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peter75

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Posts posted by peter75


  1. I have cleaned up the last of the suspension springs. I still have 4 ball ends to do. I have put some of the track guide plates into the molasses to clean next.

    I have striped the truck gear leaver of the parts I need and cleaned and primed them, I managed to save the gear lever nob by using a canvas filter strap to undo it. 

    I have finished stripping the gearbox and although there is more wear than I would like there are no major problems, the bearings look and feel good. I have decided to rebuild it with new clutch released bushes and shaft as it won't be doing lots of miles under heavy loads.

    Peter.

     

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  2. Thursday night I popped over to Alastair's to get some measurements and borrow his body support brackets. I have ordered some metal ready to make them. While I was a Alastair's we offered a section of body up to his chassis. 

    I have also found a gear leaver that I have been looking for, for over a week as I will need the reverse lock and securing cap parts. It is pictured next to the Loyd gear lever that came with the project.

    Peter.

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  3. Thanks Andrew. I have never seen a U,J, with a hole through the centre.

    I followed Andrew's instructions and had the U,J, off in about 5 minutes, I then removed the rubber mounting plate off the back of the gearbox. Looking at the pictures the rear bearing looks to be made in Germany.

    Peter.

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  4. I have been sorting through parts to see what I need. One unknown was the gearbox so I have split it from the engine and have started pulling it apart. First thoughts are there is a lot of play on the clutch release shaft and there is a ridge on the shaft it's self. The first, second gear and top gear which slide have a fair amount of wear and some damage. What I can see of the bottom gear cluster/ shaft look's to be good. The bearings seem to turn smoothly. The gearbox top seems to be the same as a bren gun carrier with the 2 lugs on the opposite side to a standard truck top although one lug has been cut down slightly. Next I need to figure out how to remove the U,J, as the last ford gearbox didn't have one.

    Peter.

     

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  5. Hi Tadeo.

    The number should be stamped on the outside face of the chassis between the step brackets, can't remember which side. Also there should be a plate in the cab. If it had a army rebuild post-war there should be a plate between the fuel tank and the rear axle on the left side of the chassis. 

    I cleaned all my 44 OYD chassis with an angle grinder with wire brush and never found any number also I have a 43? Chassis which I cleaned around the step brackets and have not found a number.

    Peter.


  6. I need a set of 6 exhaust stubs for the flathead ford V8 in my Loyd carrier they are left and right handed. Good price paid as I will have to get set cast and machined otherwise which won't be cheep😞  Could also do with a silencer box as pattern to get a pair made.

    Peter.

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  7. Thanks Tim.

    Would this be the correct reel for the 880* twisted cable? I am assuming that 880 is yards? I do know that the 220* twisted cable is on an ACL N,o,2 (apparatus, cable laying N,o2. see pictures with wrong cable!) and on this list (4.2" mortar platoon)  is used with the telephone L,S, N,o,2 gun control.

    Dose anyone know the correct markings for the reels if I repaint them?

    Peter.

     

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  8. Can anyone tell me which cable drum/reels are correct for British ww2. I have been looking at some equipment lists that list,

    Cable drum 880* twisted cable.

    Cable drum 440* single cable.

     Cable drum 220* twisted cable.

    I do have a reel that I was given but I have never been shore if it is wartime or post-war.

    Peter.

     

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  9. Another small part repaired. This bar fits between the uprights of the tow hitch and is an odd size C section (if anyone has any 30" lengths of 2 1/2" by 1" C section for sale could you let me know) Alastair wanted to keep as much of the original metal as possible as well as some of the range damage. I had previously straightened the bar with heat and a press so I just had to cut back to good metal and weld in new. Alastair forgot to give me the other end piece so he will weld that on also there are 2 piece to weld on in the middle which Alistair didn't have details for at the time. 

    Peter.

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  10. With the temperature picking up a bit, Sunday I had a look to see what was soaking in molasses. I pulled out 4 inner springs which I cleaned up and primed also I found the rear brake back plates which I also pulled out, the worst one I cleaned and primed while I thought I would try to repair the better one. These had come from Alastair and have had the edge which was paper thin cut off to release the brake drums. The plan was to cut the centre out and weld it into a back plate with a good rim. After a lot of thought I made a simple jig to mark the cuts on both back plates using a block of wood with 4 nails and a hole for a pencil. Once marked I cut them out with a grinder clamped the 2 parts together and stick welded them together about a 1 1/2" at a time on 4 points and on both sides trying not to get to much heat in to it. There is still an area of corrosion  to sort out on the centre.

    Peter.

     

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  11. 4 minutes ago, ackack said:

    Time is running out on these trailers. If there are no buyers soon they will have to go for scrap as the site must be cleared!!!

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    Where are the trailers located?

    Would be useful to move the carrier.

    Peter.


  12. I have a couple questions about my 10cwt GS trailer,

    There is a small bracket on the under side of the drawbar just behind the stand, should there be one each side and is this the anchor point for the handbrake return springs? Dose anyone have pictures and measurements?

    On the back right corner post there is a piece of angle iron that's been cut off, is this the original mounting point of the T plate?

    Peter.

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