mike30841

Hi Mark, If you need any work done on the head, I can thoroughly recommend Chris Watson who is fairly local to you (Just off Gaisby Lane). He is vastly experienced with everything from veterans to moderns. He has done a couple of engines for me, and his prices are reasonable too. Let me know if you want his contact details. Hope you don't find any nasty surprises once you get the head off. Kind regards, Mike

Lighter fluid is great for jobs like this.

Still no further forward with this, mainly due to lousy weather. Have polarised dynamo as per instructions, but still only getting around 0.5 volts output at dynamo terminals, with or without dynamo fuse in place. I am beginning to suspect that the dynamo still isn't correctly polarised. I note that the instructions in the link are for a Lucas dynamo, and I wonder if the CAV unit fitted to the OX is wired differently? I cannot find instructions for polarising a CAV dynamo on the internet, and all three Bedford manuals I possess omit this procedure. Does anyone know the correct procedure? Do I simply try reversing the polarity to the earth and F terminals or is this likely to damage the dynamo? Any help would be appreciated. Mike.

Thanks for your input, guys. To update - oops, had forgotten to polarise the dynamo (in my defence, I have only ever changed one dynamo, and that was around 30 years ago!). I have now done this, but it has not made a difference. Ignition light stays on with engine running at around 1000 - 1200 revs, ammeter sits on zero (it does show a discharge if I put the headlights on), and testing the dynamo output as per the manual, it still shows an output of around 0.5 - 0.6 volts. Strangely, so far the battery does not seem to be going flat. I have checked the dynamo earth with a continuity tester, and this seems ok. I am still tempted to think that the replacement dynamo is faulty, but obviously there are other possibilities. I can't get in to the regulator to inspect visually, as the vacuum tank for the wipers is in the way and it's now raining, so I have given up for now. Does anyone know how to test the regulator, by the way, as the manual seems rather reticent on this point? As far as I know, however, it I extremely unusual for a regulator to develop a fault. I would welcome your thoughts. Mike

May I pick your collective brains re my Bedford OX? Whilst my son was driving last weekend, the ignition light came on and stayed on, and the ammeter sits steadfastly at zero. I tested the dynamo as per the manual, and got a reading fluctuating between 0-4 volts, manual says 15 point something. I therefore concluded that the dynamo was at fault, and ordered a reconditioned one from Chris Morter. Having fitted the new one today, the problem remains, except from the new dynamo I get a steady reading of 0.5 volts. The ignition light still stays on and the ammeter is rock-solid at zero. With auto-electrics not being my strong point, I am now baffled - it is distinctly possible that the replacement dynamo is faulty, but before I send it back, am I missing something? Could a different fault give the symptoms of a non-charging dynamo? Any ideas gratefully received. Mike

Just spotted Mike H. has the springs on Ebay - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BEDFORD-MW-OX-OY-Military-Radiator-Neck-Spring-/381369666340?hash=item58cb674b24.

There was a thread on this a couple of years ago. I had the same problem with my OXD. I believe the frothing is down to localised boiling - the engine waterways on mine were clogged with crap and scale, I eventually removed about 1/2kg!! With that done and the radiator re-cored and the cracks in the neck repaired, the frothing was resolved, but it still squirts water out of the cap on a fairly regular basis, sometimes even before the engine has warmed up properly. The fittings in the neck were missing, so I have replaced them, with a new spring (these were available from Mike Humphreys of Yorks MVT, not sure if he has any left), but it has still not cured the problem. I have never experienced this problem with my QL. I am not entirely clear how the thing works, but I believe as pressure builds up, the central tube is pressed downwards against the spring and away from the seal, allowing excess pressure to escape through the vent holes in the cap. The manuals do not show any form of seal in the cap itself. As I said, I am pretty sure that the foaming results from problems with scale, rather than being related to the cap, but from previous threads, I am not sure anyone has ever really got to the bottom of this one. Mike.

Thanks Nicky, that would make sense as it was amongst other MW parts. Mike.

These came with some other parts I bought, mainly Bedford. Anybody know what they are? Are they any use to anyone? If so, make me an offer by pm. Collection only from Bingley, West Yorks. Mike.

I have for sale a selection of Bedford MW cab parts, mainly woodwork, most in decent condition. One of the parts is marked as being a cab sidewall pillar. The bottom part in the second picture appears to be part of a windscreen frame. I also have the following MW parts, all used:- Brake master cylinder complete, condition unknown Brake master cylinder body only Pair front wheel cylinders for reconditioning 1 x NOS wheel cylinder needs new seals Set front brake shoes good linings Dash panel very rough 1 x rear mudguard, rough, but the y shaped bracket is there Brake and clutch pedals NOS (I think these will also fit OY/OX) 1 x NOS stub axle/steering knuckle Would prefer to sell as one lot, collection only from Bingley, West Yorks. Make me an offer, pm me if interested. Mike.

