Jump to content

Aussie

Members
  • Content count

    150
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

12 Good

About Aussie

  • Rank
    Sergeant

Personal Information

  • Location
    Victoria, Australia
  • Interests
    Ferret Mk1 but then "caught the bug" and added a Saracen, Cent and a Saladin basket case
  • Occupation
    Medico getting closer to retirement, so I'm really old enough to know better!
  1. Cleaning spark plugs

    Thanks Malcolm Agree with your thoughts re the plugs and will try your suggestions. James
  2. Ferret Fluid Flywheel Seal

    Not ready to pressure test yet, however wandered down to the local hardware store and found a couple of fittings that connect to my pump inflator after removing the wand. Plan to use gas tape rather than ordinary teflon tape but it's pretty basic, so if it shows a drop in pressure I'll make something a bit more sophisticated, with proper valve, before blaming the FFW. So start with inflator and remove the wand Get your fittings And it should work, but depends on no leakage from the inflator, which might be asking too much - time will tell!
  3. Ferret Fluid Flywheel Seal

    Thanks Richard. On draining I filled a 5 litre paint tin, which sneaks in under the 1 pint top-up guide. Surprising that with that much fluid in it I couldn't see the top level trough the filler plug hole. EMER advises 5.54 litres, which is 9.75 UK pints or 11.75 USA pints. I must say it hadn't occurred to me that UK and US pints were so different! I'll see if I can find a plug to make up a pressure testing connection.
  4. Ferret Fluid Flywheel Seal

    Thanks Richard. Some pics that might help others (and apologies to everyone else!) Drained it - I guess ATF since it's red and actually lots of it. Perhaps the seal wasn't as bad as it looked. As per Richard's advice, undo the bolts then screw 3 into the extractor holes and gently screw them in to extract the bearing carrier with seal, seal plate and circlip. The seal is held in place by the circlip with the seal plate in between, however it isn't possible to get the seal out by just removing the circlip because the seal is firmly pressed in. The bearing carrier snugs up against the bearing and the seal can be seen in the centre: Getting the circlip out was a challenge - very heavy duty and my pliers are probably a bit light-weight. Decided to wear safety glasses and glad I did because when the circlip came free it flew 5 metres across the shed! So much for OHS! This shows the bearing housing, circlip, seal housing and "outside" of the seal. This shows the lip on the inside of the seal plate that fits into the groove on the seal. When it is fitted together it supports the lip of the seal, possibly to prevent it pushing out and failing under pressure. Others have suggested flipping the plate to fit non-standard seals that don't have the groove. If this is done the lip won't have the same support, so at this stage I'm not sure if it's a good idea. Will have a look at the SKF seal when it arrives next week and decide what to do. I'll have a few questions later. Mainly, the bearing housing bolts were covered in some sort of gunk and I'm not sure if that's just thread locker or some sort of sealant. Cheers James
  5. Merlin Archive VRM list

    I'd love to see a more complete list if there is one. The list is obviously missing a few things but I'm particularly interested in Centurion tank 01ZR10. James
  6. Have the radiator, fuel pipes/tank and generator oil leak under control but on opening one of the FFW filler plugs there was no oil to be seen (supposed to reach bottom of filler plug hole with the hole at top dead centre). So now replacing the oil seal but don't have instructions and not entirely sure how to do it. I know it's been discussed before but still not entirely clear to me, so please humour me and I'll post pics and my research as penance and to hopefully help someone else. The fluid is ISO 10 or 15 (warmer climate) hydraulic fluid. Automatic transmission fluid is apparently also OK so long as it's ISO 10 (someone suggested it is ISO 30 but I think that's wrong). Need 5.54 litres, so it figures that it comes in either 5 or 20 litres! The seal needs to be a high temperature (or pressure? can't recall which) seal. ID 44.45mm, 1.75 inches; OD 63.652mm, 2.5 inches, Thickness 3/8inch, 9.5mm. Bought a seal from a local shop but am advised not to use it, as it is black and therefore not high-temperature enough. John Deere AT52447 is suggested as a replacement. The other option (that I'm going with) is SKF Bearings Viton seal 17395; that was suggested to a friend by Tim Vibert, who has more experience than most. The seal is apparently fitted to a plate with a lip that pushes into a groove on the back of the seal, so neither of these seals fit as is. Some suggest flipping the plate so the groove is on the outside but my friend warned that the seal might "turn itself inside out" with enough pressure. Not so sure about that but will machine a plate to fit just to be on the safe side. A "genuine" seal is also an option of course but apparently they're a bit hard to source. Anyway... 1. First job is to separate the gearbox, supporting it (engine lifter and straps) while withdrawing it. So far so good! 2. The seal is obviously knackered so I'm glad I decided to do it before putting the engine back in. (The bolt in the filler plug was to guard against dropping the plug into the housing. Tied a bit of wire to the end but think there's a "proper" wrench available for the job. Came with a resident spider that obviously doesn't (didn't) like my chances of getting it mobile again! So where to from here? Do I undo the nuts or remove the circlip (or both)? Not sure what the circlip is doing, and the drawing I have shows a bearing housing so don't really want to turn this into a disaster! Thanks for any advice James
  7. EMER for Cent Mk III RBJ

