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Aussie

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Everything posted by Aussie

  1. I have a problem with the snap catches that pop out of the bottom of the visor in the drivers hatch (29/30 in the attachment). They have a slotted rod that the opening handle fits into to move them up to open the visor. However mine are rusted solid and I can't as yet budge them, and my tech drawing doesn't show enough detail to know how to dismantle them. Notes say the slotted rd is screwed into the snap hatch but don't know if there is a shoulder in there for the spring. So my question is: can I press/bash the whole unit (slotted pin, spring and locking lug) out in one piece, or do I need to first unscrew the slotted pin? I that case I might have to drill them out and make a replacement. Thanks.
  2. Gave up on the cables and cut them. Jammed solid so hopefully can get NOS. Levered the drivers hatch open enough to get a military jack into the space and used that to get it 3/4 open. Will try heat next. Got more stuff out but won't bore you with that. 101 Ron's query: I later discovered it was on the market for a while, steadily dropping in price so that by the time I heard of it it seemed reasonable (after dropping more). But I got seriously distracted - was looking for a turret for a Ferret but am now besotted! Robin's query re the Ferret: I was told it's a "prototype". It runs a car carburetter (I think Chev) so air cleaner pokes through the top. Wouldn't last long if shot at but mileage is reasonable. No other obvious mechanical mods apart from "normal" spark leads and plugs. More pics of it on my introduction. Thanks Jon - I'm currently seeing if I can get a turret off a wreck and might need help, since it's missing bits (don't know what yet). Can I ask how to get the drivers hatch torsion bar off? I've removed the plate on the right hand end but not sure if I should just bash it to the left with a centre punch? Also, is it feasible/possible to knock the pins out to get the engine hatches off, or best left on. I haven't managed to budge them so far. James
  3. No doubt many more queries as I work on this tired old Saladin. However at this stage: 1. How do I remove the choke and throttle knobs from the shelf in the driver's section - I can't for the life of me figure it out. Should I just pull them off, or screw them out.. Twisting them just seems to twist the cables but those might well be shot, since they've been living in dirt and mud for some tears. I suppose I could just cut them but they might be salvagable. Or do they need to be disconnected from the carburettor and fed through? 2. Can't budge drivers escape hatch (catches are undone). Most likely rust. I'm tempted to bash it but wonder if the hinge can be easily dismantled without the torsion bar in it killing me (assuming it's not rusted solid). Thanks, James.
  4. "Dear Diary".. On reflection, I need to start with the inside - it won't go if the controls aren't working. Shovelled buckets of dirt and mud out, and the control rods near the floor (gear change, accelerator) are shot. Was stuck in 3rd gear but having got all the rods and links off, the gear box lever works freely - a HUGE potential headache gone! Got the drivers seat out with a bit of angle grinding, and today the handbrake - it actually moves but needs a clean. Next the brake pedal and accelerator rods and links as it becomes easier to get further into the driver's section. There's a rubber sleeve on something on the left that's perished but that's for later. It's amazing how satisfying these little "victories" are. Have also removed some tin work and need to decide whether to get that sandblasted or not. Can't work out how to remove the choke and throttle handles from the shelf in the driver's section - will try "I'm stupid forum". Also can't move the drivers escape hatch - most likely needs brute force, since catches are undone, and I'm wary of undoing the hinge since it has a torsion bar lurking. Parts list is useful but doesn't list most of the stuff - lots of cables that need more research to find out where they belong. James
  5. Does anyone have any experience with Hammerite paint? They say it can be painted direct to rusty metal without primer or undercoat, so I'm thinking the silver colour might be good for the interior of Ferrets, Saladins, etc. where the rust is just scattered speckles. Or is this not a good idea? Thanks for any advice. James
  6. Just managed to get this poor old thing in the shed. Seems much larger than I remember and will be a very long and slow project due to other distractions. However I'll start this thread as an incentive and baseline. Came with crates, boxes and multiple packets of spares - no idea what they are but will get a spare parts list and itemize them. Doesn't have a turret: Australian Army had 15 Saladins but put their turrets on APC's. Sold 6 hulls to NZ and those turrets found their way back onto hulls, but the others seem to have gone up in smoke, so a turret is on my wish list. At this stage I have little idea where to start and will be pestering the "I know I'm stupid" forum. However I'm starting with WD-40 to the hinges, then think I'll try getting the tin work off for tarting up that and the outside hull. Inside is a bit too much for me to tackle for a while. Re mechanicals, my plan is to start with the wheel bearings and brakes, once I figure out how to do it. Then probably need to remove the engine.... Anyway - I'll post again when I've made a bit of progress (don't hold your breath!). Also have a Saracen turret to fix up but that's much less daunting! James
  7. This might seem silly, however a bloke in Oz who has done up several armoured vehicles warned me today to not blast but to use paint stripper. Said that blasting damages the surface and promotes rusting. It seems to me that I just need to treat the bare metal immediately - before it rusts - and I doubt that I'd have the patience to fiddle around with paint stripper and scrapers. The responses above indicate no problem with blasting (apart from need to protect bearings, etc) but does anyone think that blasting is a bad idea? Thanks for all your advice, by the way. James
