Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Good

About mark4974

  • Rank
    Lance Corporal

Personal Information

  • Location
    Baildon, West Yorkshire
  • Interests
    M38 Jeep

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi, not sure which size you mean. It only has 10.50 x 20 on the tyre. 10.50 is the width in inches and it’s on a 20” rim. I can send you photos if that helps. Regards, Mark
  2. Dunlop Trak Grip Tyre - £150 In very good condition with plenty of tread. No rips or tears. Wheel comes with the tyre (wheel missing one nut). I believe this is a run flat tyre (has RF3 stamped on the tyre) from the markings and what I have been told but I am no expert! Very heavy (2 man lift). Collection only from near Penistone, South Yorkshire. Can take to Holland in two weeks if you are going on the 30 Corps tour. Happy to email photos if requested. Cheers, Mark
  3. Evening folks Sorry if I have posted this in the wrong place. I know breakdown recovery has been discussed in other posts but does anyone know of a company that will recover a (Bantam) trailer? My breakdown insurance covers my jeep but only trailers with standard ball hitches. No good when you have a military trailer!! Any recommendations will be appreciated. Cheers Mark
  4. Hi folks, I own a M38 jeep which as all military vehicles do leaks at bit of oil! I went to take it out this morning and whilst it was idling on the drive noticed a pool of oil on the floor. Closer inspection revealed oil leaking from the bottom of the bell housing. Not quite running out but a fairly constant drip! Im guessing the main seal has gone so not a quick fix but anyone have any other suggestions before I start taking her apart! Cheers Mark
  5. Evening folks, My mate is still struggling to get his jeep to fire up. He has replaced and checked all the electrical components (coil, etc) and static timed the engine to no gain. Today he has done a compression test and three of the four cylinders have no compression!! Anyone any ideas or suggestions? Cheers Mark
  6. Hi folks, My mate has a GPW or MB (can't remember which!) which won't start. It has been a chassis up restoration but having got nearly to the end it won't start. It has a new (6 volt) battery, leads, coil, condenser, point, leads and plugs. Power is getting through and there is a spark on each plug. He has tried pouring a small amount of fuel directly into the carb and has even tried Easy Start but still no joy. All earthing leads are good. I've no experience of 6 volt systems, can you have a weak spark?! Could it be a dodgy component? Has anybody had a similar problem got any ideas? Cheers Mark
  7. Thanks for all your suggestions. Richard - The studs only have a standard spring washer so I'll look to get the Thackeray type you suggest and not tighten them fully so they can centre themselves properly. What confuses me though is the fact that everything moves okay when you pull it (or push it) manually, yet when it's conected to the hydraulics it locks on. The handbrake rod has been disconnected to rule out problems with that, for the time being?
  8. Afternoon folks, I am having trouble with a rear brake seizing on and despite stripping it down (numerous times!) and rebuilding it I can't seem to find or fix the fault. The other side works fine! It doesn't appear to be rubbing or sticking as I can move the mechanism by hand by either pulling the operating rod or by pushing the bisector mechanism from the front (having removed the cover plate) and the brakes apply and retract as normal. The problem seems to be when I connect the hydraulics. When I press the brake pedal the brakes apply (bisector retracts pushing the two plungers outwards) but then fails to return leaving the brakes on. I have taken the rubber flexible hose and brake pipe off and blown them through with high pressure air so satisfied they are clear and the master cylinder isn't overfilled. I'm now at a loss what to do, other than by a new cylinder. Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated. Cheers, Mark
  9. I'm hoping to take the QL (and the missus!). If not, you'll be stuck with me again!!
  10. This came as a spare with my QL and is not needed. The paint is peeling and there is a bit of surface rust but this will all clean up. No idea what it's worth so best offer secures. collection only from Bradford or can take to Yorkshire Wartime or War and Peace. Cheers, Mark
  11. Hi folks, These came as spares when I bought my QL. I'm unlikely to ever need them but I'm sure someone can make use of them. Not quite sure what to call them. The manual describes them as the door garnish rail panel (the bit with the lock and winding mechanism on), a vertical runner and god knows what you call the U shaped piece but it goes on the inside of the door frame. Anyway there is a left hand and right hand set. The paint is peeling and there is a little bit of surface rust but otherwise in good condition and ready to fit. Selling as a complete set and collection only from Bradford (can take to Yorkshire Wartime or War and Peace). Not sure what they are worth so best offer secures. Cheers, Mark
  12. For sale - Classic Military Vehicle Magazines Issues 1 to 188 (missing issue 56) so virtually complete set. All in good condition and come in a plastic stacker box for storage! £70 obo Collection only from Baildon, West Yorkshire
  13. We are probably all nuts but my question regards the nuts that connect the con rods to the camshaft on the Bedford 28hp engine. I'm presuming they are the same for the MW, QL, etc (I have a QL) and need a new set of 12. Easy enough to get hold of I thought but when I checked the parts list it describes them as Nut, special, connecting rod cap stud. Does anybody know what is special about them (my guess was they are hardened?). Also, does anyone know the size and thread off the tops of their head as I don't have the con rods with me. Many thanks, Mark
  14. Thanks for your reply. I know nothing about Carburetors and hate setting them up. I have 3 that came with the truck. The one that was fitted, one used and one new one. I was planning on putting the new one on but welcome any advice. Would it still be wise to overhaul it (I have a new kit) and any guidance on setting it up. I always seem to wing it and hope for the best 😬 Thanks, Mark
  15. Hi Hendrik, I own a 1944 Bedford QLD and was lucky enough to have the relevant vehicle card come with the vehicle. The card is titled Truck, 3 ton, GS, binned (4x4). The vehicle registration range is 65 RE 66 to 65 RE 63. Mine was 65 RE 44 and recorded as binned. It also belonged to 16 BVD BAOR. From the various research I have conducted I have found out the following information (if any of this is wrong please feel free to correct me). 16 Base Vehicle Depot RAOC was Camp C at Olen (Belgium?). Based there approx 1952 - 1960's. The base was used for the storage and shipment of vehicles and held for TA units for exercise. Vehicles out of service were returned (to the UK?) via Olen. My QLD was sold in the UK at auction in 1977. There is an engine rebuild plate dated 26.2.54 at 22 Base Workshops REME. During restoration I found a unit ID for 3rd Armoured Division but I don't know anything else about its history. When I bought it the previous owner had replaced the old wooden load bed with new wood so there is no evidence of what may have been fitted in the rear. According to Barts Bedford book vehicles 65 RE 32 to 67 RE 63 were binned post war. I hope this helps. Mark
  • Create New...