Muskrat

What is the current cost; and how do you make it payable if in the United States (money order I presume)?

Any photos or great information out there of Land Rovers with the - 3 FD WKSP and or 6 CS BN, 3 ARMD COY?

From what I know from research and only how I plan to approach the very same project, and to do it right the first time based on my own personal standard - It is important to clean bare metal thoroughly with a mineral spirit before using etch-primer (I have been told petrol works, but in my humble opinion, it still isn't 'pure' enough to risk using it); AFTER dry-wiping it down real well to remove any 'fine debris' left over from the process of 'burnishing any built up oxidation off of it', ie. fine steel wool. Then power-rinse it off real well. Then wash and rinse again. Then after all that, use the mineral spirit and then your primer of choice. It might sound trivial; but micro-fibers can get stuck in the small grooves within the soft metal itself - dry wiping with multiple clean soft "baby-diaper cloth' rags removes the bulk of it, power rinse blows out the finer particles, and off course washing will clear residuals. Another common mistake when getting prepared to paint; if one plans to roll it on (me), is to mix the tin by shaking it, which causes unnecessary air bubbles - it is best to store the tin upside down overnight to allow the heavier components to 'come to the top' per say, thus making it easier to mix once righted - then carefully stir it with a 'big tongue depressor' type stick - I will also use this technique to roll my Landy. Because the self-etching primer, (as well as regular primer), has a chemical reaction to the bare aluminum itself, it is also important to get the over-paint on it as soon as possible once fully cured - when you see a vehicle go down the road in the rain that is 'primered', that person wasted their time - for the oxidation process will begin under the primer no matter how thick they layered it on - any body work such as flexible body filler, spray filler, B*ndo; or the like can go over the S-E primer, just not suggested on bare aluminum (it can, it just won't hold real well and will eventually 'pop' off) - But; it is necessary to use a self-etching primer prior to any painting, or more priming, on bare aluminum - if you are painting over previously painted areas, a light sand/scratching will do. In closing - please research further and come up with your own notions on how to proceed further - this is just what I have gathered and how I plan to attack my ' 75 MoD 109' FFR - And please; further input or suggestions always helpful and or corrections if the above information is wrong and or can be improved upon. - J.D. Davis - Prescott, Arizona - hope this helps...

Hello - anyone recognize this unit ID # 21 / 3 It was in white characters above the headlamp on drivers side wing(RHD). I was told my Landy served in Bosnia (IFOR/SFOR,etc...) 21 Brigade 3 Close Support Squadron RLC? Am looking for answers also on the EMLRA - SERIES 3 109' RHD FFR - 49 GF 85. Thank you in advance.

Perfect! When swivel-pin torqued proper to achieve a 8-10 lbs preload without swivel seal and retainer, and then married - I achieved a 16 lb. preload when all was said and done. I imagine that all series rovers are a tad different in what they ask as far as the preload requirements (?). Thank you for the advice good sir. Muskrat - Prescott, Arizona.

Is that with or without the big swivel ball seal and retainer attached? Land Rover specs (not Haynes green-book) for the Series 111 said that a preload of 8-10 lbs prior to the fitting of the big seal - after attaching it; then checking the preload, it came out to roughly 15 lbs. give or take. Am I on the right path?

Hello HMVF - '75 Series 3 RHD 109' MOD FFR Truck 3/4 - What would the proper preload be for the wheels from lock to lock after proper torquing? It is a top adjusting swivel pin (lower arm for rod ends). I am now playing the shim game; I get mixed numbers --- the Haynes 11, 11A & 111 workshop manual says 14-16 lbs. preload, and another on-line source mentions 8-10 lbs. - Any suggestions from experience? Thank you. - Muskrat - Prescott, Arizona.

Hello HMVF - 75' RHD LR Series 3 109' FFR Truck. There are two different stud-bolts on lower swivel pin (the ones you really are not suppose to remove unless damaged - as they are lock-tited into place) - two are of the straight kind, the other two are the wide centers. I am refitting with new ones - is there a special order to these, or do you make just make sure that they are offset from one another; having one of each in-line/diagonally opposed to each other? Muskrat - Prescott, Arizona.