  8. Thanks for your help. Have contacted Banisters for those bits and pieces. Now for the clean up! James
  9. Thanks guys. I noticed Fertan mentioned elsewhere in the forum - somewhere in the tank area. Do you treat with that before priming, or isn't it necessary? James
  10. Having bought an old Saracen/Ferret turret, I'd be grateful for advice on the best way to clean it up for painting. Would sand blasting get it back to good metal, or would needle scaling be better? Or would most recommend just getting to work with a wire brush (though that sounds awfully tedious)? After getting it back to clean metal, what's recommended for rust-proofing and priming? Thanks James
  11. P.S. Richard Banister has advised cutting the plate to fit, since he felt parts numbers were too different. James
  12. OK - I'm persuaded! It will at least make an interesting garden gnome (joking). So.. Any advice about how to mount it on the ferret? If I cut the base, will it just bolt onto the hull, or should I try getting a ferret turret ring? I have no idea how turrets are fabricated, or even it's really a turret ring that I'm after - I'm assuming it's the equivalent of the rectangular base but could be well off the mark. If it is the correct bit of metal (I think I can get one), does all the turret stuff (bearings etc) just unbolt, or is welding involved (which might be a step too far for me)? Also, what's the recommended way to clean off paint and rust, and any advice re particular paint for rust-proofing? Will also need to replace the bearing grease - I guess that's just heavy-duty bearing grease. I also wonder about the slit in the top of the turret - looks a bit bingled and I wonder if it's supposed to have a periscope or sight or something in it. I realize that this is probably the simplest/lamest "project" you've ever heard of, but I'm a really rank amateur and this is uncharted waters, so all advice is greatly appreciated! James
  13. Thanks guys. Will give it a miss. James
  14. Thanks for your advice re this turret, that the seller (other side of Oz) says is for a ferret. I was thinking of putting it on a mark 1 ferret but a forum member noticed it has a rectangular base plate that suggests it's not off a ferret and so wouldn't fit. Does anyone know what it might be off (it's Australian ex-army, I imagine)? Of more importance to me, do you think it would be easy or feasible to cut the base to fit a ferret - or should I just walk away? Thanks James
  15. Thanks so much for the info guys. Fantastic! Now that I'm happy putting unleaded into the ferret, how do I do it? The user manual warns of an extreme risk of fire from static electricity sparks, and warns that the frame must be grounded before refueling, especially at petrol stations. So... 1): Do I really need to be leaning a crow bar against the frame or dropping a chain, etc; 2): Should I avoid plastic jerry cans (ie use metal ones) or is it just if there's a radar nearby? Have had two petrol burns and it not only hurt but I copped it from the missus for being an idiot, hence my trepidation. Off topic, from posts on lubricants I understand that SAE30 is for gearbox and sump, 90EP gear oil for transfer box and ISO 10 or 15 for fluid coupling. My question re SAE30 is: does it needs to be exactly that, or can I use an oil with a range - eg 10W-40 - from the local petrol station? I'm not exactly clear on what oils are "detergent" and whether to avoid these (and if so, how to identify them). (Please let me know if I should have started a new post for this - couldn't see how to).
  16. I'm most likely asking a stupid question, given what's been posted, however please bear with me - I'm a neophyte with a ferret. Was told it needed an additive to use unleaded fuel. However it seems that unleaded is perfectly safe to use and won't damage the valve seats. Correct? Or, do folk with ferrets recommend an additive? Aussie
  17. Thanks Richard - suspected as much. Just engine number(s): with spare I have a choice of B60 No1 Mk6A 10784 (5/66) or 11151 (5/65) but paper says 1388B60N01(!!). Will do some sleuthing with previous owner to see if anyone recorded number before "circumcision", since it would be fun to see where it's been before. However chances don't seem good.
  18. Thanks Richard. Mystery solved! It's great to have such expertise "on tap". BTW could you tell me where I might find some sort of chassis ID details (other than on the now nonexistent turret!). Off to Spain in March but will keep my eye out for MV meetings.
  19. Thanks for the kind welcome. Rego papers say the Ferret (aka "The Hammer") is 1962. There are a dozen dings on the LHS drivers wall and the random distribution is what makes me suspect they are bullet marks. I've attached some pics (hope not too many) because it does seem unusual. It is 12 feet long (not 12'7" as in manual), has no turret or armour above the deck level, and has spare wheels on both sides. Apparently had bullet proof glass "windscreen" when deployed but this is illegal in club vehicles so is now perspex. Non standard muffler and possibly carbureter but otherwise all the expected bits and pieces. Am told it was a prototype, not deployed by Australian Forces but deployed overseas (I have to check this - perhaps Cyprus or Malta but can't remember off hand or by whom). I have no idea what or where the build/chassis number is - nowhere immediately obvious to me. Anyhow, regardless I love it, and hopefully will be able to find out more about its origin. Apologies for the pics background - shed's pretty cluttered.
  20. Hello all (suppose I should have said "G'Day Mates"). My name is James and I live in Victoria, Australia. I'm just a dabbler but recently purchased a Ferret Mk1 and will be pestering you folks, to find out more about it and how to maintain it. It doesn't quite fit the usual description but looks complete, runs very nicely and is road registered, albeit with what looks like a spray of bullet pocks on left inside wall of driver's compartment. I'll post on the appropriate forum when I get back to the shed and take some pics. In the meantime, I've had a look around HMVF and must congratulate you all on the quality of the material. I've already got some "good oil" on lubricants and have no doubt that I'll enjoy exploring further!
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