did have a problem I think caused by the bulbs being low wattage which meant they didn’t trigger the unit. When I plugged in a trailer board to the trailer socket I have fitted hidden under the rear cross member the extra bulb and wattage caused the unit to work fine, a heavy duty flasher unit cured this. 10. Battery. I found a black cased heavy duty battery for £70, part number 030 fits the tray perfectly and is the largest one you can get in there but other cheaper sizes are available just a bit smaller. Job done, now starts instantly, lights are great and I don’t have to worry about trailer lights. No other changes are needed, the wiring is fine, 6v actually needs double the ampage of 12v so is more than heavy enough if in good condition. I’ve been told that the fuel gauge will read wrong unless you fit a resister but I have to say I have never known a Jeep fuel gauge be right in any case !! The starter is fine unless you keep it turning over for too long but it now starts after about a second so should be fine, apparently you can get a better starter bendix spring if it plays up. Hope that is useful, its certainly made a very big difference starting both hot and cold. Some pictures below for those interested.
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