Ron

Hi Jon We'll probably bump into you in Normandy......Not literally I hope! Me and other members of the 'Indian Riders Club' rode to the Haynes museum a few years back. Good collection and I'm planning to go back by car soon with other mates..... So does this mean you're in Devon-Somerset-Dorset? You'll have to crack on with that M20 as there's only about 6 weeks to go and it should have some shake down mileage on it beforehand. Regards Ron

With the timing set correctly, it's quite usual for it to kick back and hence the necessity to retard the ignition by 1/3 to 1/2 for start up. The engine will usually tick over better if retarded a bit as the slow momentum of the piston is trying to be pushed backwards by the advanced spark and will often result in a lumpy tick over. But you need full advance for normal running. Ron

Firstly if the engine is timed correctly, it should be run at full advance for normal running. The mixture screw is just for adjusting the idling mixture. 1 1/2 turns out is usually good enough. The running mixture is controlled by the slide, the needle position and the main jet. You should have a 120 main jet, a 5/4 slide, a 107 needle jet, the needle No6 should be in the second groove from the top. The plug should be something like a Champion L86C with an 18 thou gap. I think I've said before, A retarded ignition or a weak mixture will cause it to run hot. If the carb is worn so that the slide is wobbling about like a dick in a bucket will never give a good result. Maybe inspect the carb and remove the jet block as there is a tiny drilling in the throat of the carb (see pic) and a corresponding drilling in the jet block which might require poking out with a wire bristle. A little bit of verdigris in these drillings can cause running problems. Ron

OK it was just to confirm that you have a tight wire advance cable. Fortunately with these Triumph's you don't need to remove the timing cover or need a special puller to release the mag pinion. First thing to do (if you haven't already) is make a gauge. Use a thin rod/spoke/Allen key/ drinking straw through the timing hole on top of the head. Sight it exactly against one of the fins and mark it exactly at TDC. Now mark it again at 5/16" (8mm) above your first mark. Set the engine so you know it's at roughly TDC on compression stroke (both valves closed) With a 1/4 Whit socket on a short extension bar through the hole in the timing cover, undo the pinion nut which will also act as the puller. Leave the pinion and socket hanging there once it's released. Now turn the engine backwards a bit to BTDC and then bring it forward again until the top mark on your gauge is sighted against your datum fin (5/16" BTDC) Make sure your handlebar lever is fully towards you (tight wire, fully advanced) and that you have a 12 thou gap when the points are fully open. Now turn your points block in a clockwise direction until the points just break which will be at around the 10 o'clock position. I use a 1 1/2 thou feeler gauge but traditionally it's a fag paper. Turn the points gently until the paper is just released and that is where you gently nip up the pinion. Now turn the engine over 2 revolutions and double check it. If you get it spot on first time, you are a better man than me Gunga Pooch! I've taken 6-12 times to get it spot on on various bikes. Finely nip the pinion nut tight. With modern petrol and the ability to retard it at the handlebar if necessary, I think it's acceptable to be a bit advanced, so if the piston arrived at 9mm BTDC when the points break, I'd be happy. Good luck. Ron

Steve if your ignition is happening on the down stroke ATDC then your timing is seriously retarded and no wonder it's running hot. DO NOT run it like that again. I can easily talk you through it, but can you first post a picture of the points side of your mag. Ron

Yes Graham. Both mine have 9 or 10 coils. But the saddles on mine have a bar under the saddle where the spring tops mount which is lower than Steve's mounting points, which effectively raises the height. Ron

I just wipe a finger full of Holts Exhaust assembly paste around all joints. I've noticed that they use it in car exhaust fit centers. It's just like white toothpaste but sets hardish but always crumbles away on disassembly. Ron https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HOLTS-FIREGUM-EXHAUST-ASSEMBLY-PASTE-150g-SEALS-JOINTS-/130558032711

Double check the ignition timing! If it's getting that hot, it might be too retarded. Here is my (SV) painted exhaust after 400 miles. I'm using this spray paint which I'm sure I recommended before. https://www.firwood.co.uk/categories/heat-resistant-paints/product/firwood-75-high-temperature-resisting-paint/75 Unfortunately you can only buy it in '6 packs' which I've shared with a mate. Ron

