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ruxy

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ruxy last won the day on March 21 2018

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About ruxy

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  • Birthday 01/01/1951

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  1. In theory - you should be using a dti (dial test indicator) to set the end-float , although I don't , for the same reason I don't use a torque wrench as much as I probably should.. V.L. Churchill Tools - offered a attachment bracket for dti (with genuine Land Rover part No. - check the rear of the Operation Service Manual). I hardly ever see check-nuts with chisel marks because I throw the disgusting things (they are quite cheap). Many hub nut tools are a very loose fit, mine is a Melco and was tight - that is very good , mine still has traces of Engineers Micrometer Blue from when I filed it to get a nice neat fit. A neat fit is best to get the 'feel' of the first nut. The only good tab washers to fold are genuine ones that are thin and of low grade material that folds easy. Most cheap copy parts are too thick to start with. Put damage down to DIY / nil proper training - a machine tool fitter would never leave his name & address , he would soon be found and sacked. Your hub end-caps will be LWT specific , flat with stud for half-shaft , these axles had oil lubricated hubs, a smear of bearing grease is OK but I also spin the hub and get as much EP90 oil in as I can before quickly spinning the cap on. The cap needs a proper thick 'O' ring , most copies sold are wrong size & totally useless, most claiming to be "genuine" are in fact wrong - possibly due to even the Army 61278 (May 1975) Illustrated Parts Catalogue being wrong, 561981 is correct. if required - best go to a franchise dealership, £ high but will be what is needed , real ones do have a long life - even 50 + years !
  2. That is a welded tank , from abt. early 1980's the cradle is probably secured like early with solder plugs (would have to check). The mud trap at front fixings area to outrigger tends to get hosed - not a great problem , perforation from outside seems problem near rear mounting as only the keen hose there. Never known the side panels rust through. A good degreaser is meths because it is 100% spirit (ethanol) and £ cheap. Actually ancient dried up petrol can look like rust on tank bottom, I have had this on a very old Honda genny set I purchased , only because it is a collectors item and mint. The tank is now perfectly clean but tinged brown. I kept using WD40 to soak in thinking it was rust , came out like coffee ! I can't see the point of using slosh sealer on these tanks other for bottom and 1" to 2" up sides . The ethanol danger is when the water settles on bottom & you could do a pair for £ of one - bogoff ! Thicker sheet steel commercial tanks , after de-rust , you could get areas of high wastage checked with a NDT ultrasonic thickness tester. Modern electronic ones are now probably quite common.
  3. Abt. 1990 - I took the kids to watch the gliders at Sutton Bank on a good day, they were using a large static winch but obviously unable to get close up . I was amazed at the quantity in time frame launched , most soaring along the edge - to me from the ground they seemed in very close proximity to each other - not what I expected !
  4. I was all over Oz & Kiwi 1970/71 , I had noticed Jap vehicles in Oz , so no big surprise when they landed in UK. The most noticeable thing I recall was when the Subaru 284 pickup 4x4 was imported, the local pub car park filled up with them (farmers sons) - strange thing was they were always a shade of Navy Blue ? In a perverted way - I would like one to restore.
  5. 1:35 I stopped the moovie for the first LWT , unfortunately unclear and can't get the ERM. Travelling - certainly vehicles more interesting in those days , I used to stay at The George Bp. Stortford for a week 1973 , 1978 , 1993/94 - it never changed.
  6. Larry - specifically with the Lightweight / military underseat fill tanks, first you need to identify. Talking 'genuine' tanks :- Early tanks - these were made from Terne steel (steel coated with a alloy of tin & lead) , You should spot the folded side-plate seams easy , the give away is the tank top soldered seam. This often cracks , I re-solder quick heat in out (otherwise the folded lap-joint moves) - using a propane torch & nozzle a bit bigger than micro-bore. First I wash out with Fairey Liquid & boiling water , then I steam with lance of a wall-paper stripper. I have my doubts if ethanol will attack terne , Rolls Royce used it and I believe many cheap production cars - never heard of ethanol problems when Cleveland Discol was available & it was probably nearer E10 than E5. Later tanks - these are welded , the bead runs to me seem gas welded , I doubt if they would use any coated steel such as Zintec , you should easy identify. These tanks - probably will get attacked from inside. btw - the tank I repaired with a coin & Araldite (original long setting time) , I was caravan towing in Wales - early 1980's. 19FM65 , would be original tanks. I laid it up Y2K (with time I would like to restore , have new vent panel & Les. Crome footwells) chassis is VGC and body is mint - just needs another respray with cellulose. I drained the tanks & poured 1/2 gallon of diesel in both - that Araldite repair has held for coming up 40 years ! There are other resin products , for boats - I have uses West stuff. I would consider for slosh.
