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Everything posted by ruxy

  1. I hope that the 70+ years old dielectric will still function ! Have you checked the capacitance , the only reliable check will be when 'in-service' ,,
  2. I noticed this Panther crash on news the other week , obviously they are motoring around - just I don't see them. In fact I don't see Land Rovers , the odd FFR radio relay camping site arrangements (adj. A68) long standing with farmers - now just grazing beast & sheep. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-south-scotland-50054720
  3. A189 , a good few years ago - I cruised past a convoy (Dutch I think) , through the Tyne Tunnel , I stalked them as far as far as I could - I was heading -Jesmond. Expecting them to steer west towards Otterburn but they were obviously heading north ? Unforgettable - S1 Minerva types , later Series and Defender ! I don't see anything of MOD interest on A68 at all now. I understood these heavier than TUM were now in air-conditioned storage ? TUL/TUM in main for fuel economy , then better still Wolf XD that they seem to be demobbing. I understand leased Jap. on mission creep into the green fleet, has me puzzled what the Wolf fleet is going to be replaced with , such as radio Clansman then Bowman having been so well integrated !
  4. Yes, I understand a common ingredient of pentrant (mobile) fluids, my understanding is that it is the 'searcher' component as too light to be a carrier. I have at times used NDT aerosal dye penetrant to check the entry possibilities.
  5. In one way - yes , because kero is used as the carrier for graphite , MoS2 + thin oil. Kano Kroil is good stuff but expensive , I use it if DoubleTT fails. Probably DERV is just as good as TT on its own, (seems more oil). However , neat kero 28 sec. - try what I suggest , I would say your blued steel Belleville washers - may even rust tarnish.
  6. You will find that such as WD40 magic is basically kerosene with pale spindle oil added. I understand paraffin is just a more refined kerosene with a dye added. However - try this , place some bright mild steel nails (better still some old worn bearings) in a jar of kerosene to soak overnight , remove them and you will find them rust tarnished within hours - this is because kero is hygroscopic . Diesel , very near on the scale of light-ends is probably better at penetrating, and a good anti-rust.
  7. The asking price to me seems far too high , 1980 - you had trouble selling them for £2000 until you painted a white star on the bonnet , many of these are now sporting what are considered (by some) to be a better set of wheel rims etc. etc.. More fundamental - is it a real unmolested M201 ? or some form of Hotchpotch . I rate a genuine M201 , however - not approaching £17K
  8. Cobalt drills or OK'ish but more easily broken than a standard HSS drill. A few years ago I had to drill many holes , only abt. 3/6" dia. and then C'sk them. I had no long lasting luck with Cobalt . I had been off the tools twenty + years and had never used TiN. I happened to be going to a specialist coater who did for cutting tool manufacturers (as well as gold coloured SS urinals for residents of Saudi Arabia - their motor yachts , apparently crew quarters) . Explaining the problem - I was given a stash of misc. sizes . No need for Rocol cutting paste (RTD) - a single stubby did hundreds of holes dry. Then I used a 'gold' TIN drill to countersink. The drills were at a production stage not marked with makers name of size. The ones I have used since for difficult jobs are the ones grey or purple finished - I believe these must be TiAlN Coated Drill Bits
  9. Totally agree. A MV show is to entertain the respective rivet-counters and Joe public , as well as offer motoring history and general education enhancement for those who wish. Lurking within those lines of Lightweights , you may find a correctly presented FFR with a Unitary Radio Kit equiped with Larkspur or Clansman - that alone is now very rare. You may even find a fully Winterized Lightweight correct in all detail - one of those is like the proverbial , I think it is still the case to view the only Lightweight VPK - then a trip to a show in Northern Ireland will be needed.
  10. The photograph indicates your son's truck is a 88" , therefore IMHO better 16" size(s) are 6.00 , or 6.50 or even 7.00 wide. A good size is 205R16 (206 80R 16) these would be radials and the same rolling dia. (when new as a 6.50x16 , that was the standard on MOD 88". 6.00 . 6.50/205R are the best dia. along with a overdrive , engaged it will be near to running on 7.50's. It all depends on type of locality - hills ? and engine petrol/diesel. To me the only advantage on a 88" of 7.50's (with correct speedo head) is when 'green-lane'ing' to get the extra 1" under diff. clearance. 205's - availability of part-worn rubber , used to be better , possibly not as older RR & Disco breaking is probably now much reduced. Take care with 7.50's - most are 7.50R16 with a massive PR of 10 or 12 , 8PR that are better with 88" are not so common. Avon Rangemaster 7.50R16 were a good choice because they were OEM std. fitment at Solihull for 90" - so well matched for kerb and payload range that is nearish to a 88" , now at reduced factory requirement £ has crept up a fair % beyond inflation. Many buyers of new Defender 90" soon ditched them for bling alloys and even wider tyres - that source of deep tread part-worns has also dried up.
  11. The joys of motoring without a Haynes manual LoL In 1967 I fitted a A Series engine out of a Minor 1000 into a split-screen Minor , well I did when I returned to the scrap-yard to purchase a few extra items , forget exactly - was it front engine mountings or radiator mountings (probably along with a radiator). .
  12. Nice - very, probably not a alternative to a Defender ,used to be manufactured near Thirsk ISTR but since Y2K on a farm near Hexham , production problem there.