HARLEY!!??? What are you like? The cam gear on my 5SW is a bit rattly. But since the cams are good and the worn bushes have been replaced, I've put it down as quite normal. There will always be a clack from the gear teeth as the backlash in changed at the point where the cam is pushing open the valve to where it is then being pushed by the closing valve......If that description makes sense? The main rattle from mine when I acquired the bike and after further investigation, was that the small end bush was loose (wobbling) in the con-rod, which in turn had scuffed the piston.............New bush - file scuffs from piston - new rings - and light hone has done the trick. Ron

Steve one thing I've noticed before you ride it. Your saddle looks awfully close to the mudguard?? It could be just camera angle?Any bump in the road could mean a coming together otherwise. Ron

Looking purdy Steve. Is it running yet? I've clocked 400 miles on my 5SW and got used to the upside down gear shift, so I'm calling that "fit for duty" and Normandy after a pre departure check/adjust/grease up. As it happens we're hosting an "Indian Riders" rally over Easter and I'm leading two runs on a bike with standard box, so will be constantly thinking about gear shifts again.🤔 Ron

I doubt that Jan can do anything with that Lex. Drop it at my place on your next visit and I'll use it as a step up. 😏 Ron

Dave Tann makes perfect replica WD headlamp glasses complete with 'DEFUSA' logo 6" or 8" alliedglass123@gmail.com For stencils I use Platicote matt white rattle cans which come in handy small cans off ebay. I also have a selection of gloss colours for unit markings. (All stencils from Axholme signs) Ron https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PLASTI-KOTE-FAST-DRY-ENAMEL-SPRAY-PAINT-100ML-27-COLORS-NEW-ROSE-GOLD-AEROSOL/182598198699?epid=907194563&hash=item2a83b365ab:m:mYbKU1Mzb87h9yMnAvVWgAw

I think they're called 'tail enders' and should be available from any of the Jeep dealers. Try http://www.jeeparts.co.uk/Jeeparts/home.php?xid=eed52dccdc8c9c556bf4c82ec16de2c7 Ron

PS you just need one of Jan's 'Baguette Carriers' now. 😊 Ron

No shell bearings on these! Roller bearings are very forgiving and don't really need much running in. But the bore and piston rings if new, need to be run in. 400-500 miles of careful riding should bed the rings in ok, and I change the oil after the first 100-200 miles. These Triumph SV's have a very large 8 thou piston skirt to bore clearance for some reason. I use Morris Golden film classis 40 in all my bikes engines, all year round as a compromise between 50 in summer and 30 in winter. To keep things simple....It works for me, but oil debates can be long and tedious!! I buy it at jumbles for £16-17 (5 liters). Ron

Well done Steve. Good luck with the test run. Ron

Jan is producing exact copies of the rear carriers from the sample I loaned him. An awful lot of work and fixtures made for these as you can imagine and here is the nearly finished result. Jan might step in with interesting pictures of the process. Contact Jan direct or PM me for his details. Ron

Position of badge! I'm not sure if I still have a spare one? Ron

Steve if you tacked a little plate over the filter hose gully and body filled over it (Can be removed at a later date) and stuck a Triumph badge with two dummy screw heads to the tank top, no one would know the difference. Ron

It was quite a while ago, but Brian Tillin made mine.... brian.tillin@icloud.com ... Ron.

It's exactly what I've done over the years! Fitted what I can, then change them as time goes by and the correct things become available. My two Norton's have eventually got their right levers after 3 complete changes. Mostly because of gathering the knowledge of what I needed and what to hunt for. My Matchless G3 has the wrong (Amal) valve lift lever, and I dumped the correct Bowden lever before I realized I needed it. Doh! Ron

PS. I see Mark Upham has several lever https://www.vintage-motorcycle.com/index.php?language=en&site=4&pid=386&id=19429&limit=0 Ron

It looks like Bowden or Doherty. Very usable indeed, although originally, Amal levers with the single screw pivot clamp and ball ends were used. Ron

There's plenty on ebay but I can't remember the watage? I guess 8W would give you a reasonable running light without using the headlamp bulb. Ron [ https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-x-4115-6v-8w-BA15S-6-Volt-Motorbike-Motorcycle-Scooter-Classic-Car-Bulbs/231072273220?epid=19016563241&hash=item35ccfb1344:g:MNsAAOSw2fRaqUxT https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-x-293-6v-4w-BA9S-6-Volt-Motorcycle-Motorbike-Classic-Car-Bulb/222906824756?hash=item33e6483834:g:PwsAAOSwdOdci87r PS these are quite expensive so shop around. I usually buy mine from Brit Bits or at jumbles