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Redmat

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Posts posted by Redmat

  1. There are a small number of manifolds listed as suitable for the 28HP on Ebay in varying states and at varying prices!

    My son has a truck with a similar engine which had the same problem. We skimmed the exhaust manifold on a milling machine but also had to do the same to the head as the joints had clearly been blowing for years and this had eroded the mating surfaces, so look carefully at the head as well as the manifold. If you go down the route of machining the exhaust manifold, you might have to remove the same amount of material from the inlet so that both sit together as they should.

    Best of luck

    Alan

  2. My Matador is fitted with the Westinghouse full air braking system. There is not really any back pressure against the foot on the pedal and it goes down to the bottom but the lower you push down the pedal the harder the brakes are applied. When driving you have to judge how far down to press the pedal to slow the vehicle as you intend  rather than rely on sensing how hard your foot is pressing on the brake.

  3. Hi there,

     

    my my name is Matt. I joined this forum after finding pictures of the former Blackpool corporation diamond T. I meyself have a few former Blackpool tramcars and am looking at making a display of them. The diamond T brings back many memories for myself and some of my friends who used to drive her in service. Where is it located now?

     

    many thanks

     

    matt

     

    I don't know where it is located but it appeared on here looking ready for a bit of tlc in a thread a few years ago.http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?7379-Diamond-T-Gallery&p=306808#post306808

  4. Am I right in thinking that the body is the same as a Matador one? If so, many MANY years ago there was a complete Matador body at Job Earnshaw timber merchants at Midgley, near Wakefield. I'm talking at least 30 years ago (I've been in the IOM 25 years) but it was in very good condition then and I think it was raised up off the ground so if it's still around it shouldn't have rotted from underneath. The company is still going so it might be worth a call or a visit.

     

    As Matman41 you probably knew about Earnshaw's anyway ...

     

    Earnshaws moved from Midgley down the road to the former Denby Grange Colliery site some years ago. The original yard is now occupied by houses and as far as I am aware the few matador bits left, basically a pile of wheels, were disposed of. You could give them a call, but I am not optimistic.

  5. I have a parts book which lists tools, etc supplied with the first 1100 or so vehicles. Many of these are special workshop tools, others are what one would expect to find in a kit carried on the vehicle. It is not clear to me what would actually be carried in service. If no one has the information to hand I would be able to scan the pages if it would be of use.

  6. Hi Folks,

    Can anybody help! I am seeking a small piece of steel rod, it measures 4.75 m but I believe that is 3/16 imp , about 7 inches long, I have hunted around various engineering shops and even the local marine engineers, but alas, no smegging luck!! They all deal in 5m metric, but that is just too big! If anyone has a spare piece knocking about I would be very grateful, pretty please! or ... if anyone knows somewhere that sells imp (other than the US) and could put me in touch?

     

    Many thanks

     

    Fred

     

    Mallard Metal Packs http://www.mallardmetals.co.uk or several others who supply the model engineering fraternity should be able to fix you up.

  7. Looks like its almost impossible to match the thread on that pipe fitting ...:undecided:

     

    What a job, sorry to give you all late nights researching all those SAE's UNF's, UNC's, AN's and TPI's :cool2: :cool2:

     

    Ha, silly me thought it was an easy job.

     

    If it rains much more this year, like it did last year I am going to start collecting stamps.................:-D

     

    I am currently going through the brakes on my son's CMP so the time is not entirely wasted. The job is becoming a something of a war of attrition, buying parts as near as possible to the originals, then making them fit- including brake union nuts!

  8. Curiosity aroused, I have dug out a copy of Machinery’s Handbook of 1944 to learn more about SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) threads. There were four categories, Course and Fine series, 8, 12 and 16 pitch series, Extra Fine and Special Pitches. Pipe threads, aeronautical screw threads and several other American systems are not covered by the SAE specifications, at least at the time of publication.

    The Course and Fine series and 8/12/16 series are similar to American standard threads. The Extra Fine and Special Series are particular to SAE. All types had the same American standard profile.

     

    To explain:-

    The Course and Fine series are said to be just the same as American Standards threads, which with some modifications later became UNC/UNF.