  13. There is a load of £rap talked about British MOD contracts for such as the Wolf XD being too small to interest manufacturers. When there was a need (Balkans deep mud ISTR) for military ambulances , then the Pinzgauer was actually manufactured in the UK along with more GS models and IIRC 6 wheeled versions (and many will still be in service). Possibly the Pinz style would meet what the Defender XD offered. This avenue will still be open as well as Jim Ratcliffe's Grenadier ProjeKt
  14. END of line , because it is a monocoque , therefore much more car and less truck. Possibly Land Rover Co. should have taken the bit more than loose change £ that ISTR Ratcliffe had offered for design rights and existing tooling , it may not all come to an end when his total DIY ProjeKt Grenadier arrives , now that the badge name verging on cult status is now meaningless for ex-works new.
  15. It may have been useless for its intended purpose , however I have always liked the slab sided appearance and would love to own one - the Standard Beaverette.
  16. Land Rover Classic , have announced completion of restoration of 'prepro' No.7 quite an achievment in total. I suppose the time will arrive when LRC will cease to function as the supply of raw material will dry up (they only use original (repaired) chassis frames it seems). My £ is that LRC will soon fold as it has served it's company political purpose (continuous manufacture/remanufacture) at Solihull / West Midlands - birth of the new Defender will probably bring about the death. Possibly not as they have arranged for new re-manufacture of some components such as speedo heads & authentic pattern early steel wheel rims. However I recall about 1995 that Land Rover was to take a interest in reintroduction of historical parts from franchise dealers (somewhere I have filed a flier a partsman handed me) , mooted similar since - however s.f.a.
  17. In terms of TUL/TUM XD , the MOD had a excellent package , also the "Supplementary" (Optionals) were all well designed for the basic vehicle upgrades etc. - also allowing selection for the Contract(s) build spec. The XD and Tithonus (extended life LOL) are in fleet decline due to demob. Arguably the ;green' fleet replacement is already late - hard to imagine just what it is to be ?
  18. Will try Silverline brushes , good to have a review as I would never have touched them. My local Ironmongers that once sold only good brands used by tradesmen of all types - seems to be now dedicated to Silverline & most of their stuff is £rap. Although I have had some good service out of their very £ cheap wood augers that have a hex. shank , however they do just hold in a Stanley brace.
  19. Twisted knot wire brushes of a good brand are marked with max. rpm , and you need to be near that . You will probably find for the dia. & mounting thread size that the speed is rated for angle grinders - so a drill is quite useless. The biggest I use is with a Makita 5" angle grinder with back handle for better control. Small - 4" or 4.5 angle grinder for smaller brushes. For the Makita 5" the brush must be abt. 3.5" to 4" dia. Normally obtained from Cromwell tools - however press on too much & they shed wires. Actually - I don't rate them to well, I need to try others for less £ off eBay. Heavy rust , mechanically cleaning - I sometimes use a needle scaler or a range of cold chisels for heavy scaling & then use carbide tip scrapers , drag scrapers I find effective BUT slowish , but sometimes I use Sandvik engineers type. Depending on rust LoL , I find a RUPES Electric Palm Sander (made in Italy & very powerful) with a 40 grit white production paper very effective - then go finer as required. Undercoat , go with the top-coat makers suggestion. DBG (Deep Bronze Green) I normally use a undercoat a shade or two lighter - that is to see where I am spraying TC better, sometimes mixed near to DBG. For NATO Green a dark grey undercoat may be better. Undercoats are funny - brown tends to be the suggested for yellow top-coat. Coach Paint is a bit too oldish, tends to be better with high varnish content. You will be at maximum "base matting" , you may get near to matt , more probably satin - ideal you need a full lusterless. I would use a PU (polurathane) reinforced alkyd - known as FLEET ENAMEL , not so common now. alternatively a MACHINERY ENAMEL (when through dry it is oil and fuel resistant) (Coach Finish is not so good). Tractol (machinery enamel) and Tekaloid (coach finish) are now both made by the same firm, the resins and recipe will be sort of similar. Whatever - I would keep of paint where the suggested thinners is white spirit, you need something a bit hotter - xylene based (more automotive). Both these paints will easy brush or spray. I find FLEET good on big vertical surfaces such as caravans , using the proper undercoat. Dust on top coat , leave 15min to tack then give a double-header or two single passes . All of these more traditional paints , if you want a gloss , then you should easy get a good 'gloss from the gun' . For this with cellulose you need a premium primer (supergloss primer) , celle - the secret is in the thinners, the days of flatting & compounding are long gone. Coach finish (brushing) you can use the even hotter celle thinner in small quantity , otherwise a bit of xylene. Well thinned - white spirit or best turpentine.
  20. Well , I live in Weirddale so only have to go over the tops of the Browney & Deerness valleys. I had better get a £14.50 1 year OAP ticket for unlimited , as only attended once and that was the summer of 1970 ,,
  21. AEC Matador ,, as a kid I used to watch my old mans cousin haul fresh felled timber, logged to abt. 8/10ft. Often beech abt. 3 ft to 4ft in dia. Half the time the front wheels must have been 6ft off the ground and that was on rough terrain.
  22. NB. Transport items (Cultural Goods) over 50 years of age. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/export-art-antiques-and-cultural-goods-special-rules
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