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Everything posted by ruxy

  1. That is a welded tank , from abt. early 1980's the cradle is probably secured like early with solder plugs (would have to check). The mud trap at front fixings area to outrigger tends to get hosed - not a great problem , perforation from outside seems problem near rear mounting as only the keen hose there. Never known the side panels rust through. A good degreaser is meths because it is 100% spirit (ethanol) and £ cheap. Actually ancient dried up petrol can look like rust on tank bottom, I have had this on a very old Honda genny set I purchased , only because it is a collectors item and mint. The tank is now perfectly clean but tinged brown. I kept using WD40 to soak in thinking it was rust , came out like coffee ! I can't see the point of using slosh sealer on these tanks other for bottom and 1" to 2" up sides . The ethanol danger is when the water settles on bottom & you could do a pair for £ of one - bogoff ! Thicker sheet steel commercial tanks , after de-rust , you could get areas of high wastage checked with a NDT ultrasonic thickness tester. Modern electronic ones are now probably quite common.
  2. Abt. 1990 - I took the kids to watch the gliders at Sutton Bank on a good day, they were using a large static winch but obviously unable to get close up . I was amazed at the quantity in time frame launched , most soaring along the edge - to me from the ground they seemed in very close proximity to each other - not what I expected !
  3. I was all over Oz & Kiwi 1970/71 , I had noticed Jap vehicles in Oz , so no big surprise when they landed in UK. The most noticeable thing I recall was when the Subaru 284 pickup 4x4 was imported, the local pub car park filled up with them (farmers sons) - strange thing was they were always a shade of Navy Blue ? In a perverted way - I would like one to restore.
  4. 1:35 I stopped the moovie for the first LWT , unfortunately unclear and can't get the ERM. Travelling - certainly vehicles more interesting in those days , I used to stay at The George Bp. Stortford for a week 1973 , 1978 , 1993/94 - it never changed.
  5. Larry - specifically with the Lightweight / military underseat fill tanks, first you need to identify. Talking 'genuine' tanks :- Early tanks - these were made from Terne steel (steel coated with a alloy of tin & lead) , You should spot the folded side-plate seams easy , the give away is the tank top soldered seam. This often cracks , I re-solder quick heat in out (otherwise the folded lap-joint moves) - using a propane torch & nozzle a bit bigger than micro-bore. First I wash out with Fairey Liquid & boiling water , then I steam with lance of a wall-paper stripper. I have my doubts if ethanol will attack terne , Rolls Royce used it and I believe many cheap production cars - never heard of ethanol problems when Cleveland Discol was available & it was probably nearer E10 than E5. Later tanks - these are welded , the bead runs to me seem gas welded , I doubt if they would use any coated steel such as Zintec , you should easy identify. These tanks - probably will get attacked from inside. btw - the tank I repaired with a coin & Araldite (original long setting time) , I was caravan towing in Wales - early 1980's. 19FM65 , would be original tanks. I laid it up Y2K (with time I would like to restore , have new vent panel & Les. Crome footwells) chassis is VGC and body is mint - just needs another respray with cellulose. I drained the tanks & poured 1/2 gallon of diesel in both - that Araldite repair has held for coming up 40 years ! There are other resin products , for boats - I have uses West stuff. I would consider for slosh.
  6. With E5 (and E10 to come) a real corrosion problem is oxidation + galvanic caused by getting water in the tank , technical - the added corrosion problem is due to ethanol blended petrol absorbing water from the atmosphere, more serious is LIQUID water entering, water droplets sitting in the same place corrode a hole in the base of the tank because water containing ethanol is highly corrosive (to carb float chamber as well). As I see it - a Land Rover with underseat fill tanks is less of a problem than neck fill , you can remove the cap and observe for beads of water rolling under the petrol. Also there should be less danger of water entry than with a neck fill. You can get bad fills of petrol with some water content - that is what to watch for. So in short your tanks are almost as good as car plastic tanks. You could have a scoop device to remove, or a pump suction hose, if the worst comes to the worse you can drain the tank & remove the water easy (providing you do the job in open-air & have containers and keep smokers well clear. The worst problem is a metal tank you can't see into ! Winter storage , run one tank dry after running the other low (say 1 gall = 20 miles LoL) , then run the other tank dry , spray some Triple T in tank , next season - be prepared as change over tap may need a new cork gasket, ISTR instructions with a new cork - a smear of Vaseline helps ,, You could also run the carb dry , you could remove the top cover of 36IV and mop out + check the ethanol has not got at the float. I have had top gaskets for carburettor dry out , totally cream crackered , not one piece bigger than 1/4" x 1/4". Keep tank slosh sealer treatments for non top fill tanks. A word of extra-warning - have wife handy with Fairey Liquid , I have had my hand well stuck removing water ! btw - I have a proper intrinsically safe torch when peering inside.
