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racer

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  1. racer

    Errol

    Hi Errol, I recently bought a 1913 Chalmers overhead inlet engine that had sat for 60 years and became stuck, luckily this engine and probably yours had cast iron pistons which is better in stuck terms than alloy, I poured in kerosene in all the bores and was able to apply a constant load on top of the piston with visible water ingress and rust, after a few days I was able to add further load as the piston had stated to move. Due to the overhead inlet it was fairly easy for me but if you can bolt a lever arm to the flywheel and add a load by maybe a jack or ram and then leave the engine for a few days you may find it has moved, the cast / cast sticking seems to be overcome better than the alloy rotting scenario. Good luck with your great find. Andy
  2. racer

    WW1 Thornycroft restoration

    Evenin Steve, The only place I have seen that anti slip strip is on the outer diameter of ERF wheel trims from the 1960's, it is where the driver put his foot when getting into the cab, if you know any classic truck enthusiast's they may have a wheel trim with centre damage that they will let go to a worthy cause. The truck is looking good, nearly there. Andy
  3. racer

    FWD arrives

    Hi bobs1918, It looks very like a speedo drive that would have been driven from the back of the gearbox or the propshaft, Stewart-Warner made something similar. Andy
  4. Just found this 1912 Lambert friction drive truck on the favourite auction site, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Other-Makes-Lambert-Truck-/222279131203?forcerrptr=true&hash=item33c0de6043:g:4esAAOSwgmJX1BuT&item=222279131203 I am not sure of any military usage but still very interesting. Andy
  5. racer

    Halley restoration

    Evenin Dan and everybody, I have been in this position on a couple of early engine rebuilds, as long as you don't have any pits in line with a rusted-in ring set for instance, a few pit's cause very few performance and reliability problems and as has already been mentioned these engines run very low compression's and a little more oil around won't hurt, if you have one particularly poor cylinder think about boring that further and getting a piston to the next size but weighing the same, are you able to get a cylinder wall thickness test done for piece of mind ? Keep up the good work. Andy
  6. racer

    Tracks to the Trenches 2016

    Afternoon everybody, We called in to the Tracks to the Trenches event yesterday and found a great selection of engines, rolling stock and many other WW1 items to see, we had a wonderful reception and were parked up next to a RR armoured car replica, This is a great event, you can get up close and see another side to WW1, it wasn't just shooting that was done ! Andy
  7. racer

    HAPPY 100TH BIRTHDAY To my Albion Chassis No. 361A

    Hi 8-10 and all, The photo of the engines at Norton in Hales is wonderful, amazing really, I live 4 miles away from the Hinds Head ! Thanks 11th for your interest, you can find a bit more on the Chalmers in it's recent history here, http://forums.aaca.org/topic/213843-1913-36-model-17-in-the-uk/ Andy
  8. racer

    HAPPY 100TH BIRTHDAY To my Albion Chassis No. 361A

    Hi Rick and all, Well done for the 100th celebrations, it is a great feeling to have a vehicle that has got to such an amazing milestone, I have also been lucky enough to have a vehicle with this milestone, my 1913 Chalmers car is now regularly sprinted and hillclimbed and is a lot of fun. nothing like the job you have had with the Albion, at the start line of the famous Shelsley Walsh hill at 101, I have a 9 year wait for the 100th birthday of my 1925 Napier Lion engine, More 100th's please. Andy
  9. racer

    1914 Dennis Lorry

    Hi Ben, Great work as usual, I hope you don't me throwing an idea into mix, because of the extensive corrosion on the casing, drilling and then bolting the new carrier to it may just break the weak alloy, how about making an "upper" carrier and then bolt the 2 new parts together around the casing's with maybe a cushioning material in between ? you are then just gripping the box with very little point loadings. Keep up the excellent workmanship, a very enjoyable read, thank you. Andy
  10. racer

    1914 Dennis Lorry

    Hi Ben, I have had to replace gears in my 1913 Chalmers car, google these guys, Sovereign Gears Ltd, they looked after me and the gearbox is now like new. Andy
  11. Hi Duncan, You have found a nice engine to work on, I rebuilt a 1914 car type Daimler Knight engine a couple of years ago, very similar to what you have, when you get into it, if you have any questions please get in touch. Andy
  12. Evening everybody, I have just seen these on ebay, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WW1-1920s-Rolls-Royce-Crossley-Armoured-car-wheels-Barn-find-/131486577110?hash=item1e9d35f1d6 any use to anybody or an I.D. ? Andy
  13. racer

    WW1 Thornycroft restoration

    Hi Steve, is this youtube clip any use ? Andy
  14. Is this of interest ? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Steam-Engine-Water-Cart-Locomotive-barn-Find-restoration-Project-chassis-farm-/121548905168?pt=UK_Collectables_Agricultural_RL&hash=item1c4ce11ad0 Andy
  15. Good Evening gents, As a regular reader of this section of the site I am always impressed with the engineering work and solution's to problem's that are found, now although not a military vehicle it is the combined engineering knowledge of this forum that I ask a question, I have removed the gearbox and clutch of a 1913 Chalmers 17 to rebuild the gearbox and have found the oil bath clutch's release bearing looking like it may have lost it's wear surface, what to you guy's think would have been riveted to the bearing ? or are the rivets there to allow oil to lubricate the faces when loaded against the steel release plate. Thanks for any idea's received. Andy
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