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Muskrat

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About Muskrat

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  • Location
    Prescott, Arizona. U.S.A.
  • Interests
    Flyfishing
  • Occupation
    Cowboy artist - muralist
  1. What is the current cost; and how do you make it payable if in the United States (money order I presume)?
  2. Any photos or great information out there of Land Rovers with the - 3 FD WKSP and or 6 CS BN, 3 ARMD COY?
  3. From what I know from research and only how I plan to approach the very same project, and to do it right the first time based on my own personal standard - It is important to clean bare metal thoroughly with a mineral spirit before using etch-primer (I have been told petrol works, but in my humble opinion, it still isn't 'pure' enough to risk using it); AFTER dry-wiping it down real well to remove any 'fine debris' left over from the process of 'burnishing any built up oxidation off of it', ie. fine steel wool. Then power-rinse it off real well. Then wash and rinse again. Then after all that, use the mineral spirit and then your primer of choice. It might sound trivial; but micro-fibers can get stuck in the small grooves within the soft metal itself - dry wiping with multiple clean soft "baby-diaper cloth' rags removes the bulk of it, power rinse blows out the finer particles, and off course washing will clear residuals. Another common mistake when getting prepared to paint; if one plans to roll it on (me), is to mix the tin by shaking it, which causes unnecessary air bubbles - it is best to store the tin upside down overnight to allow the heavier components to 'come to the top' per say, thus making it easier to mix once righted - then carefully stir it with a 'big tongue depressor' type stick - I will also use this technique to roll my Landy. Because the self-etching primer, (as well as regular primer), has a chemical reaction to the bare aluminum itself, it is also important to get the over-paint on it as soon as possible once fully cured - when you see a vehicle go down the road in the rain that is 'primered', that person wasted their time - for the oxidation process will begin under the primer no matter how thick they layered it on - any body work such as flexible body filler, spray filler, B*ndo; or the like can go over the S-E primer, just not suggested on bare aluminum (it can, it just won't hold real well and will eventually 'pop' off) - But; it is necessary to use a self-etching primer prior to any painting, or more priming, on bare aluminum - if you are painting over previously painted areas, a light sand/scratching will do. In closing - please research further and come up with your own notions on how to proceed further - this is just what I have gathered and how I plan to attack my ' 75 MoD 109' FFR - And please; further input or suggestions always helpful and or corrections if the above information is wrong and or can be improved upon. - J.D. Davis - Prescott, Arizona - hope this helps...
  4. Hello - anyone recognize this unit ID # 21 / 3 It was in white characters above the headlamp on drivers side wing(RHD). I was told my Landy served in Bosnia (IFOR/SFOR,etc...) 21 Brigade 3 Close Support Squadron RLC? Am looking for answers also on the EMLRA - SERIES 3 109' RHD FFR - 49 GF 85. Thank you in advance.
  5. Perfect! When swivel-pin torqued proper to achieve a 8-10 lbs preload without swivel seal and retainer, and then married - I achieved a 16 lb. preload when all was said and done. I imagine that all series rovers are a tad different in what they ask as far as the preload requirements (?). Thank you for the advice good sir. Muskrat - Prescott, Arizona.
  6. Is that with or without the big swivel ball seal and retainer attached? Land Rover specs (not Haynes green-book) for the Series 111 said that a preload of 8-10 lbs prior to the fitting of the big seal - after attaching it; then checking the preload, it came out to roughly 15 lbs. give or take. Am I on the right path?
  7. Hello HMVF - '75 Series 3 RHD 109' MOD FFR Truck 3/4 - What would the proper preload be for the wheels from lock to lock after proper torquing? It is a top adjusting swivel pin (lower arm for rod ends). I am now playing the shim game; I get mixed numbers --- the Haynes 11, 11A & 111 workshop manual says 14-16 lbs. preload, and another on-line source mentions 8-10 lbs. - Any suggestions from experience? Thank you. - Muskrat - Prescott, Arizona.
  8. Hello HMVF - 75' RHD LR Series 3 109' FFR Truck. There are two different stud-bolts on lower swivel pin (the ones you really are not suppose to remove unless damaged - as they are lock-tited into place) - two are of the straight kind, the other two are the wide centers. I am refitting with new ones - is there a special order to these, or do you make just make sure that they are offset from one another; having one of each in-line/diagonally opposed to each other? Muskrat - Prescott, Arizona.
  9. Thank you - when you say hoick, I suspect you have the best tool to use in mind - what tool would you use?
  10. Hello HMVF - In process of replacing seals/gaskets for the front of my Rover - '75 Series 3 RHD 109' FFR 49GF85. On close inspection, the axle case oil seal appears to be in good condition; as I bought new ones, I am replacing them anyway. What is the best way to remove these (the old set) without destroying them? Thank you - Muskrat - Prescott, Arizona.
