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About Muddywheels

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  1. Thanks everyone for the input on this- very helpful as always. Have gone with a replacement ZNHPO; I can substitute the jets with the ones on my current carb if necessary-these are fine and clean as a whistle. Should at least be able to narrow down the options now.
  2. Thanks- yes, saw that. Been through most of the options, but the only one I haven't tried is swopping over for a known good carb. Can't find a spare Dingo one, but I could buy a Champ one. Just wanted some info first if possible, before I buy one .
  3. Hi- anyone any information on fitting a Champ carb (Solex 40 WNHEO) in a Dingo? Thought I'd solved my previous starting problems, but..... I know Dingo carbs were sometimes fitted in a Champ, so it would seem to make sense that the reverse is also possible- just wondered if there were any fixing/ linkage differences. thanks.
  4. Ok- an update in case anyone wants to know. Seems to be starting well now; have started it every day without a problem. The only change I've made is to add to the gasket under the fuel pump ( now 3mm) total. So I'll have to say that must have sorted it- the mysteries of the Solex carb. Hope this may be of use to someone else,; and thanks to everyone for taking the time to post their comments.
  5. Hi Mike- haven't tried that, but I will do. Have to say it started again tonight, but the slightest pressure on the accelerator threatened to stall it, until it warmed up. I don't have a known good accelerator to trial ( and thus rule in/ out) I'm looking ..... cheers
  6. Hi Trevor- on the flat.Shimmed out the fuel pump with another gasket to reduce the fuel pressure slightly this evening- started, and ran fine. Bet it will be back to square one tomorrow, but let's see. Living in hope......
  7. Thanks for the input- much appreciated. The float is the right way up ( did have a pinhole in it but mended and all floating ok) float arm is free- and is the correct way up. The float arm spindle moves freely. Pushing the needle valve down with a cocktail stick, does get the float arm to move up and down, so the float chamber is full of fuel and operating correctly to shut off fuel. I'd agree that it would seem obvious that the needle valve is at fault, but it really does move completely freely- there's no way it is physically sticking.Pumping the priming lever doesn't help- a few turns of the starter motor gets all the fuel pumped as far as it will go- and the priming lever is completely slack. ( fuel pump also stripped down and all new seals/ diaphragm) Suggestion of a problem with the carb starting unit is a good one; but the whole thing has been stripped apart, with all new seals, so not sure what else I could do to this. Overall I must have spent 20 or 30 hours stripping out and replacing the carb at least 5 times and running through every possibility( including electrical)I can think of. It's the unpredictable nature that's so frustrating . At least if it ran badly as well, once it did start; I'd have more of a clue. I'd rather it be running with a more modern carb; rather than looking good ( and getting dusty) in the garage. Any ideas/ recommendations on that score? cheers, Alastair.
  8. Hi- I know Dingo carburetors have been the subject of a recent ( very useful) thread. I wonder if anyone could help with this ? Once my Dingo is running, it runs very well. Idles happily, pulls well up hills- no excessive smoke and the plugs aren't fouling.But- starting it is a complete lottery. If it does start, it will run perfectly. But if it won't start, the only way to get it going is to unscrew the feed to the carb, and stick a cocktail stick down the needle valve aperture. Bouncing the float up and down on the float arm a few times usually then allows it to start. Not a stuck needle valve- it's got a brand new one, and both this ( and the old one) move as freely as it's possible to move. Entire carb stripped down, ultrasonically cleaned and new seals throughout. Plenty of fuel (pressure reduced by adding an extra gasket under the pump,as suggested by Singe) Clean as a whistle fuel lines, right back to the ( reclined) tank. Once it starts, and going on a long run- stopping and starting again a few times is no problem. But run it for 10 minutes or so, and then leave it until the next day- back to the original problem. Any suggestions very gladly received - including recommendations for a suitable modern replacement carb, if that's what it takes. thanks- Alastair.
  9. Hi- I noticed last week that Soldier of fortune have just started selling them: www.sofmilitary.co.uk. their code BE1270
  10. Hi everyone. I'm Alastair, living near Oldham. I've had Landy's for some time, but added a Champ a few years ago. And more recently just bought a Dingo. Great vehicle-loving taking it off road; and I'm hoping to be running it regularly- when I finally sort the Carb problems out. Probably more of that in future posts and pleas for help! In the meantime- thanks for adding me to the HMVF members.
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