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About mike30841

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  • Birthday 01/08/1959

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  • Location
    Bingley, West Yorkshire
  • Interests
    Classic vehicles, model railways
  • Occupation
    Work in the insurance industry

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  1. John, Had a root around in my garage, I have found two sets of internals for the transfer box - if you pm me your mobile number I can send you a couple of pictures. They are not perfect, but are better than the ones from your box. If you can make use of a set, you can have them as long as you come and collect them. Regards, Mike
  2. I also have some spare innards which may well be in better condition than yours - will dig them out and have a look tomorrow.
  3. I have a spare transfer box if that is any help?
  4. I have for sale a set of good manifolds (one bent stud) to fit the Austin K5, I believe they will also fit the K6. I acquired these in amongst a job lot of Bedford parts - I do also have a cylinder head for a K5, when I can get to it!! Need rid of them due to imminent house move. Make me a fair offer. Collect from Bingley West Yorkshire - Can take to YWE.
  5. As Andy says, the rubber hardens with age, but as well as reducing the flexibility of the tyre, it also substantially reduces grip, particularly in damp or wet conditions. When I acquired my QL it was wearing original 1950's rubber which showed very little cracking, but the brakes would lock or the lorry would slide at the drop of a hat. As soon as I replaced the tyres with new rubber, this problem completely disappeared. I am all for originality, but surely safety should always come first - bear in mind that some of our vehicles are big heavy beasts and will do a great deal of damage if they come unstuck!
  6. Mark, If you have a spark and fuel is getting through (plugs will be wet), then the likelihood is that the problem is the same as you had a while ago with your QL - the timing has probably been set 180 degrees out ie set to no4 top dead centre instead of no1 top dead centre. The result of this is that each cylinder has a valve open when the ignition tries to fire. To check that you have no1 tdc, remove the plugs and turn the engine on the starting handle with a finger over the hole for the spark plug and watch the timing marks. If you can feel pressure with your finger as the timing marks line up, then you have no1 tdc. The reason it's so easy to get wrong is that no1 and no4 cranks are in the same plane, as are no2 and no3, so you always have two pistons at the top of their stroke. the valve timing, at 1/2 crankshaft speed, is such that when no1 is on the compression stroke, no4 is on the exhaust stroke. If you are 180 degrees out, the ignition fires with a valve open and the fuel charge gone! Check the timing first, and that should sort it out. If the timing is correct, check the main earth from the engine to the chassis, a faultless connection is critical with a 6 volt system. If that doesn't solve the problem, then I would begin to suspect that the valve timing is amiss due to an error in reassembling the engine, although it would need to be pretty far out not to run at all. Hope this helps and that I haven't confused you too much! Mike
  7. Chris Morter does a replacement control regulator with modern innards.
  8. All WW2 ammo boots had the heel and toe irons. The boots without the hobnails are drivers boots. For an infantry display, the ones with the studs, or hobnails are correct. There were other variations, Indian, Canadian and Australian issued boots were all different in some way (I don't know about New Zealand boots), and then there are the various types of jungle boot............... You can go on forever! Incidentally, my son regularly drives in the standard hobnailed variety and never has a problem - I certainly wouldn't risk it, walking in them is bad enough!
  9. I have a side cover for a QLR with the recess for the shielded distributor - I would be happy to do a swap if you are prepared to meet postage costs. The stay rod for the dynamo (generator) doesn't look right in the last photo, I think it should go on the next bolt up on the timing chain cover so that it is nearer to the horizontal. PM me with your address if you want the side cover. Regards, Mike
  10. Unfortunately the rest of us had to suffer the horrendous dust clouds they were raising all weekend! Grandson Peter (18 months old) was transfixed by them for hours - only took his eyes off them for his afternoon nap. Nevertheless, another excellent show from the YWE team, so a huge thank you to Stuart, Nelz and the team.
  11. Another superb restoration from Melvin Bean and Mike Humphreys.
  12. How did you extract the piston in the first place? I spent over an hour this afternoon trying to dismantle a spare - I cannot get the piston to move , and of course you can't get at the other end to tap it out with any sort of drift. Mike
  13. That is a fine collection, but please do be careful advertising de-acs for sale. In case you have missed all the changes in legislation over he last year or two, it is a criminal offence to transfer ownership (that would include gifting, or leaving in your will) of any de-ac which does not conform to current EU/UK legislation, introduced in April 2017, if my memory is correct. Any de-ac not conforming must be re de-activated to current spec before transfer. Basically, thanks to the t**ts at Brussels, any automatic or semi-automatic gun must be utterly destroyed by welding everything solid, whilst bolt action rifles must have the magazine modified, and the receiver pinned. I further understand that from the end of June this year, bolt action rifles will have to be pretty much welded solid so that they will no longer cock and dry fire. I stress that I am not trying to p*** anyone off - as a collector myself, I have no desire to see a fellow collector/enthusiast fall foul of the law. In this case, the law truly is an ass - the only effect these changes will have is to drive the market for old spec de-acts underground.
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