Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Good

About attleej

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. attleej

    leyland drops gearbox problems

    Max, I have the SEME (REME) precis on the ZF box fitted to the DROPS. H L Smith Transmissions know all about them. We do need to know the nature of the problem!. In service, the have done pretty well.. John
  2. Oh and the Recovery equipment is probably Reynolds BOUGHTON. Slewing crane. 15 to 20 ton winch.
  3. Dear All, That is absolutely lovely. I would guess that it was built in early 1980's. It seems to have a "W" registration. Most of these were built for military export and I know that the Iraqi army had some. I saw some being built at Scammells in about 1983 or 84. Probably 14 litre Cummins engine, 15 speed fuller gear box, hopefully 16.5 ton Contractor axles and probably a GKN Kirkstall front drive axle. The LAD cab is a bit pokey which is why I made my Contractor's cab a crew cab. Where is it? John
  4. One more point. There are two ways of hurting a Roller. The first is to pull up at full power up a hill, then pull into a lay-by and stop the engine immediately. The other is to over rev the engine. Max RPM is 2200. I never let a 12 litre Roller or a14 litre Cummins exceed that. I would take all necessary steps (political code for war) to slow the engine down from 2300 RPM. On heavy haulage and tank transporters it is very easy for the load to push the vehicle and over rev the engine. John
  5. Jordi, I love a Roller! However, my Scammell Contractor has a Cummins in it and the price of spares is becoming extortionate. £230 for fan belt idler bearing. Fortunately I was able to rebuild it. On the Roller, if it has not got a turbo charger, it is a 220 (BHP). Data plate is on rear left hand side, just below air intake manifold. Points to watch are: Fuel lift pump but an FIP specialist should be able to fix if you cannot get a new one. If it gives you any sort of trouble, get it fixed because it will let you down big time one day. You might find it starts to struggle to pull fuel up from a nearly empty tank. Fan belts need to be a matched set with all the same numbers and from the same batch. Change the belts NOW but keep the old belts on the vehicle as a back up. A Roller will start easily without revving it up. Wait until oil pressure is up before increasing revs after initial start. RELIABILITY For preserved use a Roller should just keep going. PARTS John 1950 is right parts are not so easy as they are not being used commercially anymore. The engine used in the Scammell and Foden DROPS is a bit later and slightly different to a Mk III Eagle. The good news is that there is not much of an export market for a Roller so a whole engine should not be too dear. Fuel and oil filters should not be a problem. REPAIRABILITY I find the Roller easy to work on. ANTIFREEZE You must run it with at least 25%, or better 33%, antifreeze or you will damage the wet cylinder liners with cavitation corrosion. You can use a corrosion inhibitor in the summer of the tropics. For UK, use antifreeze! John
  6. Dear All, I have some tales of woe regarding the Meteor M120 engine fitted to the Conqueror ARV. I had concluded that the plugs were fouling with oil due to failure of the inlet valve oil seals which I have discussed in an earlier post. A problem has been to hold the inlet valve closed whilst the springs are compressed. Help from the Forum has been invaluable. It was decided to take the engine out of the hull for reasons of improved engineering hygiene. Once the special tool was made, changing the inlet valve oil seals was straight forward although I am not convinced that they were the problem going by their condition and position. The top of the valve stem only had about 4 thou wobble. The first big problem was that the camshaft was very badly pitted on some of its rubbing surfaces on the cams. This had taken out 17 rockers/ followers. The valve clearances had opened up to 35 thou. Not too much of a problem. I bought two new camshafts and the rockers came from a scrap MkIVB engine. Then I touched one of the cylinder head /block studs. It was loose! Worse still the stud was sheared. Apparently this is a common problem with the Merlins and Meteors. Ok so I needed to lift of the cylinder head block assy. To do this I made an engine turning frame and special lifting tool to lift the block dead square and vertical. I have made a special tool to drill out the sheared stud accurately. So some problems but still manageable. Then I felt the big end bearings. Unfortunately there was 10 thou in and down movement in the big ends and the mains have problems as well. Fortunately the crank looks OK. There does not appear to be any white metal on the shells! The pistons and liners are great as well. Another problem was that the sump was full of a horrible