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Tharper last won the day on May 16 2018

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  1. 1914. That very well could be Brake H.P. as opposed to gross. A period test on a 1915 Stutz chassis listed an average BHP of 47.8 @ 1,235 rpm. Max. Torque was 209 ft/lbs. @ 1,052 RPM.
  2. Looking at the specs for the Wisconsin "B" Bore: 4-1/4" Stroke: 5" The bores are offset from the crank centerline by 3/4" towards the exhaust side. Total weight: 475 lbs HP. (ALAM rating) 28.9 hp The ALAM ratings are archaic and its hard to convert to anything meaningful. A graph within the same Wisconsin catalog show approx. 46 hp @ 1,600 rpm In their day they were indeed light, perky engines and when coupled to a minimalist chassis such as the Bearcat you had a real thrilling ride. No doubt lightening the flywheel and playing with the carb and timing would help as well. A twin spark setup was a hot ticket and was well worth the effort. However, like most low rpm engines back then it wasn't about horsepower but torque. I don't have the figures for the model "B" but my 6 cylinder PT generates just shy of 600 ft/lbs at 800 rpm yet is rated at only 104 hp. I am loving watching this project come together! Best regards, Terry
  3. Bob, That's all good news! Wisconsin made a quality product! That valve guide looks great! I had to replace all mine and the valves as well. One of the seats was sunk about a 1/16 of an inch from being ground very, very frequently back in the day. T.
  4. Great work! A piece of rubber under the patch will do. I have a very large (vintage) patch like this on my big Wisconsin. (a large portion of the bottom of the cast aluminum oil pan was smashed out at one time) If any one asks just tell them its a bullet hole from back in the day.
  5. Nice work! Another trick you can do with the paper gasket is give it a quick coat of shellac just before you do the assembly when its still wet - this makes a nice seal and makes the gasket more durable. When I disassembled my big Wisconsin T-head many of the gaskets were original and done this way including under the blocks , the oil pan and the timing gear cover.
  6. A while back my students reverse engineered a magneto coupling used on early Wisconsin engines. Here is a rendering of the assembly. The disk is leather. The splined hub is keyed to the input shaft the eared coupling is keyed onto the magneto. I am not sure if this would help but its an alternative. We have a set of shop drawings and a set of patterns as well. Best regards, Terry
  7. Or.... press start on the CNC mill :-D
  8. In regards to your core boxes.... been there done that! I found the simplest way was to make male masters than use those to cast the actual core box in plaster-of-paris. Love seeing the progress and I cant wait to here that engine roar into life! Best regards, Terry
  9. Today we finished milling out the core boxes for the valve covers for Bob's FWD. Again we used the Tormach 440 (Love this machine!) Now we just need to mount the patterns on a backer board, seal and finish them. The core boxes will be joined together and mounted in a frame and will be sealed and finished as well - then its off to the foundry!
  10. We started work on the patterns and core boxes for the valve covers for the Wisconsin in Bob's FWD. Interestingly the original piece we are using as a "go-by" arrived here in far northern Maine from great Britain via Connecticut. I suspect at least one of you might have been involved with that transaction. Having the actual part on hand has saved us quite a bit of work and... with it sitting on my desk at school (soon to be shipped back from where it came) no small amount of wonder among the students. "A 1917 FWD?? What's that?" Anyway, we (my students and I) started by developing a 3D model using Autodesk Inventor Professional. (I teach Drafting & Engineering Technology to High School students). Once the model was completed we generated a set of 2D working drawings. Usually I would disappear into my shop and turn this piece out using my old 1943 Southbend lathe. However.... this time I decided to use the Tormach PCNC 440 CNC mill we have newly installed in our classroom lab space. Using Fusion 360 we generated the setups and the tool paths then post processed it to PathPilot. I cannot say it is faster than using the old Southbend but it sure is nice. Here is a photo of the patterns ready to be mounted on the backerboard. The core boxes should be cut this week. Best regards, Terry