  7. Not so many in quantity for RAF Contracts. Your 95104647A in the scheme of things is not so far away from my 95104109A (43GF07) GF was Army 1975 to 1976 , if yours was originally Ex-Solihull in Green (and I think not) then I would say DBG , however ISTR RAF Blue/Grey went just beyond 1976. The Solihull Dispatch OUT records recorded colour , but they would just write Green or Blue.
  8. --AM-- was from 1972 to1978
  9. More to point - when approx. did yellow paint stop being used & what was the colour code. The reflex decal strip that came later ISTR I did research to identify make/type for 92KA58 but never obtained.
  10. Like you - I thought Clansman doubtful , age of vehicle - a Larkspur box would be better. I have two Pye Westminster both with RNAS station Dymo call.
  11. Do a history search request with RAF Museum , will state Solihull Ex- Works colour . You must have looked for trace of Blue/Grey ? this is a possibility as it seems a --AJ-- (at latest) due to early features extant , possibly a --AM- :- Rear wing toolbox. Early door bottoms Some glass lens Badge seems metal & is at metal location on grille Possibly a oil-cooler fitted ? AJ's went as far back as 1976 and IIRC , prior AM's were Blue/Grey I don't recall seeing a brush paint job in service, RAF ones in straight NATO Green - RAF always sprayed and the finish was always a little posh as if a bit of varnish added to matt, also they weathered better with less colour fade / loss - I still have 92KA58 (tri-service but always RAF Germany) , also 90" 57KG59 Tornado Falklands full service. 92KA58 - IMHO nil IRR content & may be a Fleet enamel or some aircraft refinish ?? Similar sus. with 57KG59.
  12. My first car (1967) was a bog Morris Mini Minor manuf. 1962 or 63 , a total heap of £rap. I then purchased a 1966 Austin 7 Mini (deluxe with a 2" instrument each side of speedo head) , the engine was blown - so I purchased a ex-police Mini van that was bent BER , swop-out the engine & gearbox . Then I purchased a tripod from 3 qty. scaffold poles + a huge Yale Pullift, there was a trade in fitting engines & radiators from Austin A35 into Morris Minors. By now my parents garden/paddock had the appearance of a scrap-yard. I had people coming offering the raw material, I offered to take away their problems for conservative £ - so myself,old man & uncle would push these Mini up two planks into his bosses Thames Trader tipper truck that transported. I had a few Mini VAN through my hands , I was a source for A Series stuff. Often the vans were ex-police , AFAIK in 60's /70's Mini Van were all Ex-Works in GREY - that was little more than a holding primer. Grey van man days was prior to white van man.
  13. If only you had ERM 36RN62 , the problem would be solved , anyway here is the livery + Careers office on the door. https://www.oxforddiecast.co.uk/products/mini-van-royal-navy-mv032
  14. May be worth investing in a British Motor Museum "Heritage Certificate" however the £ cost would buy you several PITA - rear suspension trumpet knuckle joint kits.
