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smiffy

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About smiffy

  • Rank
    Lance Corporal

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  • Location
    Herefordshire UK
  • Interests
    Engineering and all things related
  • Occupation
    Engineer

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  1. 1914 Dennis Lorry

    I would TIG weld thin aluminium as it is much more controllable than mig , I use gas diffuser nozzles and pre flow the gas to get a clean start and pure argon gas, .also a foot control pedal to control the amps is essential ..With some practice its possible to weld soft drink cans and aluminium kitchen foil If using a mig without a spool gun it is worth fitting a new liner as any wear or dirt in the liner will cause extra friction and balling at the feed rollers and use 1 mm wire
  2. Halley restoration

    My early Jowett car is fitted with a similar oil level gauge . The wire from the float exits the crankcase via a piece of 3/8 bore steel tube which has a cap at the end . When the cap is removed and if the oil level is correct the float pushes the wire about 1.5 inches out of the end of the tube . I will have a look to see what details I have of the float. Mike
  3. Crossley IGL 3

    I only know what works for me . My other interest is clock making and I follow the procedures laid out by W J Gazeley ,Brittan and John Wilding in their books on clock making and repair.. I start with a broken main spring which for the main outer springs I cut to length and machine the slots . This can be done without annealing and retempering . The problem is with the springs that act onto the snail cams inside the unit .These have very tight bends in them . I had to anneal the spring or it snapped when bending . It is then too soft to act as a spring .I heat the spring to a bright red and quench in oil . I then polished them to a bright finish . and heat them until they become blue -purple and quench them in clean water.
  4. Crossley IGL 3

    Thanks to another member on this forum PITT24423 I now have a spare engine .This engine is out of a 4x4 crossley ,the main difference being the sump and as it is of later manufacture the crankcase is cast iron . According to some drawings I have the crank shaft is the same but the camshaft has a different profile . I will look at using the blocks ,pistons and con rods as the ones on my existing engine are not in the best of health . I have finished the simms auto advance retard unit . The springs that hold the 3 cams under tension were past there sell by date so acquired some clock springs of the correct size from a friend . For the inner springs I softened the springs to reshape them and as they can be difficult to get to a even temperature to re temper I lay them on a tray of brass swarf which is then heated . This makes it easy to judge the colour for tempering without over heating the thin spring steel
  5. WW1 Thornycroft restoration

    Very impressed with your pattern making and as always the result look very professional. On the subject of cast ironwelding I have used these rods for gas welding with good results . As already mentioned plenty of pre heating and very slow cooling down .I usually bury parts in cement dust after welding. Our cooker is regularly used to temper springs and pins etc .King pins and spring pins about gas mark 7 and springs anything up to gas mark 9
  6. Crossley IGL 3

    The needle fittted when I brought it has a round shank .I will order some of the correct needles and see what turns up, On this machine the thread is fed down the centre of the sewing head so is different from other machines also it has a walking foot that feeds the material. This can be moved through 360 degrees so you can sew in any direction without having to turn the material round Still working out how to set it up ,so a bit of learning curve Mike
  7. Crossley IGL 3

    Photos of the sewing machine I hope to use to make the leather gaiters with . Made in 1904 and still works well ,just need some leather and to get the hang of using it. The other job today was repairing the hand brake shaft , The shaft was keyed 3/8 but the key way in operating arm was only broached 5/16 and a stepped key had been fitted so made a correct sized guide and rebroached the arm to 3/8 . I can only think that this had been like that since new . The old key way was badly worn and the key nearly sheared Mike
  8. Crossley IGL 3

    I did consider getting the ratchets laser cut but cutting them out did not take long at all and I do try and do everything myself The cupwashers I had made by http://www.cheshireleather.com/contact-us.html They made a very good job of them , turn around time about 7 days . The price was good and very helpful to deal with, even phoning me after I received them to make sure I was happy with them. I have several leather gaiters to make and have brought a singer 29k sowing machine that is suitable for leather ,so a lot of new skills to learn as I have only done metal stitching before Mike
  9. Crossley IGL 3

    When i originally rebuilt the air springs I fitted modern hydraulic ram seals ,I now have obtained some correct leather seals so another job to do The handbrake ratchets were well past there sell by date so made some new ones . I could not work out a easy way to cut the ratchets , a shaper would have been ideal but that is one machine I dont have . So cut them by hand with a hacksaw
  10. Crossley IGL 3

    Have made a bit more progress and acquired some suitable headlamps and just tried them for size. Also fitted up one front suspension unit
  11. Crossley IGL 3

    When I originally found the Crossley all 3 front chassis cross members had rusted away to nothing . I was never happy with the new ones so I made some more. The engine and gear box sit on their own sub-frame that is supported on spherical bronze bearing at each end so any distortion of the main chassis is not transmitted to the flange mounted engine or gear box . The chassis member that supported the front sub frame mount had completely disappeared along with the radiator support member As the chassis rails are tapered the new rails have to be fed in from the rear which is a bit of a pain as the next chassis member is original and riveted in . Fortunately just after the rear of the front spring hangers the chassis is a bit wider and it is just possible to get them in
  12. Crossley IGL 3

    Some years ago I had a few spares cast these included 2 control quadrants ,front bearing caps and oil filler caps just in case I found another Crossley to restore
  13. Crossley IGL 3

    That is a very similar box in size, does it have a quadrant gear or a full gear ? On mine it is a full gear , I assume so that the worm can be moved to a fresh section as ware takes place also on mine the depth of engagement of the worm and gear is adjusted by a eccentric bush which is locked in place only by a tab washer . The advance retard and hand throttle quadrant are the same as some of the Crossley cars I have looked at
  14. Crossley IGL 3

    Thanks for your interest in my restoration . As regards odd mixes of threads the governor springs in the auto advance are held in place by 8-36 unf a real oddball size .The old bolts were well past there sell by date but luckily i had some in stock as its a very difficult size to obtain in the UK The steering gear is of very odd design . The steering box is very light for its application and is of a size I would expect to see on a heavy car not a commercial vehicle Prop shaft is also very basic design
  15. Crossley IGL 3

    As removed the gear box was in reasonable condition mainly due to being covered in a very thick layer of heavy gear oil that had leaked out of the front and rear seals . I replaced the seals and bearings, fortunately the internals were in good order Originally it had been fitted with a pto compressor for tyres and pumping up the Gruss air springs . This had been removed and a pto had been fitted to drive a piston hydraulic pump for a hydraulic tipping body. This had been fitted in about 1947 when the lorry had been working in a quarry I have both compressor and pto complete with hydraulic pump but the body and ram have long gone The U/J are large about 6 inch od and are bronze caps running on hardened pins ,the centre of the yoke is hollow and according to the maintenance chart should be filled with 1/4 pint of heavy oil every 300 miles . The oil leaking out of the U/Js had gone a long way to protect the inside of the chassis.
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