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About PB1954RNS

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  1. UPDATE 2019/2020. Hi. Just a quick update on the Albion for 2019/2020. The work I had planned for Christmas period, had to be put on hold due to the fact I caught this winter bug. And if you have not got it yet, it is a little sod. Wheels. I reported that I had two flats - front and middle. The middle tyre was a easy one to strip, as the bead was already loose and was easy to take apart. A good clean up of the inside of the tyre and the inner tube had a split of 1 .5" in it. New tube and flap fitted and the wheel went back together, just as it is shown in the manual. The front was a real swine, the bead wouldn't break and so I had to come up with 'Plan B'. I tried with pry bars and crow bars and still it wouldn't give. So a ponder about how to remove the steel insert and then a light bulb moment. A had some off cuts of the wood used for the walk ways, this is a very hard wood and would do the job. The wheel was laid on the floor and I put a piece of wood in the inside of the insert and this had a hole drilled in the centre. A piece of threaded bar bolted on, then another two pieces with holes drilled in them, put on top with the bar sticking up. The top pieces had packing put underneath it but resting on the tyre. Then I started to wind the nut down to put pressure on the tyre and then went around the bead with the pry bar and crow bar to try and free it. As the packing went slack, the nut was wound down again to put more pressure on the bead and slowly the gap started to get wider. Then by putting wood on the tyre wall and pressing down on the wood with the crow bar, there was a slight pop and the middle insert was now free. On trying to remove the flap and inner tube, I found that the flap had not been fitted correctly and was bent over on top of the tube. I carn't say if this was the cause of the puncture but having struggled to remove the flap and tube, I found a 1.5" split in the tube. A good clean out of the tyre, new tube and flap fitted and the wheel put back together, it now stands in my garage ready to be refitted, but this winter bug has put a stop to it. Brake system. The next job I had worked out to do, was to strip and remove the Master Servo Cylinder. This was a job I could do just working under cover. I started to undo the pipe unions and when it came to the Section Union, which comes from the engine it was removed and I found it full of muck and now wonder what's inside the servo. Having a look at the manual there are two leather gaiters missing off the servo and will have to have new one's made. Also I removed a brake rod from the Hand brake and tried to move the hand brake rods but it is stuck solid. The reason I wanted to work on the hand brake was to get it working again as at the moment it has bricks under the wheels. Image of the master servo and the braking system. As soon as I can get out and about, will get stuck in to the hand brake and servo and will show you what I find. Cheers. Paul Burns.
  2. Hi. Many thanks for your reply, I also have found this manual and printed it off. I'm not sure what age it is. It might be more of a modern one but I don't know what sort of age they stopped using these servo's. But there are some pages missing but hopefully between the workshop manual and this manual, put the fear and dread aside and take it apart and service it. Now the major problem has been that the top cover has been replaced with a poor replacement and not fitted correctly with the chance that over the years it has been standing that water has got into the main body. So at present it is covered over to stop any further damage to it. There is a oil cup on the top of the main body but the lid is missing and there was a large split pin put in the oil way, dont know if this was a better way of allowing oil to drip feed in to the body but I will make up a worsted plug trimming. Also I will have to replace the oil cup as it's in a bit of a bad state of repair,but when it's in the shed , bottle of beer, get my thinking cap on to see if it can be saved. I have put the makers plate off the old cover aside in a safe place, so safe I cannot find it!!. When I can find it I will post the details and see if any one can give me more information about it. Cheers. PB
  3. Hi. It was about time for a Autumn update. Chassis. After I put a shelf between the chassis for holding down the oars, I did a quick check to see how the oars would fit. I found that they would hang in mid air and would have every chance to fall in between the chassis and the road, causing some damage to the lorry. So I have sheeted the chassis up to 11' as there should be 5 x 10' wooden oars and 1 x 10' barge pole, as these are part of the equipment carried in the middle. I have to make up a system of tie downs to hold these parts on the chassis to save them from wondering off. One of the not a major problem but a bit of a pain, is the fact new angle was fitted inside the chassis but the fixing holes don't line up. So I have had to remove the covers so that I can stand up without putting a crease in my head as I tend to headbutt the chassis with the covers down. Nature has been working against me with this consent rain and tends to hold up my plans. Brakes. I have gone back over some work I did on the rear most axle, the offside brake drum was fitted but not with the brake shoes inside, when they fitted the drum was solid. So it has been a case of fit, turn - no, remove the drum clean again and refit. I can say that these Albion brake drums get to be a bit heavy and after fitting it for the fourth time, my mind started to wonder about Air Brakes. But I did get it to turn smoothly after a full days work. The brake rigging on each axle has been taken down and a few oil nipples that I have missed, have had the grease cleaned out and pumped full of oil. I'm working one section at a time to save getting parts