Thank you - when you say hoick, I suspect you have the best tool to use in mind - what tool would you use?

Hello HMVF - In process of replacing seals/gaskets for the front of my Rover - '75 Series 3 RHD 109' FFR 49GF85. On close inspection, the axle case oil seal appears to be in good condition; as I bought new ones, I am replacing them anyway. What is the best way to remove these (the old set) without destroying them? Thank you - Muskrat - Prescott, Arizona.

Hello HMVF - Has anyone ever tried the J.B. Weld method (plasteel) to repair pitted swivel-balls (swivel pin housing)? I read that it has been done with good results if done right. Read it in 'The Land Rover FAQ' - under swivel ball repair.

Great thread... As I am in Arizona; in the high country in the pines (true mile-high), I have had to adapt my machine to a different type of altitude - I had a mechanic re-jet the Weber carb from sea level - 32/36 DGV (on it when I bought it), by a man that knows 'Webers' but nothing about a Rover (not his fault). There is a sweet spot (seasonally and with alternating jets) where it runs pure (Webers are feisty!) - high grade unleaded gas with a lead additive (she's an old school engine); it seems that only I can ignorantly figure 'Corinna' out where I live; only because I am the person that drives her at length. With that being said; I imagine that altitude change has a lot to do with what leaks and what doesn't. It seems that when it started getting hotter out (75 degrees +, very low humidity, getting hotter), my seals weeped worse. The breather/tube is a clear shot into the frame; which I relieved/cleared out, and the axle relaxed and the other side of my project cried as well (swivel-ball seal), and showed it's colors when it seeped from the bottom side - for the time being - it will be due for a service next... As far as the one-shot grease/oil; I have heard mixed reviews on its usage (purely on experience and or implementation by those that have used it): will it work well in desert conditions one season and in the high-hills months later, yet cover the bases? Will it deter leakage (J.B Weld job over swivel-balls). I have no educated idea (looking for advice) - I read that a man complained when he went to clean/drain a housing out (I bet it was cold out) that was filled with it; and when he went to change the seals, he was pleasantly disappointed by the forthcoming messy project when the grease stuck against the housing like low-shelf honey (exaggeration?) ... Where I live it can more so in Winter occasionally freeze, and then it can heat up sporadically - what should I use? (the Green-book tells me in a sense, but how vague is it really?) Open to suggestions. As far as the bottom studs; with blind foresight, I purchased eight for good measure from Rovers North in Vermont - From what I learned previously; I will leave the rest of them in and not mess with a 'future ramshackle' (they look dapper where they sit)... So I guess I will have a few 'on hand' for a leaky dike... On the side - were the 'gaitors' a implemented MOD 'add-on' (turned civilian) per involvement when need arose for extra protection? And if so, how well did they actually work? -- With all this accumulated knowledge hanging out there in the ether - I will find answers... TY. - Muskrat - Prescott, Arizona.

Now: As far as the now stripped/seized stud (the other one will now smartly stay where it is), I will first try to heat it up, then attempt to carefully urge it out. If that doesn't work, I will have to try the weld method. I should have just left well enough alone - what a learning curve. I truly appreciate this forum and all the sound advice, comments and input from its' members. Thank you all. As I am the only person I know that owns a series 'Landy' around my town, let alone in the territory; good advice (and mechanics that know about one) are as hard to come by as a polydactyl-toed calico cat.

