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Ron last won the day on February 3

Ron had the most liked content!

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About Ron

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  • Birthday December 15

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  • Location
    Poole UK
  • Interests
    Collecting WW2 British vehicles for over 30 years and especially passionate about motorcycles.
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  1. I don't know anything about 6th Airborne. I can quote you the colour and number from 50 different units of 1st Airborne for Autumn 1944. No 6 on red in that lot. Ron
  2. The AoS (Arm of Service) 110 was used I think by "South Staffs" or something and seen in a series of pictures during part of "Operation Smash" in Aldershot, which was a training operation just prior to D Day. I'm not that well versed on WW2 vehicle unit markings, mainly doing the research as each occasion arises. During a fit of enthusiasm, I did put the Pegasus and 110 on my Flea, but subsequently resprayed the tank without them.......As sometimes I think.... "Less is more" Ron
  3. It's been determined that Royal Enfield used transfers and not paint for the census numbers. Same size and font on other models. The correct transfers are not available as we couldn't get them at the right price, but "Axholme Signs" make a right style stencil. I don't think I've ever seen original photographic evidence for Pegasus on a Flea tank. Just the AoS marking. Ron
  4. The general consensus lately seems to be these. https://www.vintagetyres.com/shop/tyres/ensign-universal-325-19 also available in 350 x19 for a slightly wider tyre. Ron
  5. If it helps you make a decision. The frame or chassis of a vehicle and it's number are the important part of a vehicle. You can change just about any component and DVLA will still recognize it's registration.........Change the frame and it's a whole new ball game. To my mind, your bike is ex RAF but has been fitted with a different engine. My RAF Royal Enfield was like that, but a very nice Dutchman gave me the correct crankcases for my contract, so even though there was nothing really wrong with my engine, I rebuilt it to make it all RAF. I'll get round to telling DVLA about a change of engine number but it's not critical. Ron
  6. Paul no electrical shut down on these. You just operate the valve lifter which lifts the exhaust valve off it's seat (2 strokes have a decompressor which just opens the cylinder to atmosphere) The valve lifter is also used for easier starting by allowing you to get the engine past the compression stroke, for a good easy swing on the kickstarter. Ron
  7. Ashton is the builder. Ron 1) https://youtu.be/dojkhIGUP1k 2) https://youtu.be/_3hTYFGs5zA 3) https://youtu.be/brYev1aC_zc
  8. Ah yes the brackets are different. Chris can you remind me about the regulator? Do you think it was relocated at some point? It looks completely safe and shielded, tucked away here. ultimately completely hidden by the battery. The points cap was another issue that I never resolved "officially" . My version is based on an old RE guy (model D owner) telling me how it was done. Ron
  9. Only the first type on a WD/D as far as I know Steve. Ron
  10. Later contracts were still using the lock box and then went to the knob type. I expect Jan will know roughly when? They used an even different style on the first contract WD/CO before deleting it altogether Ron
  11. Paul only the coil ignition bikes require a key for starting, and like any vehicle with a key, it's the responsibility of the driver to look after it. On that note however, most WW2 military vehicles that I can think of didn't have a key ignition, for probably the reason that different drivers would use them. Jeeps and Indian motorcycles are two that I can think of that started out with key ignitions, but were soon converted without keys. As far as the tool box is concerned, I've seen lots of these boxes with the suitcase locks but never seen one with a key. I guess they were soon lost or forgotten about. Ron
  12. Me too! Currently restoring a Lucas PLC5 switch for my 39 C10. Ron
  13. Well done Lex. It's very satisfying when you achieve such a repair.......And what can you do with your afternoons at the moment anyway? Ron
  14. Lex there's just a simple wire pivot on the toolbox lid as you can see. You will need to 'unwind' the 'hasps' on both ends of the wire to remove it. Or maybe the one in the middle? I've never tried (never really needed to) it could end in tears. Having said that, it's probably dead easy? Ron
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