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andypugh

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Everything posted by andypugh

  1. No, the nut should be set to give bearing clearance between the hub and a thrust-washer on the axle and then locked in place with a split-pin. You might not still have the thrust washer, or it might be friction-welded to the hub or the axle by now. I have once had to grind one off (On an N-type in Tunbridge Wells, I think, or it might have been the one in Thaxted) The brakes were originally iron-on-iron, any linings are retrofitted. Some owners are still using iron-on-iron and report that the brakes work at least as poorly as the lined ones.
  2. That style of coupling is pretty standard, but maybe not in the exact size you need. Do you know the tooth count and the diameters? It's possible that one of these might fit: https://www.bearingsrus.co.uk/transmisson-products/coupling/bowex-gear-coupling Otherwise I would be looking at 3D printing. Given some basic diameters I can model and print you one.
  3. A less traditional approach might be to leave the ring unjointed, weld brackets to the join. Pull it up very tight, MIG weld the join and grind off the brackets. This probably won’t pull up as tight as a well-executed shrink fit, but might be more relaxing than a badly executed one.
  4. That's why I am suggesting the copying machine. If you do make your own spokes, then my watching of Engelscoachshop would lead me to suggest not cutting the tenons, or leaving them very short. That seems to be their main adjustment.
  5. It also appears that the brake drum mounting ones have a definite bulge, rather than just a lesser degree of radiusing where the bolts go through? Possibly made with a form tool originally? Anyway, the answer is probably to make a copy machine, like this one:
  6. Thinking further: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174707121469 in a CNC horizontal mill might work. How tight is that internal radius? I do have a long 25mm cutter going spare: https://photos.app.goo.gl/U8TiSe9iKoyeYzow8 Throwing money at a wheelwright might be the more expedient solution. If you do want to make your own wheels (and it is something that I have always fancied a go at myself) then watching "Engel's Coach Shop" on that YouTube might be rather informative.
  7. Try eBay for long-series cutters. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193879967564 for example.
  8. Having taken the wheels off of N-types more often than most myself.... You should be able to just undo the nut. The half-shaft is anchored inside the differential. The hub runs on a bearing on the outside of the axle tube. The "spider" is keyed to the half-shaft and held on by the nut. The nut clamps the hub between the spider and the thrust bearing ring. The spider transfers the torque from the half-shaft to the hub.
  9. Around .25mm / 0.010" or something like 33 SWG.
  10. You need some sort of embiggening chamber. As for the welded-on parts, I think that I would be looking to plasma-cut off the modern wheel and then machine off the weld (and remaining bits of wheel) on a lathe. Though the "modern" wheel looks plenty old, too.
  11. I wonder if screen-printing resist would work? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hunt-Moon-Screen-Printing-Emulsion/dp/B07PFWC1ZD I used some for screen-printing and it gave excellent results just exposed in sunlight. (https://photos.app.goo.gl/gNhHZ6pHHJCv9ZLEA was the final result)
  12. Interesting to see that even when new there had to be plenty of drip trays under them.
  13. It's item 284246864651 - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284246864651 But utterly irrelevant to this thread.
  14. You just cross the chain, obviously 🙂 (My grandfather used to say that he once tried that, when they simply could not get a motor on some equipment to reverse. I have never been sure whether he was serious, and it is now several decades too late to ask)
  15. I recently watched a YouTube video of a chap making a new front door for his Victorian house and painting it in the Victorian manner. An interesting take-away was that you can fill with linseed oil putty then paint straight over. Both the paint and the putty are a mixture of linseed oil and whiting, so it shouldn't really be a surprise. Here is the video
  16. They are typically low enough ratio to be reversible. We have an old worm-drive chain hoist. That is irreversible, but only because it has a friction brake on the end of the worm shaft. With good bearings and adequate lubrication worm drives are fully reversible up to fairly high ratios.
  17. They feel exactly like any other differential.
  18. I have a tool and cutter grinder which is, in theory, capable of grinding spheres. On my particular one (early Alexander) there is no easy way to disable the 90 degree stop. The lathe speed is synchronised to the current working diameter, but the VFD control is slightly laggy so might get left behind on small diameters / short passes. The speed changes are more obvious at the start and end of each pass, but it should be running at constant surface speed. The VFD is controlled by Modbus through a USB interface. I would like to bring that into the realtime layer, but that needs new drivers for the Mesa interface cards. This is not an unsurmountable problem, as I am the guy who writes the LinuxCNC drivers for the Mesa cards.
  19. Step should work, but a traditional drawing is probably about as easy.
  20. Seen on that YouTube: Possibly some interesting materials and techniques there.
  21. A Yorkshire lathe for a Yorkshire truck. Though, at the time, most of them were.
  22. I can make balls really easily. Just send me a drawing.
  23. With a little more engineering it could be connected to the inside of the radiator and to a swivel inside the cap, so that it would be invisible, and also effective when driving.
  24. Is thicker-wall tube too obvious a suggestion? I would reckon on boring the tube internal to suit the forgings. A drill or reamer will just follow the existing bore. 31/32" and a bit more turning of the forgings? Ebay 133542817126 might do the trick.
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