flandersflyer

.....

.....

Not quite correct. Nicopress Swagers are used to compress copper ferrules onto wire rope. First used by the National Telephone Supply Company for making rigging cables.

 

As an aircraft mechanic I use one regularly, couldn't do without it!

Ok...

Tim,

I know you wrote this on your opening post "Anybody who says it is currently owned by TG Pine will get a slap" BUT, there is a motor engineer at Stickney, just north of Boston with that very name .... and this might tie up with Peter75's post.

Who's that then... Mr Tongue & Groove...?

They are also referred to as "Nico press swedges"

Common amongst aircraft builders

To be honest, Barry, I am not sure how the silencer was put together. I cut the steel to allow the ends to be hooked in opposite directions to interlock but that is looking difficult to do and I am told that it would be unlikely at this period. I am thinking along the lines of a straightforward lap joint with rivets but, now that you mention it, the end could have been joggled to give a circular interior. I may have to make a tool to do it. Further thought required!

 

In the fuel tank, I shall just clean the steel before tinning and not worry about the zinc. It will solder well enough, I am sure. I will tin both sides of each joint before closing the rivets and then simply warm it with the gas torch and feed in a bit more solder if necessary. The proper stuff made of lead this time!

 

Steve

Get one of them joggling tools...the kind that are used for door skinning etc:

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/302110061842

We seem to be reaching a concensus in that they were cast but probably in steel. As I am after more toughness than grey iron but we are only driving a leather coupling, I shall have a go and get them cast in SG iron. That will be the most straightforward solution I think. Thank you for all of your thoughts.

 

I went down to Devon at the weekend, mainly to confirm that my bonnet drawing was correct. I had originally decided on the front and rear profiles and made some plywood patterns.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]127143[/ATTACH]

 

Unfortunately, when held up they were not quite right.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]127132[/ATTACH]

 

I made some more which I brought down to check and these proved acceptable so the drawing has been signed off and sent to another pal to make us a bonnet.

 

In the mean time, the timber for the floor has arrived from Mark the chippy.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]127134[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]127133[/ATTACH]

 

These are a super job and went in beautifully. However, we now needed the bolts to secure them. As we have mentioned before, old coach bolts have square nuts and these are proving surprisingly difficult to get in this country. Fortunately for us, the UNC bolts made in the USA still have square nuts so every time Time visits his in-laws, he comes back with boxes of bolts in his luggage. Goodness knows what 'Homeland Security' make of him! A quick dip in the supply found the perfect bolts so that was that problem sorted.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]127135[/ATTACH]

 

The right hand side has a slot for the gear shift so that was cut and the second piece fitted.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]127136[/ATTACH]

 

We couldn't resist pushing the seat forward to its correct position.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]127137[/ATTACH]

 

A couple of rebates to clear the bolt heads and we had a floor!

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]127141[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]127142[/ATTACH]

 

Dad had previously prepared the steel angles to hold the seat down so now that it was correctly positioned, we drilled the last four holes and fitted them underneath.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]127138[/ATTACH]

 

The front is held down by coach bolts through a rail glued to the front panel. The rear has a pair of steel brackets which are currently in manufacture. The seat can be finally secured next time.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]127139[/ATTACH]

 

Interestingly, it appears that the pedal slot will go through the full width of the front plank. I think we will leave cutting that until the pedals are finally set up. I am hoping that it will become clearer then!

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]127140[/ATTACH]

 

Steve

This is starting to come together now Steve

You'll make your deadline

Glenn.

GLMelectrical

Very interesting thanks for the information ,I wounder why they where specified for the IGL 3 . The only other vehicle that I have seen the fitted on was a W& G ambulance . I will post some photos of them when I get time as I have one in pieces at the moment. Mike

The Crossley "Q" type was specified with Gruss air springs

Crossley Q's were often utilised in RAF service...I think as mobile radio shacks etc

The next part to clean up was the clutch release bearing; this has been put in place to keep it safe.

