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ltwtbarmy

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ltwtbarmy last won the day on March 1 2019

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About ltwtbarmy

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  • Birthday July 24

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  1. Someone mentioned Staman regarding Jeep parts in another thread, and not having heard of them, found their website. Looked at their advert for a Rogers trailer and there seems to be a pontoon on it, which is very similar to what is shown in the pictures, albeit a smaller size. What is it, does anyone know? https://staman.nl/ex-army-roger-trailer.html
  2. Following the instructions to the letter and using the stuff provided in the appropriate measures stops it peeling off. If the tank isn’t degreased thoroughly and cleaned with acid properly, the sealant won’t adhere or cure, pure and simple. It’s actually in the instructions which come with the stuff. Most probably, the degreaser and acid weren’t applied properly and for long enough and/or weren’t removed totally before putting the sealant in. When the sealant cures, it’s so hard that you can’t even break it with a sledge hammer (yes, I tried), and forms a tank within the tank. I have done five tanks with no issues so far and all to be used with fuel that has 10% minimum of ethanol in it. The one tank I didn’t do with POR15 was too far gone and had holes the size of 10p pieces appearing when I started using the acid, and therefore discarded and replaced with a new tank. This is not second hand information, but first hand so you can take MY word for it. With regards to your question as to whether all tanks need POR15, the answer is no. As in the case Richardfv432 stated above, if the rust is gone after the first cleaning, and there are no holes, then you’re sorted. Had a Bentley T1 tank the other day, just steam cleaned it, and it came up pristine, so it went back in after blowing out all the fuel lines and replacing the flexible hoses to get rid of the crud in there.
  3. There is one of their members who’s restoring a Land Rover Lightweight by the username of Loulou who is very active on the militarylightweight.co.uk forum, if that helps.
  4. I think Gunze Sangyo made the WC11 model, if that helps. Good luck with your hunt! And yes, you did ask this before, but the answer then was CGM models.
  5. My word! I’ve taken my hat off to you so many times that my arm is now in traction. If only I had one tenth of your skill set. Thank you for carrying out this build, and thanks for taking the time to keep us updated. Well done!
  6. In Richard’s own words -
  7. A 28V 1/2Ton? 😯 That’s pretty much unique! Although I’m not Clive, I do know that they’re 24V , and known as such.
  8. Great, thanks for the response! I’ve been meaning to put this post up for some time, and am glad I finally know what they are. Thanks again everyone.
  9. Do you know anything about these by any chance? I have a feeling that they’re bit later than your area of interest though.
  10. A few years ago, I was going through the back shelves of my local military surplus store, and happened upon these glasses. I’ve never seen anything like them, and haven’t found the particular stores reference, although I do know that the 22c means flying kit. To further confuse matters, the outer label on the plastic case has had the 4604 inked out and replaced with 1751271. Even more confusingly, the frames themselves have 22c/4436 on them. Has anyone come across these before, does anyone what they are for or even know what the abbreviation S.L.A.P. stands for? Bit stumped here. All i know is that they are made by Pilkington, and that the lenses are in three layers. Closest to the face is normal glass, the middle layer is a translucent material which seems to be delaminating, and the outer layer seems to be plastic.
  11. I barely know anything about Fords, however, if I understand what people say in the link below, the chassis number is not on the chassis, because the engine number was in fact the chassis number, but this number is not actually on the engine, but at the front top flange of the bellhousing cover, while another states that the chassis number is on the rhs front. Apologies if this confuses matters. http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/showthread.php?t=30213
  12. Hi Lex. A Dodge tank was the first and that was two years ago. Then I did an Austin Cambridge A60 pickup fuel tank and the Zundapp at the same time a year or so ago. The Xj6 expansion tanks were done in between, but they don’t count since you want to know about petrol and effects thereof on the POR15. The Dodge, A60 and the Zundapp are all filled with E10 unleaded with some lead replacement added. No comebacks from anyone yet.
  13. May I suggest POR 15 from Frost UK? Have done three fuel tanks so far, including a Zundapp one and have had no issues whatsoever. I also use the stuff on Jaguar radiator expansion tanks because they tend to rust easily and have had no problems with them either.
  14. Sorry, I meant cutting the Moke off the rust....... yes, the owner said “just a couple of holes”, which just kept getting bigger and bigger. Wow, that was a job and a half!
  15. Totally agree, definitely face the valves and lap them in while they’re out. sorry, i forgot that bit. Been a long day cutting rust out of a mini moke and my brain is shutting down!
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