agmerlin

Ok thanks for the advice Ron

Andy

👍😊

And many thanks again Ron, I did spend a bit of time after I took the photos cleaning out the muck and realised that the holes were threaded. Fortunately for me I was given a load of surplus nuts and bolts some years ago and amongst them was an assortment of grease nipples but thanks for the contact anyway. There’s bound to be some stuff I need.

all the best

Andy

Thanks Ron, looks like I will have to think again with the cables! Are those wartime levers easy to come by or is there a good modern equivalent? Although I would rather go for wartime ones if possible.

Andy

Many thanks for all your advice Ron. To a novice like me it’s very much appreciated. Will definitely be sending the shoes off to Villiers. Do you rely on the sizes that they supply or do you measure up as suggested on their site for “exact sizing”

Thanks again 

Andy

Hi Everyone,

Me Again!!

On my 3HW I’ve noticed a number of holes around the top end of the front forks. They appear to be full of muck and gunk and I’m assuming that the holes should have grease nipples in them. Can anyone confirm this?

Many Thanks in Advance 

Andy

Hello Everyone,

In the process of renewing the front brake mechanism on my 3HW I’ve discovered that the brake shoes are worn out and the hub is badly pitted. Having absolutely no experience with refurbing brake shoes can anyone advise if these can be bought or sent away for refurbishment, or even if it’s possible to get a kit to do it myself. Also any advice on weather the hub is salvageable, based on the photos

Many Thanks in advance for any advice.

Andy

Hi Ron, thanks again for the info and pictures. I’ve come to the conclusion that   The reason I’ve had difficulty in fitting the cable and rod mechanism is due to two things. Firstly,  the front brakes are worn out resulting in too much travel being needed in the mechanism. Secondly, I believe that the brake lever is of the wrong type resulting in too much cable being taken up. I would be grateful if you could comment on the accompanying photos to help confirm my suspicions.

Many Thanks

Andy

Thanks Ron,

is the adjuster thumbscrew flat on the bottom, as the one I have has a vee shaped wedge sticking out of it which seems odd. (Will post some photos tomorrow) Also does the outer sleeve (with the spring in) fit inside the lug on the headlamp bracket?

Andy

Hi Ron, many thanks for responding. You very kindly advised me to contact Brian Tillin some years ago, which I did do, and purchased his stainless steel conversion kit. I’m extremely embarrassed to say I haven’t done much with the bike for a good few years. (My excuse is that I’ve been somewhat busy with a certain TT18 Canberra cockpit!) Anyway, it’s this kit that I’m now having trouble with. Do you have close up photos of the area where the cable connects to the rod linkage. I’ve put it together how I thought it should be but it doesn’t seem right somehow!

Hi All,

im in the process of restoring a Triumph 3HW and am having trouble with the front brake linkage. Does anyone have detailed photos or drawings of this area? I should mention that when I got the bike the front brake linkage was one cable from the handle bar lever to the brake lever but I’m converting it back to the original part cable, part rod linkage. Hence the general question, many thanks in advance for any help.

Hi Everyone,

i hope this isn't too daft a question!

i've come into posession of a complete gear train minus the casings. I have a spare set of casings that I want to build up as a standby but am wondering if these "new" gears will fit in. They have different ratios to the original knackered set so will the shafts be on different centres or did they just change the gear PCD so the same casings could be used??

anyone have any idea?

Andy

Hi, I have just entered the world of military vehicle ownership. Aways wanted a jeep but not enough space at the moment so a motorbike seemed a good alternative. I already own a classic triumph sports car so I thought a 1944 Triumph 3HW motorbike would make good garage company. Currently struggling to source certain parts but I am hoping the forum will assist. Also looking for advice on how, if possible, to track the motorbikes military history. I do not even hold a motorbike licence so interesting times ahead.

 

Andy

Welcome Andy, from another Andy with a3HW! Also currently without a motorbike licence. Will worry about that once the bike is finished! Seriously this site has been an immense help!

Done, hope it results in some action to bring Eric home!

A couple of photos of WH887

Well, Sywell Aviation Museum is delighted to be the new home for canberra TT18 WH887, "Cindy" many thanks to Matt Buddle for delivering her safely. Matt has done an outstanding job on her restoration and we hope to continue the good work and look after her in the way Matt has done. Pictures to follow.

Well, it currently resides near RAF Upwood and will be heading for the Midlands tomorrow!! More news when it arrives.

Now then Timbo, if you are who I think you might be, then you know exactly what I'm on about

Static cockpit section but electrically live!

Built in 1954 as a B2 and finally converted to TT18!

Fortunately, it was rescued from the scrapman and moved right across the country, then slowly but surely brought back to life!

any ideas yet?

It ended its days in a skip at Llanbedr!

A Canberra will be moving home soon!! Watch this space

Andy,

Gearbox casings that are usually painted inside are cast iron, as most motorcycle gearbox casings are alloy, I see no reason why it would need painting.

 

regards, Richard

Hi Richard,

thanks for for the reply, I sort of thought that might be the case but nice to get that confirmed by someone else.

cheers

andy

Hello All,

has as anyone every painted the inside of their gearbox? A friend of mine is restoring a truck and mentioned he had done this with a special paint inside the gearbox and wondered if it was any good on a motorcycle gearbox?

any views?

all the best

Andy

Hello All,

and another question about the primary chain case! What screws should be used. A fair few were missing from mine but the ones fitted don't seem right somehow! They are slotted and dome headed but are tapered underneath the head. Shouldn't they be flat under the head to help clamp the gasket between the two faces of the inner and outer chain case and should they have washers??

many thanks

Andy