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DAN THE STEAM

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Posts posted by DAN THE STEAM

  1. Hi all, just an update iv just finished stripping the other block down, that the valve caps were so seized it was unbelievable.

     

    also i think i have a solution to the missing pistons, the bore of my engine is 4 1/8 ID a fordson standard is also 4 1/8 so that was a good match but even better than that, the chap who sold me the radiator tube's had a brand new set of Fordson pistons all complete plus 0.0040 over sized and cast iron.

     

    There still in there original box with GWR labels to Bristol Temple Meads Urgent! Well maybe not that urgent then.

     

    Dan

  2. Hi Ian, glad the repair held out and you got back safely thanks.

     

    Have just finished cleaning out all the treads of rusted or broken studs plus last night i cleaned up the outside of cylinder number two, and put some grey primer on her, just makes it nicer to handle and looks nice.

     

    Will post some pictures soon Dan.

  3. Hi all, have just finished removing the last valve cap, valve's and valve guides from cylinder number two , the last valve cap put a good fight but with heat and lots of oil and more heat then let it cool down then a big bar shifted it.:yay:

     

    Also have removed about a cup of limescale and rusty dirt from the water jacket, and there's more to remove:shocked:.

     

    Have also cleaned up the cam shaft ready to figure out what to do about the key way, there is a few options i,m thinking of, anyway here's some pictures of what it look's like so far * so tired now :yawn: but thought i'd sort out a post before i go home.DSCN0883.jpg 6 Cylinder number 1 awaiting the same treatment.

     

    Good night from a tired Dan.

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  4. Hi Dan.

     

    As Andy says, I would ignore it! Our FWD also has three cracks just like that. They don't leak when parked but are inclined to weep when the engine is running. They are an annoyance but don't stop us running and I think the risk of doing more damage trying to fix them is quite high. Leave it alone and see what happens!

     

    Steve

     

    Hi Steve, thanks for that i wasn't sure about fixing it as i know it is possible to do more damage than good some times, so i'll leave it well be then.

     

    Also thanks Andy, for your advise as well and thanks for the link.

  5. Hi all, i'm just working on removing the valve caps on number two cylinder and whilst wire brushing it i have found a crack on the side of the water jacket, going from the water inlet up to the top water jacket cover opening.

     

    Its only a hair line crack but im sure it will still leak when it warms up, so not quite sure how to sort this out without causing more cracks or damage.

     

     

    *need advise on this please*

  6. A little further research has revealed that Halley built their own engines from about 1911 and previously had used Crossley and Tylor products,

    Richard Peskett.

    Hi Richard, thats interesting, i didn't know Halley used Crossley engines as well, thanks.

  7. i`v found several pictures whilst pottering about on the net...i`m sure they are halley`s

     

    here:

     

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]87077[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]87078[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]87079[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]87080[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]87081[/ATTACH]

    Theres some nice clear pics there, the only one that im not sure about being a Halley is picture number two, but i could be wrong, thanks.

    Dan.

  8. I think you will find the engine is a c.1914 Continental as per attached and fitted into a Palladium chassis

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]87087[/ATTACH]

    Richard Peskett.

    Hi Richard, that looks extremely similar but there are still differences, like the water pump is inline with the mag, the oil filler is at the front of the engine.

     

    but apart from that is very similar, thanks.

    Dan

  9. Hi all again, thought id update you on the project, when i removed the cam shaft i found the timing gear nut had been striped of its thread and the end of the cam had been riveted over to stop it falling off :nono:, so i decided today to try and machine the riveted head off and remove the timing gear to see if i can screw cut a new thread, the answer is YES

    *as normal* Here's some pics to show you what i found.

    DSCN0861.jpgNote. the chalk mark on the timing gear then how much play there is in the key and key way, i think this may have been a pig for running in its day.

    Dan.

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  10. Hi Dan, that crank looks brilliant, I bet you were pleased when you pick it up. Hope to be over to see you in the next week or so to pick up that gear box.

     

    Ian

    Hi Ian, thanks and yes i realy was pleased with the end result.

     

    Look forward to seeing you.

     

    I think the engine may be American ? , a couple of points - the priming tap shown is identical to those of the set of originals that were in my Jeffery-Quad. Park Drop Forgings , incorporated May 1907, were crankshaft manufacturers in Ohio, merging with Ohio Gears in 1967.