From what I read about the J.B. Weld method; after is is cleaned well past rust in pits - the article said to 'warm up' the entire thing in the oven a bit (while the wife is away). Apply the compound with spatula or the like as smooth as you can get it. Then warm it up again to help cure it quick (where I live; I can probably get away with letting it heat up in the sun - I have to keep my tools in the shade). Then, carefully file down any 'high' points - then wet sand with ultra-fine emory cloth it until it is smooth. The person that wrote the article said that he, and a few people he has known, have done it and it worked for them and held up years later. -- Article was found under 'The Land Rover FAQ'; If I recall 'swivel ball repair' or something to the like -- My RHD rover (I am third private owner - first owner had it only a month or so, worked at a dealer in Las Vegas, and sold it because wife and kids didn't fit in it well) is former military - 49GF85 91126241C FFR (made it all the way into the Bosnia conflict, and then was 'de-mobilized' with two other Series 3's that it was with from what I gather). There were still the brackets for the 'gaiter' kit still on it in front of the swivel-ball seal retainer - previous owners did not do this, otherwise they probably would have been removed. This tells me that the balls are probably original if I was to guess. Most of the pitting was only visible once I removed the entire piece to where I could examine it under the seal. So; if one is in need of help, so is the other in all probability. The one is not that bad, so I can should get away with this method - Buying two new, or used in good condition is not a good option for me right now. I will be attempting this here in the next day or so, while I await my new seals. What the finished 'job' looks like and how the 'fix' will perform will be two separate issues. If the article is right and it works; like the author said it does, I will be sure to find out be it good or bad - I hope for the best. Of course I will post results. Muskrat - Prescott, Arizona.

Well - I tried to gingerly remove one, and managed to de-thread it only. Now I am going to have to work it out (heat it up, vise-grip, bolt/stud remover, etc). I will leave the other one in place and go from there. I created the problem; and now I will have to deal with the repercussions as only a fool knows how to do. Muskrat - Prescott, Arizona.

Good advice Tony B., I will look into both - I guess a man would be better off with a set of tools that you know; sooner or later, will come in handy when you need them the most - like a good dog... Muskrat - Prescott, Arizona.

I will look into tool-set, or try to borrow one for the day. Still would like to know if there is a 'cheaper/savvy' solution though (in case of any type of field repair where a seized stud/bolt is unfashionably involved). I realize that having a 'kit' like you mentioned would be an asset to any garage - As for me, all repair when need arises; if I have to implement it, is what I can carry as I try to streamline - out of the toolbox in the back of the rover when I excursion. As far as the J.B. Weld, it's a two-part epoxy paste that 'hardens like steel' and can be used for high temperature situations as well -- I had a leaking heater/water control valve. As a temporary fix until it could be replaced, I 'cracked' the unit apart (pried the clamps away from their holds), dissected it (took out the warn seal component, and washer with a hole through the center of it), and used just the bottom half as a bypass (cleaned it up real well, then J.B. Weld'ed' the flat washer back to the top until it 'set', then covered the hole with a J.B. Weld'ed' penny). After I let it cure for 24 hours, I refitted it and went down the road - worked great as a 'fix'. I have found that having it in my toolbox is also a godsend. Looking forward to any other suggestions/comments. Thank you HMVF - Muskrat - Prescott, Arizona.

Hello HMVF - On my Series 3, 109' FFR (49GF85) RHD, while breaking down the axle assembly to replace the seals and give it an overall check ( trying to source oil leaking into brake drums. Swivel ball seal leaks - ball is pitted a bit), when I got to the point where I was removing the lower steering arm and pin assembly ( passenger side ) from the swivel pin/ball housing, two of the bolts ( double-threaded, no head ) stayed put (nuts came off ), and the other two came out ( nuts seized just enough to the bolt? ). I would like to remove the housing completely while I am already dismantling the axle down to the axle flange oil seal - I would like to clean it up ( remove old Waxold and grime ), but am afraid to go any further in regards to the bolts without asking for advice on such matters. Is there a special tool that will help me remove these bolts? Is there a trick to it? I would prefer not to have to bend threads forcing them out if I don't have to... Also - as there is light rust/pitting on the swivel ball ( cause of leaking into the drums?; has anyone ever heard of the J.B. Weld method of repairing them? I have read that it has been done with good results if done proper - I saw it on The Land Rover FAQ, and am curious to see if any members out there have given it a try before? Thank you in advance for any help, advice, suggestions, or input - Muskrat - Prescott, Arizona.

Hello: I was looking at Craigslist today, and noticed that someone had a 1950 Landy up for sale for $ 1,500 Dollars. Add said 'mostly complete'. 4 photos attached. It was on Prescott, Arizona area listing. Thought that I would throw that out there - never know; someone might be interested... Have a good day.

