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Posts posted by joeferret

  1. Thanks all. Im trying to get in touch with Khaki Imports....no luck so far but I'm going to try again today.


    The pits in the posts are just from wear, not contact with the rotor. I have seen it before in very old VW caps. The spark eventually wears away a spot which increases the gap. The pits in this cap are right in the center of the post, the edges are fine.


    I did check the wires on top and they are quite firmly seated.


    Best case, I would replace the HT leads as well but since getting these parts seems to be a bit of a trial over here I am not sure how far I will get.



    Pat might be on vacation...Also he has a full time job...Keep trying...

  2. 2 pistons out then I got hungry. Sprayed a load of oil into the other bores so ill get them after breakfast. Been meaning to pick up a air hammer they look very handy. I usually just start with trusty hammer then, blue handled hammer then ye old Faithfull hammer (that's in size order) I suspect a couple will not come out so easily so ill take a sandwich.

    Why not use the latest and best penetrating lubricant instead of oil or diesel fuel...

  3. Hi,


    A big thank you to all those who replied. Some good ideas and thoughts :).


    Patience not being my strong point, a little while after posting the question I returned to the workshop and now I'm back in and can report we have two pins on the floor...cooling down! Not too bad a job, heated one hinge and knocked the pin towards the periscope until it cleared the 'welded to turret part', then the same with the other. Then lifted the lid clear and heated the hinges again and, whilst resting on an anvil knocked the hinges completely out. Yippee :-):-):-). While the lid is off, will free the equally seized latch and sliding bolt....great fun:shocked:.


    Does anyone know if the hinges for the engine covers are held in with roll pins? They too are seized, infact one has snapped off and I expect the others are not far behind!


    Thanks again



    When I got my Ferret all my hinges were frozen too....The front hatch I could barely move with a 6 ft long pry bar...What I did was everyday I soaked them in WD40 penetrating lubricant and tried to move them...After about 25 days or so doing this I switched to PB Blaster (much better) penetrating lubricant and was finally able to move them then sprayed again for days always moving them back and forth with the pry bar working the lubricant in...Go to your auto/truck parts store and talk with them about the latest and best penetrant to use...There are always new products coming out on the market and I try them..Good luck to you.

    Joe in USA

  4. Well today I managed to get my ferret turning over through the starter switch. Wizzes over like a goodin, so nice to hear it turning over as it was sized when I got the ferret. The 'Main Indicator' light comes on while cranking so I have power to the dash switch board. No light on the speedo, RPM dash board I think this could be to do with the wiring connections. Now I need a full set of interior bulbs, both dash board sets and the 2 'Left and Right' interior lights. Anybody know where I can source all of these from or is it Bannisters. Are the external bulbs the same as a set for a 24v landy. Plugs are on order with loads of other stuff, next problem I think will be the fuel lift pump. Have managed to clean the hull plate up, any help as to the year. According to the 'contracts detail sheets' that came with the ferret, it has mine as;

    CONTRACT. 6/FV4267

    TYPE. FV701C

    Mk. 1

    YEAR. 1951

    QTY. 592

    HULL. 7-599

    REGISTRATION. 32BA81 - 38BA73


    My reg. is 33BA93 so looks to be right although someone has my hull No. down as 118. Can anyone tell me what the hull plate refers to please.

    Many thanks


    Nice going Steve...

  5. Thanks Richard, does look like they will fit now I have managed to free off the adjuster a bit more. The old belts that must have been on it before I got the ferret must have been stretched quite a bit as the adjuster was at about half way. As you say, this will have to be taken right back to its full stop and even then looks as if its going to be tight. The manual says the slack is at 1" on the vertical between crank shaft pully & water pump pully. Going to have to take off the ign. coil to get to the adjuster a bit better as the thread is quite rusty. Oh yes, and shall watch my knuckles.

    Cheers Steve.:thanx:

    Remember to really concentrate on hanging on to your tools or they could be lost under the engine....

  6. Thanks for the reply's chaps. I knew you would come good. This is one hell of a forum for information on MV's. Once again thanks.


    Yes it is Steve....We have a lot of old very experienced members willing to share their vast knowledge with everyone....We have members from all over the world and what a great hobby we have and it's getting bigger by the day..

    All the best,

    Joe in USA

  7. Does anyone know of an off the shelf bulb for the instrument panel light? Mine is missing the bulb and the 24 volt bulbs I have from other MV's don't fit. I checked the manuals but I cant find a specific model for the bulb. Any help would be much appreciated!


    If all goes to plan, the Ferret could be moving under its own power this weekend!



    Great that another gets going in the USA..

    Joe in South Dakota

  8. Hi

    Having over the years replaced points and getting condensers that fail and at times self heal I am now considering going against basic ignition and fitting electronic ignition to my both of my Ferrets and to both of my champs.


    I know there is companies out there that will do electronic ignition .has anyone got a good recommendation for the B60 and b40 engine and how much did it cost .


    Another question is with the modern fuel and improved ignition now what has people found is the best ignition timing


    Both the ferrets and Champs are running great having fitted new leads distributors plugs and modifying the exhaust manifold but I know they can be improved and save fuel and increase performance hense the reason for electronic ignition

    Do a Google search for JOLLY IGNITION I hope this helps a bit.

    Also on this forum upper right SEARCH for Electronic Ignition System It will give you some great posts about it..

  9. Hello, i live in Russia, in Kubinka tank museum we have Shir-1 in bad condition, i want make little gift to museum, where can i get hull headlights and armored housing for IR searchlight or at least all dimension of it to weld mockup for tank ?


    I am not an employee of the museum



    tank in 1988, now it even doesn't have headlight, museum installed soviet


    I apologize for poor English

    What a nice thing that you are doing.........Try the "for sale" section on this site also http://www.milweb.net for parts suppliers...Good luck on your project......Please post more pictures of it when done...

  10. I need help with the gear change pedal. There is no spring tension at all. I removed the 4 bolt cover plate and the shaft is rotating the arm under the cover. It also seems to be moving a rod up and down but I cant see down into the oil far enough to see whats happening below. I got the trans for this ferret already out of the vehicle so i have never seen this work before.


    Can someone help me figure out the safest way to troubleshoot this? That spring in there looks quite dangerous. Any tips?.



    That spring is the BUSBAR SPRING and yes it can kill you if you open the cover up without knowing how to properly release the pressure...Your BUSBAR spring came off the rod most likely caused by improper operation of the GCP...The BUSBAR spring and it's rod needs to be properly set up now and hopefully nothing is broken inside......You need to get the manuals for your Ferret...Get all the manuals..One main manual is

    SCOUT CAR,FERRET,ALL MARKS USER HANDBOOK.....In that manual page 119 under Servicing-Gear Change Pedal you can find out more.......What country are you in ?

    Joe in Black Hills USA

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