    Sorry Paul Those are photos of plates but not sure what manual they're from, and the info relating to numbers wasn't included - so limited benefit! Perhaps someone else will be able to help. The only other bit I found was a circuit diagram which might be useful. Sorry I can't be more helpful. James
  8. EMER for Cent Mk III RBJ

    Not so sure that this is what you're after but it might help a bit. The wires in the terminal banks have a stamped number which helps match them up.
  9. Daimler Ferret steady plates

    One of mine was cut off so making a plate to weld on the top bit, which was fortunately left on the engine. Anyway, here's some pics and a tracing on a sheet of A4 paper which allows a good estimate of dimensions. Good luck! James
  10. Cleaning spark plugs

    Thanks Richard et al. A quick update on my trial of ultrasonic cleaner - it does work but I'm not all that impressed with the result, even after running it for around 24 hours, so it's not the "holy grail"
  11. More Ferret woes, now oil leak!

    Pulled the engine and transmission out with fork lift and chains. Main pain was removing the stuff in the fighting compartment to get at the bits needing uncoupling but really not too bad. Hull was pretty grotty, of course, but cleaned and painted and now looking nice again! Having the engine out it then became clear after a steam clean that the only oil leak was from the generator. First thought the lower oil pipe junction but oil was running down from higher, i.e. the central seal. Filled it with oil but couldn't make the bloody thing leak, however I'm pretty sure that is the culprit and expect it would leak if the engine was running and oil pumping through it, so replaced the seal. No signs of leaks anywhere else... Discovered the left steady plate had been cut off, leaving the upper bit with the bushes, so now cutting another bit to weld to that. Will take some pics tomorrow as another poster was after the dimensions Still have the problem of no mounting plates for the petrol tank, and think I'll put in an electric fuel pump while I'm at it, so still a bit to do. All good fun! James
  12. I reckon this Ferret is trying to tell me something, or drive me mad! It's also distracting me from the Saladin. Recored the radiator to fix the water leak, and cleaned petrol tank and pipes to fix the fuel blockage - all good... But now noticed oil under the left rear wheel. This is an old problem that I thought was a bevel box seal, but on closer inspection the oil is coming out through the hull, not the wheel station, and just running along the floor. I can't see where the oil is coming from. Might be an oil tank connection so I plan to take that out and see if it's the culprit. However, knowing my luck it will be the sump, etc, in which case the engine will have to come out. Assuming that's the case, what's the best way to remove it? EMER's say take out engine and gearbox together but others have suggested unbolting the engine from the gearbox and just taking the engine out. If this is the case, I presume the gearbox should be disconnected leaving the fly wheel attached to the engine? There is a lifting bracket at the rear but can't see one at the front - perhaps the slots at the sides of the flywheel housing (picture above)? Any guidance will be appreciated! Thanks James
  13. Cleaning spark plugs

    An idle thought (no pun intended) - Ferret #2 stopped after idling for a (long) while. while trying to jump start Ferret#1, which is trying very hard to do my head in. No spark from plugs but new ones were fine, so replaced and started on the button. Won't idle it for so long in future! The old plugs are should be serviceable but not sure of the best way to clean them - the side wire looks very fragile/flimsy. I wonder if an ultrasonic cleaner would work but there is a layer of insulation inside the hollow bit of the plug which the ultrasonics might vibrate off. I plan to experiment with one anyway - will just dip the dirty tip in, rather than the whole plug. Anyway, I'd be grateful for advice on how to do it properly. Do I just very carefully rub with wet and dry paper, or is there something I can dunk them in to clean them more thoroughly? Thanks James
  14. (Ferret) fuel tank woes

    Oh dear. Sent the fuel tank off for cleaning and they've broken 3 of the 4 mounting brackets. These consist of two metal plates separated by a rubber bush that is glued on, and those have become unstuck. Does anyone know if the rubber bush can somehow be glued back on, and if so, with what (or by whom)? I might be able to source some if all else fails, but not sure if they're the correct hands. Or any other suggestions for alternative way to mount the tank - I must say I'm not entirely sure that resilient rubber mountings are really necessary, given the small amount of driving done. Thought of putting a bolt through to hold the pieces together and maybe that would work? Thanks James
  15. (Ferret) fuel tank woes

    A mod of the mod! Couldn't find brass tube so bought a couple of joiners: Very light run with the lathe to trim the threads down enough for a tight fit, then hit them in with a hammer. Didn't solder or braze because they're so firmly in that I don't reckon they'll ever budge. Et voila! Edited: Not so smart after all! The hole in the tank steps in, so you need a straight tube to fit it in. Trimmed the fitting on the lathe. Think I'll put a thin bead of JB Weld but they're hammered in a tight so probably don't need it.
×