  7. With E5 (and E10 to come) a real corrosion problem is oxidation + galvanic caused by getting water in the tank , technical - the added corrosion problem is due to ethanol blended petrol absorbing water from the atmosphere, more serious is LIQUID water entering, water droplets sitting in the same place corrode a hole in the base of the tank because water containing ethanol is highly corrosive (to carb float chamber as well). As I see it - a Land Rover with underseat fill tanks is less of a problem than neck fill , you can remove the cap and observe for beads of water rolling under the petrol. Also there should be less danger of water entry than with a neck fill. You can get bad fills of petrol with some water content - that is what to watch for. So in short your tanks are almost as good as car plastic tanks. You could have a scoop device to remove, or a pump suction hose, if the worst comes to the worse you can drain the tank & remove the water easy (providing you do the job in open-air & have containers and keep smokers well clear. The worst problem is a metal tank you can't see into ! Winter storage , run one tank dry after running the other low (say 1 gall = 20 miles LoL) , then run the other tank dry , spray some Triple T in tank , next season - be prepared as change over tap may need a new cork gasket, ISTR instructions with a new cork - a smear of Vaseline helps ,, You could also run the carb dry , you could remove the top cover of 36IV and mop out + check the ethanol has not got at the float. I have had top gaskets for carburettor dry out , totally cream crackered , not one piece bigger than 1/4" x 1/4". Keep tank slosh sealer treatments for non top fill tanks. A word of extra-warning - have wife handy with Fairey Liquid , I have had my hand well stuck removing water ! btw - I have a proper intrinsically safe torch when peering inside.
  8. Not so many in quantity for RAF Contracts. Your 95104647A in the scheme of things is not so far away from my 95104109A (43GF07) GF was Army 1975 to 1976 , if yours was originally Ex-Solihull in Green (and I think not) then I would say DBG , however ISTR RAF Blue/Grey went just beyond 1976. The Solihull Dispatch OUT records recorded colour , but they would just write Green or Blue.
  9. --AM-- was from 1972 to1978
  10. More to point - when approx. did yellow paint stop being used & what was the colour code. The reflex decal strip that came later ISTR I did research to identify make/type for 92KA58 but never obtained.
  11. Like you - I thought Clansman doubtful , age of vehicle - a Larkspur box would be better. I have two Pye Westminster both with RNAS station Dymo call.
  12. Do a history search request with RAF Museum , will state Solihull Ex- Works colour . You must have looked for trace of Blue/Grey ? this is a possibility as it seems a --AJ-- (at latest) due to early features extant , possibly a --AM- :- Rear wing toolbox. Early door bottoms Some glass lens Badge seems metal & is at metal location on grille Possibly a oil-cooler fitted ? AJ's went as far back as 1976 and IIRC , prior AM's were Blue/Grey I don't recall seeing a brush paint job in service, RAF ones in straight NATO Green - RAF always sprayed and the finish was always a little posh as if a bit of varnish added to matt, also they weathered better with less colour fade / loss - I still have 92KA58 (tri-service but always RAF Germany) , also 90" 57KG59 Tornado Falklands full service. 92KA58 - IMHO nil IRR content & may be a Fleet enamel or some aircraft refinish ?? Similar sus. with 57KG59.
  13. My first car (1967) was a bog Morris Mini Minor manuf. 1962 or 63 , a total heap of £rap. I then purchased a 1966 Austin 7 Mini (deluxe with a 2" instrument each side of speedo head) , the engine was blown - so I purchased a ex-police Mini van that was bent BER , swop-out the engine & gearbox . Then I purchased a tripod from 3 qty. scaffold poles + a huge Yale Pullift, there was a trade in fitting engines & radiators from Austin A35 into Morris Minors. By now my parents garden/paddock had the appearance of a scrap-yard. I had people coming offering the raw material, I offered to take away their problems for conservative £ - so myself,old man & uncle would push these Mini up two planks into his bosses Thames Trader tipper truck that transported. I had a few Mini VAN through my hands , I was a source for A Series stuff. Often the vans were ex-police , AFAIK in 60's /70's Mini Van were all Ex-Works in GREY - that was little more than a holding primer. Grey van man days was prior to white van man.
  14. If only you had ERM 36RN62 , the problem would be solved , anyway here is the livery + Careers office on the door. https://www.oxforddiecast.co.uk/products/mini-van-royal-navy-mv032
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