Lauren Child

Well said, and thanks for following up.

It doesn't work even with a facebook account - I suspect it's been pulled.

Have you considered starting with early war vehicles like the Scammell Pioneer, or are you just looking at the later American vehicles? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scammell_Pioneer

He was a gent I'm looking forward to reading his book. The film was a great film, but didn't do a good job of the history. This is a good one to watch for more of the history, complimenting the film. Something went wrong...

Here you go

Welcome along!

That's definitely a Charioteer in the background

This sounds like an excellent idea - I wish her all the best

The colour identifies the regiment within the brigade : red for senior, then yellow, blue, and green. Independent regiments used white. The colours dont always match up, as units got moved, and it seems to be a bit haphazard. The shape identifies the squadron within that: - Diamond for HQ - Trangle for A sqdn - Square for B sqdn - Circle for C sqdn - Solid rectangle for D sqdn The number inside is the troop within the squadron. There's a useful book called "World war 2 Military vehicle markings" be Terence Wise, also going through the major formation markings etc. for both allies and axis.

To answer the original question, with the exception of the Vickers logo (fir the armad manufacturer Vickers) they look like formation signs. Formations are groups of fighting forces that may be made up of a variety of units, e.g. infantry, tanks, engineers, all of which would have their own regiments, corps, and arms of service. The formation sign allows easy identification of those that are teamed to work together. The main look up for these is a book called "Formation badges of world war 2" by Howard Cole

Thanks for the heads up chaps

Alas no idea on what the B means on the end model number - my guess would be a revision to the original, although looking at a parts list for a similar board (189) the letters used are A, B, M and T with no obvious difference. If it's a read across from the main number, the letters seem to mean different things on different regulators, so 37A indicates ammeter terminals on a 37, while 155A indicates compensated voltage on the 155. On the 75 (which will be popular with the softskin fans on the forum) 75B indicates for use with dynamo without field resistance, and 75BT (as on Bedford, Ford etc.) is the same but with a special low temperature regulator.

Ah, 141 looks very different inside - I was mistaken on the difference.

One from the workshop manual.

This is the Cav pamphlet to look for. Though I may be wrong on the difference between 141 and 155.

I'm looking for one if it's available? It is indeed Cromwell and Comet. Centurion did also use 155, but it's a 155-8X. Also 168 as mentionned. 155 is a suppressed version of 141 (if I'm remembering correctly) so there's some crossover.

Still hunting here - dont turn anything down in the meantime, just in case. I'm 99% certain I have a spare copy somewhere though.

Now that it's recovered, I'm hoping Rick will work his way up to it by finishing the work on a certain Charioteer first

No problems since using Ethomix. I haven't had universally good experiences with their chemicals, but the Ethomix seems OK.

I was looking for things to do over the bank holiday weekend, and thought a return trip to Stratford Armouries could be be a good move. Alas I read on the Internet that most of the armoury collection has gone. Does anyone know what's happened? Is it in storage waiting for a return, or has it all gone for good? It's now apparently the home of the Churchill collection (previously at Bletchley Park) and a Wellington bomber exhibit, both of which may still be worth a visit at some stage, but this used to be an amazing collection of weapons through the ages.

It's normal for me, also on ipad.

Well done Rick! Rick Wedlock, tank restorer extraordinaire, shown holding a covenanter steering wheel pic from wikimedia commons

There's some info on this thread : http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?22506-buried-and-abandoned-tanks&p=481222#post481222 Nice job Rick!

wow, thanks Richard - that answers a whole load of questions

I'm fairly certain the the 35RZFAIPO came in different configurations for different vehicles (not just Bedford). 40RZFAIPO as others have said, is for the Ford V8 (and possibly others as well). The jets are accessible from the outside of the carb, without need to strip it down. If you're feeling adventurous, there's a Solex instruction book called "Self-starting Solex Carburettor 35 & 40 RZFAIP downdraught governor type with accelerating device instruction booklet", this covers tuning. There's also some coverage in "British Solex Carburettors" published by Speedsport Motorbooks which is easier to find (out of print, but second hand). This indicates that the O in RZFAIPO indicates a zero starter, though I'm afraid I don't know what that means in practice. Otherwise just go with the Bedford manual Unfortunately none of the info I've found lists what the other stamped in letters and numbers mean (or which relate to what vehicles or configuration).