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wdbikemad

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wdbikemad last won the day on November 17 2017

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About wdbikemad

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    Lieutenant-Colonel

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  • Location
    Berkshire UK
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    Far too many (according to my better half)
  • Occupation
    Police Officer in London

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  1. In Your last photo Ron, it shows the pillion saddle often fitted to the Ariel W/NG and displaying one of those absolutely first-class covers that you had made. Mine looks a treat on the Ariel, and I must say that the chap who made these covers did a brilliant job......shame he can't supply standard saddle covers as his workmanship is excellent........
  2. "The first pattern 'Lucas MCT1 (fag end) had a rubber seal, latter patterns didn't.. Late war they introduced the MCT1A (A=aperture for number plate illumination) There was even a lens cap with a tiny pin hole red lens for extreme black out conditions - Ron" Correct Ron....the first pattern MCT1 had the rubber seal around the lense cap to assist waterproofing, but this was discontinued 1942-43 due to the shortage of rubber...... First (1940-41) pattern lense cap had the tiny "pin hole" aperture in line with the strict blackout regulations then in force, therefore acquiring the term "fag end" lamp...........this was soon replaced (1942-ish) by the larger lense cap as regulations eased but still without the lower aperture to illuminate the number plate, etc..........third pattern came in during 1945, same lense but now with the lower aperture.........the tail lamp body now incorporated the "MCT1A" designation for the complete assembly as supplied, earlier lamp bodies either bearing the "MCT1" designation or nothing at all............... Below is an image of my 1942 W/NG with the 1st pattern lense fitted onto a later body...........swapping/mis-matching of component parts often occured and invariably older stocks were used up first......
  3. Mark, I first saw one of these at Silverman's back in the late-1970's.....at the time you couldn't get DPM clothing via surplus so I believe that Silverman's actually produced these themselves using the old green hoods.........
  4. My sentiments exactly Ron ! But also wholeheartedly agree that it's better to save a bike than let it rot away, and also to do it exactly as you want !!! That's fine by me and everyone's right to do so........ But I always thought that this was a Military vehicles forum, and if you know that it's a civilian bike and choose to repaint it in olive drab then that doesn't make it a military vehicle so not really relevant here........Most people post here for providing or seeking information on military projects that they have done or are working on, and naturally therefore you will invite comment..........sorry, but it wasn't clear that you didn't seek any information or advice so my apologies if I got this wrong...... In a group such as this, there are many, many knowledgeable individuals here and the majority of Group members value that vast pool of information or they simply wouldn't be here.......to refer to knowledgeable comment as "flea police" and being "geeky" is not the kind of remark expected here........ As for me, I wrote the definitive reference book on WD motorcycles and have restored 3 flying flea's over the years.......Ron is equally knowledgeable.....if that makes me a "geek" then I can live with that...........and as for "police", no thanks, I'm retired now having done real policing for 30 years........Steve
  5. Painting it green makes it look "WD" but there is a vast difference between the genuine WD Flea and the civvy version......... Frame.....(different saddle mounts front and rear).........handlebars (different shape)...handlebar stem bolt (different design)....headlight and tail-light (different pattern).......toolbox (different design)......footrest assembly (different design).......headlamp brackets (different length)......engine crankcases (different design)......conrod assembly (narrower).....cylinder barrel (threaded exhaust port)...exhaust pipe and auxiliary silence (different design)......rear sprocket (one more tooth).....engine timing cover (different design)......kickstarter (different design)...carburetter (different type), etc, etc........ Far more complicated to accurately convert a civilian Flea into a WD version compared with a James ML !!!
  6. PM me.......I have a few large examples.......
  7. PM me and we'll discuss further........... Oddly, I'm also in Newbury....!!! Yes, I think that the slot for the woodruff key can be welded up but it's a fiddly job........ When I obtained my WD/RE it had been modified post-war by the fitting of a later Wipac ignition assembly, doubtless to keep it running.....fortunately however, the correct replacement parts came with it so I was able to remove the Wipac items using a BSA Bantam extractor to find the original crank undamaged.........the original Miller ignition system is very hit or miss and parts difficult to find, but I was fortunate enough to have plenty of spares here so that I could rebuild using selective assembly......... Here's a picture of her when acquired.......she had been kept by the WD until the early 1950's then sold off.....she remained in the Norfolk area in use with several owners until the early 1970's........she's since been fully restored.........frame 8083......
  8. Yes, a great help ! 7140 is indeed a WD frame.......this is a first contract bike (contract S.1945) dating from 1943 and would originally have had the narrow crankshaft assembly fitted..... Parts for these are nowadays unobtainable, but you can still source the later (wider) crankpin and conrod which, as a complete assembly, will fit into the WD crankcases and are invisible once installed.....the later assembly is actually marginally stronger so will last..... Where are you located....?
  9. What measurements are you looking for chap ? I may be able to assist......
  10. A warm welcome here Lee ! I've seen a lot of your impressive collection on the IACMC site...!
  11. Kingsley, welcome to the group ! First thing to note is that apart from a few prototypes, there weren't any WD Flea's in 1942.......volume production didn't commence until 1943.....prior to that the RE 125 (Royal Baby) was made for the civilian and export market in small numbers until early 1940......... It is essential to identify your bike as a genuine WD version....the frame number would be useful here and it can be found on the right-hand side of the head-stock stamped vertically.......this should be duplicated on the engine (top of the left-hand crankcase below the carburetter and behind the barrel)......there should also be another individual engine number at the very rearmost point of the top of the left-hand crankcase........ Regarding the frame, the front saddle mounting should be taller and "vertical" on a WD frame, not shorter and "curved" as per the civilian frame.......... A spare crank assembly needs to be sought as a whole item.......this is because the pre-war and WD versions of the Flea use a different (narrower) assembly than the post-war civilian model..........whilst complete crank assemblies are interchangeable, the individual crank components are not ! Steve
  12. Mark, is it just the fibre insulating plate you need ? I have a spare here plus the steel clamping plate......pm me
  13. Ian, if not loose on the shaft then it is possibly the bearing or clutch basket as you mentioned.........I'm sure I have a good used bearing here, plus a NOS clutch basket still in the wartime packing..........I'll have a rummage tomorrow in the workshop....... It's Steve Madden by the way.........
  14. Ian, never had this issue with my 16H.......I also run the clutch dry with modern bonded friction linings and 4 instead of 5.......... As mentioned, I would suspect the clutch bearing or possibly the basket......another possibility would be if it was slack on the shaft....... I'm on the north edge of Newbury so not a million miles away from Abingdon and willing to drop over and have a look......I have a lot of NOS 16H stuff plus decent used spares so substitution of parts may be an idea......? I'm also around most of the week as retired..........
  15. Ron, you're very welcome ! It's always crucial to have an original to take the measurements from as there can be no dispute....... I've done a round trip of 250 miles today to collect a front wheel for my second James ML (once fitted, it's finished).......long journey but worth it for a superb wheel complete with hub assembly, etc.............Mrs M kept me awake for the drive.....!
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