 

There was a thick layer of green paint on the oil tank. Before stripping the paint I emptied some nice clean oil from the tank but there was also a thick layer of sediment so I put some paraffin in along with three ball bearings and gave it a gentle shake to remove the worst of it.

The fixing straps seem to line up quite nicely with the original holes in the chassis.

The bottom has fallen out of the filter (shown on the chassis rail) so this requires soldering back into place.

It looks like unsoldering the end plate will be required to remove the dents from the top of the tank.

The fan mounting bracket has also been blasted and primed.

 

The inlet manifold looks much better without the green paint. My assumption is that the small pipe was used with a shutter to allow air into the manifold.

try pumping it full of water first with a plumbers pipework pressure tester

see if it pushes them dents out...

shouldn't that be potable water?

you know what I meant

Lead-free solder + lead-free flux actually works very well on plumbing fittings.

 

But it isn't that good on steel. You can still buy tinmans' solder. (From Cromwell, as an example. And they open Saturday mornings)

Do you think this might have anything to do with soldering pipework to carry portable water..?...:banghead:

I heard the older aluminium castings were of a purer quality that made it easier to repair them than the modern alloys? You never know what they mixed in there.

Early aluminium/alloy is full of impurities

Can make it difficult to weld with the argon set...

Forging mild steel should be done with the metal at a bright yellow heat

Dull or bright red is not hot enough....And risks creating brittle spots...And thus cracking/spelching

I did a blacksmithing course...Back in 2000

And that's typical of cold forging Andy....

We haven't been idle in spite of evidence to the contrary! Dad has set us the very tight target of London to Brighton in May 2018 when they are having a special WW1 vehicle class. This really is going to be very hard to achieve but we are going to have a go. To that end, I have done a critical path analysis of the project and have realised that the three items most likely to upset the applecart are the bonnet, the fuel tank and the canvas hood of which the longest lead item is the canvas. Jim Clark at Allied Forces has kindly promised to do the canvas for us but to do it in time, he needs the hood frames very soon. I have, therefore, been concentrating on the steelwork whilst Father and our joiner pal Mark, are doing the timber bows. Fortunately, we have done all of this before as the Dennis has hood frames made to the same pattern. Whilst I understand how they go, they are still a very tedious job however!

 

There are two steel pieces on each side, two uprights and two J-shaped horizontal pieces hinged to them. I started off by bending the J-shape using the forge at my local miniature railway. They bent and joggled quite well but when I got them home, I felt that one could just do with a bit of adjustment in my press with the result you see below:

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]122684[/ATTACH]

 

It went off with quite bang and just snapped. I was quite surprised about this as it is only mild steel. However, I had heated the parts in a coke fire for an extended period (I am not a good blacksmith!) and then quenched them. The carbon rich environment and quenching had case hardened the steel and caused the breakage. The case hardening is quite evident in the fracture and the edges are razor sharp. I carefully heated and air cooled the second one and then arranged to visit the railway again for another go!

 

In the mean time, I started on the verticals. First task was to turn up some bosses and weld them on.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]122685[/ATTACH]

 

My welding hasn't improved! I did stick them in the vice and lean on them and they remained attached so I deemed them adequate.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]122686[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]122687[/ATTACH]

 

Then there were two thicker boss areas at the top to carry the pivot point. These were turned and silver soldered on.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]122688[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]122689[/ATTACH]

 

Then the filing and angle grinding started. This went on and on for hours.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]122690[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]122692[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]122693[/ATTACH]

 

Interestingly, the section changes from elliptical just above the pivot to half-round where the timber bow is attached. Careful filing required but they did work out OK.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]122694[/ATTACH]

 

I bent up a second bar and this one went a lot better with fewer hammer marks. It looks a bit odd because of the joggle which is not obvious but which distorts one's perception.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]122691[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]122695[/ATTACH]

 

Then again endless filing and angle grinding.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]122696[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]122697[/ATTACH]

 

On these, the pivot boss is generated by filing only. I bolted a washer to the surface to give me a guide.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]122698[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]122699[/ATTACH]

 

Main pivot point drilled out and the screw holes were countersunk.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]122700[/ATTACH]

 

Pivot pins turned up.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]122701[/ATTACH]

 

Job complete.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]122702[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]122703[/ATTACH]

 

Now we are waiting for the timber to finish the job. Pleased to see the back of that one!

