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trophy160

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Everything posted by trophy160

  1. I don’t think I would want to be one of the chaps inside!
  2. Is this Saracen wading or swimming?
  3. Well the bottom part is, but the top is thin metal
  4. Thanks Clive, Richard. I’m sure this will just stay on my interesting to have wish list. I’ve always thought that the reverse flow Saracen is extremely vulnerable with regard damage to its cowl. The slightest collision could well crumple it and compromise cooling. Nic
  5. I fancy adding a “paddy pusher” to the front of my Saracen like the one below. Does anyone know the whereabouts of one?
  6. Sounds like a hydraulic leak somewhere, perhaps wheel cylinder. Can you see any signs of weeping from wheels or brake lines?
  7. I agree, smooth hammerite gives a pretty good finish. I did my Saracen with it, I applied it with a small foam roller and the finish is as good as spray.
  8. Good point, if that is the case I think I should be able to test for that by leaving my electric pump on. As the engine's demand for fuel increases so should the ticking of the pump (it's a double SU) so I guess a rapidly ticking pump would indicate that it is working hard and possibly not meeting demand.
  9. Interesting, I don't think I've got that problem as I've fitted an electric booster pump just before the filters. I think if there were pin holes I would hear it ticking away as it sucked air. I tend only to use the pump at start up but it might be worth switching it on when going up hills to see if that makes a difference.
  10. Hi Richard, I don’t think the brakes are binding and I suspect I probably have a tendency to change up too soon when going into 5th. I do wonder however what others experience when doing a (near) standing start at the bottom of a steep hill where you don’t really get the opportunity to wind her up.
  11. Richard Farrant has pointed out that mine being up armoured and with the large wheels will not be able to tackle hills in higher gears. What I’m not clear about is just how fast Saracens whizzed up hills, after all they’re pretty heavy and by modern standards don’t have that much power. Richard has also suggested advancing the ignition a bit so I’ll give that a go.
  12. Having reinstated my Saracen’s reverse flow cooling and replaced a worn out carb that caused plugs to foul I now have a Saracen that completes the relatively short journeys I ask of it (5-10 miles). However, when faced with a steep hill I need to drop it down to third and even then it it not brimming with power. On the flat I only drive it at around 30 mph as I’m generally on country roads, but even on the flat if I do give it more throttle it just feels down on power. My question is, is what I have described normal or should it have a bit more get up and go? Nic
  13. Thanks Clive, I had clearly missed that post Nic
  14. Did NI Saracens have hull shock coils similar to those on the Ferret? I was under my Mk6 today greasing it up and saw a bracket holding an insulator with a wire coming from it that clearly went through a hole in the floor above and a chain that when untangled dropped down to ground level.
  15. Hi Ted, I bought mine 4 years ago, so far no big problems and have really enjoyed owning it, I’m sure you will have great fun with it Nic
  16. Just a comment on ultrasonic cleaners. I have a very small unit and it is pretty useless. This year I bought a good secondhand carb for the Saracen from Richard Banister, but on inspection it was still pretty gummed up inside. I sent it for professional ultrasonic cleaning, it came back looking absolutely new. However, that chap who di it said it had 8 hours in the ultrasonic bath, so I guess this form of cleaning whilst being good does take some time. Nic
  17. Hi Terry, can you describe what you have done on the Saracen Nic
  18. Thanks both, most helpful and the idea of the piece of wood especially so as it becomes a one man job. Nic
  19. Can anyone advise me on the procedure for bleeding Saracen brakes, i presume there is an order for bleeding. Also, is it the case that with the engine running you would just depress the brake pedal prior to opening a bleed nipple, i.e. No need to pump the brakes? thanks Nic
  20. OK, so 10/30 it is. Having googled the detergent/non detergent issue I read that an engine which has been run on non detergent oil and then changed to detergent oil may be asking for trouble. The issue being that all the 'crud' that has been bound to engine parts is released into circulation and may then cause trouble. I'm sure for top up purposes, due to the dilution factor using a detergent oil is OK, but it sounds like it might be prudent to use a low detergent oil. I wondered about this stuff for longer term use https://www.ryeoil.co.uk/shop/universal-tractor-oil/ they are just down the road from me.
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