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sexton

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sexton last won the day on June 26 2018

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About sexton

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    Staff Sergeant

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  • Location
    Whitby, Ontario, Canada
  • Interests
    All things mechanical.
  • Occupation
    Mechanical engineer

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  1. Paul, Sorry to hear about your health woes. Sounds painful! We have made some progress. We have a spare clutch in poor condition and one of the clever guys here suggested using just the clutch shaft as an alignment tool. Seemed like a good idea, so I stripped the old clutch down and it looks like we can drop the engine in, slide it towards the front, install the bare clutch shaft (well, not completely bare, it has the drive gear mounted at the crankshaft end and the output shaft flange at the gearbox end), slide the engine backwards to locate the drive gear in the end of the crankshaft, bolt the flange up to the gearbox input shaft flange, and check the alignment by mounting dial indicators on the clutch shaft and clocking the crankcase face and the gearbox flange face using the two surfaces shown on the drawing below. The parts of the old clutch we will use are coloured in (faint) orange below. I think it will work! Thank you, Mike! So we're getting closer to having her running. All the wiring associated with running the engine has been repaired, the driver's instrument panel and switchboard have been rebuilt, alternative instrumentation for coolant temperature and engine rpm has been installed (the original stuff was not repairable), new batteries and cables are in, the clutch has been overhauled, all the control linkages from the driver's compartment to the throttle, brakes, clutch and gearbox have been cleaned and lubricated, the long range fuel tank has been cleaned out and will be used as the main tank,, new fuel tubing run to the engine, the fuel filter rebuilt with a new element, a repaired fuel tank selector valve installed, all coolant tubing and the engine mount frame have been repaired and pressure tested, the coolant header tank has been repaired and pressure tested with rebuilt pressure relief/vacuum breaker valve, the main and steering brakes have been cleaned and lubed, the oil tank cleaned and pressure tested, the oil cooler cleaned and pressure tested, one rad has been cleaned and pressure tested, the other is in progress, the air filters have been cleaned and rebuilt, the gearbox selector forks and shafts removed, cleaned and lubed, suspension lubrication is in progress, one exhaust pipe between engine and hull has been repaired, one still has to be done, the fans have been rebuilt with new bearings. The main outstanding tasks are the rad repair (leaking end cover gaskets) and the engine/gearbox alignment. We're getting close. Malcolm
  2. Hi, Paul, Thanks for responding. I'll send you a PM. Can you remember if Barney used the very special tool specified in the Manual to do the gearbox-engine alignment? Because I suspect, like so many special tools and elaborate procedures in the manual, the guys in the field found more practical ways of doing the job. That's what I need! Whoever took the drivetrain apart before my time bagged and tagged the gearbox alignment shims so I used those when installing the gearbox. That gives me some confidence that at least the gearbox- final drive alignment is ok. Malcolm PS. It's unusual for valve timing and magneto timing to slip. What do you figure is happening?
  3. Hi, Caddy, I'm resurrecting this old thread in the hope you are still around. I'm getting close to installing a Mk 4B Meteor in our Mk5/2 Cent at the Ontario Regiment Museum in Ontario, Canada. It's a 1974 rebuild by Scottish Aviation, and it runs well on the test stand after some magneto and carb cleanup. I am really interested in the engine installation photos you posted. It looks like you removed the starter, generator, and oil filter, then dropped it in sideways into the hull and rotated it 90 degrees into position. Is that correct? I wasn't planning on removing the oil filter but you say that's needed. We have the fans installed, but you didn't. Is that a show stopper? It also looks like the exhaust manifolds weren't installed. I know we have to remove the right hand one to allow installation of the oil tank post engine install, but is there a reason you had neither installed? How did you align the engine to the gearbox? There's quite an elaborate procedure for this in the manual, and I'm struggling with it. Finally, did the Mk 3 get running under its own power? Regards, Malcolm PS Mike, John's getting back to me.
  4. Hi, I'm still plugging away at getting our Mk 5/2 Centurion drivable at the Ontario Regiment Museum. I'm lubing the long-neglected suspension now, and have a question about the two shock absorbers at the top of each large suspension unit. They are supposed to be submerged in a reservoir of a light ISO 12 viscosity hydraulic oil and they draw from that reservoir in operation. When I removed the fill plugs I found all of them very low in oil, possibly dry, and one with a fill of grease, or at least grease had been slathered down in the fill hole. I was surprised at the lack of oil because none of them showed any signs of leakage. Other oil-filled assemblies like the final drives and gearbox still had clean oil in them up to the correct level. Then a member here who had served in Chieftains expressed his surprise that's the Cent has shocks, because he said the Chieftain didn't. Now I'm wondering if it was decided the Centurion shocks didn't do anything useful and were just given up on, in the sense that no further maintenance was done on them. And the Chieftain consequently didn't even bother with shocks. Seems strange to me, but I thought this forum might shed some light. Malcolm