Noticed a small to medium (depending on the lever setting) trickle flowing out from the inclined slot where the arm that is attached to the cable is located. Obviously there is something amiss inside, probably a seal of some sort. Being as though I have not seen a schematic of one, I have not a clue. Is there a way to find out, or is the whole component shot - I have not, as of yet, seen any instruction of a way to dismantle it - It also looks to be crimped together fairly well, and probably for a reason, like it does not want to be. So, does this part have to ability to be broken down for an 'outback repair' to keep it going down the road until a proper one can be fitted? And if so, any suggestions. As this is my first Landy (and one and only means of conveyance) I have to learn as I go. She's at that age (not miles) where certain parts need to be replaced - seals mostly I have found. As the part is pretty pricey here in the States, if I do have to replace the entire thing, is there an aftermarket one that won't take food out of my Heeler's mouth? Thank you in advance for all responses - J.D. Davis Prescott, Arizona.

Hello: Have run into many interesting random articles out on the net from HMVF - But, could not ask questions nor look at attached photos unless I joined in - so I did. But, I signed up a while back, but failed to formally introduce myself - my apologies. I have lived in Northern Arizona all my life and grew up outdoors and am a, under the radar cowboy type artist (by word-of-mouth) by trade - I spend a lot of times in the hills Hunting, fly-fishing, shooting, camping and the like. I enjoy World, Military, U.S, Old West, and Arizona history. I have been on the search for a military vehicle for a while to suit my outdoor Jones's for a long time till I finally got hold of one, and one that I feel was exactly what I wanted even when I didn't know I wanted it - 'Corinna' '75 Series 3 RHD 109', Truck, FFR - 49 GF 85 91126241C - It is believed to have made it all the way past its service life and made it into Bosnia ( I got it with 17,655 original miles ). - I bought it of a man from California and had it flat-bedded out here. He had her chemically stripped of all paint down to bare metal - sadly, when it was done, all identification marks, gone! They should have taken down at least a couple of notes when doing so for future reference; but is was obviously a rush job for them by the signs of circular scruff marks on the back side windows (windowed hardtop). The only paint that was left on it, was topside of both wings. When I removed the eight or so two tone disruptive black/NATO green paint in nice and neat layers, I found the unit sign 21/3 above one drivers side headlight, and what was left of the Union Jack on the other. I am looking for information on the vehicle and or unit. I will be painting her back soon and hope to get it back to a 'period' of her former life - Clive's articles have been educational to say the least - Cheers! J.D. Davis - Soon to go out for a beer on Whiskey Row ( look it up )

Has anyone tried to mix 1 part (qt.) Hunter Green gloss Rust-oleum and 1 part Rusty Metal Red primer Rust-oleum (qt.) to get an Olive Drab? I have seen that it has been done to an alright effect - but to what extent I am thinking. It would probably be a more of a U.S. O.D. I would imagine -