I have for sale a cylinder head and a pair of manifolds for an Austin K5. I believe they will also fit the Austin K6 and possibly other models. The manifolds are in good condition, and the head appears to be as well, but has not been tested. Price for head is £125 and the same for the manifolds. Head is located in Bingley, West Yorks, manifolds are in Wiltshire at the moment (don't ask!). Collection only - pm me if interested. Mike.

I have acquired 3 of these - they measure approx. 20" square. I think they may be QLB crew compartment. Can anybody identify them for definite? Are they any use to anyone? If they are, make me an offer, they other two are in worse condition than this one, but the frames are sound, so they could be recovered. Located in Bingley, West Yorks.

YWE just got bigger and better. A big thank you to Stuart and all his team for a great weekend - just a shame the weather brought things to such an abrupt end on Sunday. Great to see so many British wartime vehicles together, particularly the parade round the arena. Mike S.

Personally, if there is any doubt as to the condition of the brakes I would play safe and go over the whole system. Visually inspect the whole system for leaks, corroded pipes and perished/split flexible pipes, and replace as necessary. Jack up each wheel in turn and check the brakes are free. Remove each wheel and drum to check condition of linings. Peel back the seals on the wheel cylinders and master cylinder to ensure no leaks - replace/repair as necessary. Finally adjust each drum and check/lubricate the handbrake cable and linkages. That way, you are not going to find out the hard way that you have a brake problem! A couple of tons of lorry can do an awful lot of damage if you suffer a brake failure. Mike.

Am good thanks Mark, I seem to remember the QL timing being a sod to do - with the timing light I was sat underneath with the engine running, as this was the only way to see the timing mark. This is not much help if you can't get it running. All I can suggest is have another go at the static timing making sure you have the engine on no1 tdc. Incidentally, is it trying to fire at all when you try to start it? Does it pop through the carb or exhaust? If it does, then the timing is almost certainly 180 degrees out. The thumb wheel you refer to is the micrometer adjuster, I believe one full turn equates to 1 degree of adjustment, so even if you turn it all the way, it is not enough to stop the engine running. This adjuster is for fine tuning only, the main setting is done by slackening the clamp bolt and turning the distributor body - it is surprising how far it can be turned with the engine running! Keep us posted on how you get on, and best of luck!! Regards, Mike.

Hi Mark, I think you have two possibilities here: 1) Are you certain the engine was on no1 top dead centre when you set the ignition timing? If it wasn't, it will be trying to fire at the top of the exhaust stroke. 2) Assuming that the timing is correct, you have almost certainly got the HT leads in the wrong order - set the engine back to no1 tdc and note where the rotor arm is pointing - that is where no1 lead goes. The rest follow anti-clockwise as per the firing order shown in the book. If this doesn't help, check for a spark at the plugs, and that fuel is getting through to the carb.# Hope this helps, and give me a call if you need to borrow my compression tester Mike.

Hi Henry, It looks like the drab version of the windproof smock - could be wartime or post-war - pretty much impossible to tell if the date is no longer legible. As far as I know, they normally sell for around £80 to £100, although there is one on Ebay at the moment for an extremely optimistic £750!! Hope this helps, Mike

Evening Ian, There is an RL troop carrier body on Ebay, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301530912175?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT. Might be worth a look, but a shame it isn't local. Mike.

Never mind - thanks for trying anyway, really appreciate it. Kind regards, Mike.

Pete, Many thanks for your reply and PM - I will give you a ring in the next day or two. Kind regards, Mike.

That is great - I would be interested to know if anything turns out to be salvageable ( although I wouldn't want to take a body from a restorable QL if anyone wanted to save the whole thing). I look forward to hearing from you. Kind regards, Mike

Hi Craig, PM sent. Mike S.

Does anybody have or know of any QL bodies for sale? Particularly looking for QLR and/or QLT body in restorable condition, or would consider QLD. Also looking for a QLT spare wheel carrier. Alternatively, does anyone have a set of drawings for either the QLT or QLR body? Bit of a long shot, I know, but most things seem to be out there if you can only find them! Thanks in anticipation, Mike.

Stu, Many thanks for the pics - I think I have identified one or two of the parts (mainly as not being QL, OX etc!), will have a better idea when I can get a proper look. Definitely interested in the radio bodied QL and many of the spares. Now that I have seen pictures of the tipper, I am not convinced that it is an original, but rather a civilian conversion - the only pictures I can find in any of my books show a shorter, steel tipper body, with the fuel tank and spare wheel carrier mounted behind the cab as on the QLD. I am sure someone with greater knowledge than me will be able to give us a definitive answer, though. Mike

Found this ad whilst browsing last night - might be of interest to somebody as it looks salvageable....... http://www.jge.co/used-trucks/bedford-qlw-4x4.html Mike.