mike30841

Have managed to find a rather poor picture, which shows that the covering is very dark, either black or a very dark green. Certainly, in your picture the covering looks very dark and has a fair sheen, so it doesn't look like canvas. Possibly the ones with canvas seats have had them re-covered at some point, either in service or subsequent civilian ownership, or maybe when they were built the factory used whatever they could get hold of. It does seem odd that they may not have been canvas when every other contemporary vehicle I can think of had canvas seat covers - I doubt if anybody knows the reason after all these years. Personally I would probably go with black vinyl or similar, but I am no expert, and have only had the chance to inspect the one example.

I looked over the remains of a QLT body a couple of years ago. As far as I could see the seats appeared to have the remains of a black leathercloth type of covering, which would tie in with your picture. Mike.

It is clearly nonsense to state that these are private events. The organisers are inviting the public, for a fee, to attend their show. Are you suggesting that the public should be excluded from such events? Even at a strictly private event, it would be extremely foolhardy, and of doubtful legality, to drive a vehicle anywhere where other people are present, whilst uninsured. If I were to do so and knock you down, causing injury, I am sure you would be screaming for compensation before you hit the ground. Where would that leave you if you were unable to walk or work again, and I had no insurance? It is surely a matter of common sense to have the appropriate insurance before you drive a vehicle anywhere. Thankfully, accidents at shows are extremely rare, but I am aware of an incident at a Landrover show a few years ago when an exhibitor reversed over, and killed, a young child.

35 years in the insurance industry. As an aside, don't all responsible show organisers insist that show entrants must have suitable third party insurance, and hold appropriate licence to drive the vehicle entered in the show? Certainly, all the entry forms I have ever filled in require this. In any case, just suppose you did drive an uninsured vehicle around a showground, and you injured or killed someone with it - how would you feel? More to the point, how would you pay any legitimate claim against you? Claims for serious injury or death can run to many hundreds of thousands, in rare cases even millions, of pounds. Very few, if any, of us, have pockets that deep.

For the purposes of the road traffic act, a road is defined as any place to which the public have access. This would include private car parks, showgrounds - even a private field if, for example, there is a footpath running through it.

Try putting your old plugs back in and see if that cures it. Mike.

That is interesting, because the one thing I haven't tried is taking the thermostat out and running without. Might give it a go and see what difference it makes - incidentally, I did fit a new thermostat when the engine was rebuilt. Mike.

Hi Dave, I have had this problem with my OX as long as I have owned it. Before I had the engine rebuilt, foam came out of the radiator cap. Since the rebuild coolant comes out. I have never managed to find the cause, despite an engine rebuild, replacement (pressure tested) head, radiator re-cored, filler neck spring reinstated and neck set up as per manual. I try to keep the coolant level just above the tubes and try to put up with it, but you can guarantee when coolant does spray out, it goes all over the windscreen! With vacuum wipers, this is more than a minor inconvenience. Regards, Mike.

Hi Mark, The carb on the QL has fixed jets, so the only setting up you need to do is the idle mixture and tickover speed - even the governor is pre-set. If the engine ran ok on your old carb it should run fine if you re-fit it. If you fit the new one, just set the idle mixture by trial and error then adjust the tickover and away you go. Regards, Mike.

If the noise isn't present under load, it doesn't sound like a problem with the engine or gearbox - you can verify this by going through the gears with the transfer box in neutral. If the noise isn't present, it suggests that the problem is in the drive train. There are so many joints in the drive train that it could simply be wear in some or all of them having a cumulative effect. Whilst you have power on, any slack is taken up, but as soon as you press the clutch, the wheels are driving the prop shafts and gears etc, and the clunk you describe is the backlash being taken up. As FV102 suggested, go through the drive train methodically, checking for wear in splines, ujs, drive flanges etc, you problem is likely to be in one or more of these. Best of luck locating the problem. Mike.

