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sexton

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Everything posted by sexton

  1. Tim, you sent me the manual on gunnery so I could scan them and return, remember? They’re the only reason I got the traverse working, I owe you! Got stab working for a bit then it just up and quit. With no spare control boxes, I gave up for the sake of my sanity! Regards, Malcolm
  2. Found this thread because I have the same problem on our new-to-us Dingo, ie good idle but backfired and quit when any throttle applied. I checked timing and found it too retarded. Set it at 12 degrees btdc (figure that’s ok with modern gas) and that fixed the backfire and quitting, but not the major off-idle bog. I took the carb apart before I noticed this and found accel pump diaphragms in good shape but no spring in the pump! Found a spring in my stash but it may be too weak, so that may be cause. But it feels more like an off-idle transfer port problem to me since it bogs so dramatically as soon as the engine comes off idle. This is earlier than I would expect accel pump to kick in. I checked the manuals I have, and found info on the carb is poor. Cross section does not show an off idle transfer port and I didn’t think to check when I had it apart. So perhaps the accel pump is also designed to compensate for off idle demand? Low float level is a possibility but I’ve always found the idle circuit insensitive to float level. It’s the main circuit that shows this first. Engine revs happily to redline once past bog. I’ll take carb apart again, check for a plugged off idle port, and try a stronger accel pump spring. Dingo still has mechanical fuel pump which seems to work ok, because when I crack banjo bolt at carb, I get a good squirt of gas. But it could also be a good source of rubber debris if it’s old. Malcolm
  3. Hi, Tim, just found this. Good to see you on here, it’s a great forum. Thanks again for your help with our Cent. We got power traverse working reliably but couldn’t get STAB to work. Shame. Malcolm
  4. Hi, Kiscsepi, I specifically need logic and wiring diagrams for the auto loader. I don’t believe the T55 has an auto loader. Thanks, Malcolm
  5. John, we have some translated manuals, but only for the operation of the tank. They don't include detailed wiring diagrams or summaries of the control logic. Those would be in a somewhat specialized manual for the techs troubleshooting auto loader problems. I had a hard time finding this kind of stuff for the Cent and the Chieftain. I suspect translated manuals are just not out there for Russian stuff Malcolm
  6. Hi, we (Ontario Regiment Museum in Canada) have acquired a T72, apparently an old one, circa 1973. She's not in bad shape. I'd like to get the autoloader functioning even at the risk of museum members losing limbs. But I know from working on Centurion and Chieftain gun control elecronics that wiring diagrams and an explanation of the logic is pretty well mandatory to do that. Anyone know of any translated manuals on this subject? Thanks, Malcolm
  7. Juan Carlos, the way I find top dead centre on a side valve engine is to use a large zip tie. I called this a tie wrap in my earlier posts but zip tie is the more common term. Google zip tie to see what I mean. Slide the large head of the zip tie into the spark plug hole. Turn the engine over by hand. The piston will hit the head of the zip tie before it reaches TDC and will stop. Using a paint pen, mark that point on the harmonic balancer or fan pulley and also mark a stationary point on the crankcase. Then turn the engine the opposite direction from the way it normally turns until the piston stops when it hits the zip tie. Mark that point on the pulley relative to the mark on the crankcase. The point exactly half way between these two marks on the pulley is TDC. Malcolm
  8. Despite valiant efforts by some members to clarify oil requirements, I still can’t figure out what best modern oil would suit the L60 in the above tank. The old girl will only do about 10 miles a year (museum tank days), so I suspect it’s not that critical. It seems OMD 90 is what I need. And I believe that’s a 10W30 high detergent diesel rated multigrade. Is that right? Since we only run these tanks for any length of time in the warmer months, I think we could get away with Shell Rotella T 15W40, which is very available round here. Any comments? Thanks, Malcolm
  9. Thanks, Tiffy. Just removing engine, so we’ll keep track of shims. Still waiting for crane! Malcolm
  10. Yes, I volunteer there. Get to work on lots of vehicles! Glad you enjoyed the weekend. We squeezed another one in this September with somewhat restricted attendance. It was our best yet, I think. The outside reenactors and pyrotechnics were amazing. malcolm
  11. Hi, Phil. Good videos! I see you are a fan of headlights. I don’t understand why the other old coots here with poor low light vision like me don’t use them! On the topic of CMP’s, we recently got a really nice welding version. Ford V8 as the main engine, and another Ford V8 in the back powering a big old Lincoln welder! We can’t find any documentation on the welding side, especially the unusual multiple governors on the V8 carb. Ever seen any? Thanks, Malcolm
