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attleej last won the day on November 8 2019

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  1. attleej

    Tool hunt

    Dear All, I was tempted to sanctimoniously boast that I did not have an adjustable spanner in my main workshop. I might have one in the Landrover's tool box. I do have one on the shadow board at home in the garage. I have to confess to using it yesterday but, in my defence, it was to hold the fuel rail still on the Meteor M120 engine AND it was 20mm square section. I hope that I can be forgiven! John
  2. I thought that I was quite handy! John
  3. I agree that The worst you can do is cross thread especially this size. That is why I think that what is needed is a special die holder that is machined to 'pick up' on what I hope is the machined bore. Thus the die would be held perfectly square and would be much less ;likely to go cross threaded. There would also be no question of handles. It would have a square or hex drive. John
  4. Simon, Good news about the die. Is the bore machined? If it is, it might be possible to make a special die holder that picks up on the machined bore. In my experience, it is very difficult to start a die in such circumstances without it going off course and cutting a new thread.. John
  5. Simon, Welcome back! Is the ID nicely machined or 'as cast' and is the item made of aluminium alloy? Unfortunately it looks as if it will be some time before I will be able to do any machining. John
  6. Dear Kyle, Is the engine Rolls B60 or B80? If it is, it looks like a bog standard unit which should not be hard to acquire or repair. Clive will be able to tell you the correct resistance. There will already be threads on this forum about it. It should be an easy problem to fix! John
  7. I forgot to look yesterday. I will set my phone alarm to remind me. Blocking the hole is the easy bit if you want to do it. Andy is right and that is my concern. If there is a shaft seal between the pump and the motor, and it is leaking blocking the hole is merely a bodge and will bite you later. John
  8. Richard, I don't know what others think but I don't think that it should be leaking from there. I will check some other pumps tomorrow and refresh my memory. John
  9. I am not surprised Andy has not made one. I have just read it, but it reminded me why we call the Tels Techs "wobbly Heads"! John
  10. I agree that the clansman is not very loud but I think that it works. I had a problem trying to link a commercial VHF radio (a Kenwood TK 762) into the clansman network. As Andy suggested it is the PTT signal that is the problem. I never really understood how it worked so I was not able to emulate it. I would really like to be able to link a commercial radio into the Conq and Cent's Clansman system. If anyone knows how to do it that would be very interesting.
  11. Richard, Can you be clearer where the leak / hole is? Perhaps a Pic. John
  12. It look as if it has over-run bakes on the front. Since it weighs 1.3 tonnes, you would get 2.2 tones payload. at 3.5 tonnes gross with over-run brakes all round. I don't know if the over-run bakes automatically down plates it for civilian use at 3.5 tonnes. John
  13. Dave, You do not say what braking system the trailer has. However, the maximum gross weight for a trailer with over-run brakes is 3.5 tonnes so that means the trailer cannot have over-run brakes. The Eager Beaver does not have air brakes or any such connections. I don't recall it having servo brakes either. I think that a trailer of that age over 3.5 tons would require plating and testing. Perhaps the trailer only has a hand brake. If you fitted suitable brakes for the weight of the trailer there might be an issue with the rating of the tyres. On one hand it looks legally like a 'works truck or trailer' that does not go far on public roads. On the other hand, it does have road going lights. Interesting! John
  14. Not quite! The heads are only removed from the block if essential, say to change a liner. I don't know anything about the Packard Merlin engines. I think that there are two reasons why RR went this way. First, the EMER says that the block assembly should be pressure tested by immersion in a tank of hot water. This is done by applying air pressure to the cooling system. Obviously this is impractical if the block is already on the crank case! The second point is that the EMER says to assemble the rods onto the crankshaft before fitting it to the crank case. Presumably this is to allow checks to be made for no binding on the journals. In short, doing this way means that more inspection and checking can be done thus reducing risk. John
  15. Dear All, First Q is does anyone know how to edit the subject of this thread. It does not search on google as well as I would like. It might be better to call it "Meteor and Merlin"..... rather than "Meteor / Merlin". If a moderator can do it, just do it please. We have now started to fit the cylinder blocks onto the pistons and crankcase. I had to make four of the piston ring compressors in the photo. They are made from a scrap Merlin cylinder liner. In reality, it is a bracelet that can be threaded out from between the piston and the cylinder studs. The liner is cut into 6 segments and they are held together with a strip made from a paint tin. In order that it works properly the tapped holes in the liner and the tin strips were drilled precisely on the milling machine. The segments from the liner are, of course, precisely the right radius to suit the piston. The forks were used to lift the block into position over the engine turning rig and were left in position for convenience. The block is actually lowered by means of the M20 nut on top of the cross member. Under the nut is a cheap thrust washer to reduce the turning effort. It is not very convenient using a 30 mm ring spanner and I need to make some sort of hand wheel arrangement. The system works well except that the pistons are apt to tilt and jam in the bores, especially when the relevant crank is not at TDC or BDC. I am minded to make a packing piece that will spigot into the cylinder's bore in the crank case and the bottom of the piston. Thus the piston would not be able to tilt and would be dead in line with the cylinder bore. It might pay to tighten the piston ring compressors a bit more than hand tight. The device in the end of the crankshaft is a turning tool. Photos were by Andy A who helped me do it. John
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