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About sexton

  • Rank
    Staff Sergeant

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  • Location
    Whitby, Ontario, Canada
  • Interests
    All things mechanical.
  • Occupation
    Mechanical engineer
  1. CVRT Coolant?

    Thanks, guy. Ethylene glycol it is. Thats a strange problem with the FV432, Robin. I haven't seen that here. Perhaps old rubber with low resiliency losing all its resiliency when cold and not being able to seal rough pitted surfaces. Princess Auto sells some nice, heavy-duty gear clamps used for hydraulic suction hose that you can really reef up on. Malcolm
  2. CVRT Coolant?

    I thought this subject would have been well covered on here but searches did not find much, so please bear with me. The coolant in the Striker I am working on showed only -12 C protection which was a bit scary as we had a very cold winter here and the poor old girl was stored outside. I drained the coolant and it came out clear, like water but maybe a bit more viscous and slimy (very subjective!). I thought it might be AL39, which is what the manual specifies, but it seems that is blue. There was no hint of blue. A diesel mechanic told me he has seen a clear antifreeze. I don't think it was pure water because it ran clear, not rusty, so I think it must have had some corrosion inhibitors in it. Anyway, AL39 is basically an ethylene glycol coolant so I plan on replacing it with a good quality automotive ethylene glycol coolant like Prestone, in a 50-50 mix. This is much more available over here than the British spec AL39. Anyone know of any reason this is not a reasonable option? Malcolm
  3. CVRT electronic ignition question

    Here are the 4 pdf's Robin sent me, which have some great info on the electronic ignition. The last pdf is an amalgam of the four so a bit easier to read but its not great quality. Robin, the rocket pod is original with the manual and motor-driven pumps for the hydraulic lift. Malcolm cvrt electronic ign03.pdf cvrt electronic ign04.pdf CVRT electronic ignition tech data.pdf CVRT electronic ign01.pdf cvrt electronic ign02.pdf
  4. CVRT electronic ignition question

    Great information, Robin. Answers all my questions, except the one about why this Striker still has the green over-rev warning light on the central pod. I assume it's disconnected since the wiring diagrams you sent me don't show any connections from the rev limiter to the annunciation module. I've noticed at least one of our CVRTs still has the small disks and transducer mounted on the fan pulley to switch this green bulb on during over-revving. This indicates it still has points ignition. I've got to make sure the green light still works on this one and that drivers know what it indicates. Green seems a totally inappropriate colour! Thanks again, Malcolm
  5. CVRT electronic ignition question

    Fantastic response, Diana. Thank you. Malcolm
  6. CVRT electronic ignition question

    I would appreciate that, Robin. My searches showed various links to a PDF on electronic ignition, but they didn't work. I've sent an email. Malcolm
  7. Hi, I'm working on a Striker and I would appreciate some information. I pulled the distributor cap to check the points and found electronic ignition. None of the manuals I have (up to 1976) talk about this ignition upgrade. The engine also does not have the pickup disks and transducer on the fan pulley to drive the tachometer that I've seen on other CVRTs. So does the tach on this vehicle use a pulse signal from the ignition module? Does the module include a rev limiter? Does the green light on the central warning module still light to warn of over-revving? I'm reluctant to free-rev the engine to 4700 rpm to find out. We have a few Jag-engined CVRTs and I have watched people being taught to drive them. It is very common for novices to over-rev them and I assumed the subsequent popping and backfiring I heard was a rev-limiter kicking in. But when I read the manuals, I found there was no rev limiter on the points-equipped ones, just the green warning light. This made me cringe as I then assumed the popping and banging I was hearing was valve bounce. It would make me feel better to learn that our CVRTs had rev limiters built into their electronic ignition systems. And another question: when I pulled the oil fill cap on the right-hand cam cover with the engine running, I was surprised by the amount of oil held up in the head. It was about 1/2" deep on the low side. Made me think a head drain was plugged. Anyone else noticed this? Thanks, Malcolm
  8. Centurion Rotax Starter Question

    Yes I had the starter completely dismantled. It doesn't surprise me it vibrates when spinning unloaded, water had got in and caused some rusting of bearings and gears. We don't need a working spare right now so I'll keep it for parts. Thanks for the confirmation on the polarity. Malcolm
  9. More Ferret woes, now oil leak!

