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101 Ron

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About 101 Ron

  • Rank
    Sergeant

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  • Location
    Australia
  • Interests
    Military Vehicles,Gyrocopters,4wheel driving
  • Occupation
    Motor Mech,Diesel,LPG,Welding tickets
  • Homepage
    https://www.aulro.com/afvb/101-forward-controls-and-variations/118657-ultimate-fc.html

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  1. 101 Ron

    Ferret Brakes and Silicone Brake Fluid

    Wondering if you guys in the UK are getting the Chinese knock off fluid. The good stuff is purple in colour. May add my 101 landrover has had disc brake conversion and re seleeved master cylinder, as have the clutch slave and master cyl……..again no problems. ( I may add 101 Landrovers suffer from transfer of brake fluid from one fluid reservoir to another due to the design of the master cylinder and seals.....the silicone fluid stopped this problem due to its better sealing and lubrication properties) I have also used the stuff at work on different vehicles and on a 1995 four wheel disc braked defender 130 HCPU all with no problems after directly changing from normal fluid. The US army I think has the world biggest truck fleet...……...I, don't think the US army would take on silicone fluid if it was problematic or would anyone in the US supply it if there was the slightest chance of brake problems under the US consumer laws and litigation. Tests have shown alcohol based fluids do not store very well and loose much of the high temp properties after a year and Silicone fluids don't have the same problems. I wonder if the lower general weather temperatures you get in the UK is a factor as well. Everyone will always have different experiences I guess.
  2. 101 Ron

    Ferret Brakes and Silicone Brake Fluid

    I have been running silicone in my 101 Landrover, US6 Studebaker, modern work van,1960 willys CJ6 jeep for more than 10 years with no problems. I find I get longer seal life , less corosion of brake parts and better lubrication of parts. Silicone doesnt strip paint. Never had a problem with bleeding brakes or a soft pedal. Alcohol based fluids tend not to lubricate and cause rust. Most anti silicon negative reports are old ones based in the 1970s when silcone fluids were first beening developed. The modern purple silcone fluid is made I think 3M or Dupont?...I dont think anyone else makes it regardless of the brand on the bottle besides the Chinese knock offs A yellow chinese knock off is not worth buying. If the brake seals are old new stock, or the system is hard to bleed and and silicone fluid is involved it naturally gets the blame. Any water in the system will bleed though . The presence of water in normal brake fluid as it asorbed into the fluid reduces its performance and why fluids should be bled though every two years Any air in the system will bleed though cleanly with normal steady strokes of the brake pedal. Both normal and silicone fluids should be bled though every two years regardless of useage. Very happy silicone fluid user in all my vehicles except for the ones designed to use mineral oil in the brakes....ie Saladin, Stalwart ect. What is not well known, but not recommended is small amounts of normal fluid or silicone fluid together will not cause any problems. One other advantage of silicone is beening just that little bit thicker and slippery tends to seal wheel cylinder cups better. The only draw back I found in real life if a wheel cylinder does leak with silicone fluid and the fluid gets on to the brake linings it is a reline job while with normal fluid can be washed off in water....................but the rule books say you shouldnt do this any how.
  3. 101 Ron

    Ferret fuel pump

    On a stalwart,I fitted a 24 volt electric fuel pump and got the power supply for it from the housing that has the starter and ballast connections in it. The pump was mounted straight on the engine block where the mechanical pump goes , so the the standard fuel line and fittings where used. So far no problems. Vibs from the engine could make the fuel pump fail, but being a 8 cyl B81 which runs very smooth it has not been a problem and I carry a spare pump , just in case and is a easy fit on a Stalwart.
  4. 101 Ron

