Meekumslr

Hello all, 

The 12 volt horn on my 1956 CD Fordson Thames has packed up (after making funny noises) so I took it apart and one of the internal wires needed re-soldering. I refitted it and it isn’t working. I have a spare but no joy with that either.

The horns are made by ‘Clear Hooters LTD’ and look pretty solid state with little to go wrong.

Does anyone know if you can tamper with these to get them working? Or are there common faults with them?

I must be able to get a working horn out of two!!

At one point, the horn was blowing the 35A fuse.

These things are bloody frustrating.

Many thanks in advance, Neil.

Mike,

So sorry for my late reply too.

I only saw this going through my emails, not the site.

If you still have the K5 head, I’d like a spare for my K5.

if it’s easier (text or WhatsApp), my number is 07580 334427

I can collect pretty easily and drive to you so no issues.

Neil

I don’t know about Waterbeach but I do know about a site near to me, which has the same dodgy history, with a huge amount of buried vehicles, munitions and even biological vials.

I’d love to know the truth behind the Royal Arsenal, Woolwich, London and the stuff buried there (yes, I do know people who saw the vast underground storage of vehicles as well as buried tanks).

I also know those involved in land surveys for the building of Thamesmead and HMP Belmarsh (prison) on top of biochemical test facilities, who chose to shove soil and concrete down them rather than decontaminate them.

so, although many are wondering what the big deal and secrecy is surrounding the burial of WW2 stuff, in the years just after the war, an amazing amount of stuff was buried and wasn’t of great importance in the 1950s but it is now, because they’d rather the land NOT be contaminated.

The whole point now is not the secrecy of tanks, but the lack of decontamination before building new housing projects on seriously contaminated land…. And when I say contaminated, I mean the worst kind of stuff imaginable.

unlike Andy, I don’t have the time to unearth the skullduggery, backhanders over land acquisition, failure to decontaminate after regrettable ‘burials’ etc, but don’t forget, burying vehicles may not be the greatest conspiracy in the world but what they could have put in a sealed tank may be!

some people have asked why they weren’t simply scrapped? Well there’s your answer. You don’t get rid of dangerous unwanted nasties by just burying it because of the water table which rises and falls. You make sure it’s in a ‘container’.

Ive lived near the site all my life and lost count of the horror stories from people who were there,  of ‘buried treasures’. It’s true, they are treasures now, but they weren’t then…. And they are buried for a damn good reason.

like Andy, I wouldn’t just come out with the complete story as huge investments are involved and many powerful people too. I think we all realise that if you upset the wrong people, they’ll let you know.

Many thanks Adrian and 79x100.

That information is much appreciated.

Neil.

Hi Mike,

did all the k5 parts go?

Regards, Neil.

Hello all,

God willing, the Austin K5 will be on the road for 2024 Arnhem and possibly D Day.

A group of friends want to travel as XXX Corps attached to RAMC.

Firstly, would this have been likely with a GS lorry and if so, what insignia should be displayed on the vehicle front?

I know XXX Corps would be a Boar but the RAMC plate?

Or would the truck still be RASC but transporting RAMC kit and supplies?

Many thanks, Neil.

Hi,

did you sell the 1100 x 20 bar grip tyres?

regards, Neil

Eddie, is this still available?

I had absolutely no chance with the securing screws and had to drill them out.

Due to the weather that the screen takes, I think those screws are designed for assembly only, not removing. 
Once I drilled the heads off, I sprayed WD40 in the holes and slid the four frame sides out, giving me the profile end shape.

Im going to the Heritage Transport Show in Kent on Sunday to see if I can chat to some automotive suppliers.

I think you need an ‘end on’ profile to go with first and consider drilling the screws out. Like me, you’re going to need to use a new inner fixing bar and re-tap thread holes in for new screw bolts.

None of this is simple but screens are always the wettest, rustiest areas and I’ve never embraced them… until now.

Many thanks guys.

I will have a look at these profiles and see what the best option is.

I had to drill the corner screws out so have holes in the damaged frame I had so it may be worth making two new ones so they match exactly.

your help is much appreciated.

Ahh, thank you MatchFuzee, I most definitely will need that valuable source of rubber trims.

If I cant find the steel channel, I’ll look into fabricating it with the right gauge.

I know I can make an easier Aluminium frame but I want it as near to original as possible, plus the fact it really frustrates me until I can re-make it.

Good afternoon chaps,

Does anyone recognise this windscreen channel profile from another vehicle other than Austin K5? Or a type of channel that may be available.

I-have done an internet search with nothing found as yet but someone may recognise it.

Neil.

Well, I’ve got a feeling that this will be just another thing that I will do myself due to either a lack of services or a second mortgage needed for the work.

Rootes75, I’ve removed the glass from the frame and see that the 4 channels on each screen are held together with four corner ‘L’ brackets with four screws in each.

I need the original pattern channel, inner rubber seal for the glass edge, outer weather seal (frame to body) and four new corner ‘L’ fixing brackets.

If I source them, I’ll stick it on as a restoration to advise how it went and learning points.

Ive removed the hinge screw bolts but the hinges have been brazed either side to the frame.

Hi guys,

Im looking for a U.K. based windscreen fabricator, preferably In the South.

I need both driver and passenger frames, rubbers and laminated glass for the Austin and have one of the originals with shattered glass but have the hinges etc.

can anyone recommend a company?

many thanks, Neil.

Ooh, really? What is the source or where do I keep an eye on REME?

Thank you.

Hi all, 

im looking for a Dunlop Track Grip 10.50 x 20 tyre as a good spare.

Many thanks, Neil.

Hi all,

I’m  looking for an Austin K5 ‘Castle’ nut, steering arm to track rod and a rear ‘leaf spring type’ tow bar and WW2 hitch.

Any help would be gratefully appreciated.

Neil

Peter, 

Thank you so much but I got some with the spares that came with the Austin K5.

They are the outer (split rim nuts).

your message is much appreciated and now I’ve got to suss out how to delete this post!

Neil.

Greetings all,

I know paint varies with supplier but I can now start my ‘model kit’ and will paint it late war British Army Olive Drab.

Through experience, who, in your opinion, does the most authentic good quality paint and also, what is the paint code?

I will have the more tricky bits sprayed but planned on rollering the larger bits but wondered if rollering would be an acceptable method?

One last question… undercoat? Red oxide?

Any advice on painting would be appreciated.

Im replacing bits before a full cab respray so may as well paint them before fitting (lockers, spare wheel etc).

Many thanks in advance, Neil.

Thanks David.

Well, that’s thrown a spanner in the works then.

It would have been good news if they were generic.

That’s the one.

Ive got the ‘S’ brackets for the chassis but not the spring bar or hitch.

Thats another thing I’ve got to put on the list.

Did you source wood for the rear floor?

Thanks Richard.

I have the brackets so I will just need the drawbar?

I thought they were vehicle springs cut down.

Thank you.

Hi guys,

Regarding tow hook mounting, I have two chassis brackets which hold a leaf spring? For the tow hook to bolt to.

a stupid question but would this have been the vehicles own spring type (spare)?

If not, what kind of spring and how is it fastened to stop it sliding sideways?

Many thanks, Neil.

Thanks Richard.

It looks like it came under them for a large part of its service as the front diff, rear diff, engine and door are all marked ‘ASH’ from 1941 to 1956.

This helps greatly as I now know where it’s history lies regarding maintenance.

I did read it but no ASH but just wanted to know whether that would be the key card abbreviation. I’ve just been looking around again and it’s also stamped on the front differential.