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About smiffy

  • Rank
    Lance Corporal

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  • Location
    Herefordshire UK
  • Interests
    Engineering and all things related
  • Occupation

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  1. This dates from 1944 .contract no 294 /S5134/con23A and 294/23/S2178/con23A for the 3ton 4x4 load carring chassis and contract 294/23/S3035 /con 23A for the4x4 tractor chassis. My IGL 3 chassis is 1937 and Engine no 31777
  2. Engine Lubrication chart
  3. There is no separate oil tank .the sump is in 2 sections with a scavenger pump transferring the oil to the second section from where it is pumped via the auto clean filter to the bearings . The carbon deposits removed by the auto clean fall into a separate section which is drained every 2000 miles via a plug at the base of the filter housing The auto clean filter is automatically cleaned every time the clutch pedal is depressed Mike
  4. The FWD model was not built until 1940 and all models were fitted with a dry sump engine . Do you have a positive date of manufacture for yours ? and what is the engine no . The no is stamped into the crankcase above the front pulley on all the engines I have seen . The no of Crossleys that survive are few and far between so a rare beast and it looks in good order. Mike
  5. The basic engine design remained unchanged from the I G L 3 to the end of production .Early engines have aluminium crankcases this was changed to cast iron due to a shortage of aluminium some time after 1940 . Early engine have a up draft carburettor and a simms magneto .The 90 hp engine has a down draft carburettor modified cylinder heads and a distributor driven via a right angle drive . The bracket remains the same on each engine and the mag or distributor are interchangeable .The sump is modified on the 4x4 to allow clearance for the front axle . Cylinder blocks are interchangeable across all models. . Mike
  6. Try this company http://amalcarb.co.uk/
  7. Excellent work as usual . I dont know how you manage being so far away from the truck .My workshop is about 50 foot from my machine shop and I moan about how many times in a day that I walk between the 2. Mike
  8. Simms SRM4 direction reversal Remove points cover and distributor cap Undo screw in middle of cam Make a small puller and remove cam ,note the letter stamp on the cam to indicate rotation direction Remove backing plate behind points Find the dot on the small gear which should line up with either the L or R mark om the distributor gear and set appropriately Replace cam in correct position remark direction on mag body so you dont forget that the arrow on the oil cap is now in the wrong direction
  9. Yes mag is SRM 4. I think that I fitted new bearing ,but it was over 30 years ago. I do have a few spares in various states of repair .that I will repairing if the need arises. The mag was the wrong direction of rotation when I aquired it, so I reversed the direction . It has a good spark so will leave it alone. I stared getting the gear box into shape to refit fortunately its in fair order , When I started this restoration i 1985 I fitted new bearings and fitted lip seals in place of the original felt seals . The gearbox is a real sod to fit . as it has to be lifted up from underneath and is a very tight fit. . It also sits on a sub frame ,with a carden shaft to the clutch .It was obviously fitted before the cab . I cleared all the bits of the rear to start assessing what needs doing . When I started this project I did a huge amount of work on the axles and breaks etc Hopefully this is still ok but it will require a lot of work to get it to a good standard
  10. Fitted the engine today. It sits on a sub frame which is is mounted in plain bearing at the front , is ridge mounted in the middle and a spherical bearing at the rear. Once the engine is fitted it is very difficult to work on ., even changing the started motor or water pump is awkward .
  11. I only need some tyres to get the truck mobile they would not be used on the road , so will try and get some casings .The new tyres will not be needed for some time yet. Mike
  12. Thanks , I had seen these tyres but was hoping to find some part worn . When I last brought any tyres there seemed to be plenty around but that would not appear to be the case now . I will just have to bight the bullet and buy some . I have promised my better half an extension and new kitchen next year , she might not understand that tyres are more important than a new cooker Mike
  13. My thoughts are turning towards getting the truck mobile as I need to turn it around soon . Can anyone point me in the right direction to obtain 900 x 20 bar grip tyres . The last time I required some was over 20 years ago and they were readily available but now it seems to be a different story. Mike
  14. I have assembled most of the engine .having replace all the manifold stud etc . The exhaust manifold had one broken flange which I machined off flat and having cut a new flange I welded it on using a 29/9 rod
  15. I am referring to the valve timing at tdc not the mag timing which will be set at a max of 30 degrees btdc
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