    engine change

    A QL is currently being restored in Australia with a GMC 270 engine..........it seems to be a very good fit.
  5. It is not cast. Deep stamped or forged hot from steel bar by the looks of it.
  6. Attached should be useful pictures of the doors with handles. They were taken inside a dark garage with a flash .
  7. I noticed in the previous photos ....... the door handle, it is showing the reproduction item on my truck. Two links to US6 Studebaker vids
  8. The inner door handle and a lot of hard to get plates and cabin fittings were being reproduced by a man in Queensland Australia. The door handle was a die cast type much like the civie car items of the time with a plastic knob on the window winder. Both the winder and inner door handle had felt pad, a chronical spring and plastic covering washer behind the handles much like car practice of the time. The data plates for the whole vehicle Under dash vent handle knob Glove box lid plastic knob Inner handles and backing plastic washers and felts. flat springs for the glove box lid........................................... were all being reproduced to original specs I can post pics in time. I do have some where have the details of the man producing these items , but it was a long time ago and I don't know if he still does them or has any thing for sale. There may be some old new stock in this country, but the inner door handles tended to break often in service. Ron
  9. 101 Ron

    Fuel pump diaphram material

    Try a place that does LPG repairs. Look at the different LP Gas convertor kits they stock. LP Gas diaphragms ...the Yellow coloured ones can handle most hydrocarbons.( the black diaphragms cannot ) Cut the fuel pump diaphragm from a LP Gas one . I have done this and still working fine years later.
  10. 101 Ron

    Cleaning spark plugs

    On my Alvis Stalwart I was having plug troubles mostly though carbon build up. A sparkplug cleaning machine is ideal, but hard to find these days. I have a cabinet sand blaster which I used and done the job. Carby cleaner sometimes will do the job ,but not always. I have found current Australian fuel is causing issues with the plugs on B series engines. Just recently on a rally seen a B40 engine foul it's plugs and it was hard to sort out on the side of the road with no spare plugs. My answer on the Stalwart was electronic ignition and civie protruded nose plugs. I have not had to take out a sparkplug since and have good starting ,idling and no ignition miss fires. Civie plugs are cheap. I couldn't find in Australia the self cleaning protruded nose suspressed military plug for the B series even though the Australian army used them when they first used the series Three Landrovers. The series Three military Landy were later usually converted to a civie ignition to improve reliability.
  11. 101 Ron

    stalwart wheel stations

    I don't muck around anymore with the lining up of tracta joints and them moving out of alignment while fitting. I epoxy glue them lightly. I don't know what true secret was or how they did hundred of these things quickly on the Alvis production line.
  12. 101 Ron

    stalwart wheel stations

    stalwart hub lifter bracket and suspension pin puller adaptors for slide hammer by john smith, on Flickr stalwart suspension pin removal by john smith, on Flickr stalwart hub removal support frame by john smith, on Flickr stalwart suspension wedges by john smith, on Flickr https://www.aulro.com/afvb/101-forward-controls-and-variations/118657-ultimate-fc-52.html
  13. 101 Ron

    stalwart wheel stations

    The pin in wishbones come out OK with the use of a slide hammer and a home made UNF bolt to slide hammer adaptor. Two different size bolt to slide hammer adaptors are needed as different pins have different UNF threads.
  14. 101 Ron

    Stalwart not cranking

    Take the lead off from the coil box to the distributor at the distributor end and crank over the motor with the ignition on and see if you are getting a spark............from memory it is done just by undoing the hex nut on the shielded high tension lead and pull it out. If you have spark coming off the lead to earth while cranking the fault must be in the distributor cap and other High tension leads. If you have no spark you will need to look at the power supply to the ignition coil and check out the ignition points. The coil is in the sealed housing at the fan end of the motor near the rocker cover. If I remember correctly a plate is removed some how and inside is a standard lucas ignition coil and you should be able to access the wiring terminals for the coil and see if you have power to it with ignition switch on. The distributor looks different but is straight forward. ( all from memory again) To access the points low down either side of the distributor facing downwards are two nuts which clamp the lower half of the distributor together.....loosen these off and you should be able to split the distributor and see the ignition points. there are two set of points.......do not adjust them as they are set in a special way.............just see if they have low tension power with ignition switch on and they have a gap at the points.(crank over the motor and see if the points spark) If the motor has not been run in a long time they could just need a clean with a points file just to remove any oxidise coating
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