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Ron

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Ron last won the day on December 7 2018

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About Ron

  • Rank
    Lieutenant-Colonel
  • Birthday December 15

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  • Location
    Poole UK
  • Interests
    Collecting WW2 British vehicles for over 30 years and especially passionate about motorcycles.
  • Occupation
    retired

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  1. Firstly if the engine is timed correctly, it should be run at full advance for normal running. The mixture screw is just for adjusting the idling mixture. 1 1/2 turns out is usually good enough. The running mixture is controlled by the slide, the needle position and the main jet. You should have a 120 main jet, a 5/4 slide, a 107 needle jet, the needle No6 should be in the second groove from the top. The plug should be something like a Champion L86C with an 18 thou gap. I think I've said before, A retarded ignition or a weak mixture will cause it to run hot. If the carb is worn so that the slide is wobbling about like a dick in a bucket will never give a good result. Maybe inspect the carb and remove the jet block as there is a tiny drilling in the throat of the carb (see pic) and a corresponding drilling in the jet block which might require poking out with a wire bristle. A little bit of verdigris in these drillings can cause running problems. Ron
  2. OK it was just to confirm that you have a tight wire advance cable. Fortunately with these Triumph's you don't need to remove the timing cover or need a special puller to release the mag pinion. First thing to do (if you haven't already) is make a gauge. Use a thin rod/spoke/Allen key/ drinking straw through the timing hole on top of the head. Sight it exactly against one of the fins and mark it exactly at TDC. Now mark it again at 5/16" (8mm) above your first mark. Set the engine so you know it's at roughly TDC on compression stroke (both valves closed) With a 1/4 Whit socket on a short extension bar through the hole in the timing cover, undo the pinion nut which will also act as the puller. Leave the pinion and socket hanging there once it's released. Now turn the engine backwards a bit to BTDC and then bring it forward again until the top mark on your gauge is sighted against your datum fin (5/16" BTDC) Make sure your handlebar lever is fully towards you (tight wire, fully advanced) and that you have a 12 thou gap when the points are fully open. Now turn your points block in a clockwise direction until the points just break which will be at around the 10 o'clock position. I use a 1 1/2 thou feeler gauge but traditionally it's a fag paper. Turn the points gently until the paper is just released and that is where you gently nip up the pinion. Now turn the engine over 2 revolutions and double check it. If you get it spot on first time, you are a better man than me Gunga Pooch! I've taken 6-12 times to get it spot on on various bikes. Finely nip the pinion nut tight. With modern petrol and the ability to retard it at the handlebar if necessary, I think it's acceptable to be a bit advanced, so if the piston arrived at 9mm BTDC when the points break, I'd be happy. Good luck. Ron
  3. Steve if your ignition is happening on the down stroke ATDC then your timing is seriously retarded and no wonder it's running hot. DO NOT run it like that again. I can easily talk you through it, but can you first post a picture of the points side of your mag. Ron
  4. Yes Graham. Both mine have 9 or 10 coils. But the saddles on mine have a bar under the saddle where the spring tops mount which is lower than Steve's mounting points, which effectively raises the height. Ron
  5. I just wipe a finger full of Holts Exhaust assembly paste around all joints. I've noticed that they use it in car exhaust fit centers. It's just like white toothpaste but sets hardish but always crumbles away on disassembly. Ron https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HOLTS-FIREGUM-EXHAUST-ASSEMBLY-PASTE-150g-SEALS-JOINTS-/130558032711
  6. Double check the ignition timing! If it's getting that hot, it might be too retarded. Here is my (SV) painted exhaust after 400 miles. I'm using this spray paint which I'm sure I recommended before. https://www.firwood.co.uk/categories/heat-resistant-paints/product/firwood-75-high-temperature-resisting-paint/75 Unfortunately you can only buy it in '6 packs' which I've shared with a mate. Ron
  7. HARLEY!!??? What are you like? The cam gear on my 5SW is a bit rattly. But since the cams are good and the worn bushes have been replaced, I've put it down as quite normal. There will always be a clack from the gear teeth as the backlash in changed at the point where the cam is pushing open the valve to where it is then being pushed by the closing valve......If that description makes sense? The main rattle from mine when I acquired the bike and after further investigation, was that the small end bush was loose (wobbling) in the con-rod, which in turn had scuffed the piston.............New bush - file scuffs from piston - new rings - and light hone has done the trick. Ron
  8. Steve one thing I've noticed before you ride it. Your saddle looks awfully close to the mudguard?? It could be just camera angle?Any bump in the road could mean a coming together otherwise. Ron
  9. Looking purdy Steve. Is it running yet? I've clocked 400 miles on my 5SW and got used to the upside down gear shift, so I'm calling that "fit for duty" and Normandy after a pre departure check/adjust/grease up. As it happens we're hosting an "Indian Riders" rally over Easter and I'm leading two runs on a bike with standard box, so will be constantly thinking about gear shifts again.🤔 Ron
  10. I doubt that Jan can do anything with that Lex. Drop it at my place on your next visit and I'll use it as a step up. 😏 Ron
  11. Dave Tann makes perfect replica WD headlamp glasses complete with 'DEFUSA' logo 6" or 8" alliedglass123@gmail.com For stencils I use Platicote matt white rattle cans which come in handy small cans off ebay. I also have a selection of gloss colours for unit markings. (All stencils from Axholme signs) Ron https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PLASTI-KOTE-FAST-DRY-ENAMEL-SPRAY-PAINT-100ML-27-COLORS-NEW-ROSE-GOLD-AEROSOL/182598198699?epid=907194563&hash=item2a83b365ab:m:mYbKU1Mzb87h9yMnAvVWgAw
  12. I think they're called 'tail enders' and should be available from any of the Jeep dealers. Try http://www.jeeparts.co.uk/Jeeparts/home.php?xid=eed52dccdc8c9c556bf4c82ec16de2c7 Ron
  13. PS you just need one of Jan's 'Baguette Carriers' now. 😊 Ron
  14. No shell bearings on these! Roller bearings are very forgiving and don't really need much running in. But the bore and piston rings if new, need to be run in. 400-500 miles of careful riding should bed the rings in ok, and I change the oil after the first 100-200 miles. These Triumph SV's have a very large 8 thou piston skirt to bore clearance for some reason. I use Morris Golden film classis 40 in all my bikes engines, all year round as a compromise between 50 in summer and 30 in winter. To keep things simple....It works for me, but oil debates can be long and tedious!! I buy it at jumbles for £16-17 (5 liters). Ron
  15. Well done Steve. Good luck with the test run. Ron
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