     

    The 8/12/16 series had the same pitch (threads per inch) for different diameters. For instance, the 16 tpi series ranged from ¾ “to 4”dia. and was said to be suitable for adjusting nuts and bearing retaining collars.

     

    The Extra Fine series ranged from 1/4” to 6”diameter. As an example a ½”dia. thread has 28tpi.

     

    The Special Pitch series is more complex as each diameter has a range of pitches. A ½”dia.thread can be 14,16,18,24,32, or “for special applications”28 tpi. Each category also has a range of up to four manufacturing tolerances, specifying limits to achieve looseness through to tightness for different applications.

     

    Until today I thought that our Whitworth based thread system was complicated!! :nut:

  9. I think that you would be best advised to measure the diameters of the nuts and use a thread gauge to establish the tpi. I am currently doing the brakes on a Chev CMP which is piped with 1/4" tube. The male threads on the flexible hoses are 7/16 x 20 tpi, which is UNF, but the female ones are 7/16 x 24 tpi, which my Presto booklet describes as NS-"special threads of American national form". A bit confusing but apparently American practice on many vehicles of that era.

  10. Been into 3 places that do brake relines and all of them have said 'hmph, what's that off'? Or 'what a dinosaur', etc. Not very encouraging or customer friendly. Off to try another place that does relines on the premises tomorrow.

     

    Where do people with HMV and vintage vehicles go for brake relines?

     

    I have used safetek - The Cleckheaton branch is not too far away from where I live- several times. They even relined a tiny pair of shoes for a push bike for me on one occasion!

    http://www.saftek.co.uk/index.html

  11. hi welcome to the forum dave do you mean the moors top side of sheffield if so im on my way with the metal detector and shovel , ;)

     

    Be careful with that shovel MW. I've come across the odd mortar shell when walking around Langsett!!

    Dave- Welcome to the forum

  12. Your cheapest route would probably be to buy a CD of the manuals from ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AEC-Matador-0853-Manual-Collection-CD-PDF-format-/280867920297?pt=UK_CarParts_Vehicles_Manuals_Litterature_ET&hash=item41650859a9

    I do not have these but have some on CD or downloaded for other vehicles. It is useful to be able to print off a few pages when doing a job to avoid spoiling an original and, usually these days, expensive original manual.

  13. The Matador maintenance manual specifies 30 H.D. which is, as far as I have been able to find out, what you are currently using. Mine runs on a similar product without any problems. Beware of high detergent oils which can dislodge or dissolve accumulated deposits in an old engine which then have the potential to block oilways etc. with disasterous results.

  14. The trailer never had any signs of an air braking system, nor did any of the others in Glossop's yard. I am not sure what towed the living vans around, the road burner unit or one of the tippers that took away the lifted tarmac but I would be surprised if they bothered coupling up the brakes. They considered the vans to weigh 1.5 tons, so not really a significant load.

  15. I can only find one picture of the van . I bought it from Glossops at Hipperholme where it had been used as living accommodation for men working with their road burners. It is fitted with bunks and a stove. By the time I bought the trailer in the early eighties, the road burners, which were pulled with Scammell Pioneers, had become obsolete due to the introduction of planers. In the yard, about six Scammells were lined up and were for sale at £200 each. As far as I know, no buyers came forward and they all went to Hemmingways for breaking. I don't think any of the other vans-there were about 3-survived either. I was told that a farmer had bought them as a source of tyres and weighed the rest in for scrap.

    Glossops van.jpg

  16. I have a living van which I am led to believe is converted from a WW2 radar van. It has torsion bar suspension and a rounded roof. I am considering getting it out of the shed and towing it behind my Matador and am thinking about how the van brakes would be linked to the truck. The trailer has hydraulic brakes on each wheel operated by a master cylinder/reservoir on the inside of the chassis. The operation of the brakes can either be via a rachet handle for parking or a pull rod which goes along the chassis towards the drawbar end. I assume that the rod would be connected to a bowden cable and through to the trailer brake air cylinder fitted to the rear of the Matador. I would be grateful for any opinions regarding this setup. Have I made the correct assumption? Are the cables and fittings available?

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