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mike30841

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About mike30841

  • Rank
    Sergeant
  • Birthday 01/08/1959

Personal Information

  • Location
    Keighley, West Yorkshire
  • Interests
    Classic vehicles, model railways
  • Occupation
    Retired

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  1. Chris Morter 07860 520542 or 01953 602581. If you are really stuck, it's possible to make a sort of V shaped crank by welding two steel strips together so that the point of the V pivots on the small shaft on the side of the carb, and use a universal throttle linkage (I got mine from ebay cheaply) to connect it to the rest of the linkage. Probably easier to do than to explain. If you need further explanation, let me know and I will try and get up to where I store my QL and take a picture or two of what I cobbled together - it works very well and doesn't look too out of place apart from my awful welding! Regards, Mike
  2. You could try Chris Morter, he does have spares from vehicles which he and dad John have broken. I couldn't get the linkage when I put the correct carb on my QL, had to make one. Bear in mind the QL is very, very slow on hills even with the correct set-up - doesn't seem to matter whether they're loaded or not! Mike.
  3. As far as I am aware all the wartime and subsequent Bedfords were built as negative earth. My OX is still running with a dynamo - given the minimal electrics on military vehicles, I can see no advantage whatsoever in fitting alternators. That said, my QL had one fitted when I bought it and I have never bothered to change it back.
  4. Hi Clive, Some interesting points you raise there. Unfortunately, I don't possess a dwell angle meter, and I'm pretty sure that the manuals don't give anything as exotic as the dwell angle - bear in mind these vehicles were designed to be maintained by squaddies with nothing more sophisticated than a hammer and a tyre lever. All the many different coils I have tried have been brand new from reputable suppliers. As they are all marked + & - I presume that they are for negative earth (if I understand you correctly, coils with the terminals marked SW & CB are positive earth?). None of the suppliers I have used specify coils as being for +ve or -ve earth vehicles. I did check the cold resistance of the primary windings on some of the coils before they were fitted, and they were around 3ohms, from memory, but I was only using a cheap multi-meter. As soon as I receive my newly-ordered tester, I will check the output from the battery, as well as checking the circuitry for voltage drop. It is very kind of you to offer to test a coil for me at GDSF, but as I'm in Yorkshire it's a but far to come at the moment (it is on my "bucket list, however). Hoping to have a good look at it this week, so will post any developments. Mike.
  5. Hi Richard & Michael, I can confirm that the various coils I have tried have all been connected correctly, with the negative terminal to the distributor ( vehicle is negative earth). The points are undamaged, which suggests that the condenser is functioning correctly, although it has been changed anyway, just in case! Ref Michael's point about heat transfer from the engine, Bedford originally mounted the coil on the side of the engine. I have run it with the coil in that position, although for some time I have had the coil mounted on the bulkhead in an attempt to keep it cooler. I suspect this problem was ongoing even before I purchased the vehicle, as when I bought it there was an illuminated switch wire across the + & - terminals on the coil, which I presume was to indicate whether or not there was a problem with it. I have just ordered myself a proper automotive tester, so next job is to work my way through the ignition circuit looking for any voltage drop or poor connections, and to take off and clean all the battery/engine earth points. Cheers, Mike.
  6. Hi Richard, Thanks for your input. I am aware that some coils are designed to be used with a ballast resistor, and have always been careful to buy only the correct type which are not made for use with a ballast resistor. I have tried coils from various sources, including one of the well known Bedford parts suppliers, and have had the same problem with all of them, although some have lasted longer than others. I am pretty sure the problem lies elsewhere, but precisely what it is baffles me. I had similar problems with my QL but having replaced all the earth leads and some of the ignition circuit wiring a couple of years ago, the problem has not recurred.
  7. I have had problems with my Bedford OX for several years - basically, the ignition coil overheats after a few miles and then dies so that it is impossible to restart the engine until things cool down. Does anyone know if an electronic ignition setup would cure this problem? Has anyone fitted electronic ignition and what are your experiences of it? Who supplies them? Any advice gratefully received.
  8. I got a set of the Titan ones from Gray Automotive a while ago. He may still have some - give John Gray a call on 07968 381304. Mike.
  9. John, Had a root around in my garage, I have found two sets of internals for the transfer box - if you pm me your mobile number I can send you a couple of pictures. They are not perfect, but are better than the ones from your box. If you can make use of a set, you can have them as long as you come and collect them. Regards, Mike
  10. I also have some spare innards which may well be in better condition than yours - will dig them out and have a look tomorrow.
  11. I have a spare transfer box if that is any help?
  12. I have for sale a set of good manifolds (one bent stud) to fit the Austin K5, I believe they will also fit the K6. I acquired these in amongst a job lot of Bedford parts - I do also have a cylinder head for a K5, when I can get to it!! Need rid of them due to imminent house move. Make me a fair offer. Collect from Bingley West Yorkshire - Can take to YWE.
  13. As Andy says, the rubber hardens with age, but as well as reducing the flexibility of the tyre, it also substantially reduces grip, particularly in damp or wet conditions. When I acquired my QL it was wearing original 1950's rubber which showed very little cracking, but the brakes would lock or the lorry would slide at the drop of a hat. As soon as I replaced the tyres with new rubber, this problem completely disappeared. I am all for originality, but surely safety should always come first - bear in mind that some of our vehicles are big heavy beasts and will do a great deal of damage if they come unstuck!
  14. Mark, If you have a spark and fuel is getting through (plugs will be wet), then the likelihood is that the problem is the same as you had a while ago with your QL - the timing has probably been set 180 degrees out ie set to no4 top dead centre instead of no1 top dead centre. The result of this is that each cylinder has a valve open when the ignition tries to fire. To check that you have no1 tdc, remove the plugs and turn the engine on the starting handle with a finger over the hole for the spark plug and watch the timing marks. If you can feel pressure with your finger as the timing marks line up, then you have no1 tdc. The reason it's so easy to get wrong is that no1 and no4 cranks are in the same plane, as are no2 and no3, so you always have two pistons at the top of their stroke. the valve timing, at 1/2 crankshaft speed, is such that when no1 is on the compression stroke, no4 is on the exhaust stroke. If you are 180 degrees out, the ignition fires with a valve open and the fuel charge gone! Check the timing first, and that should sort it out. If the timing is correct, check the main earth from the engine to the chassis, a faultless connection is critical with a 6 volt system. If that doesn't solve the problem, then I would begin to suspect that the valve timing is amiss due to an error in reassembling the engine, although it would need to be pretty far out not to run at all. Hope this helps and that I haven't confused you too much! Mike
  15. Chris Morter does a replacement control regulator with modern innards.
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