steelman

I have enjoyed watching the progress on this vehicle. A couple of days ago you were bending some parts using a press. I actually own a steel fabrication shop where we regularly bend material from 0.024 inch thick to over 1 inch thick. General rules say the bottom die opening should be at least 8x the material thickness until you go over 1/2" thick, where rule of thumb is 10x the material thickness. For 90 degree bends, the bottom die is typically 82 degrees. If you are air bending, this works quite well, and the bend radius of the part follows what we refer to as its natural radius, usually 1x to 2x the thickness. We often need tighter bend radii like you did, and we use a narrower opening than 8x thickness, and "bottom bend", or coin the part. Required tonnage goes up exponentially, but the desired tight radius is achieved. When coining, the part does over bend like you described, but if you go further, it begins to open up as it gets closer to bottom. Most steel has about 2 degrees of springback, so by adjusting depth of bend, you can make very sharp bends. Be careful coining, as you can split the die, and it usually happens quickly and rather dramatically. I can forward a chart showing tonnage per foot of bend required vs. Thickness vs. Die opening if it would help you in the future. From what I have observed on this site, you fellows are doing some excellent work using tools you have available. My hat is off to you, and thank you for the progress photos. Steelman, in the "colonies".

Regarding the "Thackeray washer", have you considered Belleville disc springs or "wave washers" ? These are readily available here, and a company called McMaster-Carr sells these in small quantaties. A carbon steel wave washer with an inside diameter of 0.650" and outside diameter of 0.855" are available in a package of twenty five (25) for $11.37 usd. They have a height of 0.060". It is their part #9714K36. They are also available in stainless steel. I would be glad to help if necessary. Carey

Why not bend a piece of pipe, or a piece of stainless steel muffler pipe into the desired shape, cut the appropriate size flange , and weld in another piece of pipe at the required point, I would save the original pipe rather than modify it. You could tig weld them together, grind out the welds, and I think it would look like it was made that way. I have enjoyed your progress, and I am always amazed at the high level of craftsmanship exhibited by everyone on this site! Carey

Mike, I am embarassed. I didn't take it apart because I wasn't ready for it yet. Thank you again. If I find one to copy, you need one also ? I sent you an email regarding the crank for you. Carey

Tim, yes, I believe it is the same as the FWD pintles. Mike in New Zealand was kind enough to make me a casting of the housing. I just need to find the hook and spring (or measure one so I can replicate it). I bought one on ebay last year, and when the package arrived, it was a box of sandwich wrapping paper, no pintle hook. I complained, and the seller refunded my money without any explaination. I have not seen one anywhere before or since. Carey

I thought I would share a picture of the WW1 Liberty searchlight I bought last week on ebay. It is a Solar WT67, and is in excellent condition. I have been looking for about 18 months without sucess, and then one popped up, I was the only bidder. I only need a period pintle hook and a fuel transfer pump, and I will have all of the parts I need for my restoration. I would make a reproduction of these if I could find one to copy.

Thank you. I look forward to any information you can provide. Steelman

What tonnage is the press? Is this an up acting press? I assume putting new tires on is the reverse. Do you have rubber or urethane put on the rings, and what type of cost do you find for doing this? Steelman

Tim, All four wheels are wood spoke, and in pretty good condition. The lean you notice is due to several things. When I took the picture, we had just gotten it home (July 2014). The bottom of the firewall has a bit of decay that needs to be repaired, as well as the attachment points. I haven't checked the arch of the springs to see if that needs work. I did a quick review of what I have and I have concentrated on information and parts retrieval. I acquired the remnants of another Liberty from California last summer. I believe it is an aviation model. The running gear is complete, except no front wheels and no rear axle/wheels. Would love to find them so we could at least display it. I noted some pictures from Nevada(?) of one without running gear, but had the hood and wheels. Do you know if it might be available? I am attaching pictures of this truck for all to see. Carey Leitch