  11. Hello HMVF - Has anyone ever tried the J.B. Weld method (plasteel) to repair pitted swivel-balls (swivel pin housing)? I read that it has been done with good results if done right. Read it in 'The Land Rover FAQ' - under swivel ball repair.
  12. Great thread... As I am in Arizona; in the high country in the pines (true mile-high), I have had to adapt my machine to a different type of altitude - I had a mechanic re-jet the Weber carb from sea level - 32/36 DGV (on it when I bought it), by a man that knows 'Webers' but nothing about a Rover (not his fault). There is a sweet spot (seasonally and with alternating jets) where it runs pure (Webers are feisty!) - high grade unleaded gas with a lead additive (she's an old school engine); it seems that only I can ignorantly figure 'Corinna' out where I live; only because I am the person that drives her at length. With that being said; I imagine that altitude change has a lot to do with what leaks and what doesn't. It seems that when it started getting hotter out (75 degrees +, very low humidity, getting hotter), my seals weeped worse. The breather/tube is a clear shot into the frame; which I relieved/cleared out, and the axle relaxed and the other side of my project cried as well (swivel-ball seal), and showed it's colors when it seeped from the bottom side - for the time being - it will be due for a service next... As far as the one-shot grease/oil; I have heard mixed reviews on its usage (purely on experience and or implementation by those that have used it): will it work well in desert conditions one season and in the high-hills months later, yet cover the bases? Will it deter leakage (J.B Weld job over swivel-balls). I have no educated idea (looking for advice) - I read that a man complained when he went to clean/drain a housing out (I bet it was cold out) that was filled with it; and when he went to change the seals, he was pleasantly disappointed by the forthcoming messy project when the grease stuck against the housing like low-shelf honey (exaggeration?) ... Where I live it can more so in Winter occasionally freeze, and then it can heat up sporadically - what should I use? (the Green-book tells me in a sense, but how vague is it really?) Open to suggestions. As far as the bottom studs; with blind foresight, I purchased eight for good measure from Rovers North in Vermont - From what I learned previously; I will leave the rest of them in and not mess with a 'future ramshackle' (they look dapper where they sit)... So I guess I will have a few 'on hand' for a leaky dike... On the side - were the 'gaitors' a implemented MOD 'add-on' (turned civilian) per involvement when need arose for extra protection? And if so, how well did they actually work? -- With all this accumulated knowledge hanging out there in the ether - I will find answers... TY. - Muskrat - Prescott, Arizona.
  13. Now: As far as the now stripped/seized stud (the other one will now smartly stay where it is), I will first try to heat it up, then attempt to carefully urge it out. If that doesn't work, I will have to try the weld method. I should have just left well enough alone - what a learning curve. I truly appreciate this forum and all the sound advice, comments and input from its' members. Thank you all. As I am the only person I know that owns a series 'Landy' around my town, let alone in the territory; good advice (and mechanics that know about one) are as hard to come by as a polydactyl-toed calico cat.
  14. From what I read about the J.B. Weld method; after is is cleaned well past rust in pits - the article said to 'warm up' the entire thing in the oven a bit (while the wife is away). Apply the compound with spatula or the like as smooth as you can get it. Then warm it up again to help cure it quick (where I live; I can probably get away with letting it heat up in the sun - I have to keep my tools in the shade). Then, carefully file down any 'high' points - then wet sand with ultra-fine emory cloth it until it is smooth. The person that wrote the article said that he, and a few people he has known, have done it and it worked for them and held up years later. -- Article was found under 'The Land Rover FAQ'; If I recall 'swivel ball repair' or something to the like -- My RHD rover (I am third private owner - first owner had it only a month or so, worked at a dealer in Las Vegas, and sold it because wife and kids didn't fit in it well) is former military - 49GF85 91126241C FFR (made it all the way into the Bosnia conflict, and then was 'de-mobilized' with two other Series 3's that it was with from what I gather). There were still the brackets for the 'gaiter' kit still on it in front of the swivel-ball seal retainer - previous owners did not do this, otherwise they probably would have been removed. This tells me that the balls are probably original if I was to guess. Most of the pitting was only visible once I removed the entire piece to where I could examine it under the seal. So; if one is in need of help, so is the other in all probability. The one is not that bad, so I can should get away with this method - Buying two new, or used in good condition is not a good option for me right now. I will be attempting this here in the next day or so, while I await my new seals. What the finished 'job' looks like and how the 'fix' will perform will be two separate issues. If the article is right and it works; like the author said it does, I will be sure to find out be it good or bad - I hope for the best. Of course I will post results. Muskrat - Prescott, Arizona.
  15. Well - I tried to gingerly remove one, and managed to de-thread it only. Now I am going to have to work it out (heat it up, vise-grip, bolt/stud remover, etc). I will leave the other one in place and go from there. I created the problem; and now I will have to deal with the repercussions as only a fool knows how to do. Muskrat - Prescott, Arizona.
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