mixed up. Looking forwards towards the cab, the next big problem is the 'Clayton Dewandre' brake srevo. This is going to be bit of a heart ache, as I have never taken one of these apart. I have basic instructions in the workshop man and have found a part of a manual on the web but could be a later type. If any one has had any experience of taking one of these apart or can help with any contacts for parts please let me know. Torque Rods. These have been freed up and pumped full of oil, but I have to take them apart so that I can fit new leather seals . Wheels. During the last couple of weeks, the front nearside and middle tyres, the inner tubes have given up and now the proud owner of two flat tyres. To ease the weight on the tyre, there are axle stands supporting them until I can replace the inner tubes and flaps, these are in the stores ready for fitting. The last two wheels have now been cleaned up from the rust and bits of rubber. They now have been painted in red oxide and when I can get some green paint, be given a couple of coats. The wheels are the spare and offside middle wheel, they will need two new tyres, inner tubes and flaps. Wanted. 5 x 10' wooden oars, 1 x 10' barge pole and two 1940's life jackets as they were part of the kit. Right next update will have some photos. P.B
  4. Hi Simon. My last posting was only meant as a light hearted comment and having looked at the photos most of the details I want are below the piles of motor bikes. If you could get permission to remove a axle, then you would need burning gear to cut it out. Some thing that is puzzling me about the wreck and that is - is it a war grave as 9 were killed when it was hit; 4 crew and 5 Royal Navy . Also, the most concerning thing is, that there divers messing around with live munitions that are getting more unsafe as time goes on. The ship deck and hold are still covered with live rounds which could still go off and supply new members to the Grim Reaper ! Even a 100 year French WW1 bomb still caused injury to a 18 year old metal detectorists, who lost his index finger and 50 pieces of shrapnel in his body when he hit the 1915 French MLE impact detonator by accident. The hospital did manage to sew his finger back on and remove all of the shrapnel. Is it time to the leave ship wreck alone like the SS RICHARD MONTGOMERY and just let it rest in peace. Cheers. Paul Burns.
  5. Hi Many thanks for the kind words and advice, it's a good feeling to know that you are doing it right. Perhaps I'm bit of 'Old School' and want to see it right and having spent many years restoring steam loco's back to their original condition has stuck with me and want it to show on the Albion. But there are times when I have completed a job, I stand back , look at it and think 'No not happy with that' and do it again. As for the rear electrics , I going to take the easy route and use the workshop diagram. I did buy a 4 way junction box and is now happly fitted to the chassis but I won't wire in the trailer adapter as there is no need for it. As the lorry is 75 years old, wont be pulling any trailers . The axle flood light will be wired in when I can get hold of one and use the bracket that is fitted at the back of the towing hook, to fit one red and one white lights to throw more light on the rear end for any following motorist Simon, on your next visit I would like to see any photo's you can get of the BY3 's on the wreck for my own collection. And perhaps you could take a couple of air bags, box of spanners , unbolt a rear axle, fill the air bags with air from a couple of handy air cylinders you took down with you on the dive and float the axle to the surface. Might be a bit of a job fitting it into your luggage but just push it with your foot and tell Customs it's a very old wheel barrow ! I can then strip out the rear diff as trying to get one in this Country is very rare and reverse engineering to make one is very expensive. Cheers. Paul Burns
  6. Hi Andy. Many thanks for your kind words about the project and it has been a labour of love. My biggest problem has been working on it outside and trying to dodge the bad weather, rain, frost, snow, more rain ! Another problem has been with it being the only one, you are stuck to go and have a look at another BY5 to check on parts etc. I have had to work from the offical war time photo's of a BY5 and size it to what should be the correct size, then with a handy piece of cardboard make one - then try for size and adjust. Then cut out - a bit of trial and error As for lifting heavy parts around, I have a handy sack truck and having strong arms, thick back and being daft in the head helps ! But the dear wife keeps telling me - "You are 65 not 18, be careful" I'm sure that once you get taking a few parts off your Land Rover, you will find that restoration will be in your blood. Right, I have wanted to finish off the small annoying jobs that if I don't do them then they will never get done. So I'm going to wire up the rear light, fit the junction box and the two way switch. Now this where the problem starts. If you look at the start of page 3, there is a copy of the wiring diagram that is in the workshop manual. I was going to use this to sort out the light, on the rear BUT on checking the drivers manual there is a different diagram. The diagram from the workshop manual shows at the rear a tail lamp, junction box, feed off to the trailer adapter, carries on to a two way switch and the rear axle floodlamp. Okay so what's the problem? well on the drivers manual diagram, it shows a feed to a stop lamp switch, then to the junction box , with a feed off to the stop lamp, feed to the tail lamp, then to the two way switch for the axle floodlamp. So which one do I do, this would explain the lamp bracket under the tow hook with two red lights fitted and the pull out switch but not sure on how or where to fit the stop lamp switch or what type to use. Or shall I just fit as per the workshop manual Regards. Paul Burns.
