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smiffy

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smiffy last won the day on March 10

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  • Location
    Herefordshire UK
  • Interests
    Engineering and all things related
  • Occupation
    Engineer

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  1. My Crossley IGL3parts book lists 3 different Simms mags SR4X SRM4 and SR4LE . Mike
  2. Nice repair I tend to keep away from spring powered clocks and concentrate on weight powered clocks so striped teeth are not so much of a issue. i also have a large collection of early electrical master clocks and gents venturi water pressure and flow recorders from pumping stations There are just not enough hours in the day Mike
  3. I do make clocks .but not for sale . When the lorry work shop gets cold I retreat to the machine shop and make clocks First picture is a small turret clock with a grasshopper escapement to Wildings design photo 2 is a part built tavern clock and the other pictures show pinion cutting
  4. The flux I use is acid free and appears to work well .This is the first time that I have used it https://www.screwfix.com/p/la-co-regular-lead-free-flux-60g/797FH?kpid=797FH&ds_kid=92700055281954514&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=CjwKCAjwpKyYBhB7EiwAU2Hn2aVxgW15hCsrqbBx2FRcqPHW26QaXMG8ZYx-obVUykRJqdqia9U9ahoCFzwQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds#product_additional_details_container
  5. The fuel gauge needs some attention .The float is connected to a contrate wheel that turns a small gear that rotates a small magnet this turns the needle . The rest of the gauge is aluminium . The mall gear had a tooth broken and the holding bracket was cracked I have a Leinen L3N lathe which is set up for small gear cutting using direct indexing and a spindle mounted on a vertical slide I selected a gear cutter that looked about right . turned a brass blank and mounted in the chuck . The gear has 12 teeth so I set the indexer to the row with 72 holes and index to every 6th hole I set the depth by bluing the brass blank and the feeding the cutter in until there is a blue line left that about 5 thou thick on the od of the plank . This can be done by moving between 2 teeth and lower the cutter by a few thou each time. When the depth is correct the remaining teeth are cut in a single pass I used a .6 module 8 tooth gear cutter as it was the nearest match to the existing gear I now have to make a new frame to replace the broken one and a new needle as the original is missing
  6. Hi Steve I have wiped off as much of the flux as possible as the work has proceeded but where ever it has touched the steel it has left a rusty stain. The flux claims to be water soluble . The citric acid should remove the rust staining and hopefully any remaining flux , if there is still a problem I will wash with baking soda to neutralise any remaining flux This is all a bit trial and error as I have never made a tank before. Mike
  7. I have just finished the fuel tank The .3 internal baffles are riveted in place with the rivets soldered to seal them and I welded the end plates in . There are 2 pick up pipes one for the main supply and the other for the reserve. on the original tank these were identified by a bit of solder by each pipe marked M and R so I copied this onto the new tank. I have not tested it yet but no doubt there will be some leaks . To clean of the flux I will put the tank in a tub filled with a water and citric acid solution . I am not sure whether to treat the inside with one of the sealers or not /
  8. I folded a 12mm strip on each end of the steel before I formed it to shape .1 end is reversed to the other . The difficult part is to fold the steel so that, 1 the corners are in the correct place and, 2 that the ends are parallel. I spent some time setting up each bend and it came out OK . Next I hooked the 2 end together and placed it over the railway track and using a flatter closed the joint , To get the joint finished it would be best to use a piece of metal with a grove in it the same width and depth as the finished seam . I do not have one and did not want to spend the time making one so used a large cross pein hammer to form the return and leave a straight edge inside the tank Alternatively a wide chisel with the cutting edge radiused would do the same job or a brick bolster would also work . As for the ribs I have not idea how long the original tank was as most of it has long gone . As my rollers are 37 inches long that is the length of the tank .It could not be much bigger as that fills the space on the chassis I am more of a heavy engineer than a tin worker so some of my methods are a bit home brewed but they work
  9. Started work on the new tank by cutting up a 8 foot by 4 foot by 1.2mm sheet of mild steel sheet which was just large enough to get the main tank 3 baffle plates and 2 end plates out of . I marked out the overall size of the tank and allowed enough to do a fold at each end to make the longitudinal seam. Then I marked out the position of the four corners and used my plate rollers to form the corners by clamping it between the rollers to form the radius. The whole operation worked a treat and i ended up with correctly shaped tube . Next I closed the long seam over a piece of railway track to close the seam and soldered it Formed the ribs around the tank using a friends bead rollers and cut the hole for filler neck and drain plug' Next job will be to rivet and solder the filler drain plug and fuel gauge and make and fit the baffles and ends
  10. Hi the gauge is 120 mm o/a and the dial is 80mm
  11. One task that I have not even started yet is the fuel tank ,I have brought a sheet of 1.2mm steel and will start a new tank this week, Fortunately I have the old tank as a pattern and have the original filler fuel gauge and large drain plug. Other jobs have been fitting up the bonnet sides and front mudguards and starting to paint the body work Little jobs include making period hose clamps and starting work on the dash panel .
  12. I had to cut out the 8 bots holding the split rims together so this weeks work has been to make 8 new nuts and bolts . I started with enough material to make each one into two bolts as the head stock on my lathe is too small to let the material pass through and this is the best way that I could think of to make them using the minimum of material. After threading in the lathe at each end I milled a hexagon in the middle and parted them off The nuts I made individually Whole job took about a day and used 4 foot of 35mm En8 bar
  13. Started to get the body panels and wings fitted up . I want to have a trial fit up as the wing bonnet were made about 25 years ago by friend who used to help me before I moved 200 miles away to a new area The panel all need a small amount of fettling and adjustment as over the years they have suffered from being moved around . We never had any patterns to start with so the wings and bonnet are our interruption of what they might have been like. All the parts have acquired some rust in storage and my answer is to mix up a bucket of water with citric acid and leave any rusty bits to soak overnight . This leaves a bright surface that when dry is ready for painting Photo 1 shows wheel nuts that i made some years ago that had been left unpainted and became quite rusty .After 24 hours in citric acid they nice and clean. I buy 10kg bags and use about 1 handfull in 2 gallons of water All the panel etc now need painting and retaining clips etc need to be made so along way still to go ,there is still a long way to go I have a reasonable set of tyres so need to sort rear rims and remove some very old and rotten tyres .I could have cut the old tyres of the rims but the tubes where still holding air and I will use them again ,also I wanted to save the flaps . The tyres are rusted to the rims having laid around for years . The tubes will only be used as a temporary measure Photo hows removing tyres using a short piece of angle iron and a hammer
  14. Its has been a long time since I have posted any thing as have been far too busy working on other projects . One thing that was holding me up was the radiator as one of the side panels needed replacing . I used the good side as a pattern but could not get a satisfactory casting using my home foundry as it really needed pouring from 3 places at the same time which is a bit difficult on you own. . So I took it to a foundry and had one cast . It took them 3 goes to get it right and he told me that every time they do long thin castings they say it will be the last time . Anyway I have a good casting and have machined it and started to rebuild the rad
  15. It might be worth thinking about making some out of gauge plate and then hardening them ,or anneal the old ones then machine and reharden .them .I expect the original ones are carbon steel so well within your capabilities Mike
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