  11. Not to beat it to death but I thought I would provide some more info on DIY etched plates. I use a product called PNP Blue http://www.techniks.com/ Its used to etch circuit boards. I create my artwork using AutoCAD but any graphics program will work. The artwork is transferred to the PNP Blue using a laser printer. (remembering that it has to be mirrored) and make sure you print on the proper side. I usually make artwork for both the front and back with registration marks. Once folded the brass sheet can be inserted and the ends stapled to from a little envelope. By masking both sides of the plate it allows the etchant to work all the way through around the perimeter and create any holes etc. If you don't do this than you will have to protect the back of the plate. (I good layer of packing tape works well) than cut to final shape by hand and drill any holes etc. The brass sheet is prepped by making sure there are no burrs etc. around the edge and going over it with very fine steel wool followed by a washing in lacquer thinner You have to be very careful not to get any finger prints etc. on the brass. The next step is to transfer the image on the PNP Blue to the brass sheet. Heat is important. I usually heat the brass in the oven. Once the PNP Blue is in position I go over it with a hot clothes Iron (no steam) to transfer the image. A quick dunking in ice water and you can peel the backing off. Front of plate ready to etch: Back of same plate: Any blemishes or scratches in the masking coating can be touched-up with a permanent marker. Then its to the acid bath. I use Muriatic Acid cut with hydrogen peroxide. The trick is to get enough ratio of acid to Hydrogen Peroxide that will allow the acid to work quickly but not lift the mask. I good trick to help prevent this is to apply permanent marker to the cut edges of the plate. During the etching process I make sure to agitate the solution so the areas being etched are always exposed to fresh etchant. And... here it is right out of the etchant and after a quick rinse in cold water. Note the registration makes that allowed me to align the front and back masks so all the holes and the perimeter would be cut through. A washing in Lacquer Thinner will remove the mask. Painting: Yes you can use chemical blackeners - unless the original was done that way I do not. Typically after a clean-up and polish with fine steel wool I spray on the background fill. I like to use off the shelf rattle can enamels. To ensure the paint is fully cured I bake the plate for a bit. Once I am sure that the paint is fully cured wrapping a piece of 800 grit wet/dry paper around a hardwood block I set to work removing the paint from the high spots. Its important to work slowly - let the sand paper do the work not muscle! Sand across the whole plate not just one portion. Also make sure you are working on a hard flat surface. (I have a piece of polished granite countertop I use) I frequently rinse the sand paper in soapy water - this helps prevent galling. Do not over sand! Its fairly easy to remove all the relief. Once the background is in than you can add any other colors - sometimes I end up using a toothpick to carefully "drop" the paint into place. Sand again than polish with very, very fine steel wool and your done. Here is a motometer face I made for a collector. The face has been silvered. I hope this helps! Best regards, Terry
  12. Remember this was a day and age when air cleaners were rare indeed and engines were not far removed from the "total loss" oiling systems. Some T-head manufactures did provide protection for the valve gear - Sterling hid their valve stems and guides behind covers in the blocks. Wisconsin used cylindrical aluminum shrouds on some of their engines that enclosed the stems and springs. Rather than keep out dust their purpose was to contain the "oil mist" blowing up through the lifters to lubricate the valves. Once again... magnificent work.
  13. I ran into a similar type in a 1909 Jackson. The mains were simply machined Babbitt inserts with no backer. They were indexed in the crankcase and caps with steel dowels. Here you can see the aluminum caps and the two Babbitt "inserts". I am assuming they did it this way because of the difficulty of bonding poured Babbitt to aluminum.
  14. You are correct - However, many times you will find these old T-heads with bent rods. As you have probably discovered its very easy to have things jamb-up and the rods take the weight of the block if the pistons get a bit off kilter. A while back I was helping my brother pick-up his airplane after its annual - while chatting with his mechanic he mentioned how with the old engine when valves would stick he would take-out a spark plug, insert a length of nylon rope into the bore. When he cranked the engine over by hand the piston compressed the rope and pushed the offending valve closed. The rope could be easily removed since one end was left hanging out the spark plug hole. Needless to say... one could use a length of rope coiled-up in the combustion chamber to keep the pistons from sliding too far up and popping a ring over the top of the bore. Once the block is suspended upright over the crankcase with straps holding the piston in you could pull the rope out and lower the whole assembly in place. Just a thought.... On another note... its great to see the engine going together - I cannot wait to here it run. You mentioned scrapping in the bearings - are they cast-in-place Babbitt or are the bronze backed Babbitt shells? Best regards, Terry
  15. Its great to see this engine come together! In regards to a gasket between the blocks and crankcase - On my T-head Wisconsin they used thin paper gaskets. They were nothing more than shellac coasted brown paper. The gasket and the block were assembled while the shellac was wet. In fact all the gaskets were done this way. Best regards, Terry
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