  7. The rearlight bracket photo has appeared 3 times, I can say that there is only one bracket. PB
  8. Hi. Update photo's of the Albion The rear marker light fitted with new bracket . I measured off the works photo and with a piece of cardboard made up the bracket. I did fix it behind the rear off side mud guard but it was too far back so I moved it behind the number plate. Next is the new plate for transporting the oars as these were carried on the inside of the chassis. New passenger foot rest but needs tread bar fitting to it, but might just fit strips of flat steel strip instead. This next photo has jumped the que but shows the rear lights bracket and fits behind the towing hook. There was the remains of a pull out switch in the middle, but will have a ponder about fitting the originals back again as they are too far back to see them . Rear number plate but this has been leaft blank as the bolt heads have to have a touch of black paint on them. This will carry the 18YX66 numbers but only for display purpose, but will not be displayed when being shown in the 1944 livery. When registered for the road then the legal reg plates will be fitted. The front number plate showing the post war number and if any one writes in to tell me that one of the numbers isn't straight - it is - the number plate has a slight curve in it and puts the number skew. Then I removed the covers to give it a breath of fresh air. Paul Burns
  9. Hi. Many thanks for your thoughts, but I'm well aware of the difference. The only reason for putting both numbers on is that the 18 YX 66 are display plates and will be changed and the proper legal road number plates will be fitted in their place. The lorry will run as the 1944 - 1949 livery but by taking off the L number plate, will also be displayed as in the post war number registration. Cheers. Paul Burns.
  10. Hi. The weather down here in the South West has been the monsoon season - non stop rain. Every time I go out when it does stop, to take catch up photos - it rains. But I hope there will be a dry spell to take them this weekend. Right bit of a update. I did manage to change the top piece of the side locker but not able to paint yet. The top was a bit flimsy and if any one had walked on it , then it would possibly bend in the middle as I used 1.2 mm steel, this is now 2 mm . The order for the new cable for the rear marker light and junction box is now on the go and await it's delivery. I have ordered a 50 m reel of black cable as the power take off starts at the electrical gear at the front of the cab and the cable runs down the inside of the chassis rail all 22 foot and across the rear. So to save using a wonky tape measure that some times gives me the wrong size to cut, to play safe and get a full reel. The passenger side foot rest was also made up and fitted, but still needs the tread bar /pyramid nosing to be obtained and fitted. I did try a fab shop that I use to see if they had a small off cut , when asked and tried to describe it to him, his blank face never moved. I need to catch up on the time off and get frustrated when I cannot go out to work on it due to this weather. When I did try to work underneath the chassis in the rain , all the drips off the sheet covering it found their way down my neck ! Will try this weekend for photos. Paul Burns.
