LarryH57

We are fitting an electric fuel pump to a Hillman Tilly, in place of an AC engine driven pump, and I'd like to know what psi approx. would do. I imagine its got to be fairly low pressure for the type of engine. Has anyone done this to a Tilly or similar type of vehicle? Once I know what psi, I can then order one from firms like Southern Carburettors, who have a few positive earth types. BTW I have also seen pumps rate in litres or gallons per hour. Which is a better way of assessing an electric fuel pump?

I'm working with a friend on a 1942 Hillman Tilly, that should by all accounts be NEGATIVE earth but is actually Positive! As there is not much in the way of electrics in a Hillman Tilly (just lights and ignition and possibly a fuel pump) some have suggested that its an easy job to do. So what's involved in changing it from Positive Earth to Negative Earth?

Ok more help needed; according to a brief description on the Hillman Tilly Register these vehicles should be 12 volt negative earth, yet the one we are working on is Positive Earth. Were any made like this or is it a bodge being positive earth? The AC fuel pump doesn't work because the cam on the engine is worn, so we want to fit an electric pump for now - which needs to be positive earth as the positive terminal on the battery is connected to the bulkhead. By the way does any one know the pressure of the standard AC pump as we would like to fit one from SU that's 1.4 psi. Is that good enough?

Any help on the length of the push rod gratefully received.

Thanks this helps with the mix to get the right paint colours - but which colour to choose?

For the PSC 1/72 scale Universal Carrier and Loyd Carrier models I'm making as used on D-Day what colours would be used in the British Army for the base colour? Humbrol or Revell paint numbers or the mix would be of use. I seems that most books cover 'armour' such as Shermans or Churchills or 'soft skin' trucks but not Carriers!

Interesting thread from a while back. Ted did you ever get to answer the last post before this?

S of A it looks like - School of Artillery?

What type of Lucas distributor is it? Do you know what other vehicles used this distributor? There may be other MV owners out there who have a spare or have a source for you that may not know your distributor is the same for their MV.

Can anyone say whether the push rod needs to be made from hardened steel, if we decide to make one up? I suppose it would not harm the engine if we made several and tested them for size and ability to push on the fuel pump cam and then had the best one hardened? BTW - for anyone with a Hillman what length is the push rod, even approximately, as without an exploded diagram its hard to know if the push rod we have of about 7 inches long is the full length or (fingers crossed) not just half of one, with the other bit still in the engine! The push rod just pulled out by hand once the fuel pump was removed. The end that was in the engine didn't look as if it had broken off another bit of metal.

The aircraft tug is a US built Clarktor 6 Heavy Aircraft tug

I agree with Fulltilt - my brake light switch, once replaced and adjusted correctly, has lasted for years. Perhaps there was an intermittent fault with the old switch behind the servo and whenever you adjusted it you temporarily fixed the fault till you went over a pot hole and gave it a jolt.

How strange to see your brake light switch fitted to the brake pedal on your 24v Series LR. My 12v Lwt has this switch under the bonnet behind the brake servo. I thought all Series 3s were the same in this respect!

What scale are you building this in 1 to 1 scale or perhaps 1/35 scale? If you are building one without guns is it this version? http://i1131.photobucket.com/albums/m550/JimWarford5/SU-122-54_BMR_5.jpg

I'd been interested in any updates too, as would many other members? How is the project progressing?

Regarding the Hillman Tilly, the fuel pump is actually OK and in good working order. The problem is with the push rod bar that's driven from the engine cam shaft, in that it appears to be worn down at each end so that when the engine is turned over there is not enough of a push on the push rod for it to move the rocker arm on the fuel pump sufficiently to pick up fuel. This problem is apparently typical for Hillman Tillies. A replacement part was sought from a firm called Speedy Spares IIRC but one has not been found as yet. Presumably the push rod which can be pulled out of the engine block (and replaced the same way) is made of hardened steel so could be made up quite easily but does anyone know the correct length, as at the moment we are guessing ours needs 1mm added each end.

I may be stupid but I have often wondered how members bench test the engines they have bought or restored that have been removed from the vehicle. Presumably once reassembled they connect up a battery and perhaps stick a fuel line in a jerry can etc but what else is involved. Do you need to build a steel frame to hold the engine in place?

Well if being older(er) is of benefit when it comes to the cost of insuring MVs, then the opposite is true for younger members. Something therefore needs to be done to help out the under 25s as I doubt that age has anything to do with the likelihood of an accident involving an MV.

Many thanks for your replies; the bubble is about 1/4th inch already but if it has no bearing on the accuracy then that's OK by me.

So presumably it was a Military vehicle at some point in time, before being used by the Fire Service? It would be interesting to know if it has a GS body or a house type, and hopefully it can be tastefully restored back to an MV before its nabbed by our 'greatest rivals' (those who like restoring ex-MV's as Fire Service vehicles, and who probably own red Dodge Weapons Carriers, just to spite us!!!!)

I bought my son a compass off the web and it has a bubble in it. The seller says it is normal as it is designed to show the user when he is holding it level, however it already has a separate spirit level next to the dial for this very purpose. Is the wool being pulled over my eyes? I can't say I remember such a bubble being in the compass when I was doing map reading in the Army? Also its strange that none of the photos of the item show the bubble, neither does the photo on the box.

Sorry to digress, but its seems every home in 1960-70s had a carpet like that!

Was there not something from the Federation of British Historic Vehicle Clubs recently that said they had some funding or backing to allow a few firms to take on apprentices for the very reason that (dare I say it) many of the experienced restorers are getting old. I've read on several occasions that MV owners have taken something along to guys in their 80's who are still expert at sheet metal work and fabricating parts.

Richard, in 1970s I didn't go to MVCG meetings only events, as I was heavily in to the TA in those days. I did go on the 35th Anniversary Normandy Tour in 1979, and wrote an article for Windscreen a few issues ago. Anyway its encouraging the responses from the younger MV owners, so keep up the good work.

I'm one of the old ones! I joined the MVCG in 1978!