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About PB1954RNS

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  1. Albion BY5 F.B.E

    Hi Pete. Many thanks for your help and advice about the wiring, to be honest I want to sort out both issues,. to get the engine running and to sort out the electrical problems at the same time. I'm away for a few days but when back I want to go over and check all the connections as the first stage and then move on to the next one. I do need to get a replacement switch box as this will put my mind at rest, at the moment it's like a itch you cannot scratch and will feel better about it with a replacement. Thanks for the info on post war switch box and will keep a check on ebay and will put a wanted ad on this site. Cheers. Paul Burns.
  2. Albion BY5 F.B.E

    Hi. Just a catch up on the wiring situation on the lorry. After doing some domestic jobs around the house I did manage to get out and start to check the wiring with the multimeter. I did find two circuits that were dead - A) Wire from the Ignition Coil back to the Switch Box. B) From the Fuse Box up to the Switch Box which controls the lights. So its going to be the case of checking the wiring that I removed when I took the Switch Box out and check to see that it has been wired up correctly., or to what I think could be the real cause of the problem is the water damage that I found when taking it apart. I shall have another go and try to clean it up again. I don't know if there are any companies who can service the Switch Box out there, if any one knows of a company then please let me know . The other alternative is to try and find another one in a better condition, but so far have not seen one for 12 volt system. The Fuse Box is the original one and has the wire fuse on a type of card that fits into spring clamps and I want to get some spare fuses, any help welcome - I'm away for a couple of days and will post a photo of the type needed. Cheers. Paul Burns.
  3. Albion BY5 F.B.E

    Hi Andy. No worries about the book many thanks for letting know about it and it is sat in my collection of books about Albion BY lorries. I'm hoping to get it moving around again in the summer subject to fixing some large and extra large problems!. The main problem is the weather as I have to work outside on it. The equipment is slowly being replaced as I find it and I still have to call in to the R.E Museum to measure up the boat. Main spending is the last two new tyres as the costs for the tyres, flaps and inner tubes cost just under £600, so hitting EBay to sell off bits and bobs. I have managed to grease up the wire lifting cables as the cables are a bit dry, after a few windings up and down are well covered. Still trying to sort out the wiring problem and get the engine running again. Will update as I sort things out. Paul Burns.
  4. Albion BY5 F.B.E

    Hi. Not been able to do much due to weather - cold or wet. When it has been able to work on the lorry , I have been checking over wires that I did disconnect and cleaning up the faces of of the connectors. The one main problem and I have always had doubts over is the switch box on the instrument panel, this did have water in it during its time outside. I did strip it down and clean it up , replaced the ignition spindle in the ON/OFF switch, but feel that this might be a problem and need replacing subject to getting a replacement. Being mechanically minded and not being electrically up to scratch - I having a few trial runs with the meter before diving in to start and check the circuits . History Note. The half Albion at the start of this blog still in the scrap yard , I have the details of it. L5333019 , Chassis No 52521F, Reg No 18YX62 and sold from C.V.D Ashchurch on 09/09/59. Will keep you informed as I progress. Cheers. Paul Burns.
  5. A PHOTO COPY of the Maintenance Manual and Instruction Book for the following models - Tractor 4X4 F.A C/8 - Mark 2 and Mark 3, Chassis 30- cwt. 4x4 C9/B. Lorry 30, cwt. 4x4 A.T Portee C/8. Mark 2 and Mark 3. Tractor 4x4 A.T. C/8 Mark 2 and Mark 3. Tractor 4x4 A.T. C8/P.. This book was brought back in 1981 when I had a Quad Mark 2 and a Mark 3, but these were sold on but always thought I would find another one and restore it. But now having the Albion BY5 to restore - one is enough and so the book is being sold to raise funds for the Albion. I'm looking for £35 and £5 P+P and will be sent marked to be signed for . Paul Burns.
  6. Albion BY5 F.B.E

    Hi. Many thanks for your reply - on checking the wiring around the control board there is a combination of old and new wiring installed. Will check it all over again and have now ordered a multimeter to try and get this problem sorted. Many Thanks P.B
  7. Albion BY5 F.B.E

    Hi. As requested the wiring diagram for the Albion in two parts. The lorry has stood outside for many a good few years, so I don't know if the weather has corroded any of the wiring or terminals. Any thoughts or suggestions welcome. Cheers. P.B
  8. Albion BY5 F.B.E

    Hi. It's on my list to get a multimeter and will be checking out various web sites to get one. As for the problem well it's from the control board upwards, I have taken the cover off to check the wiring but all seems okay. Could something electrical in the control board be stuck, burnt out or just being very awkward.. I want to try and get this out before buying a new control board, it could something so simple......... PB.
  9. Albion BY5 F.B.E

    Hi. Time for a update on the old girl. Things have been a bit slow due to the weather as I keep the lorry outside under sheets and as the season has changed, I have set up a programme of mechanical jobs to pass the winter away. First of all I have now got the vehicle Army Reg from the R.L.C Archive and it's 18YX66 and was sold off on the 25/08/59 and is marked as C.V.D Ashchurch. Next tyres, These are the new tyres but only one fitted but you can see that they have a larger diameter but still the same size. The old tyre is going to be fitted on the spare tyre stand on the other side of the body work, still need two more tyres to finish. Also the brackets for the leather gaiters are now fitted and checking the others will need to make a full set for the remaining axles. And talking about axles still looking for the rear axle drain plug - 1-1/8" BSF thread, any one got a spare one doing nothing and want to find a good home - them please let me know. If I cannot get one then I shall have to have one made up. I brought some leather off Ebay and also the hole punch and eyelet punch as well. I wanted to touch up the paint work on the wheel - please don't try this at home - And 3/4's of a can of green paint is now sat on my garden. I was lying on my back to check and fit the original leather gaiter and I found some thing stuck in my back, quick push with the arm problem gone. Then came the smell of paint - another can on order. One of the winter jobs is to try and get the engine running, there is a new battery as the old one was passed it's working life date. When connected the stater motor will spin but from the fuse box/ control board to the instrument panel is dead. I have checked the fuses and cleaned them up but still the same . There isn't any of the lights working or any discharge on the ammeter - it's like a blockage on the cable that's stopping it from working. Well fellow restorers any ideas as to what the problem could be any views welcome. P.B
  10. Universal Carriers blueprints/ books etc

