Ron

The Flea at Dutch Lion doesn't look wartime to me. The first and most obvious difference was that the saddle was moved up and back to accommodate the re-positioned tool box in order to make room for the maze are filter and choke mechanism on the WD/RE. The saddle nose bracket on a post-war Flea is more like an upside down 'comma' and the wartime bracket is taller and straight. The embossed 'Royal Enfield' timing cover is postwar and so is the exhaust system with the push on port on the cylinder barrel. The wartime barrel has a screw on exhaust. I notice also that the headlamp and a number of other things are civilian. Ron

No the levers are not easy to come by. I've had to search and find odd parts over a year or two to get a complete set of controls. But Jiri does make nice repro stuff, http://www.vintage-replica.cz/svetlaE.htm Ron

If there's and brake lining spec in the parts book or manual, I would give it to them ( i haven't looked yet). Otherwise I just give them the make and model and they work it out. Ron

Unless your cable is made for that post war lever with its big adjuster, I doubt it will fit right. Ron

Yes those are for grease nipples. The original type were the old straight ones suitable for the Tecalemit pump action oil gun. But for regular use, it's better to fit the modern equivalent grease nipples. They are 1/4 BSF and you can use all straight ones on a 3HW. Available here from Nooky (scroll to the bottom of his cataloque) He's also a cheap source of British made zinc plated Cycle thread nuts and bolts. http://www.nookysnuts.com/catalogue/catalogue1.html Ron

I send most of my shoes to 'villiers services' who will reline them, usually with bonded linings , so no rivets to worry about. and it's not expensive. https://villiersservices.co.uk/index.php?main_page=page&id=9&chapter=4 There are means to get brake drums skimmed, but it's a specialist job, especially when the drum can't be removed and the whole wheel is involved. Also it usually means that the brake linings have to be thicker to compensate. The other problem is that thinish drums as on a 3HW can then distort easily if machined much thinner. In all honesty, if you don't replace the hub, you might have to live with what you've got. I would just run some sand paper around the drum, fit new shoes and then see what you've got.......I'm more of a back brake person on these old clunckers anyway. Ron

The vee shapes are correct and just there to dig in and stop the knurled thumbscrew vibrating round on it's own. I thought there might be some vague divots in the lug for the vee's to locate, but can't see them on any of my 3 Triumphs. Here's one of them and you can pull the tube cap down away from the lug against the spring inside. Ron

Here's a close up I have on file. The cable goes through the adjuster which is mounted through the lug on the headlamp bracket. You then feed on the hollow cap with the spring inside it and hook the cable into the fitting on the top of the rod. Make what adjustments are required to the rod length and connect the yoke to the brake arm and finally adjust the cable. Ron

Brian Tillin made my complete brake rod in Stainless steel (copied from an original). I don't know whether he still has any, or prepared to make any. PM me if you want contact info. Ron

Balance pipe and dynamo problems fixed. Just need some running in weather now! Ron

I've more or less finished the 5SW and it started first kick this morning and runs fine with no rattles so far. I have an issue with a weeping petrol balance pipe under the tank. After draining the fuel and removing it, I can see that one of the nipples has been replaced with one that has a different shaped cone than the other side, and is hopefully the culprit. I've just re-solder a correct nipple on and will re-fit tomorrow. New markings are " Lakota Nation" North Dakota Division.😄😉 Ron

Your footrest looks bent. Clamp the part that sits against the chaincase in a vice so that the next part of the footrest is vertical. The part you put your foot on should be at 90 degrees in both planes to your vice. It's obvious once you set it in your vice. They will bend cold with a bit of tube for leverage, but much safer if you get it cherry red with a welding torch......Bring it to me if you want......I'm near Bournemouth. If your stud is 3/8"? I don't know for sure, but somehow it looks like the brake pedal pivot. Ron

Well I hope that gets answered! I used to buy lovely Khaki 'Messowax' for my British vehicles from R&R Services, but they stopped it in favour of horrible pea green. I would spray it on then brush it over with a soft brush when dry, every few years. Ron

Really any monograde 50 will do, but I've used Morris's Golden Film sae 40 in all my bikes for about 25 years now. It's an all year round compromise between 50 in the summer and 30 in the winter.........This is England! But I pick it up regularly at the jumbles for 16 Quid for 5 lts. https://www.morrislubricants.co.uk/golden-film-sae-50-classic-motor-oil.html Ron

I've seen that bike you're referring to Ferret and it's not as original as you think. The Foo Foo Valve that grinds the smoke is definitely post war and the valve caps are just tasteless modern things😕 Ron

Re-sprayed the tank and got the handlebar and controls fitted today. Ron

I fitted the new rear tyre and tube and the other few parts I was waiting for are here now. This is where I've got to so far. The petrol tank is the last item to prepare and spray.. Still trying to get hold of Peter Long for the field stand clips.......think I might have to try a phone call to Germany? I've fitted an original MT110 rear lamp with a single filament 21W bulb which works a treat with a £2.50 .8 ohm resistor from Honk Kong fitted in the tail lamp line. Which gives about a 8-10W glow to the tail lamp and the full 21W when the brake pedal is depressed......Wish I'd used this trick years ago!! Ron.

If it is cast aluminium, I think the repair would be best done by a professional (MIG?) welder, by breaking/cutting out the damaged area and welding it back in straight. In which case, you would have nothing to loose by having a go at straightening it yourself.....After all it already bent without cracking. I would anneal the area by getting it sizzling hot with a gas torch (don't melt it though). Back up the area with a dolly/ heavy block and see if it taps back to shape. Ron

It makes me wonder why a buyer wades in with such bids, without what seems to me to do proper research? Or perhaps they just believe what the seller writes? Of course it depends how accurate he intends to restore it. A factory correct Flea must be worth somewhere between £5-£6K.......Unless I'm behind the times? To find a WW2 engine, exhaust, carb, strangler, maze filter, headlamp, footrests, tail lamp etc etc etc. Will undoubtedly put the budget well past it current resale value.....Labour not included........But I guess if everyone is happy.........🙄 I have quite a lot of pictures if needed. Ron

I have been watching it out of interest. Ron

Yes post-war civy engine and exhaust, wrong headlamp, levers and quite a bit of other stuff too. Strange spring adaption for the normal rubber band suspension. Ron

Is this the Norton bump stops? Never heard from Rob so haven't ordered any. Can see if he has some with him. How many? Ron

OK Lex....Her name is Judith. Ron

Lex Tim bought the bike from Michel Clements at W&P a few years back. I think the previous Dutch owner had died, but the bike was used for a Dutch calendar while he owned it. Ron

You've got the biggest one I've ever seen.....ooooow Matron. Who knows were the myth will end? Canvas covered petrol tanks??😄 Ron