  11. Hi. Yes still around but I had some health problems last year - body bits were starting to fall off - joys of getting old. I had to put a hold on the restoration but back to 100% and getting stuck back in to it again. I did some serious pondering about some of the work I had carried out and wanted to rectify it as I wasn't happy about it. So I set about it and made up my mind not to wonder off doing some thing else and leaving a part finished job. The first job I wanted to do was to make up the number plate brackets, I had two original ones , these were used on the rear and cut , drilled and painted the plate for the numbers. The front was a bit more of a swine as there is a slopping stone guard and the brackets had to be fixed inside the plate at the bottom but enough metal showing to fix the number plate to them.. It is a bit low but you can read the numbers on it - 18 YX 66. Next was to work out from the Black and White works photo of the rear angled number plate for the lorry number as fitted on the right hand side on the body. L533042. Having a good supply of cardboard, made up a plate for trial and error and when correct cut out a piece of steel 2mm and got the angle bent to 90. The stencil is on the wish list for the number. Next, was fitting of tail light. Back to the photo and it showed that there was a plate fitted at the back of the rear off side mud guard. Back to the cardboard supply and cut out a piece and trial / error got to look right. I cut out a piece to shape and drilled a 28mm hole for fitting the rear lamp.. The lamp I brought off a vintage car site, it is of the rubber type and has 3 self tapping screws to hold it on. I need to buy some cable and a 2 way junction box to wire in the light . On this wiring diagram there is a two way switch for the axle flood light, which will have to be obtained.. I had a small angle bracket which had two small red lights in it, they were very rough and could only save the bodies. This piece had puzzled me for many a year as to where it fitted, I couldn't find any holes that would fit it. Lying on my back a bit further in under the lorry having a ponder, I found the holes and is now fitted but without the lights. I shall have to see if I can buy new connectors and fit them inside the original bodies. Right, inside the chassis at the rear there should be a plate fitted - 33" x 25" and this is to support the boat oars. The chassis body work will help also to support the oars. Plate is cut out but needs to be drilled and painted. The top of the side locker, I'm not happy with the plate as it's a bit on the flimsy side, so I've cut a new plate out and is the next job to be done. Side locker door, is again a bit flimsy, so I will strengthen with a piece of 2mm steel on the inside of the door. As soon as I can, will just put up some photo's Paul Burns.
  12. Hi. Many thanks for the help and I will give your idea a try to stop the leak. It's not that I don't to spend the money and time getting it repaired but I just want to use for a couple of years and have some fun with it. I want to find a workshop when the time is up and strip it down to the bear bones and rebuild it as factory fresh. To Match Fuzee - sorry I missed your message about the gauge , but will still keep looking for one. Cheers . Paul Burns.
  13. Hi. Thanks for your comments about the work so far. Pete. Thanks for your input about the rad, I have got some metal stick which is to stop leak's but it's just trying to get the paste around the leak. It's the middle tube and I wasn't going to remove the rad if I could,. I have had a look on web sites for rad leaks on HGV's and found some liquid fixer for £40 a can. But not sure what a modern HGV water capacity is as the Albion is 5 3/4 gallons. Cheers. Paul Burns.
  14. Hi.. Time for bit of a update on the Albion. Rear Axles: They have now fresh oil in them and a full repaint, now just to sort out the leather gaiters with fitting them back on. The Torque Rods were sized and had to be freed up and I have to fit new leather covers on them to protect the ball joint . Chassis: Having been working underneath, I found areas of rust on the body work and chassis rails which needed urgent attention , so this has had to move up the list of to do jobs. Also it has also given me the chance to clean off all the muck it has built up over the years it was left out in the farm yard. Another job that again moved up the list is the amount of holes in the bodywork and chassis that have not been drilled out, holes out of alignment, bolts not fitted, bolts fitted but no nuts on them, so all of this has been corrected. Electrics: With the monsoon season over, hopefully for a few days to allow me to have a look at them again. I did get a replacement switch box and decided to replace it. All the wires were marked with the letter on the switch box that they should fit. Wiring diagram double checked and the switch box refitted. The oil gauge had to be removed from the panel and when I have spun the engine over, there is no movement of the needle on the gauge. So on checking it found that it was no longer of any use so I need to get a Smiths 0-100lbs, type X.53580/17 - any one help with a working spare they don't need or where I can get a replacement. The old gauge was refitted just to act as a plug to stop the oil from coming out. So all wiring checked and a quick double check on the wiring again, the battery came out of the garage, fitted in the Drivers tool box , leads fitted, quick prayer to the small god of vehicle restoration and turned the side lights on - bingo yes they are on, main headlight on - bingo yes it is on. The first time I tried, this circuit wasn't working and running the meter over the ignition circuit again 100% working. The problem was that the switch box that had been full of water over the years had taken it's toll on the connections inside. What next - well the watering can came out, spare petrol and check the engine oil level and to see if I could fire it up. First thing was to fill the rad up and listen to the water filling up the the block and the rad and I started to wonder why my feet were getting wet! The rad had a leak in one of the coils right in the middle of the 3 rows of coils - silent scream - and it's about 6" up from the bottom. If you look at the last photo you can see it - look at the rivet and move to your left you can see a spiders strand and you can see the water coming out. So I'm looking for a cheap fix, any one recommend any rad leak fixing fluid to fix the leak and make it last until it gets a full strip down and get the rad fixed. Cheers. PB.
  15. Not tried that route at all - will give it a go, also will try to expand trying Fab / stair making companies for off cuts. If no luck will have to buy a 3 meter strip as I want to finish off this out standing job. P.B
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