    Hi. Don't know if this is any good to you not being 100% on carriers, but the National Archives have a hull drawing of a Bren Carrier No2, MK 1/L and MK 2/L. Classed as a large drawing Record No WO 194/154 and dated Dec 1938. Any help. P.B
  11. Albion BY5 F.B.E

    Hi. Time for a quick up date on the Albion. I have been working my way around the oil points and cleaning out the grease used instead of oil on various parts and then marking them off on the chart to show that they have been done. The two half's of the brackets that hold the leather gaiters on to protect the spherical bushes on the rear axles. I did consider getting these made up by a fabrication company but decided to have a go my self This was the first one made up and on a trial fit before finishing off. This shows the rusted one on the left and a new one just needing another coat of paint. I did cut out of 20 gauge plate - cut the 4 backing plates and I made up a former to bend the edge over for the gaiter to sit on. When I did the bending, I did use some heat to make the forming easier. There should be 6 bolts to hold the brackets on but I only had 3 fitted, so sent off for 3/8" BMS bar and made up the missing bolts. As I have run out of gauge plate and will order some more when I get back from a holiday and carry on making up the two remaining brackets. So a job I have wanted to do for some time now is to change the engine oil, but every time I thought I would change it, went off and did some thing else. So the day came when I would change it, bolt fitted into the sump plug but the plug wouldn't move, Albion fitted the sump with two sump plugs, don't know if any other makers did the same. Second one was loose and a quick check around me to see if I could make a fast getaway to save me from getting covered in oil as I was lying on my back. Waste rags, large bucket to catch the oil and slowly turned the plug and getting closer to when the plug would come out, plug out and a Brown , Grey and Black Tar fell out of the sump. Left alone to drain out for a while, I put a finger in the sump to have a feel around and found a black sludge inside, this meant that the sump had to be dropped down and cleaned out. Glad to say filter and sump cleaned and with a new gasket fitted put back on the engine. Next job is to drain out the main gear box and hope I don;t find the same tar in there. P.B
  12. A Camouflage cover for a M1 helmet as used by U.S Army from WW2 - Korea - Vietnam. This cover was brought from a Army Surplus shop in Oxford in 1982. The cover is marked inside - Cover Helmet Camouflage, DLA100.78-FU048. 8415-00-105-0605. 05. MPLS. SOC . F/T BLIND INC. The cover where it has been fitted to the helmet, is a bit worn but not too major and also if part of any Vietnam re-enactment group will add to the details. Price looking for £10 Plus £5 P+P To be signed for.
  13. A ORIGINAL U.S ARMY first edition - AMS 6303 1 road map of France published by Army Map Service, Corps of Engineers, U.S Army. Army Map Service, U.S .Army, Washington. D.C 1944. The map is folded in half and each section is marked as a page 1 - 8. The cover and map is in a good condition but there is a slight crease mark on the bottom of the front cover. This was brought from a shop in Arromanches early 1995. Price £10 plus £5 P+P First Class to be signed for.
  14. 33mm Wheel Nuts

    These are spare wheel nuts from the Albion BY5 and are of 7/8th BSF, LH/RH threads. There are 19 of them and are 33mm across the flats. When I brought some correct replacement wheel nuts I paid a £1 each for them and these are being offered at the same price - plus P+P. Cheers. P.B
  15. Albion BY5 F.B.E

    Hi. When putting the hub back together the first parts to be fitted were the dust shields. out of 6 only 3 were okay. They had been stored in the old side locker and suffered badly from being in a small pond, but I had got 2 tops and 1 bottom piece. The bottom half had been repaired but was a bit of a rough job and needed a good clean up on the welds, plus a hole had to be drilled to get it to fit correctly. The holes in the stays were cleaned up with a 5/16th BSF taps and ordered some 5/16th BSF bolts and to give the old girl a treat, ordered some 3/8th BSF castle nuts in stainless steel for the pins. These pins fit into the spring anchorage spherical bush housing and have two plates either side, top and bottom this fixes the leather gaiters to the bush housing. There were only 3 left in the housing and they were just pushed into it, I have now got the BMS 3/8th rod and this has now been cut into 3 pieces and is the next job to be done. It is just a case of threading both ends and measuring for the holes for the split pins .The outer bearing that fits in the hub was sized but with some WD40 the bearing races were freed and cleaned up, plenty of grease worked into it and is free to move. The leather gaiter that was left on, I did manage to repair it, but sewing is not my best skill and having stuck the needle into my finger a few times, was beginning to think that this was a bad idea. But it has been repaired/ cleaned and I have worked leather restore paste back in to it and is now soft and supple, ready to be fitted. There is still another gaiter to be made that fits on the inside between the spring and the housing. The inside of the axle was cleaned out of rust but still looking for a drain plug for it, before I can fill it up with oil. P.B