    Richard Peskett.

    Hi Richard, thank you for the info, i am searching ever part for something to help all figure out what it is.

     

    I would agree with Richards postulation that it is American. That primer is identical to those in our American built Autocars.

     

    I am pleased to learn of 'Park Drop Forgings' though. Something else to look out for!

     

    Steve :-D

    Hi Steve, thank you for the email it's a nice picture.

     

    so....

     

    Did Halley manufacture their own engines then?....or was it a case of grab a proven design from a reputable manufacturer?

     

    just wondering if this would be the same for the gearbox?

     

    I have been looking at this thread for a while and it just goes to show that with dedication anything can be brought back....

    i think those in here that involve themselves with this depth of restoration are a credit to us all.

     

    Well done.

    Hi, yes Halley did build there own engines and gearboxes but at first fitted Tylor engines, as far as i know they have always built there own gearboxes.

     

    Also thankyou for the kind comments, it helps to drive you to get on with it.

     

    To say I am in awe, is an understatement!! Excellent thread, your work is truely inspiring!
    Thanks, i am the some with when i saw the Goslings Dennis and saw that it was possible to do it.

    Progress has been a bit slow but hoping to get going on the Halley to full speed again.

     

    Dan,

    Did you work out which model this chassis is? As a point of interest what is the wheel base, for it seems to be be about a 2 1/2 tonner.

    Interested to read of the crankshaft marking indicating an American engine. That design of front engine mount and oil filler matches nothing I have here. The cast block and steel sump makes the engine dating to me in the period around 1920. Prior dates tend to be alloy crankcase as with Lycoming engines.

    If we could find a link showing which motor manufacturers the foundry supplied crank shafts to, that would help.My searching through the internet has brought up nothing.

    Your rebuilding is a magnificent undertaking.

    Doug

    Hi Doug, i have identified my Halley as a B35, off the top of my head i cant remember the length of my wheel base but will measure it for you.

     

    The sump on the engine is cast iron as it has a massive crack down one side at the front, and thank you for the kind words.

     

    Dan.

  11. Hi all, just an update the crank has been removed shoot blasted, crack tested *which it passed* then it has been reground, the crank has cleaned up like new. Thank you to Price Brothers of Avonmouth for managing to give the old crank a new lease of life, a job well done.

     

    DSCN0799.jpg Dan.

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  12. Hi all, just a small update, i have removed the crank from the engine had it shot blasted then dropped it of at engine re conditioners to be crack tested and then re ground as the rust and heavy wear on the bearing suffices means the crank does not look to good, but is salvageable will post pics when i get it back.

     

    Dan.

  13. I have only just fitted the engine in today,after getting it out the back of the Land Rover this morning, then lowered it into the chassis to measure up for some temporary brackets and found the engines support legs fit with an 1" 1/4 from the inside of my chassis rails and between centers from front to back the engines brackets are only 2" 1/2 difference from my original engine bracket bolt holes, also the top of the engine sits about the right height from the top of the header tank with the crankshaft sat at the right height for the starting handle. A massive thank you to the previous owner as now the Halley has a heart, this is a great start for 2014 and a step in the right direction. Here's some more pictures for you all to enjoy.DSCN0789.jpg Dan.

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  14. Hi all, and happy new year, Santa visited the Halley with a late present, :shake:the weight probably slowed him down anyway i'll let the pictures tell you more??DSCN0774.jpg ITS THE BEST CHRISTMAS PRESENT EVER (just like all big kids shreds of rapping paper everywere:yay::yay::yay::yay::yay::yay::yay::clap::clap::banana::banana::banana:)

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  15. Hi mtskull, thankyou well the parts are only missing in a 3d matterial form but are there in my head so i just have to learn the skills required and take it from my head and make it reality, and thats the fun part. here are some pics of the box fitted to the chassis.DSCN0730.jpgWell its not the dogs ******** athough the cat likes it:rotfl: beware tiger security on patrol:shake:

    DAN oh and CHEEZY WOTSIT (the cat)?

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  16. Here is all the castings assembled together after machining and painting in primer, next job is to machine all the bronze bushes and then to start planing the internals worm and pinion (thats going to be fun i think).DSCN0725.jpgDAN

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