  5. I got some good replies on MLU if you need some info on this tool. Malcolm
  6. Hi, We have a Staghound on loan and I'm working on setting up the throttle linkages which are out of adjustment.The pic below is from the manual and shows the throttle linkage "checking gauge". This is an important tool for the initial step of setting the correlation between the hydraulic slave cylinder idler lever mounted on the right hand transmission bell housing and the link rod up to the right hand carb. Not having this makes the setup a bit hit and miss. Does anyone have one? I don't need the tool but I'd really appreciate a sketch or photo with dimensions.Thanks,MalcolmOntario Regiment Museum
  7. Matt, adjustable spanners can cause problems on smaller stuff but a good quality one will work no problem on those larger union nuts. Try it. Malcolm
  8. Guy, I'll check out the toggle switch to see if it does anything. The switch is sticky feeling, like the internals may be gummed up or corroded. There's a blue hydraulic valve on the floor with wires running into it. It may control that. Interesting that the winch is supposed to be operated closed up. Those guys in the YouTube video of the samson recovering a Klaas tractor didn't seem too worried about cable breakage! Robin, we have good generic manuals for our cvrts but no specific ones for vehicles like this. It not too hard to figure stuff out, especially with the expertise on here. Malcolm
  9. Great info, guys. Was there a commanders seat that the winch operator could rotate around and sit in with his head sticking up out the hatch? This Samson doesn't have it. Malcolm
  10. Here's some pics of the winch. All the covers are removed. Where the hook would normally be, there is a split block that is bolted around something on the end of the cable. The foot pedal for the winch release operates a clutch master cylinder. One photo shows the slave cylinder at the other end acting on the drum locking clutch. Another photo shows the orange flashing light. Just below it is an engine tachometer for the winch operator. I'm not sure what the orange warning light just above the tach tells the operator. Engine trouble maybe? There is a mechanical interlock between the foot pedal and the winch engagement lever to prevent the winch drive being engaged with the drum lock on. There is a warning buzzer that sounds if the master disconnect is closed and the winch PTO is engaged. A warning not to start the engine, I guess. You can see the switch button on the PTO closeup. The winch is very well built and substantial, but the lever, throttle control, and foot pedal have an afterthought feel to them. The winch throttle control cable was disconnected at the throttle pedal linkage, I suspect because of the risk of the winch throttle being left at a high rpm setting by mistake. I've reconnected it, but I'm not sure I should have! Malcolm
  11. Sure. I'll get some tomorrow. It also looks like the winch cable, which comes out the back of the vehicle, can be redirected to the front over the top of the vehicle. Guy, can you confirm? I'll take some pics of that also. Malcolm
  12. Tried it today, Guy, and it worked exactly as you said. Thanks. The hand throttle on the winch control lever had been disconnected at the throttle linkage pivot on the driver side wall. Don't know why. I'll see if I can get it working. Malcolm
  13. I'm doing basic maintenance on a Samson. I don't have a manual. I'm curious if the massive winch in the back works. I've run the engine and engaged the short clutch lever just behind the drive shaft u-joints. The pump input drive shaft spins, with a satisfying hydraulic pump-type whine. Sounds like it's driving the two pumps. The smaller pump looks like it supplies 1000 psi oil to two generic hose quick connects. It also seems to supply suction pressure to the larger pump that drives the winch. The RV on the larger pump indicates discharge pressure is about 2000 psi. The hydraulic tank is full. There is a long vertical lever with 3 positions that looks like it engages release cable, neutral, and pull cable. It is mechanically interlocked with the winch clutch pedal. There is also has an engine throttle control lever mounted on the long lever. And there is an engine tach visible to the winch operator when his/her head is sticking out of the commanders hatch. So my question is, have I got this right? Long lever to control release, neutral, and pull. Clutch pedal pressed down to disengage winch drive? What do we do to allow pulling cable off the spool with the engine shut down? Malcolm
  14. Lauren, yes, you're right about the earlier Meteors having no mounted generator but I figured with this tank being a later Mk 5 it would have had the Mk4b engine. Seems not. Maybe the Mk 5 isn't as late a Mk as I thought. So we either get the auxiliary engine and generator running or find a regulator for the Mk 4b and splice it in. Oh well, nobody said it would be easy. Malcolm
  15. Hi, we've just started working on getting our Centurion up and running. I have a tech manual for Mk 1, 2, and 3, and a users manual for Mk3, 5, and 6. From my reading, I think we have a Mk5. We recently bought a rebuilt Meteor Mk4B engine for it and it has the 45 amp generator on the left hand valve cover. However, our tank doesn't seem to have the voltage regulator for the engine mounted generator. It is normally located at the rear right of the fighting compartment according to the user manual. I followed the large battery cables and they run direct from the batteries to the drivers switchboard and then from the driver's switchboard to the auxiliary engine regulator at the rear left of the fighting compartment. Is it possible this tank was not set up for using the engine mounted generator? The reason I'm asking is that we want to run the tank with the Meteor initially without installing the auxiliary engine. Thanks, Malcolm
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