Hi Mark, Have you tried Pete Gaine - he might have some. Failing that, you could try Gosnays Engineering or F W Thornton, they both have large stocks of old engine parts, but they tend to be very pricey! Regards, Mike.

There is one for sale on Ebay at the moment http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WW2-MILITARY-AXE-DATED-1942-/222404412022?hash=item33c8560276:g:RJAAAOSwtfhYnLz2 Mike

Hi Ian, PM sent. Mike.

This is the earth (ground) lead for the engine, it attaches to one of the bellhousing bolts. Without it, neither the starter motor or ignition system will work. Regards, Mike

On the assumption that you are referring to the auxiliary generator and control box, I don't know about the MWR but the one on the QLR is shaft driven from the PTO on the transfer box. Regards, Mike

Hi Ian, This is the same one as used on most Bedfords. Chris Morter does a reconditioned unit which looks original on the outside but has modern internals. Price is around £100 on an exchange basis. I would avoid N.O.S. items as I understand they can deteriorate in storage - at least with a recon unit you get a guarantee. Kind regards, Mike S.

My son and I have also signed.

Are you absolutely certain you have timed the ignition to No1 TDC, and not No6 TDC? Both pistons are in same position, so you can't just go by the timing mark on the flywheel, you need to check that both valves on No1 are closed, indicating the top of the compression stroke. As Richard says, getting the plug leads 180 degrees out in the distributor cap would have the same effect. Mike

It is, of course, possible that the photographer had permission to take the pictures - it seems highly unlikely that the owner of a collection like that wouldn't keep it very secure!

Hi Russ - PM sent. As far as I can recall, the chap said the original engine was still fitted, and that it was a runner. Regards, Mike.

Hi all, sorry for the delay, but pictures now attached - sorry for the poor quality, but the light in the shed was very poor. Mike

Hi Colin, Pretty bad - it has been sat on the ground since at least the mid fifties, and in my opinion it isn't restorable - if I thought it was, I would have bought it. All the panels are shot, and several of the uprights have rotted away from the crossmembers. I am not sure it retains enough structural integrity to be lifted out in one piece. Unfortunately, it has become hemmed in by many years of scrap machinery, so it would have to be craned out over a chain link fence, so not likely to be cost effective anyway once you add in transport costs. Regards, Mike.

Went to look at a QLT body over the Easter break. This proved to be beyond salvaging, unfortunately, but as we were about to leave, we spotted some Matador bits - an engine, axles, and I think there was a gearbox/transfer box. The owner indicated that he would be prepared to sell. After a bit more probing, it transpired that there was also a Matador in the barn, also for sale if he gets the right offer. There is no body, it having been removed to fit a fifth wheel. It appears complete apart from that, including the winch, and all straight. The cab appeared fairly sound - there is a bit of corrosion here and there, but basically sound. I got the impression that the wooden frame was fairly sound, there was no sign of give when I climbed up. I couldn't give it a really good inspection, due to poor light and lack of time. I will try and post a couple of pics in the next couple of days. I was assured that it was last running around two years ago, and that it had only done around 12-14k miles since rebuild by REME in the early fifties. If anyone is interested, please pm me for contact details - the vehicle is in the Peterborough area. Mike

Hi Mark, PM sent with Chris Watson's details. Only way you will get all the crud out of the waterways in the block is to remove all the core plugs (including the one behind the flywheel, unfortunately) and flush repeatedly, alternating with fishing around inside with a small magnet. It is extremely awkward and tedious - I took about 3/4 of a kilo of scale from the engine on my OX, and that doesn't include what Chris got out of the head. Chances are the radiator will be full of crud as well. No easy way, I'm afraid. Kind regards, Mike.

Hi, Chris Morter has reconditioned control boxes fitted with modern internals available off the shelf for around £100 exchange. If the dynamo is the same as on the OX it is a CAV one, but not sure of the exact model. Regards, Mike