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Everything posted by guy66
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The frame profiles are cut for the rear door window, just some assembly. After some trail and error one the first frame now it starts to get fun. Made also 3 copies of the original window lock .
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A few days of work and I full swing on the radiobox box, if I want to get ready for next September 30 corps run I will need to move on. Made the little drawer for the radio table and fitted the looks in the axillary generator closet lid last weekend And now the fun part, trying to replicate the side windows with the sliding part in it. We now have a good idea how everything is fitted but it stays a challenge to make it from the poor remains I have.
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From my data and measurements I took some years ago of a genuine and complete radio box on a Morris Commercial C8 I made the black out box . The aerial insulator is in glass and so the black out box prevent that there is light visible at night from the inside of the operators cabine. When the windows are in place ( hopefully this month) then I can also start on these black outs.
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No big changes to look at but this kept me busy a few days. If you want to get the wiring a bit tidy then there comes some trail and error looking around the corner. Now it's time to make the hidden part of the extra loom to have a detachable rear lamp bar with up to date lighting.
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And now we moved back to the front of the Morris and started with the wiring loom. With these wireless models there are some braided cables on the charging circuits and ignition cables, trying to keep it as original where possible by sliding a new cable in to metal braided sleeve and where it don't work I use new braided sleeves.
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Still some small work in the interior of the radio box , fitted the small cabinet in the left front corner and started to fit the ceiling panels. Will wait with the front ceiling panel till I fitted the spare wheel support on the roof. Just want to be sure that this support is well bolted on to the metal reinforcements of the roof construction.
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Some extra pictures of the exhaust system. Was a bit to shiny to my liking so give it a very light sandblast .
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Some extra work on the window profile, now we have the little lip bolted in place where the opening part of the window slides over. A little fiddly job as the used bolts are only M 1.6 , the rail is only 3mm thick. 🙄
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Trying to replicate the original side and rear window profile, I need to make this of 3 separate piece. Soldered the two main parts together and now need to put the little lip where de sliding part of the window slides onto. Think to bolt this little lip on to the profiles as there wil be to match distortion if I tray to solder this tiny bit ?
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The hand throttle is a typical Morris one .
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On to some platework to finalise some interior furniture. Started with the cupboard shelves and two metal covers for the generator cabinet. Still need to make a extra shelve for the cupboard and will need to adjust the angle les steap for the wood frame of the shelves .
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Hello Chris. These are the desk type lamps that I have in my collection, and think found a suitable Amp meter .
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yes , indeed these sockets are market as 240V , but I don't know where you will find 240V on this setup?
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Hello , if you take the cabin of please don't dump the sliding windows ! I am after sliding windows for my project , if you can send some measurements then I can check if these can fit . You have a great project . Guy
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Now with these short daylight periods I try to do the small jobs on the radio box. Fitted the aerial isolator and now need to make the blackout box for the inside . Cleaned up the courtesy light for over the two side windows.
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Hello Simon. If I look at the wiring diagram from the Morris C4 W/T there they mention about a Amp meter , but I am still looking for the right meter. Think for the moment it will be a dated Volt meter until I find something suitable. But for the moment I just been looking to find a spot for these accessories and when the Morris is on the road I will concentrate on all the rear fittings. Same with the extra control box , this is a latter 24V type and will need to look how I can modify this to 12V ( maybe a 12V electronic regulator inside the existing one)