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Minesweeper last won the day on September 6 2018

Minesweeper had the most liked content!

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About Minesweeper

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  • Birthday 06/09/1939

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    Model Engineering - restoring old lorries
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    Retired Bank Manager

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  1. I walked past the Peerless Crankcase a day or two ago and of course, the 1/2" studs which hold the cylinders to it are still screwed in it, and they caught my eye. I assumed that the thread on those would be either 1/2" Whit or 1/2" UNC - it would have been but unlikely, I thought, but maybe 1/2" BSF or 1/2" UNF. Following my earlier confusion with the BSB thread on the Cam Followers and Tappets, I thought that I would check those studs! And guess what - they are 18 tpi - so none of the aforementioned threads! Any thoughts on that one, please? Tony
  2. Well, I made a meal out of identifying this thread and thanks to all for their input - Ruxy, you were right all the time with the BSB identification and why didn't I think of that one? Emma (Cornish Made), thank your dad for his memory of it when he did the Cornish Peerless all those years ago! So now, we plough on again! Tony
  3. It just occurred to me to check the threads on the studs in the Crank Case which hold the bronze castings down - described in the Parts Book as the "Valve Plunger Guide". Steve took the Bronze Guides off with the Cam Followers still in them - all complete -15 of the nuts came off easily and the last one came out bringing the stud with it. The studs are 5/16" in diameter I would expect that the TPI on them to be either 18 or 22 - possibly 24 but I guess it will not surprise you now when I found that they are 20 TPI ! I have double checked this by trying 5/16" Whit/UNC/UNF, and BSF nuts on the studs but they do not fit. What am I missing? What are we going to find when we get further into the engine, I wonder? Tony
  4. I now have M8 x 1.0 pitch Nuts and Bolts - but remain puzzled! The nuts screw on the original Tappet thread comfortably and I would be perfectly content to use them as the locking nuts for future use. The bolts screw in finger tight to a depth of about 3/8" only but then they start to tighten which makes me think that this cannot be right - they should screw down to almost 1 3/8" length to be similar to the originals if this is the right size. Further thoughts, please! Tony
  5. I tried a 5/16" UNF Nut and Bolt on them today to test the threads, just to make sure - and they do not go. Starts off but binds up.
  6. All very interesting and I am pleased to be helped and advised! The outside diameter - of the surviving clean threads is .3032" or 7.78 mm. No joy with an Imperial Thread Gauge on it and the nearest I can get to this is with a metric Thread Gauge - 1mm - and the bolt thread sits very comfortably on that so I assumed that it must be a 8mm fine thread............ I have no threading tackle of that size but I await some 8mm 1 Nuts and bolts and it will be interesting to see if they fit.
  7. I used Devcon on the corroded insides of the two Radiator Tanks on the Dennis - this was after a thorough cleaning but it was a waste of time. It just did not last. Perhaps the inside of a Radiator with varying temperatures did not help. But a well known Old Vehicle Restorer did say to me at the time that it would be a waste of time - and money- trying to repair an Aluminium Radiator like that.
  8. Pitting - I think that really is the problem! These pipes are not as smooth as we would like to see and a softer rubber pipe connection would probably bed in much better!
  9. Which of the two Sayings apply? The "Sun shines on the Righteous" OR "The Devil looks after his own!" Whichever one it is, I am very pleased for you Tomo! Tony
  10. Great stuff - well done - now some real progress!
  11. Most interesting, Tommo! Tony
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