    Oh, come on. Off road, the stock engine in good condition motors right along, with the suspension doing a great job handling four tons of bouncing steel. On road, the stock brakes and really poor visibility really limit top speed. And people who swap out carbs for fuel injection on this old stuff just don't know how to tune carbs. A Cummins 5.9 swap, a la CVRT, now you're talking. Malcolm
  10. Oil on steering and main brake rotors

    The steering and main brake pads were soaked in oil as expected, so I cleaned them with brake cleaner and then baked them in the oven at 400F for 10 mins. Some remained clean, but oil was just bubbling out of two of them and others were filmed over with oil. After cleaning, I put them back for a second bake. The ones that filmed over now remained dry but the two bad ones were still bubbling out oil. One took one more bake and the other took 2 more bakes before oil stopped coming out. I'm impressed with this technique, but I didn't understand what is happening. Mineral oil doesn't boil until about 300C, so it wasn't the gearbox oil actually boiling out. Yet there it was, bubbling away on the surface of the pads. I found an EBC tech memo that explained that the phenolic resins in organic pad materials off-gas under heavy braking. This off-gassing is what causes brake fade in extreme conditions (pad material getting up to 1000F). So I think some off-gassing is occurring at 400F and that is driving out the soaked-in oil. Malcolm
  11. Oil on steering and main brake rotors

    That's an interesting point about small oil leaks accumulating on the floor and getting up onto all the rotors after heavy rain. I did find it a bit surprising that all 4 rotors were contaminated. Seemed like a lot of seals would have to be leaking. I'll keep my fingers crossed. Both vehicles have the foot operated drain valve for the gearbox compartment but that's a good idea about leaving a bolt out of the access hatch. I'll do that. Chris, when I drilled drain holes, I was drilling through about 1.5" of solid aluminum all the way, so I guess we don't have the uparmoured ones here. If I had hit an interspace and then seen foam "filings" coming up, it would have been an "uh-oh" moment. Malcolm
  12. Oil on steering and main brake rotors

    Yes, the final drives don't look too bad to get off to replace that input shaft oil seal. But as you say, I need to pin down the leak source first. I had slight final drive seal leaks on another CVRT but it only contaminated the main brake rotors, not the steering rotors, which is kinda what I'd expect. The fact that both sets of rotors are oiled up might mean there are multiple leaks. And I see there are two gearbox oil seals that can leak onto each steering brake rotor. I guess I'll give the steering brakes a good clean to see if I can get some steering back and test drive and find the leaks when the weather warms up. Thanks, Malcolm
  13. We've got a Striker CVRT that is reported to have poor steering. Hydraulics are fine, no leakage and about 3" of tiller movement before brakes apply hard. But steering brake rotors and main brake rotors are coated with oil. Pads must be saturated too. This is only the second CVRT I've worked on but looking at final drive and gearbox cross sections, it looks like it might be final drive axle seals or gearbox output shaft seals leaking, or both. Is this a known problem? Malcolm
  14. Welding Ferrets

    Thanks, Chris. Cobalt drills are really tough sharp drills and I see Union Butterfield make good industrial quality taps. I think Canadian Tire-quality taps would break off in the hole and really mess things up. It's a joke amongst mechanics that welders think everything can be fixed with a grinder and a welder. Since your welder used drills and taps, you gotta think this is the easier way to do it.
  15. Welding Ferrets

    Great info. NOS and Tamber. Thanks. Chris, can you ask the welder specifically what type of drills and taps he used? Hopefully it's not a trade secret. Malcolm