  12. Sitting waiting for an engine stand to be fabricated by our in-house welder. We have a couple of spare engines so he’s copying the stands they are on. Looks pretty straight forward. Crane-wise, we have a nice donated truck-mounted boom crane but the operator is a working guy and can’t make it down here at the drop of a hat. We have a few Chieftain parts but I don’t think we have the nice lifting rig with the 4 turnbuckles. We may use 4 1-ton chain-falls instead so we can keep the engine nice and level. We’re not in a hurry. It’s a winter project. The weather here pretty well shuts us down, so we can’t do the tank days and battle re-enactments we do in the warmer weather. We have a 432. Not a large vehicle so I’m impressed the 432 can lift 3 tons! They are nice vehicles. Though a bit inferior to the M113’s we have, IMO.😎 malcolm
  13. Good luck, Paul! We’ve got ours ready to go, just waiting for a crane. Malcolm
  14. Thanks for replies, guys. I’m not going into this cold! 😎 I have all kinds of info, job guides, and procedures on pack removal and installation. It was the turret position I was wondering about. Couldn’t find any reference to it. As John said, I found gun left, bit closer to rear than 90 degrees might be ok. But it’ll be a tight squeeze. Another two questions: (a) do I need to drain oil tank? The instructions don’t say to do this, but the return pipe from the scavenge pump goes into the tank well below the oil level, so draining would be necessary to remove hose. Or does it go above oil level inside the tank? I see the Pressure pump supply comes from the top of the tank so removing its hose just drains the small amount in the standpipe. (b) where are alignment shims? Under engine or transmission? Thanks, Malcolm
  15. Hi, don’t see much Chieftain activity on here, but I’m short of options. We have to pull the main engine to replace the electric starter. At least, I think we do. It looks pretty damned inaccessible to replace it in situ. And it turns out the engine is well designed for easy removal. Question is, where should the turret be located to allow engine removal. None of the many manuals we have cover this for some reason. And we have restricted turret rotation due to tank location. Malcolm
  16. Forgot to mention, I can't find this part in the parts manual so I don't have a part number.
  17. I'm working on a Samson. When the starter button button is pressed, the motor spins up but the pinion doesn't kick out to engage with the ring gear. The starter was rebuilt about a year ago and just installed. I took it apart and the reason for this is obvious. The segmented ring installed in the solenoid bore that pushes the pinion out is just missing. The rebuilder forgot it, lost it, or just decided to leave it out because it is a pain to install.. Anyone know where i can get this ring and the garter spring that wraps around it? Thanks, Malcolm
  18. I've read through your attempts to unscrew the end cap of the equilibrator, item 48 in the parts diagram, and I don't see anywhere where you specifically heat the bugger up to red hot with an oxy-acetylene torch. That's what it needs! And by the "bugger", I mean the flat face of the end cap and the region of the cylinder with the internal threads. I don't know the diameter of the cylinder but you may need to buy or borrow a crescent wrench, aka adjustable spanner, large enough to fit the flats. And it must fit snugly! Soaking in the huge variety of penetrants always suggested for this kind of problem doesn't hold a candle to heat. The Belleville washers will not suffer from this heating as the thermal conductivity across an interface is very poor, especially if rust is involved. Malcolm
  19. John, the guys at the nuke plant used to bring in an electrical discharge machining contractor when they broke a stud on a critical piece of equipment. Don't know the price but it didn't seem to be too expensive. Malcolm
  20. Well spotted, Citroman! It is indeed 0.829. So that's what the 2500/.829 means on the back of the tach! Malcolm
  21. John, i worked at a nuclear plant, so steam, heat, and highly stressed bolting. We had a very good metallurgical department who identified failure causes and we saw our fair share of bolting SSC. 115 ft-lb on a 7/16" stud is 140,000 psi stress in the stud. High quality grade 8 bolting has an ultimate tensile stress of 150,000 psi. So those studs are extremely high tensile material. No wonder they were susceptible to SCC. And no wonder you had difficulty drilling and tapping it!
  22. Not necessarily. This is a crash shift, no synchromesh, so if the gear teeth don't line up with motor shut off, they won't engage. Try kicking the motor over with the starter and trying again. I agree with sirhc, on a CVRT and a Ferret, you have to shift forward to reverse and vice versa very firmly, with no delay. And I mean firmly. Malcolm
  23. Found this late but I can tell you the Centurion tachogenerator which is driven by an idler gear off the cam gear is an AC generator that creates an AC voltage that varies as rpm. So the tachometer is really just an AC voltmeter calibrated in rpm. At 2500 crank rpm the tachogenerator generates about 4V AC. One wrinkle is that the tachogenerator is spun at 0.892 of the crank speed, for reasons that only a British designer would know, so when test spinning the tachogenerator at 2200 rpm, the tach will read 2500 rpm, the redline for a Cent. This doesn't make for an easy conversion to other vehicles. Malcolm
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