gelatinous gulutinous muck. This was despite having changed the oil some time ago. I started with the simple job of valve oils seals but now have the engine completely in bits! However, we could not keep running the engine with these known faults as it would certainly have led toa total failure in due course. I wonder whether when the oil sump got contaminated with E5 petrol, that allowed the white metal bearings on the crank to be attacked by the ethanol. SOME LESSONS & TIPS FOR CONQ / CENT The oil sumps needs to come out and be cleaned in case it is full of sludge. In service I expect that they would fit a new engine without cleaning the sump. This would only be done at base overhaul. If you take charge of a meteor, take off the rocker covers and check the condition of the cam shaft. It is the first component to start rusting and the consequences are serious. Check that the corner studs are not sheared. Just check the nuts are secure. Unfortunately the Conq is not fitted with an oil pressure gauge. If it had one, surely it would have revealed that all was not well with the bottom end. The good news is that I am confident that I can get the engine back into good condition. It will just be a little bit more involved than I thought! John
  7. Dear All, Even the E5 bio petrol caused serious problems with the REME museum's Conqueror ARV. I made up a fuel manifold to supply each of the 24 electronic fuel injectors. I used 15mm copper pipe and soft soldered on a compression fitting to supply each injector. In terms of fuel leaks it worked fine for some time. Then suddenly it was spewing petrol everywhere! The bio fuel had attacked the soft soldered joints. Even though the joints had plenty of cross sectional area of solder, they still failed. The new system that I have made has no soft soldered joints. This suggests that many vehicles will need a completely new fuel system with no soft soldered joints anywhere. I will shortly be posting tales of woe about Meteor tank engines and petrol contamination of the sump and the possible effect on the white metal of the crankshaft bearings. I suspect that the reason why Government has not moved faster to E10 is more to do with issues concerning the economics of supply and possible adverse effects there rather than the effect on old vehicles. I think that E10 will be ubiquitous in due course whatever problems it causes to older vehicles. The problems for our vehicles are manageable provided one is not too worries about originality. The real problems will be for those with later vehicles (especially cars) with sophisticated fuel systems which are not tolerant of E10. I expect that the response from classic car enthusiasts will reflect this. John
  8. My guess, and it is only a guess, is that it would have been supplied in Deep Bronze Green gloss. In the UK based TA we stayed DBG gloss and then at some time changed to IRR (Infra Red Reflecting) with non IRR black disruption camo. I don't know what rules BAOR adhered to. At some point, and I can't remember when, in UK we stopped using the lovely 'Div Signs' and went for something much more discrete. For 240 Sqn in Barnet it was "Lond 225". When I started at Barnet in about 1975 we had two div signs. One was the yellow and blue RCT sign with "240 Tk Tptr Sqn" on the top. The other was the London District sign which was a dagger and a castle. I don't know whether they did the same in BAOR. If they did, it would have had a REME div sign with something like "38 Engr Wksp" on the top. The other sign would indicate which formation, ie division the unit belonged to. The round yellow bridge classification plate would probably be 21, I am sure that other will be able to help and correct any errors on my part. John
  9. Sam, Give us a clue! what is the vehicle? John
  10. Dear All, I think that the military B series starter motor has a thermal cut out inside it.. If it cuts out prematurely it may give the symptoms described. It gave me a lot of problems with my Leyland Martian recovery in the TA. Fortunately it was dead easy to start on the handle which I had to do frequently. It was only later that I learnt about the thermal cut out. In my opinion, a thermal cut out on a military vehicle is criminal. Firstly, because it could fail or cut out prematurely when the engine would in fact start straight away if the starter would only work. Secondly, in emergency it may be desirable to move the vehicle just a few feet using the starter even at the risk, and only a risk, of burning out the starter. Andy is right. there is nothing special about these starters. A competent, old school, vehicle electrician / engineer should easily be able to fix any problems. It should be still be possible to pick up a s/h but serviceable 24 civvy starter for spare parts. I would definitely ask for the thermal cut out to be disabled. John
  11. attleej