As I have delved deeper into this odyssey for many moons, I found a decent list on the computer of British forces that were deployed and served in Bosnia as part of the UN, EU, and NATO, along with some personal accounts of their missions per unit. The list covers Joint Units, Army, Navy, RAF, and the Royal Marines - "Bosnia - A Frustrating Mission" - British units deployed to Bosnia -. This list covers the Royal Signals - 21 Signals Regt. (Air Support), 21 Signal personnel (220 Sqn. and 244(?) Sqn.) in support of 1310 flight RAF, and 845 Naval Air Sqn.. I will look into this further. Also found - And could this be a possibility - 21 Brigade Support Sqn. 3, Close Support (CS) Regt. Royal Logistic Corp (RLC), which roots go back to the Royal Army Ordinance Corp*, along with the Royal Corp of Transport, Royal Pioneer Corp, Army Catering, and the Royal Engineers Postal Courier Service, until all were unified into the RLC in 1993. * Dates:1988-1993 - Royal Army Ordinance Corp - BAOR (British Army of the Rhine) / UKMF Field Force Unit (United Kingdom Mobile Force) Circa 1988 - HQ 2 Ord. Bn located in Catterick (UKMF) part of the 2nd Inf. Div. 21 Ord. Co. was part of the 2nd Ord. Bn., which the first (21 Ord. Co.) became part of the 21 Brigade Support Sqn. and 12 Artillery Support Sq. (possible part of 100 Field Reg. Royal Artillery?) RLC when all units were reorganized together as one - If this might all seem confusing at first, its because it is, somehow these are all married, and please correct me if I am wrong on any of this... If this be the case, could the 21/3 come out of all this Clive as part of the 21 (UK) Brigade Support Squadron (21BSS) RLC and the (3) refers to the 3 Close Support Regt. RLC? Are there any 'Loggies' out there that would know? It seems it would also make sense to have an FFR in a close support role for the artillery to call in re-supply, coordinates, (air support?), and even your friend on the next ridge over for a hot drink... How these numbers come about I have not a clue - Is there a magical list out there? Or as David Ives smartly suggests, contact the RLC directly and pay for the historical records - I found a person who can do it all for 62.50 British (is this a reasonable price? Living in the States if have no idea...) - I would love to have a detailed statement and the official card on the military life of my Rover (I want to paint her back to a time of her former self, but two-tone disruptive patterns and accurate markings bounce around in my senapse of accuracies, and at times, keeps me from having a good nights sleep (is this a normal HMV owner problem?)) At least in doing what I am doing by throwing this information out there and asking for advice and help, I am learning more than just why the Hardtop still slowly leaks in the front after I have tried everything except a full removal, a re-rivet and reseal... I have learned that after all, it is a Land Rover! Thanking you all in advance - Muskrat - Prescott, Arizona

Thank you for the response: The white elements were forward facing on drivers side (RHD), 1" tall and centered fairly well on downward curve of the wing above the headlight. The sticker was only big enough to hold the 21/3 (sticker was about 4 inches long). Could there have been another separate sticker in front of that, that designated it further, or did they make those stick-ons with said information as a single unit as you responded, ie: Sow 21/3, Lon 21/3? All other identifying marks, along with the entire body except wings, were sadly chemically stripped to bare metal and lost - As a footnote, it would of been nice had the previous owner had the where-with-all to at least document what was found during the 'undressing' of the years of paint for future reference. With that being said, when I purchased it off Ebay, the description stated that it was in Britain ( used up about 7,000 miles ), then shipped and stored (lightly used?) in Bosnia and sat unused for years (he stated about twenty in a paddock with a few others - could that be?). It was then brought to the United States. When I bought her, she only had 17,655 original miles (odometer completely accurate). - How many '75 Series 111 MOD, 109' FFRs were actually shipped over there (if the previous information is true) for any type of NATO operation when the Defenders were already in service. If this is the case, mine would be somewhat unique, with others somewhere out there, in that they lasted that long into service. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Chassis No. 91126241C - Vehicle No. 49GF85 - Cont. No WV. 11702 - Code. No. 1720.0778 Lastly, I have found Clive's articles highly informative ( Painting and marking of Post-War British vehicles ) which I stumbled on, on my search for information and which led me to sign up with HMVF to deepen my knowledge. I do realize that if I pay and go through the right people; I can trace some deployment history of vehicle, but I am starting here to pool as much as I can about the previous said British unit markings before I go that route hoping someone out there will recognize it and make my search easier - I have written many letters in doing so.

Hello: New to HMVF - New to my Landy - 91126241C 49GF85 ( 1 year + ) Question : Vehicle was stripped of all paint to bare metal except for the wings before I bought her. When stripping the rest ( so I can paint back again to a time of her former self ), I found Vehicle Marking 21/3 on it. Previous owner said it was in Bosnia stored in a paddock (or lightly used?), along with two others basically unused until Demobilized and down the line brought to the US - I would like to take his word for it as fact. Does anyone out there recognize this unit and its history? Was anybody attached said unit? And if I am lucky, does anybody recall this particular vehicle as early Series 111's were probably not commonplace during SFOR,IFOR, etc... Thank you.