 

Steve :-)

A good friend of mine assured me he had a spare Dennis 2 ton clutch in his shed so we visited to have a look. After a couple of hours of shunting vehicles around and dropping the boiler out of a steam lorry we spent a few hours emptying a shed to find the clutch (and some parts for his projects!).

[ATTACH=CONFIG]116044[/ATTACH]

 

The crack and broken rim was a bit of a concern and where the clutch stop acts it has worn down to less than 0.1"

[ATTACH=CONFIG]116045[/ATTACH]

 

Removing the woven lining showed even more damage. I will have to decide if it is worth investing in an AC TIG welder to have a go at repairing it or just build it up into a pattern with ply and filler.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]116046[/ATTACH]

 

I already have clutch stops and these have been blasted and primed. The friction linings need to be replaced.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]116047[/ATTACH]

forget using the argon set on that ben

I doubt it`d have it...

just a thought Steve

when sanding/profiling curves in timber where you have 2 sides to do ...it may be better to fix both pieces together flat using a designated straight edge as your datum...then profiling em both at once....to match em up...

http://www.fastenerdata.co.uk/fasteners/washers/spring.html

http://www.ukbolt.co.uk/stainless-spring-washers-154-c.asp

https://www.ondrives.com/stainless-steel-coiled-spring-pins

http://www.springlockwashers.com/washers-for-industrial-use/double-coil-washers/

Now it gets exciting!

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]119822[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]119821[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]119823[/ATTACH]

 

"Hold on Roy whilst we get the tie bar fitted!"

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]119824[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]119825[/ATTACH]

 

Looking good now. A face at last!

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]119826[/ATTACH]

 

We have an interesting problem here. The original low-level water spigot is too low and won't connect to the top casting. I shall have to either make a new one or, possibly, cut and weld this one. That would be a shame but would save me a lot of work. It is cast iron so welding will be a bit of a challenge so I will be seeking advice very shortly.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]119827[/ATTACH]

 

Father had painted the brake cross-shaft so we fitted that and then went on to start on the linkage.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]119828[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]119829[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]119830[/ATTACH]

 

As you can see, there is a very large gap in the clevis which was originally filled by a 5/8" bore Thackeray washer. Unfortunately, these have proven unobtainable. Dad has found some very short springs but their solid height is just too much. I could turn some spacers but they don't feel right either. Please may I have your thoughts?

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]119831[/ATTACH]

 

Not huge progress this weekend but very significant and quite a milestone for us. It is really beginning to look like a lorry now as all of the major lumps are in. We just have to join them together.

 

Watch this space!

 

Steve

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=thackeray+washers+uk&oq=thakerey+washers&aqs=chrome.2.69i57j0l3.8657j0j4&client=ms-android-motorola&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8

I'm sure it isn't an archdale

And it isn't an Asquith or a Fred town

Like I says....I'm going for an ALFRED HERBERT....but Tony at lathesUK has asked me to send pics so he can consult his references

I've got a G. Herbert donkeysaw (pre RAPIDOR MANCHESTER)

And a nice old south Bend lathe...a really good substantial one

I've a pillar drill that stands 7ft high and a couple of bench grinders....plus a horizontal miller

All lineshaft gear

A vaguely similar machine is still in productive use with Keith Fenner:

 

 

(You can see the full majesty of the flat-belts at 23 minutes in)

Mr Fenner has a camelback drill

In fact he gives a good tutorial on flat belt lacing/stapling on one of his utube vids

I've got a staple setter for flat belts by the way....