  15. Looking at the well mangled head - that is seriously $hit grade and that would include the threads, hardly Unbrako.
  16. I had mentioned possibility of jewel bearings , found this during coffee break from laying concrete project , seems very interesting - will have a thorough read-up later this evening. http://obswww.unige.ch/~wildif/cars/docs/Smith-jaeger_speedo_repair.pdf
  17. I forget your VRM just now. Certainly --HG-- had Km. clocks fitted, would have to check time-line change point (IIRC up to 1979 , same as change to electrical grouped instrument cluster) - think it was with a HF contract. So if your instruments are electrical then I would say original clock head was Kms. Correct is with 'trip-reset' - do you have ? Km = PRC2605 , I prefer the MPH = RTC5034 (LR Refr. Nos) LWT specific cable = 579435 You need a split rubber bush & P clip to secure at g'box & another at front end , these are important to maintain correct curvature & stop friction on outer Bowden. The present OEM manuf. may supply spares direct ? https://www.caigauge.com/ Like you , I have opened a few speedo-head and found a rudimentary problem soon fixed. Not with LR but had zooming pointers to max. out @ 5mph - found grease gone up Bowden and got in air-gap between the pair of rotating disc (Eddy current) . Seems you need a new glass seal ? I used to get them & new glass from some specialist in Leeds - don't know if still in business, there are a few similar in UK who will stock Smiths. Such as Holden Classic & Complete Automobilist etc. I think to get a new seal then it c/w the glass. Land Rover ISTR non-provisioned items.
  18. It is a while since I hooked up a speedo head , however - your cable does not seem a genuine Land Rover part. Non-gen are rubbish at both ends , often the drive end is not square , it is triangular (no names no pack-drill). The head end (genuine) is grey plastic with a bayonet fix. IIRC a little trigger with a catch hook then engages , the 'recessed ridge' you mention - the hook engages in the groove anywhere 360 degree. I have not checked the part No. you quote but a S3 civvy cable is longer than a Lightweight one , it will work but you need the right curvature & secured to clear the exhaust front pipe. Miles or Km (miles on inner dial) , depending on timeline , it could be branded Smiths or Jaeger and ISTR Land-Rover - all out of the same factory in Wales (after management buy-out - they go under another name). Jewels : jewels movement bearings ? Often Jewels , to a LR person are according to the the small coloured lens jewels . yours should have 1. cold start 2. main beam warning. 3. oil pressure warning. These vary among civvy / MOD LR's . You may even have a re-built head , correct face but movement off another - a good clue , the wheel revs per mile will be marked at the bottom, often they are re-calibrated for change to 7.50 tyres. They are then remarked on face, very tidy by hand with paint ! Exchange units can be built up to requirements using a mix. of parts. There are plain head , nil jewel faces, your case could be one of these - don't forget these were used on other car makes too where warnings were all on the instrument panel.
  19. IMHO , you are not at the right place for all your queries , other than the WW2 military bolt-ons. The civilian show scene for Minx / Rootes - Hillman is quite strong , however not so military. There are specialist dealers / stockist who can answer your clutch / steering queries , parts & quote £ prices. All you need are more or less 'fast movers' that will be re-manufactured. The bellhousing may just need 180 degree rotation ? Better , join a Minx club / forum - there will be plenty of enthusiasts storing spare gearboxes & axles in a bottom of garden shed with leaking roof - some may offer a package of your needs. Living in Argentina , then your £$ security is best via. a bona fide dealer
  20. Apparently International Harvester & built 1946 https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-us-canada-53106441 You often see these bus in films , painted yellow and used as school bus. Well my school bus was a pre-WW2 Bedford or in the main a pre-WW2 AEC , the company had double-decker AEC that had apparently been run into the earth in London area prior to their last gasp over 200 miles north. Military content - obviously the helo-lift , were these K-5 originally designed & built for US military ?
  21. Check the vessel , there may be some factory marks on the shell , Design pressure/ Max. working pressure + Test pressure. If so important - I would expect to find some data. Seems a good Tig weld procedure used - so probably is important. Repeated proof testing not always sound idea , probably not required for lifespan (whatever that is) so + 25% seems realistic. I would think the factory test would be 1.5 x the maximum working pressure for 1/2 hour.
  22. Just needs the bilges pumping out , fastest coble out of Blyth !
  23. Not a trick I would try - because , you would have to well slacken the associated fixings ,you could damage the galv. rainwater channels (new genuine are more or less unobtainium) copy part are rubbish in comparison , also you could damage the rear door-top seal strip and the shark-tooth rail into the bargain (read as for rainwater channels - ££ ) . Into the bargain I doubt if you could slam the doors shut. Into the bargain - if houseproud of internal tub paintwork , btw - the stick hoops are already squeezed in a bit more (abt. 5/8" ) in comparison to a civvy model (compare distance over sockets) - this is all to do with design flog of the max. o'all width being 5ft max. across bodyside cappings. Plus to a certain extent you are pitching camp in the dark LoL
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