Andrew Rowe

I have a set of cast parts for making the armoured roof for a Dingo, also I have done some plans for construction of the plates, etc. Pm if interested, Cheers Andrew.

Hi, I am trying to find a Centurion Tank tacho gauge as pictured, Pm me if you have any ideas where I could locate one, Thanks Andrew.

I am looking for a couple of CAV fuse box no.5, mainly the bases, PM if me if you have a spare, Thanks Andrew.

I will second that, I would think you could sell a couple of hundred Dingo tyres without too much effort.

The manual I was using is CVRT Electrical Systems dated June 1980, pages 19 and 25, section 8 " The battery indicator lamp: is 28 volts , 40 ma bulb, under normal conditions , only about 11 volts is dropped across its terminals. Consequently it lights at half brilliance and in so doing indicates that all is well with the battery circuits. " Cheers Andrew.

The glow on the distribution box light should be about 1/2 brilliance, when running ,and if you had reverse polarity, ie. connected batteries the wrong way around, it will glow full brilliance. I had nothing working on my Scorp. , like the volt gauge or warning ign. light would not go out, and you would think there was something wrong with the charging system. It turned out to be just old batteries that did not have the correct amps or power. Yet the vehicle started and ran great. I put some big gel batteries in and all the charging and electrical's started working! ( This was after spending 2 days testing every diode and circuit in all those black boxes!) So moral of the story is good batteries x 2 Cheers Andrew.

Medium Tank M4A2 , TM 9-731B , back couple of pages are detached , but are there , otherwise OK book ,PM if interested and make an offer, plus postage Cheers Andrew.

Service Instruction book for Churchill VII & VIII, pretty good condition overall, and seems quite detailed. PM if interested and make an offer, plus postage , Thanks Andrew.

I have a set of 350 links of new old stock Canadian track, and fits English carriers as well, (3") Pickup in the UK , PM and Make me an offer, Thanks Andrew.

I have a take out TN15, unknown condition, just missing brake callipers on the outside, GBP1K, I also have a spare rebuilt TN15 gearbox available, Negotiable on price, PM if interested. All freight to the UK included, pickup in the South , cheers Andrew.

I have a pair of Original British manufactured wartime stowage boxes for the M3 Stuart Tank. These were made for extra room as they have a checkout for the light, as can be seen of ones used in the Desert during the war. They are Left and Right hand, never been fitted, and have heaps of original patina. GBP375 for the pair, pickup in the South of UK. PM if interested. Cheers Andrew.

Phil, that looks like the rear communication box that goes just above the skirt at the rear, I think L/H outside. look after your heli-coils as you cannot usually tap them out as they will "pick up" and wreck the heli-coil, cheers Andrew.

With the correct paperwork through, the Valentine is ready for transport. Final water blasting and checking we loaded onto the flat rack. I had to extend the side of the rack , as they only come in at 2.2m wide, and we need at least 2.5m for the track to be properly supported. Once this was achieved I brought in my 40ton crane for the lift. After lifting and positioning it a few times to get the correct location on the rack, we were in the final stages of lowering and were only a couple of inches off the deck, when how typical, the main pump hose blew on the crane!....call in the hose doctor for a fix. She has about 85tons of restraints on her. These are all inspected by a Marine Surveyor to certify the shipment for boarding onto the ship. Next in we have the swing lift which loads onto the truck in a minute and then gone. Cheers from The Tank Factory...........until next time!

Thanks for the info, will talk to him and advise, cheers Andrew.

Yes , I suppose I should have said for the generating side. A friend has an Abbott and he seems to think this is the problem with his charging of the batteries.

Anyone got a spare regulator for one of these, (Abbott) Not sure of part number, but I am sure there is an expert out there that could tell us, Thanks Andrew.

Just for the record, the Main Fan pulley bearings are, LJ30 WRR, which is 30mm x 62mm x 23.8mm and the other one is 207 KTT , which is 35mm x 72mm x 25mm. I have the belt tensioner number some where, will see if I can find it. I replaced mine and skimmed the pulley also. But I have noticed a little while later that it has a slight wobble, so must have been a cheap bearing? Cheers Andrew.

Wanted , Regulator for an Abbot, any ideas ,please contact me , cheers Andrew.

Hi Niels v , She is waiting patiently for shipping space , and has moved off the production line to make way for my 1942 Covenanter ....... Cheers Andrew.

Does anyone recognize these trouble lamps? What year do they relate to , and the only makings seem to be 998 on the bottom. There are also 2 different styles of plug, any ideas? cheers Andrew.

I have a couple of spare selector rod covers that were fabricated for the Daimler Dingo Scout car, Pm if interested , cheers Andrew.

I have a few extra castings left over from the foundry for the Daimler Dingo armoured hood roof, if anyone interested, PM me , Cheers Andrew.

As I said , if starter does not work, it could be a faulty relay in the distribution box, you may well have a fault with the starter itself, so your bench test should give some indication and yes the little wire at the back, ( the thermal trip ) just connect to the earth terminal at the back of the starter and this should bypass this particular operation. As far as batteries go you should be able to check your voltage on individual batteries with a voltmeter, and because of 24volt you just have to make sure terminals are very tight otherwise you can melt the battery post off if loose, also make sure the batteries are connected the right way around, if they are wrong the red light on top of the distribution box will illuminate even when the master switch is off, ( this is just going by memory, and I could stand to be corrected ) Cheers Andrew.

You just need earth (-) and power (+ )on the end terminals and something should happen! Make sure you can turn the engine over by using a bar on the ring gear. One time we had the fuel pump fill all the cylinders up with petrol and the starter went clunk , so I thought it sounded like it was trying to hydraulic ( Fuel pump was at fault ), so took a spark plug out and petrol shot 10 foot in the air, that was a surprise! Also if the starter sticks on, the problem lies with the relay in the distribution box next to the instrument panel , the manual says bang it with your hand to allow it to become unstuck, until proper investigation. Another little tip is to just earth out the thermal breaker wire that runs to the starter. This will stop future problems when you have the decks bolted down and the machine will not start because this has tripped out. I suspect this feature was only put in to stop military personal holding the starter on too long and burning something out. Cheers Andrew.

Never did read the maintence manual! Only do that after I have done the job!, Live about 6hrs south of your Uncle, cheers Andrew.