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About timbo

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  • Birthday 04/08/1968

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  1. Following this with interest as I have 2 Spartans and a Striker to do this job on! As an aside, I have exactly the same T handle hex set as you!
  2. Andrew Baker has loads of cupolas lying around, although I'd guess most of them are in no better condition than what you have.
  3. The spec for these pumps (facet prc1960) suggests they flow up to 32 us galls per hour, which works out at 2 litres/ min so yours is a little slow - but I'm still with Diana on this one - dirt in fuel most likely cause...
  4. Is the vehicle running poorly? Some tick slow, some tick fast - if it aint broke dont fix it!
  5. timbo

    A century of Tanks

    Since the question is about the best tracked vehicle, rather than the best tank, I feel I can safely and justifiably say CVRT of course! Coming up to 50 years in service, and highly likely to make it to 60 years. Think about it - that would be like using a Sherman in 2003!
  6. I watched this a few months back, and felt a bit uneasy about it but found it interesting all the same. In retrospect though I think that article is spot on! Hopefully we wont see another series...
  7. Vince A certain Mr Moss I seem to remember - funny how the advice always comes AFTER the event - if I remember rightly someone else asked 'is it supposed to do that'!!!! Tim
  8. Thanks Andy very helpful I think my plan will be to remove the wheels. The centre right wheel station has a very pronounced bend in the ball joint, which must have happened a long time ago as the wheels are all straight - I suspect it was the result of being fork-lifted pre restoration. I do have some spare NOS wheel stations so I will try and get a spare off them. Anyway the upshot is that the ball joint is hard up against the cylinder on that side so it has to come off anyway... Always something to do! Cheers Tim
  9. Having got fed up with running what is effectively a total loss braking system (ie pour in large quantities of expensive ISO10 which promptly pours out!)....I have decided to have a go at changing the cylinder seals. Got new seals (not NOS) from Richard Banister, and was expecting this to be fairly straightforward. But....for most of the cylinders they seem to be fouled either by the handbrake cables, or steering gear. The brake cables won't come off without removing a roadwheel. Am I missing an easy way of doing this? Also, was thinking about trying to get some seals made in polyurethane, which seems to be recommended for this type of application, but the new seals are quite a shiny, plasticky material so I suspect may already made of this. Andy J if you're out there I think you were going to try a different material - any success? Cheers Timbo
  10. Matt Not only is it the same tool, it may very well be the SAME tool !!!😄 Tim
  11. I was at school around the corner from the Alvis during the early 80's. While I don't consciously remember seeing CVRTs coming out of the factory gates I do wonder if subconsciously something was planted back then. I was also fortunate enough to pick some spares up from Martin O'Neill (something of a legend in his own lunchtime at the Alvis) at the old Baginton test site a few months back. When the site was sold he managed to persuade the powers that be to let him keep hold of one of the old sheds to house his own vehicles. Turns out it was the old winch test shed where Samsons, stollies etc were connected to a big static testing rig. Some really fascinating stories. At Baginton most of the old buildings, including the aero engine test beds, are still very much in existence. The old test track is also still there, but now private property and not accessible, so can't take the Sally for a run round unfortunately! Attached pics are from a previous article in the Evening Telegraph. It is good fun trying to spot what the parts are in the bins in the machine shop pic! First two are Holyhead Road, last two are Baginton...
  12. A bargain when you look at what you get though! Quality of Mark's copies is excellent too....
  13. Agree with all the above but also check the connections in the ignition junction box where the ballast resistor lives. I had one which had worked loose and was only making intermittent contact. Now that was a pig to find!
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