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wdbikemad

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wdbikemad last won the day on November 17 2017

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About wdbikemad

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    Berkshire UK
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    Far too many (according to my better half)
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    Police Officer in London

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  1. If you're restoring British motorcycles, and I've been doing such for over 40 years, taps and dies are as essential as spanners, hammer, etc, in the tool department........they are essential for running over or through parts that have been subject to rust, plating, painting, etc, to clean the threads to ensure smoothness in fit. I even do it to new-old-stock parts just to ensure a decent fit....... You don't need a massive stock of taps and dies......a basic set of 26 tpi cycle items are a good starting point, and you can add certain BSF, BSW, BSP and BA as time goes on.........many engine components use BSF or BSW, BSP for fuel and oil fittings, and BA for control levers, electrical, etc..........Autojumbles usually turn up loads of taps and dies cheaply, as does Ebay, etc......if buying new, Tracy Tools in Devon are excellent..... I was fortunate to acquire all my Dad's tools when he passed away a couple of years ago.....he was ex-RAF and an engineer. I acquired numerous taps, dies, etc, in all manner of widths, thread forms, etc, literally a cabinet full. I haven't sorted them all out yet but it's set me up for life there....
  2. Steve, the ML (and Flea) gear-knobs were stained or painted black and then lacquered..............you can use shoe-dye to blacken the knob and then apply a coat or two of gloss yacht varnish. The latter takes a while to dry but the results are worth the wait. One of my ML's plus the Flea have the original-finish gear knobs and this was the finish........
  3. Slick 50, you need a 15, or better, an 18........the latter was the largest standard one made....BD was grouped together in 3 widths per-height, eg: 1 - 3, 4 - 6, etc.......the widths being basically narrow, medium and wide.........see the attached chart for info....
  4. I was never into the Mason's........I didn't think the antlers, apron, funny handshake, one trouser leg rolled up and carrying a half-brick suited me......... Think I'd be more suited to becoming a member of "Sons of the Desert"......after all, I'm regularly in trouble with the wife....
  5. Both of my ML's, plus the Flea, have new-old-stock WD cables fitted so these fittings are correct.......!
  6. The Flea used standard-type ferrules.........but the ML on the Brake, clutch and decompressor levers uses a rather strange arrangement......... This is basically an additional ferrule into which the end of the cable outer and the cable ferrule fits.......this extra ferrule has a small "pointy bit" through which the cable passes and this ferrule fits into the small hole in the lever bracket.......it is basically half a spherical ball on very thin metal.......difficult to describe, the photo does a better job.....
  7. Steve, I made front and rear brake rods for one of my ML's.....quite an easy job...... The wheel hubs and brake plates on the ML were made by "The British Hub Co" of Birmingham........If you do an Ebay search under "British Hub" in motorcycle parts suitable brake operating arms often appear...... As for the sprocket, someone was having replicas made.....but anyway, it's another "British Hub" item........Villiers Services MAY be able to help here........?
  8. The photo shows the Flea in it's final production form (with the exception of the number plates) so this is either late-1942 or early-1943........it is known that the Enfield works retained several examples for testing and modification purposes, James with their ML doing similar......
  9. Steve, you are correct in saying they are rare.........I have used a couple of originals in the past but the best thing today is to make up a replica out of suitable black-rubber tubing glued together and slip it on over the HT lead........ It's a really good idea not to add any "obstruction" in the current of the HT lead as this can affect the quality of the spark delivered........best to use the hollowed-out resistor and just an immobiliser false/replica cover.....
  10. I'm proud to say that the Sean Walsh armoured 3SW is fitted with a cylinder head from me.........well, actually it was originally a door-stop for my workshop door that Sean spotted on a visit to my place....!
  11. I note your air cleaner is not quite the correct one Steve.....Terry or Drew at "Metal Magic" made some replica examples last year that come complete with the proper printed Villiers plate. They were copied from a new-old-stock original I had....They may still have some...01189 731631.....
  12. The post-war stand was part number ML64ASS whereas the wartime was ML15ASS............ The post-war springs were part number ML643B whereas the wartime were ML643........... The post-war springs were indeed probably slightly longer although to what extent I don't know. The key thing with the springs is to have them "springy" enough for the stand to automatically flip-up and then largely stay in place once retracted.....
  13. I was wondering when you'd spot that Lex........Well done !!!
  14. Looking nice Steve ! Don't forget to fit that small pair of plates either side of the bottom engine-to-frame bolt to attach the stand springs to !
  15. Decent 9D cylinder heads are getting hard to find......worth picking them up when you see them, even with broken fins..... Most post-war 9D heads have a screwed plug in the 14mm decompressor hole as this item wasn't fitted to civilian models. Of course, you can remove this but all the heads I've had in the past with the plug present required heat of volcanic proportions to budge ! As Ron noted, any decent engineering shop should be able to put in an 18mm metric insert.....
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