I am absolutely amazed at the quality of the work folks perform and report on this site. You are true craftsmen. I am an Engineer and own a steel fabrication shop here in the US. We have mag drills, cnc drills, hydraulic punches and just about anything we need to do our work accurately and quickly. Occasionally, we have found it necessary to use a thick plate drilled to the size hole we wish to make, clamped it to the object we wish to drill, and use a hss rota broach bit with a handheld drill to put the hole in steel that couldn't be done otherwise. The thick plate serves as a guide to steady the bit from wobbling. I agree carbide may Crack and shatter unless held perfectly still, where as hss bits are more forgiving. Having said this, my hat is off to you for a job well done!

I also wanted to share a few pictures of my Mack built WW1 searchlight/antiaircraft gun trailer. I bought this in 1976 about 7 miles from home from a farmer who tried to use it as a hay wagon. It was too heavy, so he abandoned it. His son was the president of the bank I used, and he told me to come look at it. His father had bought it as war surplus in the 1920's. I took it home, and was unable to find out much about it until last year. I have removed the two main spars running the length, and fabricated new ones. I am trying to learn to hot rivet these back on (it uses 5/8" diameter rivets). I took it to the Antique Truck Club of America last June in Macungie, Pa. (where the Mack assembly plant and museum are located), and the curator, Don Schumaker was most generous with information and factory photos from 1917/18. Carey Leitch (aka steelman)

A couple of pictures of my Liberty after we got it home in July 2014. I had taken the box off the back (before we left Michigan), and shortened up the frame back to the original length. They had welded channels to the end of the frame, and moved the rear axle back, adding an additional driveshaft. The bolt holes (rivet holes) were still there, so it was easy. I managed to get the engine started, and have been gathering information and parts so we can start the restoration process. Noticed right off the bat the transmission was wrong, and it had been poorly put in. I was able to find a Liberty that had been converted to a fire truck after the war, and it had no engine and was simply a static display. They let me have the transmission in return for painting their truck. I am in the process of working on the transmission now. The top cover had rusted out, and it was full of water, but the oil saved most of the gears, very little corrosion. New bearings, new shift shafts, cleaning and paint. Mike in New Zealand has been very generous in sending castings for some parts I did not have. Adrian allowed me to visit him and take numerous measurements I needed. I hope to have it running this summer. Will post more pictures soon.

Tim, sorry for the long delay. I forgot my password, and got busy at work. We were able to remove the body on the Liberty and leave it there to be burned. It was not period and was made of particle board (sawdust and chips) painted OD green. I was also given some extra parts (adlake sidelights, an acetylene MC bottle, NOS grab handles and hood latches, various other parts, and a complete WW1 uniform (USA) the owner had been saving. The vehicle was in remarkable shape, and the front fenders and steering wheel had been restored. Quite an adventure coming home (axle bearings on the trailer failed), but we made it. I have since gotten the engine started, removed the extra pieces that had extended the frame, moved the rear axle to its original position, found a correct transmission for it (the tranny in it was not original and was poorly installed), and collected volumes of information. Met a couple of others who are restoring Liberty's, and took mine last year to the American Truck Historical Society meet in York, Pa. Blaster Mike from New Zealand and Adrian Wingate from here in Virginia have been most helpful. The Mack searchlight trailer I have owned since 1976, but didn't know what it was until last year! The Mack museum, and Don Schumaker in particular, have been most helpful. I am restoring that also, and am learning how to replace 5/8" hot rivets, as we are replacing a couple of beams that are extensively corroded. I will try to post some pictures soon, when I figure out how. I am looking for some odds and ends for my restoration which I hope to post. I have a partial copy of the body drawings, and would like to purchase a copy including your brother's sketches of the miscellaneous parts. My email, if anyone is interested, is caricoinc@verizon.net. Carey Leitch, Fredericksburg, Virginia, USA

Hello everyone, from Fredericksburg, Virginia in the USA. I have an interest in early trucks, especially World War 1. Thank you, Steelman