    Thornycroft Big Ben

    Dear All, Since the engine is fed by an oil bath air filter it may still be quite good. It would use quite a lot of petrol to wear it out! Does it still turn over easily? Has it got six even compressions? I would only give up on it if it has been run for a while and still does not have even compressions My comment is that large petrol engines can benefit hugely from retro fitting electronic fuel injection (EFI) and there are several 'DIY' systems available now. I am working on a system for the REME museum's Conqueror ARV. The reduction in fuel consumption is noticeable between the Conqueror and the Centurion. I hope to be able to report to the forum results from the latest iteration. The carburettor system on a big engine is very crude. However, the designer will have been very careful to ensure that the engine always runs a little bit rich in order to eliminate the risk of burning out the pistons. EFI can ensure that the mixture is always correct and optimal. EFI normally has Cranking Enrichment, After Start Enrichment, and Cold Start enrichment so starting and cold running is much better. The Meteor in the Conqueror always starts directly after about three revolutions if it is going to start at all. It is also possible to retrofit EFI quite discretely. Once I have perfected the system for the Conqueror I will share all that I have learned on this and other forums. I will be very happy to share what I have found out and provide advice on a pro bono basis. John
  12. attleej


    Dear All, I have now got the engine out and at my workshop. I am now considering the using the compressed air trick to change the inlet valve oil seals (now in stock). The worry about the comp air trick is dropping the valve down the cylinder. With the engine out it is easy to see how I could lock the engine at TDC for the cylinder in question. In that position, I don't think that the valve could actually fall right out of the valve guide. I could also engineer a high reliability air supply. Does anyone know for sure if the valve would not be able to fall out if the piston was at TDC? John
  13. attleej

    JAGUAR STARTER, 12 / 24 V, One for Clive?

    Dear All, Thank you for your input it is much appreciated. The problem with the J60 24 volt starter is that it is an ordinary 4.2 litre XK engine and not a J60. I don't think that it is straight forward to fit the J60 starter. "Clive" is Field Marshall Clive Elliot our Chief Electrical Engineer. I am not too worried about the starter throw in solenoid as it will only be overcurrent for a moment until the starter starts turning the engine. In other words, it will not have time to overheat. The external starter sol / relay is already 24 Volts. The positive temp co-efficient of a steel resistor could be beneficial as if the resistance was selected by experimentation the current through the starter would be reduced if the steel resistor got hot. However, what I have done is to order (quite cheaply) 2 metres of 2 mm Manganin resistor wire. I need a resistance of between 0.12 and 0.04 ohms. By chance the resistance of 2 mm, 12 AWG Manganin wire is 0.04 ohms per foot. With a bit of experimentation I should be able stop 24 volts from sending the starter into orbit. I will let you know how I get on with it. John
  14. Dear All, The so called Jaguar J60 engine fitted to the Conqueror is really a 4.2 litre car engine with automatic gear-box. It has J60 ignition and inlet manifolds. I did not think it would be easy to fit the FV 24 volt starter (it is not) so I left it on 12 Volt starting and used the 12 Volt system for the main engine EFI system. I found the usual dual voltage problems! Therefore the tank will now be all 24 volt. I would like to keep the 12Volt starter, use 24 Volts but keep the current down by means of a very heavy duty resistor. I could either use some proper heavy gauge resistance wire or use steel by cutting out a 'tortuous path' in a sheet of 1.5 mm steel. Alternatively I could try just using another starter motor field wing in circuit. Probably one for Clive to advise on! Does anyone have a figure for the current going through a starter on an Jag engine? If so I could calculate the required length of 1.5 x 10 mm steel strip (equivalent of) to give the desired resistance. John
  15. attleej

    JAGUAR J60 CARB, cold start

    Dear Terry and Diana, Thank you for your help. All I have for an air filter is an after market gauze cone for a car. Thus probably not enough suction from the air filter. Since the engine runs for only short periods it is not worth fitting an oil bath. I could plumb it into one of the main engine air filters (and might do so) but that would not solve the suction problem. Does Diana know what material I should look for on Flea bay? It would be quite good to have some available for doing fuel pump diaphragms as well. John