Re the radial drill: any idea of its maker? I am sure it's not an Archdale but by 1912 they had done away with the belt drive across the top in favour of a shaft up the centre of the column, a pair of bevel gears and the speed selection box at the top and a splined shaft across to the saddle. In 1914 they moved the speed selection box into the saddle. At that point yours would have looked very old fashioned.

 

David

I can't find a makers name on it

But I have seen old images of a similar headstock arrangement on an ALFRED HERBERT coventry

That's interesting. Several of the old Thornycroft machine tools ended up with the Hampshire County Council Museums Service and were used in their workshops when I volunteered there years ago. The HSE visited and had a fit which we thought was very unfair. Everything was appropriately guarded. The tools were just very old and were built with a different mindset from today. Oh well. Happy days.

 

Steve

Theres no drilling damage anywhere on the table...which would suggest a life set up for jigwork

Took nearly 3 hours to get it back to leeds

I've made Tony at lathesUK aware of its existence

It might be possible to weld the sump but this old aluminium is very variable in properties. The chap who has it is very enterprising so I am sure he will find a way.

 

This is the lorry from which it came. I took this photo over twenty years ago in the Thornycroft factory yard. It is a completely original vehicle of 1919 and was still with the original owners at the time. It was later sold, about twelve years ago I think, and the new owner suffered the disaster the first time he tried to start it. Since then, it has been laid up in a shed until purchased earlier this year.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]118906[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]118907[/ATTACH]

 

What are all of the small pipes all over the engine?

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]118908[/ATTACH]

 

I am confident that it will now be repaired and run again although the owner rather has his hands full with other projects for the time being. We shall see in due course. The factory, by the way, has been demolished and turned into a supermarket. Shame!

 

Steve

And what was in that factory (I'm reliably informed) was this:

As you can see it's a radial drill to run off an old lineshaft arrangement and is part of my private collection.

I got it from Winchester and was informed it had originally been installed at Thornycroft's Basingstoke factory.

I have this piece down as 1900-1920

Well, I want to get some pattern making done but I also want to get some unfinished jobs off the bench! One of these is brazing the brake arms to the cross tube. The original tube ahad been bent so Father scrapped it and bored the arms out to suit a new one. Originally, they had been brazed onto the tube. I have little experience of this process but much more with silver solder. I looked into the relative strengths of the two processes and found them to be very similar. The only downside of silver solder is the expense which I decided to live with so here goes.

 

Flued up and ready for some heat.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]118464[/ATTACH]

 

Well, that worked OK.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]118465[/ATTACH]

 

As I was using my biggest burner and my workshop is wooden with a 74" headroom, I decided that for the second, I would do it outside!

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]118466[/ATTACH]

 

Drill through and tap for the stauffers and the lob was done.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]118467[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]118468[/ATTACH]

 

We are without a gear change knob as the original had rotted off of the lever altogether leaving only the special securing nut. According to the parts book, it is described as 'Ebony Change Knob'. I don't have any ebony that big so I opted for a piece of oak instead. I wonder whether they were actually using ebony at this stage of the war?

 

Special nut cleaned up.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]118469[/ATTACH]

 

A nice piece of oak from the stores and away we go.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]118470[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]118471[/ATTACH]

 

A ball shape turned by eye. Don't put the micrometer on it!

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]118472[/ATTACH]

 

I decided to simply wax it as a finish so I held the block against it whilst it rotated and then polished with a piece of paper. I don't use rag anywhere near the chuck as I value my fingers too highly!

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]118473[/ATTACH]

 

Another job ticked off and I am pleased with the result. Just need to do the lever so it can be fitted!

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]118474[/ATTACH]

so..

how did you ensure both them arms were in line?

pre scribe for square on the lathe?